Intel golden sample giveaway winners

[MasakariPLZ]

4 hours ago, AnomalyDesign said:

If you decide to go with a z590 be sure to post how it goes. There's practically no info out there on z590 compatibility with these cryo coolers, so this forum is probably going to become a good resource with a good percentage of 200 of them being here soon. 

Cooler Master's website has motherboards with guaranteed compatibility, and spot checking some of the cheaper ones you can look for BIOS updates to support Intel Cryo Cooling.

[AnomalyDesign]

2 hours ago, MasakariPLZ said:

Cooler Master's website has motherboards with guaranteed compatibility, and spot checking some of the cheaper ones you can look for BIOS updates to support Intel Cryo Cooling.

Do you have a link that shows z590 boards with compatibility? The only list I've found only has z490 boards: https://landing.coolermaster.com/pages/ml360-sub-zero-cryo-clocking/ . Same with EK's cryo cooler, which only has z490 boards on the compatibility list still. 

 

And I also haven't seen any BIOS updates for z590 boards that mention cryo support. For z490 that was a good way to check, as every board with cryo support had to get it via an update (that's how I picked my board, an MSI z490 Unify which is not on CM's official list). With z590 though, they will either support it from the beginning or not at all, so it's unlikely to be part of a BIOS update, or appear in any notes. 

 

That's why I'm suggesting reporting back here. We can guess at which boards will support it, but it would be good to actually have confirmation out there for other people who may be looking. 

[MasakariPLZ]

10 hours ago, AnomalyDesign said:

Do you have a link that shows z590 boards with compatibility? The only list I've found only has z490 boards: https://landing.coolermaster.com/pages/ml360-sub-zero-cryo-clocking/ . Same with EK's cryo cooler, which only has z490 boards on the compatibility list still. 

 

And I also haven't seen any BIOS updates for z590 boards that mention cryo support. For z490 that was a good way to check, as every board with cryo support had to get it via an update (that's how I picked my board, an MSI z490 Unify which is not on CM's official list). With z590 though, they will either support it from the beginning or not at all, so it's unlikely to be part of a BIOS update, or appear in any notes. 

 

That's why I'm suggesting reporting back here. We can guess at which boards will support it, but it would be good to actually have confirmation out there for other people who may be looking. 

Oh I'm an idiot and forgot about Z590s.  

 

I'm going to send an email to ASUS out of curiosity this morning and see what they have to say on it.

[MasakariPLZ]

Asus Support is, uh, kind of promising but he seems a little confused:
 

Quote

I do apologize if you were unable to find sufficient information on this. This cooler is designed for the AMD Socket TR4 platform. Whilst our Z590 series supports Intel's cryo cooling standard, the Cooler Master ML360 is not designed for it. Once motherboard that would support your cooler is the ASUS ROG STRIX X399 which has the Ryzen TR4 socket

I replied sending him a link to the cooler which is clearly Intel only.  Will see what he says.

 

[AnomalyDesign]

Oh my God. It's actually here. And in the full sweet packaging they showed in the video. Looks like we'll be the only ones to ever have LTX2020 swag

[Pudsey The Bear]

31 minutes ago, AnomalyDesign said:

Oh my God. It's actually here. And in the full sweet packaging they showed in the video. Looks like we'll be the only ones to ever have LTX2020 swag

Looks sick, congrats! How's the cryo? 

[AnomalyDesign]

5 hours ago, Pudsey The Bear said:

Looks sick, congrats! How's the cryo? 

So far so good. Only came in an hour ago, so just finished installing it now. (Well mostly. The pump is literally hanging out right now). The pump noise is definitely there. It's not a rattling or whooshing sound, but rather a very particular whining frequency. Similar to small high speed server fans. Unfortunately it just seems to be the nature of the 6000rpm pump design they've gone with. I hope to experiment a bit this weekend on quieting it down by changing the voltage. I can also hear it pulling air bubbles through, which reducing the speed should hopefully help. 

 

As far as the install notes, when you hook everything and up and boot the system for the first time, you first need to wait. You should see a notification that windows is installing a UART device driver. Sometime after that completes, you need to then go to your windows updates and then check under optional updates for device drivers. There should be something in there (silicon power etc, IIRC) which you need to install. After that you can install the Intel cryo cooling software. If you try to install the cryo software without those steps it will yell at you about not having all you cables plugged in. Also be sure NOT to do any overclocking until you have that software running, and avoid running heavy loads, as the cooler is pretty limited before the cryo features are turned on. 

 

Also when first running the cryo software it wanted to run an update but failed repeatedly, resulting in the software not opening at all, so I'd suggest skipping that until you've got everything working. I think there's a direct link to get the software from Intel somewhere, which should be more up to date than the cooler master link in the manual, but I need to find it.EDIT: Download Intel® Cryo Cooling Technology

 

I'll definitely come back with more info once I've had a chance to play with it a bit this weekend, and look forward to hearing about everyone else's setups as they arrive!

Edited March 6, 2021 by AnomalyDesign
Added download link

[Riona1337]

Yeah I just got a shipping notice now

[Xiaz]

On 3/4/2021 at 7:44 PM, Pudsey The Bear said:

Anyone used the cryo yet? How is it? Is it too loud or should I scrap buying a different cooler? Mine comes march 9th

I'm normally sitting around 15c idle with cryo turned on. Only problem I have is the fans on the ML360 run at full speed non-stop and are louder than I care for. Haven't found a way to lower their rpm so far. Bios control does nothing for me.

[DigitalHabit]

1 hour ago, Xiaz said:

I'm normally sitting around 15c idle with cryo turned on. Only problem I have is the fans on the ML360 run at full speed non-stop and are louder than I care for. Haven't found a way to lower their rpm so far. Bios control does nothing for me.

So would you say the fans are more loud than the pump? 

[AnomalyDesign]

4 hours ago, DigitalHabit said:

So would you say the fans are more loud than the pump? 

The fans at full blast are definitely noticeable, but if you plug them into your motherboard or fan hub, they're easy to turn down. The pump is another issue. It has a very clear whine at a particular frequency that makes it stand out (especially after turning down the fans, which make more of a broad white noise). If you're used to working around industrial devices you can probably adapt, but it's something to contend with. I hope to fashion a cheap and easy adapter out of a SATA power extension tomorrow that should hopefully make it quieter.

 

Overall, if you enjoy tinkering, the cryo can be fun to play with. If you just want a reliable and convenient everyday system, and especially if you plan to use it for heavy loads beyond gaming, you'd be better off with a standard 360 aio or custom loop. The golden cpu is nuts though. Already have it at 5.6ghz in games, and still tuning it in.

[DigitalHabit]

20 minutes ago, AnomalyDesign said:

The fans at full blast are definitely noticeable, but if you plug them into your motherboard or fan hub, they're easy to turn down. The pump is another issue. It has a very clear whine at a particular frequency that makes it stand out (especially after turning down the fans, which make more of a broad white noise). If you're used to working around industrial devices you can probably adapt, but it's something to contend with. I hope to fashion a cheap and easy adapter out of a SATA power extension tomorrow that should hopefully make it quieter.

 

Overall, if you enjoy tinkering, the cryo can be fun to play with. If you just want a reliable and convenient everyday system, and especially if you plan to use it for heavy loads beyond gaming, you'd be better off with a standard 360 aio or custom loop. The golden cpu is nuts though. Already have it at 5.6ghz in games, and still tuning it in.

How do you mean by "heavy loads beyond gaming" would not be suitable with the Cryo? I do plan to use my system for 3D animation purposes

[AnomalyDesign]

12 hours ago, DigitalHabit said:

How do you mean by "heavy loads beyond gaming" would not be suitable with the Cryo? I do plan to use my system for 3D animation purposes

The nature of the TEC is such that it can't handle prolonged thermal loads beyond about 200w. If the processor puts out more heat than that, the TEC basically acts as a thermal resistor, and the CPU will quickly overheat.

 

With my setup I've been able to get the full 10 cores to run at 4.8ghz indefinitely by keeping the CPU voltage in check and setting a 190w long duration power limit. At those speeds and power levels the CPU runs in the upper 80s (centigrade). That's good enough for my purposes for the occasions I need to do video renders etc. The cooler has to run at nearly full power the whole time though, drawing an extra 160 watts just for the TEC.

 

A decent 360mm AIO, on the other hand,  should get you easily over 5ghz on all cores with these chips, possibly at a lower temperature, while not drawing that extra 160w. The value of the TEC is really for short bursty tasks, and tasks on just a few threads, gaming being an ideal example.

 

Edit: Forgot to mention that if you plan to use AVX software, you'll definitely want to change coolers. This cooler master one will limit you to around 4.2ghz at best in that scenario, vs around 5ghz for a more typical cooler. So nearly a 20% improvement. 

Edited March 7, 2021 by AnomalyDesign
AVX

[AnomalyDesign]

So the loud pump was a stupid design choice by cooler master, but fortunately my stupidly simple fix seems to work great! Hopefully the attached pic makes it obvious what I did, but here are the steps. 

1. Take a SATA power extension cable, or splitter, and cut all but the 12v wire (typically yellow if you're using "ketchup and mustard" wires)
2. Connect the 5v (red) wire from the male plug to the ground (black) wire of the female plug. You can cut away and/or tape off the unused wires you cut earlier. 

And... that's it! Just put your new adapter between the cooler master cables and your power supply. The way the cooler master cables are designed, the pump is just connected to the 12v and ground wires from a sata power port. With this adapter it will instead connect to 12v and 5v, meaning only the difference of 7v is driving the pump. At this lower voltage, the pump is MUCH less annoying. It's still audible, but at a much lower volume and pitch.

 

A few important notes: this assumes you already have the radiator fans hooked up another way, like through a fan hub/splitter, or directly to your motherboard fan headers. You should do this anyway, as there's no need to run them at full speed constantly. If you plug them in to the CM cable with this adapter, they will be stuck running at 7v, which will hurt performance. The lower pump speed on the other hand only shows MAYBE a 1 to 2 degree C difference on the intense stress tests I've run. 

 

I wouldn't bother plugging in the PWM cable header on the Cooler Master cable if you do this modification. It doesn't really matter, as the motherboard can't control the pump speed anyway, and I'm not sure why they bothered to include it. So the very simple setup is:

Pump -> Cooler Master Cable -> this adapter

Nothing else should be plugged into that cooler master cable other than the pump.

 

On that note, it should go without saying, but DO NOT plug any other devices into this adapter besides the pump. Certainly no SATA drives etc. I can't begin to imagine what sort of disasters would be possible.

 

Hopefully this is a help to anyone else annoyed by the pump sound when theirs arrives. It's certainly worth a try, as you only need a ~$2 cable that you might already have, no real tools, and doesn't require any modifications to the cooler parts nor your PC.

 

As always, be careful, and ask questions if you're unsure about any part of modifications like this. This is working well on my system, but I can't make guarantees that it couldn't potentially cause damage etc. etc.

[-CLASSIFIED-]

congrats OP ! 

[Xiaz]

On 3/7/2021 at 6:42 PM, AnomalyDesign said:

So the loud pump was a stupid design choice by cooler master, but fortunately my stupidly simple fix seems to work great! Hopefully the attached pic makes it obvious what I did, but here are the steps. 

1. Take a SATA power extension cable, or splitter, and cut all but the 12v wire (typically yellow if you're using "ketchup and mustard" wires)
2. Connect the 5v (red) wire from the male plug to the ground (black) wire of the female plug. You can cut away and/or tape off the unused wires you cut earlier. 

And... that's it! Just put your new adapter between the cooler master cables and your power supply. The way the cooler master cables are designed, the pump is just connected to the 12v and ground wires from a sata power port. With this adapter it will instead connect to 12v and 5v, meaning only the difference of 7v is driving the pump. At this lower voltage, the pump is MUCH less annoying. It's still audible, but at a much lower volume and pitch.

 

A few important notes: this assumes you already have the radiator fans hooked up another way, like through a fan hub/splitter, or directly to your motherboard fan headers. You should do this anyway, as there's no need to run them at full speed constantly. If you plug them in to the CM cable with this adapter, they will be stuck running at 7v, which will hurt performance. The lower pump speed on the other hand only shows MAYBE a 1 to 2 degree C difference on the intense stress tests I've run. 

 

I wouldn't bother plugging in the PWM cable header on the Cooler Master cable if you do this modification. It doesn't really matter, as the motherboard can't control the pump speed anyway, and I'm not sure why they bothered to include it. So the very simple setup is:

Pump -> Cooler Master Cable -> this adapter

Nothing else should be plugged into that cooler master cable other than the pump.

 

On that note, it should go without saying, but DO NOT plug any other devices into this adapter besides the pump. Certainly no SATA drives etc. I can't begin to imagine what sort of disasters would be possible.

 

Hopefully this is a help to anyone else annoyed by the pump sound when theirs arrives. It's certainly worth a try, as you only need a ~$2 cable that you might already have, no real tools, and doesn't require any modifications to the cooler parts nor your PC.

 

As always, be careful, and ask questions if you're unsure about any part of modifications like this. This is working well on my system, but I can't make guarantees that it couldn't potentially cause damage etc. etc.

 

I wouldn't remove the PWM cable since that can give you a potential troubleshooting step if the pump starts failing. Bios should also be able to tell you if the pump hits 0 rpm.

[AnomalyDesign]

5 minutes ago, Xiaz said:

 

I wouldn't remove the PWM cable since that can give you a potential troubleshooting step if the pump starts failing. Bios should also be able to tell you if the pump hits 0 rpm.

Oh, you'll know if this pump is failing . But yes that's a potential use generally.

 

Really, I suspect they just included it to account for boards that complain when nothing is plugged into the CPU fan header

[MasakariPLZ]

I apparently got the last one.

[Xiaz]

6 hours ago, AnomalyDesign said:

Oh, you'll know if this pump is failing . But yes that's a potential use generally.

 

Really, I suspect they just included it to account for boards that complain when nothing is plugged into the CPU fan header

On a different note, have you been paying any mind to the power consumption on your cooler? I've not seen mine go above ~145W. Double checking the LTT video, I see their hitting 173W. Trying to figure out where I could be missing something

[JamJarr]

007 reporting in lmao

[AnomalyDesign]

7 hours ago, Xiaz said:

On a different note, have you been paying any mind to the power consumption on your cooler? I've not seen mine go above ~145W. Double checking the LTT video, I see their hitting 173W. Trying to figure out where I could be missing something

Mine has been topping out at 161w. You can use the diagnostic option in the cryo cooling software to get a readout of its full power usage. Some variability on the 12v output might explain some differences, but 145w vs 173w seems like too large a difference for just that. 

 

Edit:

 

You got me curious, so I looked through the reviews I know of. Most max out around 160w, but settle at about 150w for extended unregulated mode. Aside from linus, the only other reviewer I saw get higher than 170w was this one 

 

Edited March 9, 2021 by AnomalyDesign
Updated with review info

[DigitalHabit]

Ok, so has anyone else had issues installing the Intel Cryo-Cooling Technology program? I have everything plugged in, the USB, and the 8 pin power and the SATA power and every time I go to install the program I tells me "Please make sure you have connected the cooler with both USB and power cables before proceeding with the software installation" and only gives me the option to exit the install

[AnomalyDesign]

12 hours ago, DigitalHabit said:

Ok, so has anyone else had issues installing the Intel Cryo-Cooling Technology program? I have everything plugged in, the USB, and the 8 pin power and the SATA power and every time I go to install the program I tells me "Please make sure you have connected the cooler with both USB and power cables before proceeding with the software installation" and only gives me the option to exit the install

Check my post from 3/5 in this thread for setup info, but essentially check these things:

- That your motherboard is updated with a BIOS that supports cryo cooling (only some z490 and z590 boards are compatible)

- Windows should have installed a USB UART device the first time you booted with the cryo cooler connected. Check device manager and make sure there are no unknown devices. 

- Go to your windows updates settings, and make sure you're up to date on major updates, then check under optional updates. One of those should be for something like "Silicon power" device driver. Really it might just be easiest to install all the optional updates. 

 

Once those windows optional updates are done, you should be able to install the cryo software. I'd recommend downloading the latest version directly from Intel rather than the link from Cooler Master (link is in my earlier post). One other tip that's not obvious: on the Cryo Cooler software down on the notification bar, you can set it to remember the cooling mode under the "about" menu. That way it will automatically go into cryo mode on startup without having to select every time (really important if you've got an aggressive overclock).

 

Also if you decide the pump is too loud, try the 7v modification I posted on this thread on 3/7. I've been running that way 24/7 for two weeks since then then, and it's cooling perfectly while being barely audible. One of the included fans on the radiator has a rattle at certain RPMs, but that's its own issue. 

 

Hopefully this helps get you up and running. Be sure to show what you're running when you get it going and tuned in! I mostly copied the XTU 5.6ghz "starter" recipe from the LTT video, but with the voltages turned down to let it run faster in all core loads. It currently tops out at 5.6ghz in very light loads, settles at 5.1 for heavy all core rendering, and fluctuates somewhere in between during games.

[DigitalHabit]

2 hours ago, AnomalyDesign said:

Check my post from 3/5 in this thread for setup info, but essentially check these things:

- That your motherboard is updated with a BIOS that supports cryo cooling (only some z490 and z590 boards are compatible)

- Windows should have installed a USB UART device the first time you booted with the cryo cooler connected. Check device manager and make sure there are no unknown devices. 

- Go to your windows updates settings, and make sure you're up to date on major updates, then check under optional updates. One of those should be for something like "Silicon power" device driver. Really it might just be easiest to install all the optional updates. 

 

Once those windows optional updates are done, you should be able to install the cryo software. I'd recommend downloading the latest version directly from Intel rather than the link from Cooler Master (link is in my earlier post). One other tip that's not obvious: on the Cryo Cooler software down on the notification bar, you can set it to remember the cooling mode under the "about" menu. That way it will automatically go into cryo mode on startup without having to select every time (really important if you've got an aggressive overclock).

 

Also if you decide the pump is too loud, try the 7v modification I posted on this thread on 3/7. I've been running that way 24/7 for two weeks since then then, and it's cooling perfectly while being barely audible. One of the included fans on the radiator has a rattle at certain RPMs, but that's its own issue. 

 

Hopefully this helps get you up and running. Be sure to show what you're running when you get it going and tuned in! I mostly copied the XTU 5.6ghz "starter" recipe from the LTT video, but with the voltages turned down to let it run faster in all core loads. It currently tops out at 5.6ghz in very light loads, settles at 5.1 for heavy all core rendering, and fluctuates somewhere in between during games.

I continued messing around a little bit with it after I posted and wound up finding that the download written in the manual was the issue. I went directly to the Cooler Master website and got a working download from there.

 

I did find the noise to be absolutely abysmal, and since I don't have any spare SATA power cables to try your fix, I couldn't leave it in for now.  I had to put my MSI 240 AIO back in until I get a spare SATA power cable because I really want to try your fix so that I can actually mess around with the Cryo Cooler.  Also, I'm VERY new to overclocking and even having a custom built computer so it's going to be a journey for me.

[MasakariPLZ]

I installed the driver off Silicon Power's website, was a slightly newer one.  Interesting that it is a USB to Serial port device in the end.

 

I didn't find the noise that offensive, but I do a lot of work in server rooms that have fans waaaaaaay more obnoxious than that, and my computer is in a basement with a high ambient noise level to begin with.  I can't hear it in my headphones, so it's fine by me for now.

 

And fun fact - Riot's Vanguard software in Valorant absolutely broke the cooler.  Cryo software lost communication with the device until I uninstalled it.