Intel golden sample giveaway winners

[AnomalyDesign]

This thread's gone pretty quiet, but I'm curious if anyone has finished builds using the cryo cooler. I just put the finishing touches on mine today after finally getting some Alphacool parts in from Germany to clean up the GPU loop. Might do a build log in that forum if I get the time.

 

Looking forward to hopefully many years with this as my everyday rig, thanks to LMG, Intel and Cooler Master

[DigitalHabit]

18 hours ago, AnomalyDesign said:

This thread's gone pretty quiet, but I'm curious if anyone has finished builds using the cryo cooler. I just put the finishing touches on mine today after finally getting some Alphacool parts in from Germany to clean up the GPU loop. Might do a build log in that forum if I get the time.

 

Looking forward to hopefully many years with this as my everyday rig, thanks to LMG, Intel and Cooler Master

Looks really good, but how did you attach the pump? Is that just simply double sided tape? I'm getting ready to install mine cause I have a SATA adapter coming this week that I'll be able to use your fix on and I'm looking at my case and it doesn't seem to have much room to fit the pump anywhere.  I'll have to put the rad on the front and then the only place I could screw it in would be where the rear fan is, unless double sided tape is good enough

 

 

 

[AnomalyDesign]

6 hours ago, DigitalHabit said:

Looks really good, but how did you attach the pump? Is that just simply double sided tape? I'm getting ready to install mine cause I have a SATA adapter coming this week that I'll be able to use your fix on and I'm looking at my case and it doesn't seem to have much room to fit the pump anywhere.  I'll have to put the rad on the front and then the only place I could screw it in would be where the rear fan is, unless double sided tape is good enough

 

 

 

The build looks nice! If you decide to use the cryo cooler front mounted, maybe that 240mm AIO could go on your GPU.

 

As for mounting the pump, it would need to be very strong double sided tape, mostly because the tubing is so stiff. In my case I was lucky that two of the mounting holes on the pump line up with vertical reservoir mounts on the case (though I didn't have small enough nuts and bolts on hand, so I just have zip ties going through the holes for now). That 120mm fan mount at the back would be a good choice, but in my case the tubes were slightly too short for that, plus if you're front mounting, the radiator would have to be mounted tubes up, which isn't ideal.

 

If I were front mounting in a case like yours, I'd take advantage of the clever screws included with the cryo cooler. They're designed so that you can actually mount the pump directly to the radiator itself, as each of the included fan screws has a tapped opening on the top. I think you'd just want to flip the fans around so that the radiator itself is mounted to the front of the case, then the fans in a pull configuration, then the pump mounted to one of the fans. That way you should at least be able to keep the radiator tubes-down.

 

Though any front mount radiator configuration has the unavoidable problem of blowing ~350w worth of hot air directly onto your GPU etc, so make sure to have plenty of good exhaust fans to keep the case from becoming an oven. 

[DigitalHabit]

2 hours ago, AnomalyDesign said:

The build looks nice! If you decide to use the cryo cooler front mounted, maybe that 240mm AIO could go on your GPU.

 

As for mounting the pump, it would need to be very strong double sided tape, mostly because the tubing is so stiff. In my case I was lucky that two of the mounting holes on the pump line up with vertical reservoir mounts on the case (though I didn't have small enough nuts and bolts on hand, so I just have zip ties going through the holes for now). That 120mm fan mount at the back would be a good choice, but in my case the tubes were slightly too short for that, plus if you're front mounting, the radiator would have to be mounted tubes up, which isn't ideal.

 

If I were front mounting in a case like yours, I'd take advantage of the clever screws included with the cryo cooler. They're designed so that you can actually mount the pump directly to the radiator itself, as each of the included fan screws has a tapped opening on the top. I think you'd just want to flip the fans around so that the radiator itself is mounted to the front of the case, then the fans in a pull configuration, then the pump mounted to one of the fans. That way you should at least be able to keep the radiator tubes-down.

 

Though any front mount radiator configuration has the unavoidable problem of blowing ~350w worth of hot air directly onto your GPU etc, so make sure to have plenty of good exhaust fans to keep the case from becoming an oven. 

I would love to put the 240 on my GPU, but with GPUs priced the way they are right now and my lack of experience I don't know that I want to risk customizing it right now, plus at the moment even under heavy load it only reaches about 60 C so I'm pretty happy with it how it is.  Thanks for the advise, as soon as I get the connector I will set it all up with the Cryo Cooler and let you know what I think of it with your fix.

[DigitalHabit]

Ok, so I finally got the fix all setup and wow, that sure makes a difference, the pump is so quite now I was kinda concerned it wasn't even running.  I'm down to roughly 27 C on Cryo mode but when I run Cinebench R23 I thermal throttle almost instantly, but when I run it with my MSI 240 AIO I'm able to at least get 3 runs in before it starts to thermal throttle.  Is that benchmark just not good to use with this cooler?

[AnomalyDesign]

7 hours ago, DigitalHabit said:

Ok, so I finally got the fix all setup and wow, that sure makes a difference, the pump is so quite now I was kinda concerned it wasn't even running.  I'm down to roughly 27 C on Cryo mode but when I run Cinebench R23 I thermal throttle almost instantly, but when I run it with my MSI 240 AIO I'm able to at least get 3 runs in before it starts to thermal throttle.  Is that benchmark just not good to use with this cooler?

Glad the adapter mod worked out! Yeah, cinebench is pretty much a worst case scenario for this cooler. Hitting all 20 threads for extended periods of time is not really what it's designed for, especially AVX loads. You can mitigate this a little by turning down the voltages. On my system I got it to where cinebench can do continuous runs at about 4.85ghz in the mid 80s celcius which is perfectly fine for my purposes, but the chip could probably do 5.3ghz in the same scenario with high quality traditional liquid cooling. Of course a traditional liquid cooler won't get the 5.6ghz speeds this cryo cooler does in games. 

 

That's the tradeoff of this cooler. It gets you some extra speed on light loads like gaming, but at the cost of throttling under very heavy prolonged loads. You have to decide what your uses are whether it makes sense.

 

I've attached my current Intel xtu OC settings as a starting point to look at how to avoid thermal throttling. It took me a while to get my head around it all. The "per point voltage offset" tab is where you can really improve your all core performance by decreasing voltage on point 5 and point 6 as much as possible (without the system crashing). For point 8 the higher you can comfortably go, the better top speed you should get on light loads (in my case I wanted to keep the core voltage under 1.4v). The text document is my notes on the minimum stable voltages I could reach at given clock speeds (first column is the clock speed, second is the voltage at idle,  third is voltage under load, read from hwinfo). The numbers in parentheses are the different voltage offsets I was trying at those speeds. These will of course be different for every CPU, and for different motherboard models and settings. My BIOS was set to 1.35v adaptive for CPU voltage. 

[John_PC]

On 3/7/2021 at 11:42 PM, AnomalyDesign said:

So the loud pump was a stupid design choice by cooler master, but fortunately my stupidly simple fix seems to work great! Hopefully the attached pic makes it obvious what I did, but here are the steps. 

1. Take a SATA power extension cable, or splitter, and cut all but the 12v wire (typically yellow if you're using "ketchup and mustard" wires)
2. Connect the 5v (red) wire from the male plug to the ground (black) wire of the female plug. You can cut away and/or tape off the unused wires you cut earlier. 

And... that's it! Just put your new adapter between the cooler master cables and your power supply. The way the cooler master cables are designed, the pump is just connected to the 12v and ground wires from a sata power port. With this adapter it will instead connect to 12v and 5v, meaning only the difference of 7v is driving the pump. At this lower voltage, the pump is MUCH less annoying. It's still audible, but at a much lower volume and pitch.

 

A few important notes: this assumes you already have the radiator fans hooked up another way, like through a fan hub/splitter, or directly to your motherboard fan headers. You should do this anyway, as there's no need to run them at full speed constantly. If you plug them in to the CM cable with this adapter, they will be stuck running at 7v, which will hurt performance. The lower pump speed on the other hand only shows MAYBE a 1 to 2 degree C difference on the intense stress tests I've run. 

 

I wouldn't bother plugging in the PWM cable header on the Cooler Master cable if you do this modification. It doesn't really matter, as the motherboard can't control the pump speed anyway, and I'm not sure why they bothered to include it. So the very simple setup is:

Pump -> Cooler Master Cable -> this adapter

Nothing else should be plugged into that cooler master cable other than the pump.

 

On that note, it should go without saying, but DO NOT plug any other devices into this adapter besides the pump. Certainly no SATA drives etc. I can't begin to imagine what sort of disasters would be possible.

 

Hopefully this is a help to anyone else annoyed by the pump sound when theirs arrives. It's certainly worth a try, as you only need a ~$2 cable that you might already have, no real tools, and doesn't require any modifications to the cooler parts nor your PC.

 

As always, be careful, and ask questions if you're unsure about any part of modifications like this. This is working well on my system, but I can't make guarantees that it couldn't potentially cause damage etc. etc.

I don't understand. The pump doesn't have a 4 pin cable to a motherboard header ?

Why would you use the SATA cable to power up the pump ?

[AnomalyDesign]

5 hours ago, John_PC said:

I don't understand. The pump doesn't have a 4 pin cable to a motherboard header ?

Why would you use the SATA cable to power up the pump ?

No the pump doesn't have a standard 4 pin connector for power, otherwise this wouldn't be a problem. It takes 12v directly from a SATA power connection (as do the fans, if you connect everything according to the instructions).

 

The three included fans do have standard 4 pin PWM fan connectors, and the pump has a non standard connector. All of those plug into an included splitter that gets 12v power from a sata power connector from your power supply. There IS a 4 pin PWM connector from that adapter cable that you're supposed to connect to the motherboard, but that is only for the MB to sense the pump speed. It doesn't provide power or control to the fans or pump (you can tell because it only has two wires). I leave that disconnected to avoid potential grounding issues given the nature of my mod.

 

So if you wanted the cleanest possible way to go about this, you could make an adapter, or splice cables in order to plug the pump directly into a motherboard header. That would require tracking down a matching connector for the non standard one on the pump,  or else cutting that non standard connector off. I might have done that except my Mobo's pump header is already taken by my GPU loop. 

 

So using the included cabling is just the easiest way to go about it, as it doesn't require modifying any of the cooler master cables, just splicing one wire on a cheap (or free) common SATA power extension/splitter, and the resulting 7v seems to be a good compromise of noise and performance.

[John_PC]

20 minutes ago, AnomalyDesign said:

No the pump doesn't have a standard 4 pin connector for power, otherwise this wouldn't be a problem. It takes 12v directly from a SATA power connection (as do the fans, if you connect everything according to the instructions).

 

The three included fans do have standard 4 pin PWM fan connectors, and the pump has a non standard connector. All of those plug into an included splitter that gets 12v power from a sata power connector from your power supply. There IS a 4 pin PWM connector from that adapter cable that you're supposed to connect to the motherboard, but that is only for the MB to sense the pump speed. It doesn't provide power or control to the fans or pump (you can tell because it only has two wires). I leave that disconnected to avoid potential grounding issues given the nature of my mod.

 

So if you wanted the cleanest possible way to go about this, you could make an adapter, or splice cables in order to plug the pump directly into a motherboard header. That would require tracking down a matching connector for the non standard one on the pump,  or else cutting that non standard connector off. I might have done that except my Mobo's pump header is already taken by my GPU loop. 

 

So using the included cabling is just the easiest way to go about it, as it doesn't require modifying any of the cooler master cables, just splicing one wire on a cheap (or free) common SATA power extension/splitter, and the resulting 7v seems to be a good compromise of noise and performance.

Thanks, I understand fully .

I have to say though, will try to regulate the pump through a fan connector on the motherboard (I have a few - and at least 1 free FAN connector on the board - which I can controle as a DC pump from Bios with a user defined curve  - motherboard is MSI MEG Unify Z490) . Indeed, I will have to cut he wires and solder all four (Power + Tacho) to a 4 pin cable witht a male FAN connector to plug into the motherboard. 

 

This way, I hope I will be able to controle the pump from Bios with a custome curve : I will avoid pump noise for low CPU usage, but still having full pump speed for heavy CPU loads.

If it will work I will post it here ...

 

Obvioulsy , the 3 fans of the radiator will be plugged into the motherboard - same controlled from Bios with a curve depending on CPU temp

[AnomalyDesign]

8 hours ago, John_PC said:

Thanks, I understand fully .

I have to say though, will try to regulate the pump through a fan connector on the motherboard (I have a few - and at least 1 free FAN connector on the board - which I can controle as a DC pump from Bios with a user defined curve  - motherboard is MSI MEG Unify Z490) . Indeed, I will have to cut he wires and solder all four (Power + Tacho) to a 4 pin cable witht a male FAN connector to plug into the motherboard. 

 

This way, I hope I will be able to controle the pump from Bios with a custome curve : I will avoid pump noise for low CPU usage, but still having full pump speed for heavy CPU loads.

If it will work I will post it here ...

 

Obvioulsy , the 3 fans of the radiator will be plugged into the motherboard - same controlled from Bios with a curve depending on CPU temp

Let us know how it goes. I also use a z490 unify, and have been really happy with it. One thought, though, is that in my custom loop cooling experience there's not much reason to increase or decrease the pump speed based on usage the way you do with fans. I always just run my pumps at a constant speed.

 

Setting a fan curve for your radiator fans is a good idea, but is very different for this cooler than normal. For instance, the CPU temp reading can be very cool (even sub ambient) yet the cooler might still be having to deal with hundreds of watts of heat due to the TEC. If you're planning to use Cryo or Unregulated mode, the fans need to be at a fairly high minimum speed, even at low temps, and the curve needs to be VERY aggressive. It should definitely be at 100 percent fan speed by about 40c, for instance, because at that point the TEC is being overwhelmed, and you have thermal runaway. 

 

With the LED readout on the unify, you can easily monitor what the idle cpu temp with cryo mode on is (about 14c usually for me). I'd recommend having the fan curve jump immediately higher just a few degrees above that temp.

 

I set mine with very fast time intervals to increase fan speed, and extremely long intervals to decrease it, as the heat output can be sudden and extreme from the TEC when the CPU is pushed (and again, this heat is not necessarily fully reflected by cpu temp). I assume these considerations are why CM designed it to just run full speed all the time. 

[John_PC]

14 hours ago, AnomalyDesign said:

Let us know how it goes. I also use a z490 unify, and have been really happy with it. One thought, though, is that in my custom loop cooling experience there's not much reason to increase or decrease the pump speed based on usage the way you do with fans. I always just run my pumps at a constant speed.

 

Setting a fan curve for your radiator fans is a good idea, but is very different for this cooler than normal. For instance, the CPU temp reading can be very cool (even sub ambient) yet the cooler might still be having to deal with hundreds of watts of heat due to the TEC. If you're planning to use Cryo or Unregulated mode, the fans need to be at a fairly high minimum speed, even at low temps, and the curve needs to be VERY aggressive. It should definitely be at 100 percent fan speed by about 40c, for instance, because at that point the TEC is being overwhelmed, and you have thermal runaway. 

 

With the LED readout on the unify, you can easily monitor what the idle cpu temp with cryo mode on is (about 14c usually for me). I'd recommend having the fan curve jump immediately higher just a few degrees above that temp.

 

I set mine with very fast time intervals to increase fan speed, and extremely long intervals to decrease it, as the heat output can be sudden and extreme from the TEC when the CPU is pushed (and again, this heat is not necessarily fully reflected by cpu temp). I assume these considerations are why CM designed it to just run full speed all the time. 

You are perfectly right again.

I mean there should be a complete different curve for the pump for the 3 different settings of the Cryo : Standby , Cryo , or unregulated. 

 

On the other hand , to regulate the speed of the pump according to the load ( CPU temp) is for example what AIO's are doing : I do have for the moment Kraken x73 AIO 360mm. There is a software which comes with it , and I can say the pump speed does have a curve to be set , speed of the pump is min 1500 - 2800 max. And I did test it like if I keep the pump speed low on full CPU load, the CPU temp is much higher , that means for high load you need high pump speed.

 

On my future system (i9- 10900kF and Cryo ML360 are on the way  - replacing i7-10700k direct die cooling + Kraken x73 360mm AIO) , I am thinking on this scenario:

- in the Bios I will keep low speeds for booting safely (when booting Cryo is not on, and you want to avoid the initial load to lead to high CPU temp given the fact that the Cryo ML360 cooling capability is very low without Cryo on)

- the cooling software will be set all the time to Cryo on - the latest saftware can remember the last setting - it will go to cryo on by itself after booting in Windows

- with a delay of , let's say 30 sec (after Cryo cooled down already the CPU), XTU will apply programatically the OC profile (can be done, I've done it before using Windows Task Scheduler).

- the ML360 Cryo pump and fans will both have a curve speed according to the temperatures of the CPU on "Cryo On" setting only

- I will replace the original Cooler Master Fans with 3 x 120 Noctua NF-F12 iPPC 3000 PWM fans (I have them already on Kraken AIO) - much better fans (3000 RPM max !!)

- I will either use the CPU delidded and direct die / or delidded + liquid metal + Copper IHS 

 

This way I hope to enjoy a solid OC for 24/7 use.

With my actual setup (i7-10700KF direct die cooling - Kraken x73 360mm AIO with Noctua 3000rpm fans) I am runnig a stable OC like  : 5.3 Ghz 1-2 cores , 5.2Ghz 2-7 cores , 5.1 Ghz 8 cores.  But I really like CPU speed , that's why I am going to try the Cryo project. 

 

 

[John_PC]

On 5/10/2021 at 6:51 AM, AnomalyDesign said:

Let us know how it goes. I also use a z490 unify, and have been really happy with it. One thought, though, is that in my custom loop cooling experience there's not much reason to increase or decrease the pump speed based on usage the way you do with fans. I always just run my pumps at a constant speed.

 

Setting a fan curve for your radiator fans is a good idea, but is very different for this cooler than normal. For instance, the CPU temp reading can be very cool (even sub ambient) yet the cooler might still be having to deal with hundreds of watts of heat due to the TEC. If you're planning to use Cryo or Unregulated mode, the fans need to be at a fairly high minimum speed, even at low temps, and the curve needs to be VERY aggressive. It should definitely be at 100 percent fan speed by about 40c, for instance, because at that point the TEC is being overwhelmed, and you have thermal runaway. 

 

With the LED readout on the unify, you can easily monitor what the idle cpu temp with cryo mode on is (about 14c usually for me). I'd recommend having the fan curve jump immediately higher just a few degrees above that temp.

 

I set mine with very fast time intervals to increase fan speed, and extremely long intervals to decrease it, as the heat output can be sudden and extreme from the TEC when the CPU is pushed (and again, this heat is not necessarily fully reflected by cpu temp). I assume these considerations are why CM designed it to just run full speed all the time. 

Ok , so I've got the i9-10900KF first , the ML360 Cryo it's still on the way, not delivered yet.

So , I've delidded the i9 , fitted on the Unify, tested to see how far it goes.

I've achived the following OC : 5.5Ghz 1-3 cores / 5.4Ghz 4-9cores / 5.2Ghz all 10 cores. Which is, pretty solid.

 

Now, I am wondering given the results of my afore mentioned stable OC (5.5Ghz on light loads, 5.4Ghz on average and 5.2Ghz on all cores for heavy loads) is a better option compared to what would I get with the i9 / Cryo combo . I mean , I know I would get a higher speed for idle and moderate loads and games , but lower speeds for intensive loads (basically anything over 200W CPU - playing games is already hitting the 200W for e.g.). 

 

I know you are runnig the Cryo as we speak . 

Do you think it is worth for me to change for Cryo ?

 

 

[AnomalyDesign]

18 minutes ago, John_PC said:

Ok , so I've got the i9-10900KF first , the ML360 Cryo it's still on the way, not delivered yet.

So , I've delidded the i9 , fitted on the Unify, tested to see how far it goes.

I've achived the following OC : 5.5Ghz 1-3 cores / 5.4Ghz 4-9cores / 5.2Ghz all 10 cores. Which is, pretty solid.

 

Now, I am wondering given the results of my afore mentioned stable OC (5.5Ghz on light loads, 5.4Ghz on average and 5.2Ghz on all cores for heavy loads) is a better option compared to what would I get with the i9 / Cryo combo . I mean , I know I would get a higher speed for idle and moderate loads and games , but lower speeds for intensive loads (basically anything over 200W CPU - playing games is already hitting the 200W for e.g.). 

 

I know you are runnig the Cryo as we speak . 

Do you think it is worth for me to change for Cryo ?

 

 

I really don't think it's worth it, personally. The extra 1-200mhz is fun to see, but does it really matter? In a theoretical workload that is completely ideal, you'd see less than a 2% improvement. And that slight occasional improvement is going to cost you between 5 and 10% loss on all core loads, as you've surmised (when you're more likely to notice a small improvement, as it could save you minutes or hours on long renders). And that doesn't even consider the extra 200w of power you're paying for to run the cryo with any type of load, on top of the cost of the unit itself. 

 

I like my cryo cooler, and I do run it daily (24/7 on standby at the moment. I can't believe how much money a 2080ti can make in its idle time). It's fun to tweak, and a one of a kind item. But I definitely would not have paid my own money for it, and even considered spending out of pocket to swap it for a traditional custom loop solution to help with all core loads. But by turning the voltages down for each speed step as low as possible, I can get 4.8ghz in extended AVX workloads, which I can live with.

 

With your current cooler you can try limiting your CPU's long term power limit to 170w or so, and see what kind of all core speeds you can maintain during stress tests, and decide from there if that's okay with you.

[John_PC]

On 5/12/2021 at 11:00 PM, AnomalyDesign said:

I really don't think it's worth it, personally. The extra 1-200mhz is fun to see, but does it really matter? In a theoretical workload that is completely ideal, you'd see less than a 2% improvement. And that slight occasional improvement is going to cost you between 5 and 10% loss on all core loads, as you've surmised (when you're more likely to notice a small improvement, as it could save you minutes or hours on long renders). And that doesn't even consider the extra 200w of power you're paying for to run the cryo with any type of load, on top of the cost of the unit itself. 

 

I like my cryo cooler, and I do run it daily (24/7 on standby at the moment. I can't believe how much money a 2080ti can make in its idle time). It's fun to tweak, and a one of a kind item. But I definitely would not have paid my own money for it, and even considered spending out of pocket to swap it for a traditional custom loop solution to help with all core loads. But by turning the voltages down for each speed step as low as possible, I can get 4.8ghz in extended AVX workloads, which I can live with.

 

With your current cooler you can try limiting your CPU's long term power limit to 170w or so, and see what kind of all core speeds you can maintain during stress tests, and decide from there if that's okay with you.

Ok, i've got my Cryo cooler , did set it up.

 

Conclusions comparing :

A: i9-10900kf - delidded - direct die cooling - 360mm AIO Kraken

B: i9-10900kf - delidded  / liquid metal applied / copper custom IHS  - ML 360 Cryo cooler

 

First of all, the Cryo cooler cannot be fitted with the i9 delidded as direct die cooling (the height of the CPU is too low - doesnt touch the copper plate of the cooler ..) . So you need a CPU with IHS.

 

On configuration A, I was able to OC 5.5Ghz/5.4Ghz  (-1 AVX2), but got sometimes WHEA errors in HWInfo , without BSOD  - so did run it at OC 5.4Ghz / 5.3Ghz   -1AVX2 , 1.415V core voltage.  Temperatures never exceed 80deg on 100% all cores CPU  extreme stress tests ( like Prime95 or Linpack  - CPU on 365W) / 35deg idle / 74deg Cinebench R20

 

On configurations B (Cryo mode) the most stable OC settings were those you've posted above, but -1AVX2 (many thanks for that !) . So , overall speed gain 100Mhz ... Most of the time speed is on 5.4Ghz on normal usage. The 5.6Ghz speed is very rarely seen, very briefly. Yes , I was able to get higher single score benchmark . But the all core tests were indeed dissapointing : low speeds , very high temperatures . For e.g. running 3DMark TimeSpy I hit even 100deg with one of the CPU cores .... when I've forgotten to set the CPU power limit to 170 W ,  never saw these kind of temperatures before ...

Also , I had to set the core voltage to 1.48V - I don't feel very confortable seeing this voltage applied ... even though the CPU temps are really low indeed : Cryo cooler is around 12deg , CPU cores 17-25deg idle . 

Also , on every PC start, I have to manually go to XTU to apply OC profile. (Cryo is applied by itself).

Trying to set as little as 2 cores to 5.7Ghz on Cryo mode gave me crashes ....

And, I cannot run my RAM at 4266Mhz anymore , I had to go wih 4000Mhz.

On the good side, I was able to overclock my ring speed to 5Ghz ; before the MSI Unify was not able to get it stable more than 4.7Ghz

 

 

All these considered , yes , after playing 2 days with the Cryo , I already miss the solid OC on all cores I've had before with the direct die CPU cooling ...

So the end of the journey I think it will be me going back to direct die cooling and setting up a gaming PC for my son with the Cryo + i7-10700kf. On gaming, speeds with Cryo mode are kind of 5.4Ghz - which is good.

 

By the way, I didn't yet change the Cryo pump to be powered through a fan PWM connector, I'll do it next days.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[AnomalyDesign]

On 5/19/2021 at 6:39 PM, John_PC said:

Ok, i've got my Cryo cooler , did set it up.

 

Conclusions comparing :

A: i9-10900kf - delidded - direct die cooling - 360mm AIO Kraken

B: i9-10900kf - delidded  / liquid metal applied / copper custom IHS  - ML 360 Cryo cooler

 

First of all, the Cryo cooler cannot be fitted with the i9 delidded as direct die cooling (the height of the CPU is too low - doesnt touch the copper plate of the cooler ..) . So you need a CPU with IHS.

 

On configuration A, I was able to OC 5.5Ghz/5.4Ghz  (-1 AVX2), but got sometimes WHEA errors in HWInfo , without BSOD  - so did run it at OC 5.4Ghz / 5.3Ghz   -1AVX2 , 1.415V core voltage.  Temperatures never exceed 80deg on 100% all cores CPU  extreme stress tests ( like Prime95 or Linpack  - CPU on 365W) / 35deg idle / 74deg Cinebench R20

 

On configurations B (Cryo mode) the most stable OC settings were those you've posted above, but -1AVX2 (many thanks for that !) . So , overall speed gain 100Mhz ... Most of the time speed is on 5.4Ghz on normal usage. The 5.6Ghz speed is very rarely seen, very briefly. Yes , I was able to get higher single score benchmark . But the all core tests were indeed dissapointing : low speeds , very high temperatures . For e.g. running 3DMark TimeSpy I hit even 100deg with one of the CPU cores .... when I've forgotten to set the CPU power limit to 170 W ,  never saw these kind of temperatures before ...

Also , I had to set the core voltage to 1.48V - I don't feel very confortable seeing this voltage applied ... even though the CPU temps are really low indeed : Cryo cooler is around 12deg , CPU cores 17-25deg idle . 

Also , on every PC start, I have to manually go to XTU to apply OC profile. (Cryo is applied by itself).

Trying to set as little as 2 cores to 5.7Ghz on Cryo mode gave me crashes ....

And, I cannot run my RAM at 4266Mhz anymore , I had to go wih 4000Mhz.

On the good side, I was able to overclock my ring speed to 5Ghz ; before the MSI Unify was not able to get it stable more than 4.7Ghz

 

 

All these considered , yes , after playing 2 days with the Cryo , I already miss the solid OC on all cores I've had before with the direct die CPU cooling ...

So the end of the journey I think it will be me going back to direct die cooling and setting up a gaming PC for my son with the Cryo + i7-10700kf. On gaming, speeds with Cryo mode are kind of 5.4Ghz - which is good.

 

By the way, I didn't yet change the Cryo pump to be powered through a fan PWM connector, I'll do it next days.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the detailed info! Lots of good comparisons I've been curious about, not having a standard aio myself.

 

One thing that caught my eye is using liquid metal between the delidded chip and the IHS with the cryo. I think I remember liquid metal being mentioned as a bad combination with cryo cooling, but I may be mistaken. I haven't used liquid metal myself, so I'm uncertain, but thought it worth mentioning. 

[John_PC]

15 hours ago, AnomalyDesign said:

Thanks for the detailed info! Lots of good comparisons I've been curious about, not having a standard aio myself.

 

One thing that caught my eye is using liquid metal between the delidded chip and the IHS with the cryo. I think I remember liquid metal being mentioned as a bad combination with cryo cooling, but I may be mistaken. I haven't used liquid metal myself, so I'm uncertain, but thought it worth mentioning. 

I've done the modification of the Cryo Pump power and speed to be fitted into a single FAN header.

I can say is a total success !!

 

I can now set the speed of the AIO Cryo pump on DC fan with a curve from Bios.

I am attaching the HWInfo screenshot after startup and OC applied. You can see the speed of the AIO pump - will be between 3400 - 5700 RPM, depending on CPU temp.

 

Also, some Overclockers were complaining about the amount of settings you have to apply manually with the Cryo ( the Cryo software and XTU OC profile) on every start.

I managed to apply both automatically on startup (or after Hibernate):

 - Cryo lately has a setting to remember the last state (always for me on "Cryo on")

 - PC is starting with a low speed and specs from Bios (to have a nice Windows start without crash) , than I have a Scheduled Task which will apply XTU profile automatically after 30 sec - enough time to the CPU to be cooled down by Cryo to max 25 deg.

 

So , I am enjoying the Cryo OC 24/7 this way - without having to manually set anything on startup.

 

Regarding the liquid metal between delidded CPU and copper IHS : indeed liquid metal is not good for low temperatures . By low temperatures you can consider LN2 kind of temps.

The Conductonaut is ok to apply between 10deg and 140 deg (according to the oficial specs)

So , if you are using the "Cryo mode" which is never below 10 deg is just fine. In my case the CPU Package temperature is never below 16deg. 

Would be probably an issue if you want to go to "unregulated" ... 

 

On the other hand I've never heard of delidded CPU's with copper IHS to be fitted other than liquid metal .... which is far superior to any paste.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[John_PC]

Lately I have a bunch of issues with this Cryo cooler...

It gives me an error :  "Poor termal resistance to ambient, e.g. bad pump or fans . Check installation"

And jumps to "Standby" : if any OC is on , PC will freeze , have to restart.

 

Also , when I try to run "Diagnostics" , it gives me an error : "TEC not connected to cooler" and freeze.

 

Also, max power is 133W . And temps even in "UNregulated" do not go under 5 degrees . (I've seen der8auer's video , Cryo is going to negative temps, and CPU as well , and power is 160W) .

 

 

Did you encounter some of these errors ?