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Need advice on sandy bridge (i5 2500k) overclocking

MrP6k

I'm totally new to sandy bridge overclocking, hoping that someone here could help guide me.

 

Here are my system specs:

Cpu: i5 2500k

Gpu: Zotac 1050 ti OC

Mobo: Biostar TP67B+ 

Ram: Teamgroup Elite ddr3 2x4gb 1600mhz

Cpu cooler: Deepcool ice edge 200T (will change it out for a gammaxx 400 if needed)

Psu: Corsair Cx550

 

IMG_20210924_195455.jpg

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Edited by MrP6k
Photos didn't appear

Feel free to @ me if you have any questions!
Please press the button if you think my advice was helpful! Thanks!

"Min-Maxing may not always be the best thing to do, but I will always try." - Me, 2021

PC specs:
-i5 2500k
-TP67B+
-Zotac gtx 970 (the wimpy version)
-256gb V-gen nvme ssd (@ me if you want to know how I gave my P67 board NVME support)
-1tb wd blue hdd
-Corsair CX550
-MSI Mag forge 100r

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More pics of the OC part of the mobo's bios

IMG_20210924_195432.jpg

Feel free to @ me if you have any questions!
Please press the button if you think my advice was helpful! Thanks!

"Min-Maxing may not always be the best thing to do, but I will always try." - Me, 2021

PC specs:
-i5 2500k
-TP67B+
-Zotac gtx 970 (the wimpy version)
-256gb V-gen nvme ssd (@ me if you want to know how I gave my P67 board NVME support)
-1tb wd blue hdd
-Corsair CX550
-MSI Mag forge 100r

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The procedure is the same as it is with modern chips. Start upping the core multiplier and core voltage a little bit at a time, then stress testing to make sure things are stable and temps don't get out of hand. If your computer locks up or shuts down you either need to turn up the voltage or turn down the multiplier.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

 

Desktop:

Intel Core i7-11700K | Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black | ASUS ROG Strix Z590-E Gaming WiFi  | 32 GB G.SKILL TridentZ 3200 MHz | ASUS TUF Gaming RTX 3080 | 1TB Samsung 980 Pro M.2 PCIe 4.0 SSD | 2TB WD Blue M.2 SATA SSD | Seasonic Focus GX-850 Fractal Design Meshify C Windows 10 Pro

 

Laptop:

HP Omen 15 | AMD Ryzen 7 5800H | 16 GB 3200 MHz | Nvidia RTX 3060 | 1 TB WD Black PCIe 3.0 SSD | 512 GB Micron PCIe 3.0 SSD | Windows 11

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Safe volt from back then is about 1.52v, though im pretty sure 1.6v will also work fine as long as you can even cool the cpu

 

These things were known to hit ~5ghz pretty easily if you have a capable cooler and board so theres a ton of ocing potential in this cpu

 

Though yea that cooler is super weak, gammax 400 idk maybe if you are comfortable with 90c then you could get to 5ghz or close to 5ghz

 

 

I dont really have any experience with ocing newer platforms since im on lga 775 and this platform relies on a sht ton of nb volts + good ram

 

Though i think the way to go on an older platform like this is turn off speedstep, turbo, and c1e along with other power saving sht like c states, and if it still exists on this platform disable spread spectrum,

Disable pl2, shove pl1 and core current to 99999 aka unlimited

 

Enable fixed cpu ratio and raise it, im not sure on these i5 what kind of freq they can reach on stock volts, though try 1.25v multi 42, if it doesnt work decrease the multi, if it works increase the multi, find the highest multi.you can set and once youve found your max multi, reduce by one and start stress testing the cpu, i suggest prime95 small ffts for cpu stress testing

 

Since this is a low voltage id say upto 105c is tolerable on p95 since its a very heavy stress test and under regular loads your cpu wont run at those kind of temps, my e8400 3.9ghz 1.28v reaches around 78c when stressed but usually goes to around 72c when i fold on it (basically mining)

 

 

For extra cooling get 2 wires  and if your fan has a molex on it you can just jam the wires into the molex though if you dont have molex and only have the fan connector try jamming the wires in there though if they are too big then you can try bending abit of the copper and cutting it off till it can fit, also i suggest twisting the copper so it isnt a mess, to get the copper wires exposed just use something sharp and slowly cut the wire till bare copper shows up, i think a tutorial will explain this better than i can xD, i use one of those pci brackets from the back of a case and seem to work pretty well for some reason, the middle of a 3 pin fan connector is 12v aka power so the ground is the 1st pin (if your view is on the back of the connector without those small raised bits then ground should be on the left of the middle pin), hook up your ground to -12 and your power to 5 or 12v, if power is hooked up to 5v you are running your fan at 17v which should be ok but 12v then you are running 24v, ok in short bursts but i dont reccomend it for prolonged periods of time, i hook up my fans to the 24 pin mobo connector by just jamming the wires into the 24 pin

 

I think you should just look at 3 pin, molex, and 24 pin mobo connector pinout to get a better understanding of this, i think i have my fan laying around so i think i can show you some pics if you want

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Spoiler

IMG_20210924_213251.thumb.jpg.efd4f5a27fb1acf86e530e78b6b8f2fa.jpgthe extended portion after the black (ground) wire is just a quirk of this proprietary fan, pretty much just a 3 pin with the pwm behind the ground pin so just ignore that and assume its any regular 3 pin, the small metal tabs indicate that this is the back view of the connector, black is ground, red is power though i assume your fan doesnt have this sort of color coding for asthetics reasons

 

IMG_20210924_213945.thumb.jpg.327dc24048403312e781d6285c467919.jpg

This is how i wired up the fan for 17v, the blue wire/pin 14 is the -12v and that connects to the ground wire

 

The black power wire is hooked up to 5v so 5v + 12v = 17v,

 

IMG_20210924_214040.thumb.jpg.3e3f0dc3f62bd9c7b4ff2bf0e727c002.jpgthis is for 24v

 

Just moved the black wire to yellow (+12v) so 12 + 12 = 24v

 

 

Since this is a server fan that uses 1.3a and sounds like a jet engine im not gonna run it obv, and -12v at most goes to 1a max

 

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