Jump to content

How do I pick a UPS?

Go to solution Solved by vanished,

What should be considered?  A few things:

  • Capacity - obviously a longer runtime is better, but keep in mind that they are only ever intended to give you a few extra minutes so you can shut down safely; it's not so you can ignore the outage and continue playing for hours, so have reasonable expectations.  Capacity (or rather runtime at a certain load) should be stated on the product page, and you'll generally find that a higher output model will last longer, both because it will have a larger battery, and because efficiency improves better than linearly at lower loads, so for example, if it lasts 5 minutes at full load (say, 600 W), you should expect more than 10 minutes at half load (300 W)
  • Power output - referenced above, this is how much power it can actually output.  I tend to think that a unit with a rating similar to your PSU should be good, since you probably have some headroom built into the PSU to begin with and that will "carry over".  With that said, you can always get more, it won't hurt, you'll get more runtime, and in the event you manage to max out your PSU, you won't have to worry about maxing out the UPS.
  • Output type - is it an actual sinewave (often marketed as "PFC", meaning it's compatible with PSUs that do power factor correction, or "pure sinewave"), or is it some crude approximation?  Depending on your PSU, you may or may not be able to withstand using a lower quality approximation.
  • Interactive vs online - Interactive connect you directly to the wall and watch for interruptions, then flip a relay to intervene when needed.  This process takes about 4 ms on average.  These have the advantage of being cheaper and more efficient, but you will not be filtering the power unless you are running from it (generally speaking - some higher end ones do apparently still have "filtration" in place).  Online units rectify and store all the incoming power, then regenerate AC to run on, so you are always passing your power through the UPS.  These are generally considered to be more high-end, but what makes sense for you depends on budget and needs.
  • Quality - obviously some units will be better than others, but this is not something I can really help you judge.  Big names in this space though, for whatever that's worth, are APC, CyberPower, and at the high end, EATON.
  • Number of powered outputs - this seems like a simple thing but you need to consider how many you want, as you generally do not want to combine a UPS with any other sort of surge protector or power strip, as they can interfere and render each other's protections ineffective.

Having R5 2600, 10606gb and a 600watt PSU right now. What UPS should I pick for this build? What all should be considered when buying one?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

When in doubt, just get the most expensive one.

Gaming Rig:

CPU: Ryzen 7 3700x  Cooler: Wraith Prism    RAM: 32gb G.Skill Tridentz RGB 3200mhz     Mobo: Asrock X570 Taichi

Graphics Card: Powercolor Red Devil RX 5700 XT     Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Dark TG     PSU: Corsair RM850x     

Storage: 250gb Samsung 960 EVO, 2TB Seagate Barracuda

 

HTPC/VR Rig:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600     Cooler: Noctua NH-L9a     RAM: 16gb Crucial Ballistix Sport 3200mhz     Mobo: Gigabyte B450 Aorus Pro Wifi ITX

Graphics Card: Powercolor Red Devil RX 580 8gb     Case: Fractal Design Node 202     PSU: Corsair SF600    

Storage: 120gb Kingston A400, 500gb Samsung 860 EVO

 

Streaming Rig:

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600 @ 4ghz OC     Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition    RAM: 8gb Corsair Vengence LPX 2400mhz     Mobo: ASRock B450 Pro4 MATX

Graphics Card: Powercolor Red Dragon RX 570 4gb     Case: Inwin 301 White/Blue     PSU: Evga 450BR    

Storage: 240gb Crucial BX500, 1TB Seagate Barracuda

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Tombola?

Please mark as helpful and informative so my profile looks better.

quote or reply to me if you want me to reply to you.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

A UPS for you to safely turn off your electronics in case of a electric outage. It's not for you to continue to play Fortnite. Get the one that last the longest on battery within your budget.

Intel Xeon E5 1650 v3 @ 3.5GHz 6C:12T / CM212 Evo / Asus X99 Deluxe / 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 3000 Trident-Z / Samsung 850 Pro 256GB / Intel 335 240GB / WD Red 2 & 3TB / Antec 850w / RTX 2070 / Win10 Pro x64

HP Envy X360 15: Intel Core i5 8250U @ 1.6GHz 4C:8T / 8GB DDR4 / Intel UHD620 + Nvidia GeForce MX150 4GB / Intel 120GB SSD / Win10 Pro x64

 

HP Envy x360 BP series Intel 8th gen

AMD ThreadRipper 2!

5820K & 6800K 3-way SLI mobo support list

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

you should research closely because some ups will cause damage with computer power supplies.

if your power supply has an Active-PFC (most do) than some of the cheaper simulated sign wave UPS can cause damages to the power supply. you will need to buy a pure sign wave ups unit or buy a powersupply without an active pfc.

 

see, 

https://www.dougv.com/2010/03/active-pfc-enabled-psus-are-not-compatable-with-most-low-end-ups/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

i forgot the terms that actually stabilize the Volts so its kinda good in its own way. ehm just check the runtime for what load, i mean yours is like 220W i think, im sure its less than 300W because most consumer PC does consume less than 300W.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 8/2/2019 at 4:13 PM, G9XFTW said:

Having R5 2600, 10606gb and a 600watt PSU right now. What UPS should I pick for this build? What all should be considered when buying one?

 

What else are you going to be plugging into it? (Monitors? Speakers? Networking gear? Etc...)

 

How long do you need it to keep your PC online in case of a power outage? (A few minutes? 30 minutes? hours? And at idle? Or under heavy load?)

 

The higher the VA rating, the longer it'll be able to supply power. You also want to make sure the wattage rating is suitable for the load attached to it. (And be sure to leave some headroom too, you don't want to be running a UPS at max capacity. +20% from peak draw would be a good idea, at a minimum.)

Specs: CPU - Intel i7 8700K @ 5GHz | GPU - Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming | Motherboard - ASUS Strix Z370-G WIFI AC | RAM - XPG Gammix DDR4-3000MHz 32GB (2x16GB) | Main Drive - Samsung 850 Evo 500GB M.2 | Other Drives - 7TB/3 Drives | CPU Cooler - Corsair H100i Pro | Case - Fractal Design Define C Mini TG | Power Supply - EVGA G3 850W

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

What should be considered?  A few things:

  • Capacity - obviously a longer runtime is better, but keep in mind that they are only ever intended to give you a few extra minutes so you can shut down safely; it's not so you can ignore the outage and continue playing for hours, so have reasonable expectations.  Capacity (or rather runtime at a certain load) should be stated on the product page, and you'll generally find that a higher output model will last longer, both because it will have a larger battery, and because efficiency improves better than linearly at lower loads, so for example, if it lasts 5 minutes at full load (say, 600 W), you should expect more than 10 minutes at half load (300 W)
  • Power output - referenced above, this is how much power it can actually output.  I tend to think that a unit with a rating similar to your PSU should be good, since you probably have some headroom built into the PSU to begin with and that will "carry over".  With that said, you can always get more, it won't hurt, you'll get more runtime, and in the event you manage to max out your PSU, you won't have to worry about maxing out the UPS.
  • Output type - is it an actual sinewave (often marketed as "PFC", meaning it's compatible with PSUs that do power factor correction, or "pure sinewave"), or is it some crude approximation?  Depending on your PSU, you may or may not be able to withstand using a lower quality approximation.
  • Interactive vs online - Interactive connect you directly to the wall and watch for interruptions, then flip a relay to intervene when needed.  This process takes about 4 ms on average.  These have the advantage of being cheaper and more efficient, but you will not be filtering the power unless you are running from it (generally speaking - some higher end ones do apparently still have "filtration" in place).  Online units rectify and store all the incoming power, then regenerate AC to run on, so you are always passing your power through the UPS.  These are generally considered to be more high-end, but what makes sense for you depends on budget and needs.
  • Quality - obviously some units will be better than others, but this is not something I can really help you judge.  Big names in this space though, for whatever that's worth, are APC, CyberPower, and at the high end, EATON.
  • Number of powered outputs - this seems like a simple thing but you need to consider how many you want, as you generally do not want to combine a UPS with any other sort of surge protector or power strip, as they can interfere and render each other's protections ineffective.

Solve your own audio issues  |  First Steps with RPi 3  |  Humidity & Condensation  |  Sleep & Hibernation  |  Overclocking RAM  |  Making Backups  |  Displays  |  4K / 8K / 16K / etc.  |  Do I need 80+ Platinum?

If you can read this you're using the wrong theme.  You can change it at the bottom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×