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Are you sure your waterblock is compatible with your specific card? Before you start ghetto blasting shit off.

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Specific model and block would be appreciated 

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10 minutes ago, arcadeperfect said:

Hi,

 

The fan header in the photos is preventing the waterblock from making contact.
Can anyone recommend the safest way to remove it?

 

Thanks!

IMG_20200507_213343.jpg

IMG_20200507_213326.jpg

We really need to know what card and what block your using. Are you sure its compatible....?

 

If EVERYTHING else is correct, none of the capacitors are in a place that won't support, the VRM and RAM is all identically spaced out and correctly located etc, I wouldn't modify the card, I would dremel that plastic part of the water block a bit, assuming that section doesn't have any water in it which it shouldn't. since there isn't any coldplate in that area.

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Card is Gigabyte RTX 2080 ti  turbo and block is EK vector. Worth noting that the card is reference PCB except with normal fan headers as opposed to the proprietary ribbon cable the founder's eddition came with.

 

However I have to confess that I've rechecked the EK website and the card isn't listed in the compatibility table. That's confusing because I definitely checked. Maybe I was drunk.

 

I got it off Amazon so I could return it and get something else.

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6 minutes ago, LIGISTX said:

We really need to know what card and what block your using. Are you sure its compatible....?

 

If EVERYTHING else is correct, none of the capacitors are in a place that won't support, the VRM and RAM is all identically spaced out and correctly located etc, I wouldn't modify the card, I would dremel that plastic part of the water block a bit, assuming that section doesn't have any water in it which it shouldn't. since there isn't any coldplate in that area.

Sadly it isn't plastic that it's hitting, it's the actual metal of the waterblock.

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2 minutes ago, arcadeperfect said:

Sadly it isn't plastic that it's hitting, it's the actual metal of the waterblock.

Oh, I saw that wrong.... That section of the metal very well may not have any water flow above it tho.... If that is the case, can just dremel that metal down. But if it does, looks like that won't work. You can desolder the fan header..... but, i mean, I am not I would do that, and I have milled pockets and stuff in water blocks to make them fit my cards in the past that were slightly non-reference.

Rig: i7 13700k +Contact Frame - - Asus Z790-P Wifi - - RTX 4080 - - 4x16GB 6000MHz - - Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Crucial P3 2TB NVMe for photo work - - Corsair RM850x - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - Corsair XC8 JTC Edition - - Corsair GPU Full Cover GPU Block - - PTM 7950 - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads externally mounted - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - DellAlienware AW3423DWF 34" -- Logitech Pro X Superlight - - Logitech G710+ - - LTT Northern Lights Deskpad

 

Headphones/amp/dac: Schiit Bifrost Multibit - -  Schiit Lyr 3 - - Fostex TR-X00 - - Sennheiser HD 6xx

 

Homelab/Media Server: Proxmox VE host - - 512 NVMe Samsung 980 RAID Z1 for VM's/Proxmox boot - - Xeon e5 2660 V4- - Supermicro X10SRF-i - - 128 GB ECC 2133 - - 10x8TB WD Red RAID Z2 - - 2x 800 GB SAS SSD’s (1 SLOG, 1 L2Arc) - - 45 HomeLab HL15 15 Drive 4U - - Corsair RM650i - - LSI 9305-16i HBA - - TreuNAS + many other VM’s

 

Unifi UDM Pro in front of full unifi network infrastructure

 

iPhone 17 Pro - - MacBook Air M3

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Just now, LIGISTX said:

Oh, I saw that wrong.... That section of the metal very well may not have any water flow above it tho.... If that is the case, can just dremel that metal down. But if it does, looks like that won't work. You can desolder the fan header..... but, i mean, I am not I would do that, and I have milled pockets and stuff in water blocks to make them fit my cards in the past that were slightly non-reference.

Now that I've discovered my card isn't even officially compatibly (was sure it was) and Amazon accepts returns, I think I'ma play it safe and get a different block.

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