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Memory chips without cooling?

Stargaze obama

I have created a custom block for my rx 570, I'm not running any oc's on the core or memory, but only the chip and vrms have cooling, the memory however doesn't, many forums state that it's not necessary as long as air is blowing over the card, I don't have air blowing directly over, the radiator may blow a small amount over but it's an open air case so do I still need to worry? I haven't noticed any core or memory down clocking during gaming and they get pretty warm to the touch close to being too hot but bearable if that makes any sense

16172771874275110934248370531195.jpg

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19 minutes ago, Stargaze obama said:

get pretty warm to the touch

Dont tell me you're using human skin instead of software to measure the temps of memory chips, some of the most sensitive and crucial components of your graphics card

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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4 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

Dont tell me you're using human skin instead of software to measure the temps of memory chips, some of the most sensitive and crucial components of your graphics card

A lot of gpus don't have memory chip temperature sensors.

I could use some help with this!

please, pm me if you would like to contribute to my gpu bios database (includes overclocking bios, stock bios, and upgrades to gpus via modding)

Bios database

My beautiful, but not that powerful, main PC:

prior build:

Spoiler

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Fasauceome said:

Dont tell me you're using human skin instead of software to measure the temps of memory chips, some of the most sensitive and crucial components of your graphics card

That's exactly what I'm doing since I don't have a heat sensitive camera and my card does not have temperature sensors for my chips, just vrms and core temps are available

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8 hours ago, Stargaze obama said:

That's exactly what I'm doing since I don't have a heat sensitive camera and my card does not have temperature sensors for my chips, just vrms and core temps are available

If you're gonna do some card modding and experiment with no heat sinks, you may want to get some thermocouples.

 

The human body really isn't good at knowing when something is too hot on a computer.

I WILL find your ITX build thread, and I WILL recommend the SIlverstone Sugo SG13B

 

Primary PC:

i7 8086k - EVGA Z370 Classified K - G.Skill Trident Z RGB - WD SN750 - Jedi Order Titan Xp - Hyper 212 Black (with RGB Riing flair) - EVGA G3 650W - dual booting Windows 10 and Linux - Black and green theme, Razer brainwashed me.

Draws 400 watts under max load, for reference.

 

How many watts do I needATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 spec, PSU misconceptions, protections explainedgroup reg is bad

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12 hours ago, Fasauceome said:

If you're gonna do some card modding and experiment with no heat sinks, you may want to get some thermocouples.

 

The human body really isn't good at knowing when something is too hot on a computer.

But, u can still use human skin as a measure point. Because u will feel pain when it's about 40°C especially when it has good thermal transfer, for example u can put small amount of thermal paste on your fingers and put it on the memory. But generally if u don't overclock your mem u should be fine. As long as you stay under 60°C, after that u can star seeing small amount of instability or artefacts. Personally I would use small heatsings with thermal pads. Or put fan directly in front of the card. That should give u some headroom for OC your mem 

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On 4/2/2021 at 10:22 AM, tomcer2003 said:

But, u can still use human skin as a measure point. Because u will feel pain when it's about 40°C especially when it has good thermal transfer, for example u can put small amount of thermal paste on your fingers and put it on the memory. But generally if u don't overclock your mem u should be fine. As long as you stay under 60°C, after that u can star seeing small amount of instability or artefacts. Personally I would use small heatsings with thermal pads. Or put fan directly in front of the card. That should give u some headroom for OC your mem 

I have an 80mm fan blowing a decent amount of air over the vrms, and I can feel this air but very faintly across the card, however 3 of the chips are blocked by my waterblock and I'm most worried about them not getting sufficient air, it is open air and the rad fan is circulation air upwards like I'm the photos

16175337754227234291537222925012.jpg

16175338021963698298991769640272.jpg

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5 hours ago, Stargaze obama said:

I have an 80mm fan blowing a decent amount of air over the vrms, and I can feel this air but very faintly across the card, however 3 of the chips are blocked by my waterblock and I'm most worried about them not getting sufficient air, it is open air and the rad fan is circulation air upwards like I'm the photos

16175337754227234291537222925012.jpg

16175338021963698298991769640272.jpg

If u don't see any artefacting in 3D load, you should be fine. But if u have still your stock heatsink there should be some sort of metal to cover them. I would rip it of and put it on the mem, just to be safe and for some oc. Or just use some old heatsink from old motherboard. This is just little suggestion, but if I watercoold core. You can do some volt mod and push core way up. If u will send me your gpu model or VRM controller I will send u schematic and u could do it. U don't have to, but I love a little extreme moding for gpus 

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On 4/4/2021 at 5:38 PM, tomcer2003 said:

If u don't see any artefacting in 3D load, you should be fine. But if u have still your stock heatsink there should be some sort of metal to cover them. I would rip it of and put it on the mem, just to be safe and for some oc. Or just use some old heatsink from old motherboard. This is just little suggestion, but if I watercoold core. You can do some volt mod and push core way up. If u will send me your gpu model or VRM controller I will send u schematic and u could do it. U don't have to, but I love a little extreme moding for gpus 

I'm running an rx 570 4gb from saphire, the itx variant, not looking to mess with voltages though, and the cooling plate for the chips is soldered directly to the fin stack and heat pipes

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2 hours ago, Stargaze obama said:

I'm running an rx 570 4gb from saphire, the itx variant, not looking to mess with voltages though, and the cooling plate for the chips is soldered directly to the fin stack and heat pipes

If u have soldering station or blowing torch use it to desolder it. If u have small heatsinks use it instead. As I mentioned earlier if u don't see any artefacting or stability issues, you are probably fine. Pcb has some heatmass so it should make some job instead of ordinary cooling. These memory is inverted, so if u would blow air from the back or the card it should be quite good. Or if u have backplate add some thermal pads and it should be more than fine 

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27 minutes ago, tomcer2003 said:

If u have soldering station or blowing torch use it to desolder it. If u have small heatsinks use it instead. As I mentioned earlier if u don't see any artefacting or stability issues, you are probably fine. Pcb has some heatmass so it should make some job instead of ordinary cooling. These memory is inverted, so if u would blow air from the back or the card it should be quite good. Or if u have backplate add some thermal pads and it should be more than fine 

Unfortunately the card does not come with a back plate, there feels to be some air circulation but very minimal amounts, I have an angle grinder and some steel sheets I can use though, how would you de solder the entire plate when each fin that makes contact is soldered? That's a lot of fins and I think the plate would Interfere with my block, it is a cpu block so it's triple the needed size

 

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1 hour ago, Stargaze obama said:

Unfortunately the card does not come with a back plate, there feels to be some air circulation but very minimal amounts, I have an angle grinder and some steel sheets I can use though, how would you de solder the entire plate when each fin that makes contact is soldered? That's a lot of fins and I think the plate would Interfere with my block, it is a cpu block so it's triple the needed size

 

Hmm, just grind some aluminium plate than and make some holes in it to screw it there. It should do its job. Please don't use steel. Over time it will get rusty and rust is conductive, so it may short something in a long run. 

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19 hours ago, 8-Bit Ninja said:

I probably would, I don't think I need to though as all my games are running fine, no issues for me so far

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