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Strange fade-in/fade-out artifacts... GPU or PSU at fault?

Pseudoluna
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Posted (edited)

Hey everyone,

 

I noticed some strange artifacts within games like Witcher 3, AC: Odyssey, MK11 and even WoW. Basically on some fade-in/fade-out effects, for example in WItcher when you walk pass a tree and it fades out as the camera goes through it, it should fade out, but in my case it... pixelates out. Same behavior in AC; in WoW with some water spells (bubbles that splash around chars or npcs) and recently in MK11 when the fight starts, this can be noticed around the hair and faces of characters, not in the cutscenes tho.

 

The performance and temps are more than ok, so I'm wondering if my PSU could be the issue here, since I didn't changed it when I built my new PC and considered that 600W should be enough. Or if the GPU could be at fault... is there a name for this problem? In order to tell the guys at the service what the exact issue is.

 

Few notes:

1. I don't overclock (except the profile for RAM if it counts)

2. GPU driver is the latest as I'm writing this

3. In high load, coil noise can be heard, but I can't pinpoint if the PSU or GPU is making the noise

4. If I were to test with other components... I can't do this. I don't have anyone from where to borrow another GPU or PSU (similar specs), to test what is at fault

 

Specs:

CPU: Intel Core i7-8700

GPU: Nvidia 1070ti

SSD1: Samsung 850 EVO 250GB

SSD2: Samsung 860 EVO 1TB

HDD: Western Digital 1TB Blue

RAM: Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB DDR4 3600MHz CL18 Dual Channel RGB LED

MBD: Asus TUF Z370-PRO GAMING Socket 1151 v2 tuf z370-pro gaming

PSU: Sirtec - High Power Element BRONZE 600W (oldest piece from this list)

 

Thanks in advance!

witcher.png

crop.png

Edited by Pseudoluna
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changing PSU could help but if that's sustained damage then it will stay there.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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Thing is I noticed this since I got the new GPU, but blamed the game (Witcher at that time). Then I noticed in other games as well. Might be a bad card from the start, but I'm a bit skeptical with the PSU as well.

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4 minutes ago, Pseudoluna said:

Thing is I noticed this since I got the new GPU, but blamed the game (Witcher at that time). Then I noticed in other games as well. Might be a bad card from the start, but I'm a bit skeptical with the PSU as well.

old cards arent as vulnerable to bad PSU. I mean, back when CPUs run on 5V, a 0.5V spike means nothing to them. Do that to a modern CPU and it wont be working for long.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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I've added a screenshot from Witcher as the bush I passed through faded away + a zoomed-in crop. Hope it helps determine the issue better.

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6 hours ago, LukeSavenije said:

I'd change the psu... here to help on that part

Thanks. Any recommendation? This is the only part of PC building that I'm not sure of... especially since there are a million manufacturers.

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1 hour ago, Pseudoluna said:

Thanks. Any recommendation? This is the only part of PC building that I'm not sure of... especially since there are a million manufacturers.

even inside them you have good and bad units

 

that's why we have this:

 

Tier b or higher is recommended

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Thanks for the help and advice :). I'll look into it and see if the issue is indeed from the PSU.

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3 minutes ago, Pseudoluna said:

Thanks for the help and advice :). I'll look into it and see if the issue is indeed from the PSU.

even if it isn't... it's worth it to replace

 

for your safety

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2 minutes ago, LukeSavenije said:

even if it isn't... it's worth it to replace

 

for your safety

One more question. Should I go for single or multi rail PSU? Some years ago I remember that the majority recommended the single rail ones. Is this still the case?

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18 minutes ago, Pseudoluna said:

One more question. Should I go for single or multi rail PSU? Some years ago I remember that the majority recommended the single rail ones. Is this still the case?

multi rail is generally better these days

 

but a good single will do too

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