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PC shuts down after a few seconds after removing CPU-cooler

aexel05
Go to solution Solved by Hairless Monkey Boy,
9 minutes ago, Mel0nMan said:

So... you literally removed your cooler while your CPU was running Cinebench (probably the highest load it has ever and will ever be under)? Yeah, it definitely would have shut down to prevent damage (although it could have still been a bit damaged). You definitely screwed up your CPU, but it's hard to tell whether it was because of the paste or because of the overheating. Sadly there's not much you can do unless you or a friend has another CPU or board to test with.

OP accidentally got some thermal compound on the pins and cleaned it off. Then OP wanted to see if the PC would boot, so reinstalled the CPU without the cooler to check. Then the PC shutdown while booting.

 

Compounding mistakes.

 

Take a deep breath, OP. It's gonna be fine.

 

Don't remove the CPU before cleaning it. And never boot a PC when the CPU has no cooler on it. Even just placing the cooler on the CPU without compound and without securing it would have been enough for the test you were trying to do, and you could still do that now to see that things are working.

Hello,

I just tried to swap the boxed cooler of my R5 3600 with an aftermarket-cooler.

Removed power from Fans (incl. CPU-Cooler) ran cinebench for a few seconds until the CPU temps reached about 85°, turned off PC and removed the CPU cooler without any problems.

For some reason I unlatched the CPU too and took it out of the socket. While cleaning off the termal paste I got some of it on the side of the CPU and on some pins. 

Cleaned it with alcohol and then I tried whether everything still works, because I thought I could have gotten some paste on the pins or socket.

PC started, windows "loading circle" appeared and then an automatic repair started. 

 

At this point I thought that this proves that everything is working but then the PC shut off by itself. 

In my opinion it's wheter the now maybe somehow broken CPU-MB-combo or thermals.

 

Could this behaviour be caused by not using a cooler while testing or could there something else be broken?

 

What should I do next, attach the new cooler without paste and try to start the PC?

 

I think windows starting and attempting to repair should be a good sign, right?


Thank you for your help and excuse my english, I'm writing this in a rush.

Windows 11 Pro 22H2

Ryzen 3600

Gigabyte B450M DS3H

GIGABYTE RTX 2080 GAMING OC

G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory

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So... you literally removed your cooler while your CPU was running Cinebench (probably the highest load it has ever and will ever be under)? Yeah, it definitely would have shut down to prevent damage (although it could have still been a bit damaged). You definitely screwed up your CPU, but it's hard to tell whether it was because of the paste or because of the overheating. Sadly there's not much you can do unless you or a friend has another CPU or board to test with.

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5 minutes ago, Mel0nMan said:

So... you literally removed your cooler while your CPU was running Cinebench (probably the highest load it has ever and will ever be under)? Yeah, it definitely would have shut down to prevent damage (although it could have still been a bit damaged). You definitely screwed up your CPU, but it's hard to tell whether it was because of the paste or because of the overheating. Sadly there's not much you can do unless you or a friend has another CPU or board to test with.

No no no. I ran cinebench too warm up the thermal paste, shut down the PC myself after a few seconds and then properly removed the CPU cooler. Only the CPU-cooler fan was removed while running

I could have overseen some thermalpaste on an pin or maybe some even got into the socket. That might be the problem.

Windows started and tried a recovery, so to some degree the CPU definitely works.

Windows 11 Pro 22H2

Ryzen 3600

Gigabyte B450M DS3H

GIGABYTE RTX 2080 GAMING OC

G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory

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Correct me if I'm wrong, but are you complaining that the PC shuts down when using it without a CPU cooler? because thats what its supposed to do to prevent damage.

If you want me to answer, please use the quote function or tag me. I dont get notified unless you do

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3 minutes ago, jonahadami said:

No no no. I ran cinebench too warm up the thermal paste, shut down the PC and then properly removed the CPU cooler.

I could have overseen some thermalpaste on an pin or maybe some even got into the socket.

Windows started and tried a recovery, so to some degree the CPU definitely works.

Even if a little bit of thermal paste would get into the socket, it's normally not conductive and as long as you let the alcohol completely dry out before reinstalling your CPU i don't think your motherboard or CPU is damaged. Unless you dropped any of them that is.

 

Just remount everything over again and try to boot again.

If someone did not use reason to reach their conclusion in the first place, you cannot use reason to convince them otherwise.

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9 minutes ago, Mel0nMan said:

So... you literally removed your cooler while your CPU was running Cinebench (probably the highest load it has ever and will ever be under)? Yeah, it definitely would have shut down to prevent damage (although it could have still been a bit damaged). You definitely screwed up your CPU, but it's hard to tell whether it was because of the paste or because of the overheating. Sadly there's not much you can do unless you or a friend has another CPU or board to test with.

OP accidentally got some thermal compound on the pins and cleaned it off. Then OP wanted to see if the PC would boot, so reinstalled the CPU without the cooler to check. Then the PC shutdown while booting.

 

Compounding mistakes.

 

Take a deep breath, OP. It's gonna be fine.

 

Don't remove the CPU before cleaning it. And never boot a PC when the CPU has no cooler on it. Even just placing the cooler on the CPU without compound and without securing it would have been enough for the test you were trying to do, and you could still do that now to see that things are working.

BabyBlu (Primary): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3GHz, 5.0GHz all-core, delidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000MHz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ up to 5.0GHz, 4.8Ghz all-core, relidded w/ LM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, w/ Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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7 minutes ago, Tegneren said:

Correct me if I'm wrong, but are you complaining that the PC shuts down when using it without a CPU cooler? because thats what its supposed to do to prevent damage.

Yeah basicly thats what I'm asking.  Does tempeature build up so fast, that it is supposed to shut down immediately? 

 

I dont want to completely attach the new cooler+thermalpaste only to find out, that it doesn't work.

Would only Cooler+Fan be appropiate for just trying whether the PC boots into windows?

Windows 11 Pro 22H2

Ryzen 3600

Gigabyte B450M DS3H

GIGABYTE RTX 2080 GAMING OC

G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory

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2 minutes ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

OP accidentally got some thermal compound on the pins and cleaned it off. Then OP wanted to see if the PC would boot, so reinstalled the CPU without the cooler to check. Then the PC shutdown while booting.

 

Compounding mistakes.

 

Take a deep breath, OP. It's gonna be fine.

 

Don't remove the CPU before cleaning it. And never boot a PC when the CPU had no cooler on it. Even just placing the cooler on the CPU without compound and without securing it would have been enough for the test you were trying to do, and you could still do that now to see that things are working.

Yeah you got it. 
Dont know why I removed the CPU from the socket too. I was just acting and not thinking...

Okay so I can do my short testing with only the headsink of the old stock-cooler attached?

Windows 11 Pro 22H2

Ryzen 3600

Gigabyte B450M DS3H

GIGABYTE RTX 2080 GAMING OC

G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory

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3 minutes ago, jonahadami said:

Yeah basicly thats what I'm asking.  Does tempeature build up so fast, that it is supposed to shut down immediately? 

 

I dont want to completely attach the new cooler+thermalpaste only to find out, that it doesn't work?

Would only Cooler+Fan be appropiate for just trying whether the PC boots into windows?

Yes it does. You might be fine going into BIOS for a short time, but trying to load Windows put more load on the CPU than the heat spreader alone can deal with.

 

But as @HairlessMonkeyBoysaid, butting the cooler on without paste should let you do some basic stuff.

 

If you want me to answer, please use the quote function or tag me. I dont get notified unless you do

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2 minutes ago, jonahadami said:

Okay so I can do my short testing with only the headsink of the old stock-cooler attached?

Yes, do make sure it has at least a little bit of thermal compound.
You should be able to feel the cooler warm up.

And depending on your type of CPU yes that can be instantly after boot and a lot too.

Just happy current CPU's have all sorts of safety's, so most likely the CPU will be fine.

Just take your time, and dont try any shortcuts, and those will lead in destruction.

When i ask for more specs, don't expect me to know the answer!
I'm just helping YOU to help YOURSELF!
(The more info you give the easier it is for others to help you out!)

Not willing to capitulate to the ignorance of the masses!

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4 minutes ago, jonahadami said:

I was just acting and not thinking...

We've all been there 🤣

4 minutes ago, jonahadami said:

Okay so I can do my short testing with only the headsink of the old stock-cooler attached?

Yeah. You can attach the stock cooler without thermal compound and without securing it. Just let gravity keep it on. I've done this before. That will be enough for a quick "peace of mind" boot. Just don't put it under any significant load.

BabyBlu (Primary): 

  • CPU: Intel Core i9 9900K @ up to 5.3GHz, 5.0GHz all-core, delidded
  • Motherboard: Asus Maximus XI Hero
  • RAM: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 4x8GB DDR4-3200 @ 4000MHz 16-18-18-34
  • GPU: MSI RTX 2080 Sea Hawk EK X, 2070MHz core, 8000MHz mem
  • Case: Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage: XPG SX8200 Pro 2TB, 3x ADATASU800 1TB (RAID 0), Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB
  • PSU: Corsair HX1000i
  • Display: MSI MPG341CQR 34" 3440x1440 144Hz Freesync, Dell S2417DG 24" 2560x1440 165Hz Gsync
  • Cooling: Custom water loop (CPU & GPU), Radiators: 1x140mm(Back), 1x280mm(Top), 1x420mm(Front)
  • Keyboard: Corsair Strafe RGB (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse: MasterMouse MM710
  • Headset: Corsair Void Pro RGB
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Roxanne (Wife Build):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 4790K @ up to 5.0GHz, 4.8Ghz all-core, relidded w/ LM
  • Motherboard: Asus Z97A
  • RAM: G.Skill Sniper 4x8GB DDR3-2400 @ 10-12-12-24
  • GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 FTW2 w/ LM
  • Case: Corsair Vengeance C70, w/ Custom Side-Panel Window
  • Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB, Silicon Power A80 2TB NVME
  • PSU: Corsair AX760
  • Display: Samsung C27JG56 27" 2560x1440 144Hz Freesync
  • Cooling: Corsair H115i RGB
  • Keyboard: GMMK TKL(Kailh Box White)
  • Mouse: Glorious Model O-
  • Headset: SteelSeries Arctis 7
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

BigBox (HTPC):

  • CPU: Ryzen 5800X3D
  • Motherboard: Gigabyte B550i Aorus Pro AX
  • RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB DDR4-3600 @ 3600MHz 14-14-14-28
  • GPU: MSI RTX 3080 Ventus 3X Plus OC, de-shrouded, LM TIM, replaced mem therm pads
  • Case: Fractal Design Node 202
  • Storage: SP A80 1TB, WD Black SN770 2TB
  • PSU: Corsair SF600 Gold w/ NF-A9x14
  • Display: Samsung QN90A 65" (QLED, 4K, 120Hz, HDR, VRR)
  • Cooling: Thermalright AXP-100 Copper w/ NF-A12x15
  • Keyboard/Mouse: Rii i4
  • Controllers: 4X Xbox One & 2X N64 (with USB)
  • Sound: Denon AVR S760H with 5.1.2 Atmos setup.
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

Harmonic (NAS/Game/Plex/Other Server):

  • CPU: Intel Core i7 6700
  • Motherboard: ASRock FATAL1TY H270M
  • RAM: 64GB DDR4-2133
  • GPU: Intel HD Graphics 530
  • Case: Fractal Design Define 7
  • HDD: 3X Seagate Exos X16 14TB in RAID 5
  • SSD: Inland Premium 512GB NVME, Sabrent 1TB NVME
  • Optical: BDXL WH14NS40 flashed to WH16NS60
  • PSU: Corsair CX450
  • Display: None
  • Cooling: Noctua NH-U14S
  • Keyboard/Mouse: None
  • OS: Windows 10 Pro

NAS:

  • Synology DS216J
  • 2x8TB WD Red NAS HDDs in RAID 1. 8TB usable space
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6 minutes ago, Tegneren said:

But as @HairlessMonkeyBoysaid, butting the cooler on without paste should let you do some basic stuff.

 

 

6 minutes ago, HanZie82 said:

CPU will be fine

 

5 minutes ago, HairlessMonkeyBoy said:

That will be enough for a quick "peace of mind" boot

 

 

 

Luckily it worked. Windows tried to repair itself, skiped that, logged into windows and then shut down again.
Everything seems to work properly.

Now I'm optimistic enough to replace the cooler with the new one.

 

I'll post an update if I'm successfull.. or somehow manage to turn my Ryzen into a Pentium while doing so;)

Thank you for your affirmation, didnt want to cause more harm.

Windows 11 Pro 22H2

Ryzen 3600

Gigabyte B450M DS3H

GIGABYTE RTX 2080 GAMING OC

G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory

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To put an end to this saga:

I managed to successfully swap the Cooler.

Works fine and as intended.

 

Thank you for your help

Windows 11 Pro 22H2

Ryzen 3600

Gigabyte B450M DS3H

GIGABYTE RTX 2080 GAMING OC

G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory

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