First custom loop, need help for planning and part check.

[PEagle]

Hi everyone, 

Following my gaming and occasional mining adventures, temps have me worried and I'd like to take the step and watercool my build. 

 

To keep it simple and ensure compatibility between parts, I've decided to go full EK and use soft tubing.

 

Here's the build :

3700X

Strix 570 E Gaming

3080 Founder's edition

4 sticks of 8Gb Trident Z

4 HDD

2 NVME

1 SSD

1 BD Writer

Cooler master V850 PSU

Corsair 750D case

 

Here's the part list from EK :

 

And here's how I plan to set it up : 

 

Sorry for the non cable management by the way, I'll plan it better when placing the loop.

 

So here are my (noob's) questions:

1 - For the fans, I was thinking of going with Noctuas NF-A12x25 PWM but some reviews placed the NF-F12 industrialPPC-3000 PWM as being much better, any recommendations here on which to take, or even if I should go to another brand?

2 - Does this loop look fine and do-able or did I miss something that would prevent it from being made ?

3 - Do you see anything wrong or missing with my part list (except for the fans) ?

4 - Is that pump using the D5 highly praised by Linus (and Jayz iirc) ?

5 - I'll soon need to change my case fans, once again, any recommendation on that ?

 

If you have any other tips or remarks, I'll gladly hear them.

 

Thanks

[Mick Naughty]

Id get a fan based on the max rpm youd ever use them. 2k variant would be better if you arent wanting to go over 1k unless noise isnt an issue. Or just he black chromax versions would be fine. 
Can get the same for case fans, youre just wonna balance intake to exhaust and keep it positive as much as you can.

Everything seems fine assuming you have a way to mount the pump. 

But I wouldnt use that rad for more than one device. Id get a thicker version if youre gonna stay with a single rad. 
The pump is fine.

[bowrilla]

Those Industrial PPC 3000rpm fans are great - if you wear hearing protection. They are very loud for a regular pc fan. You'll probably be running your radiator fans at something around the 600-1000rpm range to stay quiet. 

 

With the position of your pump/res, filling it up will be a little bit more tricky, since whenever you switch off your pump (so it won't run dry), the water you've pushed upwards into the rad will steadily come down again. A multiport radiator could be a solution. This way you could fill at the top of your loop directly into your radiator once the space in your res get's lower. Makes bleeding also a lot easier. You can also add a pressure membrane end plug from Aquacomputer to have a way to get rid of excess pressure that may build up once you add heat to the coolant.

 

It also looks like you're missing a way of draining your loop. You will very much regret this the first time you'll service your loop.

 

I'd say one 360mm radiator is not very much space for 2 components running rather hot. It will work but temps won't be super low and fluid temp will be one the higher side (I'd expect high 30s to low 40s). That's not necessarily a bad thing but something you should keep in mind. I have to disagree with the recommendation of thicker rads. Thicker rads usually need more static pressure and airflow to actually make use of the incresed surface. That means either push-pull or higher rpm increasing noise. Of course, the thickness itself isn't the only relevant spec here, fin density is also very important.

 

I did out of curiosity a comparison based test data from a techpowerup review of the XSPC TX-360. See graph below. The lower the ΔT the higher the heat transfer. It clearly shows:

1. The difference in ΔT is smaller than you'd think (especially considering the TX360 is about as slim of a radiator as it gets
2. Thicker radiators are only playing out their thickness at higher RPM
3. There's a sweet spot in terms of RPM beyond that higher RPM gives you less and less benefits (that being said, since a higher ΔT is beneficial in terms of heat transfer and I'm not sure whether that is a linear or exponential relationship, the increasingly lower ΔT may have an effect as well)

 

P.S.: You don't need the ATX Bridge plug. A piece of wire is enough along with the pinout of the ATX 24-pin plug

P.P.S.: D5s and DDCs are mostly the same when bought from reputable brands/manufacturers.

P.P.P.S.: If you want to save money you can go for the Classic fittings - significantly cheaper and get the job done just as well

P.P.PP.S.: What do you need from your case? No point recommending a slim case if you need a full tower with as much space as possible and vice versa.

[PEagle]

First of all, thanks to the two of you.

I had posted the question on reddit as well and everybody is agreeing on the fact that this rad won't be enough for this build, however my current case will not be very good at fitting other rads without compromising a lot.

Following suggestion, I'm headead to an enthoo pro 2 with a PE480 and an external adapter for the optical drive. I've also been suggested to take ZMT tubing, I'll make sure to take a dimension that's compatible with dura clear as well so I can switch if I change my mind in the future.
I'll need to think how to order my loop and how to put the drain plug but I'll make sure to put one.

 

For your PS's questions/remarks, I'll remove the plug from the list, I just forgot to that time. For fittings, I'll see how to do and may go with some 90° to help counter potential kinks.

The idea of not switching case was for several reasons :

 - Money saving

 - Keeping the optical drive

 - several HDD/SSD that I want to keep in there

 

I think I'll remake a subject once I decide on everything and for another sanity check.

[bowrilla]

2 hours ago, PEagle said:

First of all, thanks to the two of you.

I had posted the question on reddit as well and everybody is agreeing on the fact that this rad won't be enough for this build, however my current case will not be very good at fitting other rads without compromising a lot.

Well, it will work but it either won't be very cool or very quiet. 1x480 or 2x360 or 2x280 (that's like ~90% of 2x360 in active cooling area) would obviously be better. 

 

2 hours ago, PEagle said:

I've also been suggested to take ZMT tubing, I'll make sure to take a dimension that's compatible with dura clear as well so I can switch if I change my mind in the future.

With ZMT you won't have issues of discolouration but it is probably harder to route since it's usually more rigid.

 

2 hours ago, PEagle said:

The idea of not switching case was for several reasons :

 - Money saving

 - Keeping the optical drive

 - several HDD/SSD that I want to keep in there

The Meshify 2 might be an option: well ventilated, lots of 3.5" mounts and lots of space for radiators, not entirely sure though if all the mounts are compatible when placing radiators. The 7000D might also be of interest (6x3.5" on the back) but no optical drive but place for 2x360 or even 2x420, you'd have to again decide between radiator space and some hdd mounts I assume.

[PEagle]

7 hours ago, bowrilla said:

With ZMT you won't have issues of discolouration but it is probably harder to route since it's usually more rigid.

The user who mentionned it also mentionned plasticizer. Is it really an issue or is it blown out of proportion ? Tubing would be 10/16, I understand why you mention it could be harder to bend.

 

7 hours ago, bowrilla said:

The Meshify 2 might be an option: well ventilated, lots of 3.5" mounts and lots of space for radiators, not entirely sure though if all the mounts are compatible when placing radiators. The 7000D might also be of interest (6x3.5" on the back) but no optical drive but place for 2x360 or even 2x420, you'd have to again decide between radiator space and some hdd mounts I assume.

The advantage of the Enthoo pro 2 is its price and it's about the size of my current case (Corsair 750D) so I was thinking of going with that one. I'd be able to fit a 480 in there and go on from there if I need to add another rad...

I'm still trying to figure all of this out as it's much more expensive than previously thought

 

[HM-2]

On 9/28/2021 at 7:27 PM, PEagle said:

The user who mentionned it also mentionned plasticizer. Is it really an issue or is it blown out of proportion ? Tubing would be 10/16, I understand why you mention it could be harder to bend.

The hardest thing about ZMT is getting it on the fitting barbs. It does not stretch much at all. And yes, it's less flexible than most of the transparent tubing- budget for 90 and 45 degree fittings if you want to do sharp turns and clean radii between parts.

 

Plasticiser leeching is an issue with most clear tubing yes. How big an issue depends on a myriad of factors including brand if tubing, coolant type, frequency of loop draining/filling and even things like fluid temp.

 

ZMT is largely fit and forget plus personally I think it's the best looking soft tube. Some people (Mick maybe?) have reported powdery residue with it getting into their system but I've not ever had that. 

[PEagle]

I have changed a lot of things with the build options and am now on a different part list. Following other people recommendation, I'll try to go with clear mayhems tube in 10/16 and that way I can switch to ZMT if needed or wanted. 

 

Just to show you how I plan the new one : 

 

and : 

 

thanks for your help  I'll make sure to post pictures of the complete build when I'm done.

[bowrilla]

I'd go for a multiport radiator. The Alphacool NexXxoS (yes, that's how they write it ...) XT45 has a total of 7 G1/4" ports (6 on one end and a 7th on the opposite end). There's also the X-Flow version of it with a total of 6 G1/4" ports. That would make filling and bleeding a lot easier.

 

Any reason you'd go with a 420 over a 480? I mean, yes, the 420 will have a bit more surface but the 480 probably fills the front better (probably).

 

That being said, I think I'd mount the rad on the side. It's a lot better ventilated than the front. A 480 X-Flow radiator would be pretty nice there. Obviously, you'd lose 4x 2.5" mounts.

 

The EK reservoir is made from acrylic. That's okay but I'd probably go for one with borosilicate glass instead of the acrylic tube. Watercool and Aquacomputer have really nice pump-res combos with borosilicate tubes. I'd probably go for one that's at least half the height, better 3/4 if not even full radiator height. 

 

If you want, you can get a pass through fitting and drill a hole for it in the bottom attaching the ballvalve to it.

 

With a 480mm radiator (4x120mm fan) plus front and top fully fitted with 120mm fans that's a total of 11x120mm fans or with the 480mm radiator and everything else with 140mm fans that's 4x120mm and 6x140mm. I'd probably ignore the back fan mount, the bottom could be nice though.

 

P.S.: Apparently, there's a distroplate for the back of that case.

P.P.S.: On water, vetical GPU mounts look really nice.

[PEagle]

6 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

Any reason you'd go with a 420 over a 480? I mean, yes, the 420 will have a bit more surface but the 480 probably fills the front better (probably).

Feels more efficient, more surface with less fans...

7 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

That being said, I think I'd mount the rad on the side. It's a lot better ventilated than the front. A 480 X-Flow radiator would be pretty nice there. Obviously, you'd lose 4x 2.5" mounts.

I need 1 SSD + 4 HDD but I think it would fit with rad on the side. If I'm not mistaken 420 and 480 fits there and would go with the same fittings and routing.

9 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

The EK reservoir is made from acrylic. That's okay but I'd probably go for one with borosilicate glass instead of the acrylic tube. Watercool and Aquacomputer have really nice pump-res combos with borosilicate tubes. I'd probably go for one that's at least half the height, better 3/4 if not even full radiator height. 

I'll take a look but I quite like the look of the EK pump res combo. As for the height, 300 feels like it's going to look nice and easy to fill.

 

For fans, I'm going with 4 140 (3 front and 1 back) for the moment but non RGB, will RGB in the future when finances get better.

 

I'm taking all the advices I can so fire away and thanks for all info provided so far.

[PEagle]

21 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

If you want, you can get a pass through fitting and drill a hole for it in the bottom attaching the ballvalve to it.

But how would you use it? put a tube in there to help direct the waterflow ? 

[bowrilla]

30 minutes ago, PEagle said:

I need 1 SSD + 4 HDD but I think it would fit with rad on the side. If I'm not mistaken 420 and 480 fits there and would go with the same fittings and routing.

Side only supports 120mm fans and rads. So 480mm it is.

30 minutes ago, PEagle said:

Feels more efficient, more surface with less fans...

With 420mm being 100% of surface, the 480mm would be ~98%. It's negligible cooling-wise. Usually the 120mm fans have a bit better static pressure than their 140mm counterparts, but those again move more air. 4 vs 3 sources of sound, well ... We could go into the nitty gritty here but at the end of the day, there won't be much difference and imho the 480mm would look better because it goes all the way.

 

Main advantage: much better ventilation and therefore more airflow and better cooling performance. Probably well enough to make up for the 2% less surface multiple times.

 

I'd go with an X-Flow multiport rad. So in from the CPU block at the top and out to the pump-res-combo at the bottom. With it being multiport, you can bleed and fill at the top of the rad once the reservoir is mostly full. Would also be a decent place to put a pressure membrane plug.

 

30 minutes ago, PEagle said:

I'll take a look but I quite like the look of the EK pump res combo. As for the height, 300 feels like it's going to look nice and easy to fill.

The Aquacomputer pump-res-combos look very similar, the Watercool ones are different but look really nice imho.

 

30 minutes ago, PEagle said:

For fans, I'm going with 4 140 (3 front and 1 back) for the moment but non RGB, will RGB in the future when finances get better.

So Phanteks Halos then. They are interesting addons.

 

23 minutes ago, PEagle said:

But how would you use it? put a tube in there to help direct the waterflow ? 

You'd still go this route, you'd just mount the ballvalve to the bottom of the case (where you drilled through) and connect it with a bit of tube to the reservoir. On the other side of the pass through there's another G1/4" threaded port where youi'd normaly have a plug. To drain it: unscrew the plug, screw in a fitting with a bit of tube, open the valve and then open one point in the loop so that air can get in (with a multiport radiator, that would be a good option, otherwise open the top of the reservoir and hope water isn't slushing back from the radiator into it.

 

Won't happen with a regular radiator (non X-flow) with ports up ... but draining such a radiator will be a pain. If you turn that radiator around having the ports down ... draining will be so much easier but bleeding will be a pain. 

 

X-Flow rads are a lot more comfortable in this regard, because the water isn't making a U-turn inside. It will just flow from one tank to the other side's tank in a mostly diagonal pattern. Easier to bleed and drain, easier to route the tubes. 

 

If it's also multiport, you'll end up with a perfectly fine fill and bleed port.

 

P.S.: Looking at the product page you can easily fit a cage for 4x 3.5" HDDs at the back-bottom and 3x 2.5" SSDs on the back behind the mainboard. (yep, confirmed and you can stack even more with additional cages)

P.P.S.: That's a bonkersly enormous case

P.P.P.S.: That case has holes for fill ports! (see manual p.21)

[PEagle]

11 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

Side only supports 120mm fans and rads. So 480mm it is.

That settles on for a 480, modularity is a strong point there. 

12 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

I'd go with an X-Flow multiport rad.

Aren't these less efficient than "U-turn flow" ? I'd go with the alphacool NexXos for the ports especially because of availability on casekings, I did not consider it.

 

14 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

The Aquacomputer pump-res-combos look very similar,

Indeed, i did not find it at first, but I see they're quite similar.

48 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

The EK reservoir is made from acrylic. That's okay but I'd probably go for one with borosilicate glass instead of the acrylic tube.

Can you tell me what makes it better/what kind of trouble there can be with acrylic ?

And I suppose I can't get the EK and put the Aqua computer tank

 

15 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

Would also be a decent place to put a pressure membrane plug.

Are these necessary, the temperature delta on water will be minimal and I can't think of any real thermal expansion because of it... Or maybe I'm missing the big picture.

 

18 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

To drain it: unscrew the plug, screw in a fitting with a bit of tube, open the valve and then open one point in the loop so that air can get in

Thanks, I get it now. I think that case has a pre-drilled hole there for that purpose.

[bowrilla]

13 minutes ago, PEagle said:

Aren't these less efficient than "U-turn flow" ? I'd go with the alphacool NexXos for the ports especially because of availability on casekings, I did not consider it.

A little less efficient but you will win greatly in terms of bleeding, draining and routing the tubes.

 

I'd use the top fill port and try to connect it to one of the radiator ports at the top. You'll need to check specific measurements and you'll probably need the case to take measurements within it. Also make sure, the Alphacool radiator actually fits. The manual states the max dimensions. Alphacool gives very detailed CAD drawings of most of their radiators.

 

Unfortunately, Hardwarelabs doesn't have many multi-port radiators on offer, otherwise I'd go with their rads (usually the best performing ones).

14 minutes ago, PEagle said:

Can you tell me what makes it better/what kind of trouble there can be with acrylic ?

And I suppose I can't get the EK and put the Aqua computer tank

Well it all depends on the mechanism and how they attach the top and the bottom parts. I assume: no, not possible to just switch out the tube. With acrylic the ends of the tube are usually threaded, with glass you will a different construction that hold the top and bottom together holding the tube in place and squeezing it against the o-rings. With Watercool it's the 4 outer metal parts that make it sort of a cage, with aquacomputer I think it's mostly a center metal rod.

 

EK used to have a single res made from borosilicate but apparently they never bothered to adopt it widely.

 

Generally speaking, borosilicate is a lot more scratch and chemical resistant and it is a lot more clear (that's why some enthusiast go for glass tubing over acrylic hardline). Borosilicate glass will not permanently stain (which can happen over time with certain coolants on acrylic). You don't need to be super delicate with it when cleaning.

 

Aquacomputer and Watercool both have a large variety of different lengths. With Aquacomputer, you can also get some special coating - not really necessary, but it doesn't gcost that much extra.

 

If it says a DDC or D5 pump fits, than 99/100 of that specific type will fit. There are sometimes a few weird pumps with different mounting mechanism around. Those are a bit rare though. If you can fit a D5, go with a D5.

24 minutes ago, PEagle said:

Are these necessary, the temperature delta on water will be minimal and I can't think of any real thermal expansion because of it... Or maybe I'm missing the big picture.

No, not necessary. You'll lose some coolant over time through permeation and if the loop is fully sealed, you'll have low pressure in it. The pressure membrane basically lowers a bit the stress on the o-rings. It's not necessary. I personally find it good practice though. Just like fitting thermal probes (at least one). Those are often screw-in sensors so you can just use a T-splitter fitting and slap in the sensor. You could also use the bottom "drain" port on the X-Flow multi-port radiator. That's then probably the lowest possible coolant temp. If you add one near the intake, you could actually calculate the cooling performance of the radiator.

 

28 minutes ago, PEagle said:

Thanks, I get it now. I think that case has a pre-drilled hole there for that purpose.

yep, manual p.21

[PEagle]

2 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

A little less efficient but you will win greatly in terms of bleeding, draining and routing the tubes.

The rad being unavailable where I order is making me go the easy route to the nexxxos xt45

 

3 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

Just like fitting thermal probes (at least one).

The ultitube appears to have one, that plus the glass aspect made me switch despite the higher price. I also included the drain port and will make sure to use it with the pre drilled hole in the case. 

 

I see that you're in germany, can you tell me if "Ab 12 Oktober" means they'll be restocked on the 12th or if it's unsure and that I may have to wait (possibly much) longer ?

 

New part list would be as follows :

 

 

[bowrilla]

11 minutes ago, PEagle said:

I see that you're in germany, can you tell me if "Ab 12 Oktober" means they'll be restocked on the 12th or if it's unsure and that I may have to wait (possibly much) longer ?

You went for the special edition. That will probably be released on 12th Octobre. 

 

Caseking is good and reliable. Another European (but Dutch) vendor is highflow.nl. They are quick to ship. Alphacool has a shop itself as well, just like EK. I think Aquatuning sort of belongs to the same folks as Alphacool itself but it's a general shop that also sells other brands. Alternate has the XT45 X-Flow in stock apparently. So does highflow, but they are a lot more expensive. You can look up availability and prices at many common shops from Austria, Germany, Poland and UK (and some others that ship from other countries) at geizhals.de ... they support various languages.

 

You'll suffer greatly when you try to bleed or drain your loop with a regular rad. That will be a lot of tilting, turning or possibly shaking.

 

EDIT: Oh, and you'll need 120mm fans for the 480mm radiator.

 

P.S.: The X-Flow rad at Alternate is 15€ cheaper than the regular one at Caseking. That can be shipping then.

[PEagle]

11 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

You went for the special edition. That will probably be released on 12th Octobre.

it's already released and available in silver, but I feel I'll like black much more so I'll wait. 

 

11 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

Another European (but Dutch) vendor is highflow.nl

Yep, I've looked at their website but availability is different so I'll need to wait for different parts and I'm cheaping out on shipping... So casekings it is. 

(I'll still check more local shops to see if I can get the crossflow after checking size.)

 

Edit : Doesn't fit 532 for rad, 530 max clearance... not worth the risk for a first build IMO

11 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

You'll suffer greatly when you try to bleed or drain your loop with a regular rad.

even with the port on top that can act as a drain valve ?

11 minutes ago, bowrilla said:

EDIT: Oh, and you'll need 120mm fans for the 480mm radiator.

yep, will order on amazon for a fair price and immediate availability.

 

I'm rethinking the loop routing as this pump doesn't have a top port.

I'll call it a night, but I'll make sure to read you tomorrow if you have any other advices.

 

Thanks a lot for all of your help and all your advices, cheers.

Edited September 30, 2021 by PEagle
Edit on 2nd quote, added info

[bowrilla]

2 minutes ago, PEagle said:

Yep, I've looked at their website but availability is different so I'll need to wait for different parts and I'm cheaping out on shipping... So casekings it is. 

(I'll still check more local shops to see if I can get the crossflow after checking size.)

Check whether Alternate ships to your location. The X-Flow rad is 15€ cheaper than the regular one at Caseking. Should be enough to compensate for shipping.

3 minutes ago, PEagle said:

even with the port on top that can act as a drain valve ?

So turning it upside down. It's a big case and you'll end up with a heavy build. Sure, can work, but ain't nice to handle.

3 minutes ago, PEagle said:

it's already released and available in silver, but I feel I'll like black much more so I'll wait. 

Yep, but they haven't gotten it. Not sure, why there's now just the Special Edition. Even EK doesn't list the regular anymore. That's one way of milking more money out of enthusiasts.

 

5 minutes ago, PEagle said:

I'm rethinking the loop routing as this pump doesn't have a top port.

Well, they have different tops imho. You can just switch them out. Or a long route down ... or X-Flow rad (again ...)

 

By the way I'd go for the vertical GPU mount. That way you can see the nice looking EK block for your GPU. With a regular mount you won't see much of it. And the vertical mount fills the case nicely.

[PEagle]

 

13 hours ago, bowrilla said:

The X-Flow rad is 15€ cheaper than the regular one at Caseking.

In the end it appears the Xflow was too long, I went for the nexxxos. At the moment I'm still on the standard loop and I'll take my time to fill and bleed.

 

13 hours ago, bowrilla said:

Yep, but they haven't gotten it. Not sure, why there's now just the Special Edition. Even EK doesn't list the regular anymore.

I don't think they did a standard for FE this genereation, or at least I've not seen it. 

 

13 hours ago, bowrilla said:

Well, they have different tops imho. You can just switch them out. Or a long route down ... or X-Flow rad (again ...)

I did not find them, plus that would make me loose the pressure membrane so I'll go the long way.

13 hours ago, bowrilla said:

By the way I'd go for the vertical GPU mount.

Done and parts are ordered. Items expected to arrive from 8th of october, I hope they'll quickly arrive as I'm already impatient.

 

Thanks for all of your very precious help.

[bowrilla]

15 minutes ago, PEagle said:

In the end it appears the Xflow was too long, I went for the nexxxos. At the moment I'm still on the standard loop and I'll take my time to fill and bleed.

Well, too bad. With ports up, draining will be a challenge, with ports down, bleeding will. You can try to use the bottom drain plug - you'd need to attach another drain valve probably. 

 

Or you need to tilt it.

24 minutes ago, PEagle said:

I did not find them, plus that would make me loose the pressure membrane so I'll go the long way.

Ah, the Ultitubes. I think they actually don't have different tops. Long run it is then.

 

28 minutes ago, PEagle said:

Done and parts are ordered. Items expected to arrive from 8th of october, I hope they'll quickly arrive as I'm already impatient.

Well, have fun and plan a long afternoon to a whole day to build it - especially as a first time build.

[PEagle]

It's been complete for about a week now, it was quite an adventure but I'm really happy I've gone the extra mile and done it. 

Thanks to all of you for your advices and your time, I wouldn't have done it (or at least not properly) without you. 

 

Here's a picture : 

And here are the plans for the future : 

An extra 360mm rad at the bottom

Relocating the HDDs and maybe dropping 2 of them

Relocating the res to the front (needed to make room for the HDDs)

Adding extra fans/swapping the back one for a 140mm 

And in a much further future, rigid tubes.

[fonzz1e]

good job

 

how's the 45 minutes stress test temps? 

[bowrilla]

Looks good to me. You might want to think about custom PSU cables do get rid of the adaptors. Slightly longer tubes might have given you nicer looking runs in terms of curves but it looks fine enough and definitely functional.

 

First time is always the hardest time and we've all struggled. It's a solid loop that you have there.

[PEagle]

1 hour ago, bowrilla said:

Looks good to me. You might want to think about custom PSU cables do get rid of the adaptors. Slightly longer tubes might have given you nicer looking runs in terms of curves but it looks fine enough and definitely functional.

 

First time is always the hardest time and we've all struggled. It's a solid loop that you have there.

Thanks a lot, it was quite an adventure, the only tube I'd like to have made longer is GPU to CPU, it feels a bit "pinched" as I did not predict the PCIe connectors to interact with it.

Custom cables is on the list of projects, I'm learning how to do it through videos and will check if it's worth it doing it by myself.

19 hours ago, fonzz1e said:

good job

 

how's the 45 minutes stress test temps? 

I did not really do a stress test. Though mining (after several hours) leads me to 76°C memory junction (vs 108 before), fluid around 35°C and GPU around 36°C.

I'll need to stress test it with GPU + CPU. Which program would you recommend ?

[bowrilla]

2 minutes ago, PEagle said:

Thanks a lot, it was quite an adventure, the only tube I'd like to have made longer is GPU to CPU, it feels a bit "pinched" as I did not predict the PCIe connectors to interact with it.

Yep, that's exactly the one I had in mind. With turning the pump by 90° the res-rrad tube might be a bit nicer as well or by changing the ports on the rad. The latter one might look a bit more tidy because you're not crossing in front of the res.

 

3 minutes ago, PEagle said:

Custom cables is on the list of projects, I'm learning how to do it through videos and will check if it's worth it doing it by myself.

Well, for custom cables you'll need the crimp tool (that's like 50€) and LOTS of patience. I've done it but it takes many many hours. If you decide to go for it: MDPC X is probably the best address in Europe for buying your stuff. Huge selection of sleeves, very good cables, alle the connectors and terminals you'd want (though not 100% sure about the 12pin Micro-Fit connector, but you could use the one from your adaptor I guess) and their crimp tool is very good. More professional tools usually go way beyond those 50 bucks.

 

But expect to spend easily 200 bucks to make your own cables and by that time CableMod is not really more expensive and it will save your >dozen hours of work.