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Need help with picking a new PSU

Hello

 

About a year ago I upgraded my system from an old 550w crapper to an EVGA 650W B5 psu. However, it;s been doing funky things recently like turning on, turning off and turning on again all on it's own. It also overheats really easily and only under moderate load. I thought it'd have enough clearance, but I guess it didn't, and now i dont trust outervisions calculator. So now I'm in the market for a new PSU (<$100 if possible), recommendations needed

I also don't care if it's modular or not

 

System specs: 

- RTX 2060 (OC'd)

- ryzen 7 1700X (OC'd)

- Asus  b350 pro

- 2 sticks of 8GB PNY 2666mhz ram

- wd m.2 ssd

- two 7.5k rpm 3.5" hard drives (can't stagger startup, they run in raid)

- 5 case fans

- bunch of USB 3.0 devices, plus a usb splitter

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650 should be good tho. whats your ghz on your cpu and gpu?  

|:Insert something funny:|

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1 minute ago, adarw said:

650 should be good tho. whats your ghz on your cpu and gpu?  

3.9gh on the CPU 

 

1700mhz core for the gpu, 1850 for the vram

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4 minutes ago, adarw said:

650 should be good tho. whats your ghz on your cpu and gpu?  

nah, 750 is preferred, i'm planning to upgrade cpu and mobo in the near future

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29 minutes ago, user485 said:

System specs: 

- RTX 2060 (OC'd)

- ryzen 7 1700X (OC'd)

- Asus  b350 pro

- 2 sticks of 8GB PNY 2666mhz ram

- wd m.2 ssd

- two 7.5k rpm 3.5" hard drives (can't stagger startup, they run in raid)

- 5 case fans

- bunch of USB 3.0 devices, plus a usb splitter

Outervision is shit, but even 500W would be quite enough for that spec.

5 minutes ago, user485 said:

nah, 750 is preferred, i'm planning to upgrade cpu and mobo in the near future

To what extent?

 

Where do you buy a PSU?

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21 minutes ago, user485 said:

However, it;s been doing funky things recently like turning on, turning off and turning on again all on it's own.

The computer turns itself on? That sounds more like a motherboard issue or broken power switch. Could also be scheduling in windows to turn the PC on at that time. 

 

23 minutes ago, user485 said:

It also overheats really easily and only under moderate load.

How are you measuring the temperature of the power supply? What makes you think the PSU is over heating?

 

Your system wouldn't be drawing more than 650w, even with your overclocks. 

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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To what extent?

x570, ryzen 5600x

 

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Where do you buy a PSU?

newegg, amazon, but bestbuy is an option too

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The computer turns itself on? That sounds more like a motherboard issue or broken power switch. Could also be scheduling in windows to turn the PC on at that time. 

 

I should clarify. This is on startup. When I press the power button, the computer will startup (fans on, hard drive on). It'll then immediately shutoff, and come back on again on it's own. This is all before I even see the windows login screen. As for when it overheats, it turns off. No "shutting down" screen, just off.

 

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How are you measuring the temperature of the power supply? What makes you think the PSU is over heating?

No way for me to measure PSU temps with software, but I figured that out with a little trial and error, where I first stress tested the PC. It shut off. I then let the psu cool off, but repeated the same thing but with a desk fan blowing on it. It didn't shut off. I thought it might have been an issue with the supply fan itself, but it was spinning fine.

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3 minutes ago, user485 said:

should clarify. This is on startup. When I press the power button, the computer will startup (fans on, hard drive on). It'll then immediately shutoff, and come back on again on it's own. This is all before I even see the windows login screen

That sounds like your motherboard is checking the memory profiles... Bad overclock on the memory? Bad CPU overclock? Dead CMOS battery?

 

Do you have any overclock on the memory (including DOCP/XMP)? If so disable it and see if it still restarts on boot. Also disable your CPU overclock.

When you shut down the PC at night do you unplug the PC from the outlet?

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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Do you have any overclock on the memory (including DOCP/XMP)?

No, but I noticed a discrepancy in the BIOS. Lists the current speed as 2400 mhz, even though it's already been set to 2666 in bios settings. TM says it's 2666 mhz tho

https://imgur.com/a/vjzsgEc

 

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When you shut down the PC at night do you unplug the PC from the outlet?

I do turn off the power bar. I've also noticed it tends to after it's been off a while (like mornings). I have limited electronics knowledge but my best guess would be it could be a capacitor or something?

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46 minutes ago, user485 said:

nah, 750 is preferred, i'm planning to upgrade cpu and mobo in the near future

That's the right attitude! I don't get peeps who buy PSU's that are just good enough for their present rig, with no thought about future upgradeability. When I'd built my main rig back in August 2019, I had the same CPU, but a VEGA64 Red Devil (which, admittedly, is a power hungry GPU), and though 850W would more than suffice even if I were to upgrade my GPU (which I did), I went for a 1kW Platinum rated PSU simply because I've always believed in having too much, rather than not enough.

 

Same goes for my other rigs, the Seasonic X-1250 Gold PSU in my 2nd rig was bought years ago (I think about 8 years ago), it handled 2x GB VEGA64 Gaming OC with an OC'ed Intel i7 3960X which drew the most power it had ever handled, till now with just a single VEGA64 Red Devil. This PSU has lasted me years through various upgrades, from single to dual GPU's, even had a custom water cooled 2x R9 290X EK WB setup a few years back.

 

Even IF you had not planned for an upgrade, get more than what's recommended, for more headroom for upgrades (like a more powerful GPU, AIO's, more HDDs, fans, etc). Would you be surprised to learn that my 1kW PSU is the weakest I have? I also have a spare Enermax MAX REVO 1500W PSU on standby.

Main Rig: AMD AM4 R9 5900X (12C/24T) + Tt Water 3.0 ARGB 360 AIO | Gigabyte X570 Aorus Xtreme | 2x 16GB Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3600C16 | XFX MERC 310 RX 7900 XTX | 256GB Sabrent Rocket NVMe M.2 PCIe Gen 3.0 (OS) | 4TB Lexar NM790 NVMe M.2 PCIe4x4 | 2TB TG Cardea Zero Z440 NVMe M.2 PCIe Gen4x4 | 4TB Samsung 860 EVO SATA SSD | 2TB Samsung 860 QVO SATA SSD | 6TB WD Black HDD | CoolerMaster H500M | Corsair HX1000 Platinum | Topre Type Heaven + Seenda Ergonomic W/L Vertical Mouse + 8BitDo Ultimate 2.4G | iFi Micro iDSD Black Label | Philips Fidelio B97 | C49HG90DME 49" 32:9 144Hz Freesync 2 | Omnidesk Pro 2020 48" | 64bit Win11 Pro 23H2

2nd Rig: AMD AM4 R9 3900X + TR PA 120 SE | Gigabyte X570S Aorus Elite AX | 2x 16GB Patriot Viper Elite II DDR4 4000MHz | Sapphire Nitro+ RX 6900 XT | 500GB Crucial P2 Plus NVMe M.2 PCIe Gen 4.0 (OS)2TB Adata Legend 850 NVMe M.2 PCIe Gen4x4 |  2TB Kingston NV2 NVMe M.2 PCIe Gen4x4 | 4TB Leven JS600 SATA SSD | 2TB Seagate HDD | Keychron K2 + Logitech G703 | SOLDAM XR-1 Black Knight | Enermax MAXREVO 1500 | 64bit Win11 Pro 23H2

 

 

 

 

 

 

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3 minutes ago, user485 said:

No, but I noticed a discrepancy in the BIOS. Lists the current speed as 2400 mhz, even though it's already been set to 2666 in bios settings. TM says it's 2666 mhz tho

https://imgur.com/a/vjzsgEc

 

I do turn off the power bar. I've also noticed it tends to after it's been off a while (like mornings). I have limited electronics knowledge but my best guess would be it could be a capacitor or something?

Try replacing the silver button battery on the motherboard. A CR2032 battery only costs a dollar. Stop turning the power strip off. 

A new battery might stop it from double booting when you first turn it on and fix that memory speed issue.

 

Is your CPU overclock still applied? Did you apply the CPU overclock through the BIOS or are you using software such as Ryzen master?

 

It's not a capacitor issue. Your motherboard settings are stored in volatile memory and the battery provides a tiny bit of power to keep that information stored even when the PC is unplugged. Without the battery as soon as the motherboard loses power it'll forget its settings and the next time you turn it on it'll be like the first time it has ever been turned on. The motherboard would need to perform checks to identify the hardware and settings, which is why it boots twice. 

Normally the battery lasts 5+ years but if you're constantly turning the power off at the outlet/power strip the battery doesn't last as long. 

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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Just now, Spotty said:

Try replacing the silver button battery on the motherboard. A CR2032 battery only costs a dollar. Stop turning the power strip off. 

A new battery might stop it from double booting when you first turn it on and fix that memory speed issue.

 

Is your CPU overclock still applied? Did you apply the CPU overclock through the BIOS or are you using software such as Ryzen master?

 

It's not a capacitor issue. Your motherboard settings are stored in volatile memory and the battery provides a tiny bit of power to keep that information stored even when the PC is unplugged. Without the battery as soon as the motherboard loses power it'll forget its settings and the next time you turn it on it'll be like the first time it has ever been turned on. The motherboard would need to perform checks to identify the hardware and settings, which is why it boots twice. 

Normally the battery lasts 5+ years but if you're constantly turning the power off at the outlet/power strip the battery doesn't last as long. 

I used Ryzen master, but I did disable the OC.

 

Thanks for the tip about the battery, glad I asked before buying a new PSU

 

I'm still concerned about the computer under load though, because I literally can't do any of my movie hardcoding anymore, or anything heavy for that matter. Any solution to that?

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1 minute ago, user485 said:

I'm still concerned about the computer under load though, because I literally can't do any of my movie hardcoding anymore, or anything heavy for that matter. Any solution to that?

Crashing under load won't be related to the CMOS battery, so that would be a separate issue.

Does it immediately crash when you start the transcode or does it crash part way through?

Does it restart or does it just switch off?

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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1 minute ago, Spotty said:

Crashing under load won't be related to the CMOS battery, so that would be a separate issue.

Does it immediately crash when you start the transcode or does it crash part way through?

Does it restart or does it just switch off?

It's under any intensive load, like >75% GPU, >75% CPU

 

Could be hardcoding, heavy gaming with something else in the background. It's never on start, it's always while said application is running. When it happens, PSU will get hot and the PC will just switch off.

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8 minutes ago, user485 said:

When it happens, PSU will get hot and the PC will just switch off.

What case do you have? Is the PSU fan facing up or down? The PSU really shouldn't be overheating, especially if the fan is spinning. 

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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5 minutes ago, Spotty said:

What case do you have? Is the PSU fan facing up or down? The PSU really shouldn't be overheating, especially if the fan is spinning. 

deepcool matrex 55

 

PSU facing down, but case has psu fan grill with plenty of clearance off the ground. I keep it plenty clear of dust

 

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2 hours ago, user485 said:

deepcool matrex 55

 

PSU facing down, but case has psu fan grill with plenty of clearance off the ground. I keep it plenty clear of dust

Hmm, okay. Face down is the only way to mount in that case since it has a PSU shroud and if it's getting airflow then that shouldn't be an issue.

 

I'm not actually sure what's happening in regards to it shutting down when you are putting a load on it. I'm still not convinced it's the PSU overheating.

Did you have another PSU you could test with? What was the old 550W model you had before the EVGA B5 unit? Do you still have that?

 

When you run a load on your system can you open some monitoring software such as HWinfo64 and keep an eye on things like CPU clock speed and CPU temperature. Try running Cinebench with HWinfo64 logging enabled and seeing if it crashes.

CPU: Intel i7 6700k  | Motherboard: Gigabyte Z170x Gaming 5 | RAM: 2x16GB 3000MHz Corsair Vengeance LPX | GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080ti | PSU: Corsair RM750x (2018) | Case: BeQuiet SilentBase 800 | Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports | SSD: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + Samsung 840 500GB + Crucial MX500 2TB | Monitor: Acer Predator XB271HU + Samsung BX2450

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