Posted June 16, 2020 Hello everyone, I hope everyone is safe and Happy. My CMOS battery was dead after 4 years of use so i recently installed a new CMOS battery and everything was running fine. But from last night my PC is going to BIOS (the one where it asks to press F1 to enter BIOS) screen when i try to boot up my system. I figured that my M.2 drive (Bootable) where my OS is installed is not configured in the MOBO settings so i tried to re-configure and restarted the PC and then it's works fine, But whenever i shutdown my PC and try to start it again then i face the same issue where my M.2 drive is not configured in MOBO setting. This problem does not occur if i restart the PC. Also i noticed that whenever i try to boot my case power led and fans led's turn on and off for couple of times (usually 2 times) before coming to BIOS screen where it ask me to press F1 to enter bios setup. Then i configure M.2 SSD and save and exit and again power led turn on and off for two times and PC boots up. I was wondering that is this behavior normal because i have not noticed this earlier. Any help will be highly appreciated and thanks a lot for your time. PC Specs - Mobo - Asus z97-A CPU - Intel i7 4790k Ram - Corsair Vengence 16GB 1600mz (8x2) GPU - Zotac RTX 2060 Super AMP Edition Storage - WD Blue 1TB, Toshiba SSD 128Gb, M.2 NVME 250GB samsung evo plus (2280)- for OS OS - Windows 10 64bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted June 16, 2020 Is the "new" CMOS battery really new? Try out a different one, maybe one from a PC thats working perfectly fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted June 16, 2020 10 minutes ago, Raj Aryan said: Hello everyone, I hope everyone is safe and Happy. My CMOS battery was dead after 4 years of use so i recently installed a new CMOS battery and everything was running fine. But from last night my PC is going to BIOS (the one where it asks to press F1 to enter BIOS) screen when i try to boot up my system. I figured that my M.2 drive (Bootable) where my OS is installed is not configured in the MOBO settings so i tried to re-configure and restarted the PC and then it's works fine, But whenever i shutdown my PC and try to start it again then i face the same issue where my M.2 drive is not configured in MOBO setting. This problem does not occur if i restart the PC. Also i noticed that whenever i try to boot my case power led and fans led's turn on and off for couple of times (usually 2 times) before coming to BIOS screen where it ask me to press F1 to enter bios setup. Then i configure M.2 SSD and save and exit and again power led turn on and off for two times and PC boots up. I was wondering that is this behavior normal because i have not noticed this earlier. Any help will be highly appreciated and thanks a lot for your time. PC Specs - Mobo - Asus z97-A CPU - Intel i7 4790k Ram - Corsair Vengence 16GB 1600mz (8x2) GPU - Zotac RTX 2060 Super AMP Edition Storage - WD Blue 1TB, Toshiba SSD 128Gb, M.2 NVME 250GB samsung evo plus (2280)- for OS OS - Windows 10 64bit If you have a multi-meter, Measure if the CMOS-battery is really giving around 3volts. Then you know for sure that its not the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted June 16, 2020 I know you replaced your cmos recently But clear the cmos and update the bios PC: Motherboard: ASUS B550M TUF-Plus, CPU: Ryzen 3 3100, CPU Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34, GPU: GIGABYTE WindForce GTX1650S, RAM: HyperX Fury RGB 2x8GB 3200 CL16, Case, CoolerMaster MB311L ARGB, Boot Drive: 250GB MX500, Game Drive: WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM HDD. Peripherals: GK61 (Optical Gateron Red) with Mistel White/Orange keycaps, Logitech G102 (Purple), BitWit Ensemble Grey Deskpad. Audio: Logitech G432, Moondrop Starfield, Mic: Razer Siren Mini (White). Phone: Pixel 3a (Purple-ish). Build Log: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted June 16, 2020 Author 8 minutes ago, thewill102 said: Is the "new" CMOS battery really new? Try out a different one, maybe one from a PC thats working perfectly fine. Unfortunately I don't have any other PC around at my place to test this scenario but when i replaced the battery it was working fine. Approximately for two weeks i didn't encounter this problem with new CMOS battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted June 16, 2020 Author 8 minutes ago, Ubuntu is love said: If you have a multi-meter, Measure if the CMOS-battery is really giving around 3volts. Then you know for sure that its not the battery. I don't have multi meter at my place. I will go to some electronic shop will check the Volts once the lock down is over in my area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted June 16, 2020 Author 9 minutes ago, TofuHaroto said: I know you replaced your cmos recently But clear the cmos and update the bios Ok I cleared the CMOS with CMOS jumper (followed the manual) and it seems to be working fine for now but this time boot time was higher then I ever noticed. As i have a M.2 as my bootable device I use to get very quick boot even with fast boot disabled from my BIOS. I have not updated my BIOS for now. I will do that by EOD if the problem still persist. Let's see if CMOS jump is enough to fix the problem or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted June 16, 2020 Just now, Raj Aryan said: Let's see if CMOS jump is enough to fix the problem or not. Good luck PC: Motherboard: ASUS B550M TUF-Plus, CPU: Ryzen 3 3100, CPU Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34, GPU: GIGABYTE WindForce GTX1650S, RAM: HyperX Fury RGB 2x8GB 3200 CL16, Case, CoolerMaster MB311L ARGB, Boot Drive: 250GB MX500, Game Drive: WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM HDD. Peripherals: GK61 (Optical Gateron Red) with Mistel White/Orange keycaps, Logitech G102 (Purple), BitWit Ensemble Grey Deskpad. Audio: Logitech G432, Moondrop Starfield, Mic: Razer Siren Mini (White). Phone: Pixel 3a (Purple-ish). Build Log: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted June 16, 2020 Just an FYI, the power cycling behaviour would have been memory training which is normal for a system where the NVRam has been erased. I would order some new batteries from Amazon, you can get like 8 of them for £5 here in the UK. Main Rig:- Ryzen 7 3800X | Asus ROG Strix X570-F Gaming | 16GB Team Group Dark Pro 3600Mhz | Corsair MP600 1TB PCIe Gen 4 | Sapphire 5700 XT Pulse | Corsair H115i Platinum | WD Black 1TB | WD Green 4TB | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W | Asus TUF GT501 | Samsung C27HG70 1440p 144hz HDR FreeSync 2 | Ubuntu 20.04.2 LTS | Server:- Intel NUC running Server 2019 + Synology DSM218+ with 2 x 4TB Toshiba NAS Ready HDDs (RAID0) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted June 16, 2020 Author 3 hours ago, Master Disaster said: Just an FYI, the power cycling behaviour would have been memory training which is normal for a system where the NVRam has been erased. I would order some new batteries from Amazon, you can get like 8 of them for £5 here in the UK. I have 4 spare CMOS battery which i bought recently in a pack. If my problem persist i will try with another battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted June 17, 2020 Author On 6/16/2020 at 1:52 PM, TofuHaroto said: Good luck OK, I updated my BIOS too but my problem is not solved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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