Radiator Suggestions Needed - Low FPI / Low RPM

[cluelessgenius]

soo im pretty good with my pc brand knowledge i know which are good which are bad and which have their own weird little kinks.

 

but in terms of watercooling im an absolute novice

 

the plan is to have 3 x 360 rads in my Lian Li O11D. i already have a 80 mm thick monsta by alphacool in the bottom 

 

now i need suggestions for a 60 mm rad for the top and a 45 mm in the back with low FPI and of good quality. i heard alphacools rads are fine but the copper plugs corrode? anyway i would like to avoid stuff like that.

[Mehmy]

I doubt the copper plugs would corrode if you stick with all copper parts and use some of their premix/concentrate.

 

because if the plugs corrode, so would the blocks and internals of the rads

[Brennan Price]

Honestly, there isn't too much to go wrong with watercooling, just make sure that you do not mix metals, for example if you are using a copper radiator, you will need to use a copper water block and other components need to be the same. Fittings and other parts may only corrode when metals are mixed.

 

What you don't want to do is use, for example, use aluminium blocks or rads with copper or zinc and so on.

 

If you can find a 60mm rad that is the same material as your current rad and other fittings or block etc, you should have no issue.

[cluelessgenius]

38 minutes ago, Mehmy said:

I doubt the copper plugs would corrode if you stick with all copper parts and use some of their premix/concentrate.

 

because if the plugs corrode, so would the blocks and internals of the rads

 

36 minutes ago, Brennan_Price said:

Honestly, there isn't too much to go wrong with watercooling, just make sure that you do not mix metals, for example if you are using a copper radiator, you will need to use a copper water block and other components need to be the same. Fittings and other parts may only corrode when metals are mixed.

 

What you don't want to do is use, for example, use aluminium blocks or rads with copper or zinc and so on.

 

If you can find a 60mm rad that is the same material as your current rad and other fittings or block etc, you should have no issue.

 thanks the corroding part was more just an addon of something ive heard. the main question is which rads are nice an low fpi. most manufacturers dont list the fpi.

 

but to continue on the mixed metal part for just a second. how would you go about if you needed to to combine alu and copper

the plan is to hat the system all copper ...well or like nickel plated i guess and then have 2 quick disconnects lead outside the case to connect to an alu  passive rad tower. now the tower is anodized aluminium but whatever plating might have been in place on the inside is partly damaged now and i thought maybe i could like line it with something on the inside or use something in between the system and the tower like a nickel heatchanger or dual loop radiator or something and the obviously up the automotive antifreeze in the tower any thoughts welcome but again this was actually more about rad recommendations for low fpi 60/45 rads

[Mehmy]

40 minutes ago, cluelessgenius said:

 

 thanks the corroding part was more just an addon of something ive heard. the main question is which rads are nice an low fpi. most manufacturers dont list the fpi.

 

but to continue on the mixed metal part for just a second. how would you go about if you needed to to combine alu and copper

the plan is to hat the system all copper ...well or like nickel plated i guess and then have 2 quick disconnects lead outside the case to connect to an alu  passive rad tower. now the tower is anodized aluminium but whatever plating might have been in place on the inside is partly damaged now and i thought maybe i could like line it with something on the inside or use something in between the system and the tower like a nickel heatchanger or dual loop radiator or something and the obviously up the automotive antifreeze in the tower any thoughts welcome but again this was actually more about rad recommendations for low fpi 60/45 rads

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/4jtat5/best_low_fpi_radiator/

has some suggestions on low FPI rads. 

 

As for mixing metals: Don't if you can avoid it. If you can't, mix a lot of propylene glycol into your liquid (40-50% or more). It'll hurt your cooling performance but will stop corrosion. You're already going with 3 THICK radiators, don't need more surface area

[cluelessgenius]

4 minutes ago, Mehmy said:

As for mixing metals: Don't if you can avoid it. If you can't, mix a lot of propylene glycol into your liquid (40-50% or more). It'll hurt your cooling performance but will stop corrosion. You're already going with 3 THICK radiators, don't need more surface area

well yeah the whole 3 rad thing wasnt the original plan but i already have the tower and dont want to go to waste. 

[Mehmy]

3 minutes ago, cluelessgenius said:

well yeah the whole 3 rad thing wasnt the original plan but i already have the tower and dont want to go to waste. 

As I said, you'll need a ton of propylene. It's how AiO's and cars avoid corrosion. If you haven't bought any of the blocks or rads you can buy EK's aluminium line and use that to save on the propylene

[cluelessgenius]

7 minutes ago, Mehmy said:

 If you haven't bought any of the blocks or rads you can buy EK's aluminium line and use that to save on the propylene

welll.....see...about that...i kinda have :P. 

looked up propylene glycol and although its widely used apparently it still seems weird to me how its boiling point is 104°C and it starts developing flammable gases at 101°C. now those threshholds might move up when mixed with water and i definitly dont plan on letting the tower cook to that degree but ... idk i just havent heard of that combination yet to inhibit corrosion. 

 

also to go back on topic i looked at the thread and sadly the sr2 isnt available anywhere here in a 360 version so i think i might go for the RX360 V3 as my "60" now i only need something for the back.

[Stuttgart]

3 hours ago, cluelessgenius said:

soo im pretty good with my pc brand knowledge i know which are good which are bad and which have their own weird little kinks.

 

but in terms of watercooling im an absolute novice

 

the plan is to have 3 x 360 rads in my Lian Li O11D. i already have a 80 mm thick monsta by alphacool in the bottom 

 

now i need suggestions for a 60 mm rad for the top and a 45 mm in the back with low FPI and of good quality. i heard alphacools rads are fine but the copper plugs corrode? anyway i would like to avoid stuff like that.

Im using a 280 / 60 mm Phobya G-Changer v2 for the top in my build and the radiator is pretty decent. Low FPI and good cooling capabilitys. Nice to know is that Phobya and Alphacool together are one Brand. Thats why the G-Changer is the same as the NexXxos Full Copper UT60 from Alphacool.

[cluelessgenius]

7 minutes ago, Stuttgart said:

Im using a 280 / 60 mm Phobya G-Changer v2 for the top in my build and the radiator is pretty decent. Low FPI and good cooling capabilitys. Nice to know is that Phobya and Alphacool together are one Brand. Thats why the G-Changer is the same as the NexXxos Full Copper UT60 from Alphacool.

thanks. didnt know that but thats again only for the 60 thick. what should i do abuot the <=45?

[Neggy-Z]

Are you planning on hiding the side rad in the rear compartment? Having the rad in the rear compartment and having the fans in the main compartment will limit what rads you can use, it will also limit you to having the ports up the top.

An EK PE or XE series rad won't fit as they are to wide and the front I/O gets in the way, the SE will fit with 1-2mm gap.

 

[cluelessgenius]

2 minutes ago, ShadyHamster said:

Are you planning on hiding the side rad in the rear compartment? Having the rad in the rear compartment and having the fans in the main compartment will limit what rads you can use, it will also limit you to having the ports up the top.

An EK PE or XE series rad won't fit as they are to wide and the front I/O gets in the way, the SE will fit with 1-2mm gap.

 

jop thanks have heard of that already. yes im planning on having the rad in the rear compartment

[Benjeh]

11 hours ago, cluelessgenius said:

soo im pretty good with my pc brand knowledge i know which are good which are bad and which have their own weird little kinks.

 

but in terms of watercooling im an absolute novice

 

the plan is to have 3 x 360 rads in my Lian Li O11D. i already have a 80 mm thick monsta by alphacool in the bottom 

 

now i need suggestions for a 60 mm rad for the top and a 45 mm in the back with low FPI and of good quality. i heard alphacools rads are fine but the copper plugs corrode? anyway i would like to avoid stuff like that.

They don't corrode, they just go a bit weird, honestly nothing to worry about, if you're using premix coolant it will have anti corrosive stuff in it.

[Benjeh]

8 hours ago, cluelessgenius said:

welll.....see...about that...i kinda have :P. 

looked up propylene glycol and although its widely used apparently it still seems weird to me how its boiling point is 104°C and it starts developing flammable gases at 101°C. now those threshholds might move up when mixed with water and i definitly dont plan on letting the tower cook to that degree but ... idk i just havent heard of that combination yet to inhibit corrosion. 

 

also to go back on topic i looked at the thread and sadly the sr2 isnt available anywhere here in a 360 version so i think i might go for the RX360 V3 as my "60" now i only need something for the back.

Do you mean automotive anti freeze? please don't.

[WihGlah]

+1 for the RX 360. I have 3 of them and they are ideally suited to Noctua NF-F12s

 

the Alphacool XT45 is excellent.

 

And stick to distilled water. Everything else is pretty snake oil. 

[Benjeh]

9 minutes ago, WihGlah said:

+1 for the RX 360. I have 3 of them and they are ideally suited to Noctua NF-F12s

 

the Alphacool XT45 is excellent.

 

And stick to distilled water. Everything else is pretty snake oil. 

Disagree, on the snake oil comment, they have biocide, anti corrosion and are normally Ph neutral. Mick at Mayhems (if he's still running it) didn't spend the last like 10 years testing and producing premixes for consumers and companies like EK for it to be snake oil. 

[MaratM]

the main problem with o11-D is it is very limited for the rear rad. the maximum width for the rear rad is 122-123 mm anything wider will not fit wihout help of a dremmel or angle grinder. You can find a list of compatible rads here if you dig deep enough. I've managed to use HWLabs 360 GTX with minor case mods (have a look in the build log)

[Stuttgart]

11 hours ago, Benjeh said:

They don't corrode, they just go a bit weird, honestly nothing to worry about, if you're using premix coolant it will have anti corrosive stuff in it.

I talked via PM to him and hes going to use a Zalman Reservator V1, which is 100% made of Aluminum. I think thats why he is asking those questions.
I already told him NOT TO mix metals, especially copper with Aluminum.

[cluelessgenius]

36 minutes ago, Stuttgart said:

I talked via PM to him and hes going to use a Zalman Reservator V1, which is 100% made of Aluminum. I think thats why he is asking those questions.
I already told him NOT TO mix metals, especially copper with Aluminum.

jesus christ one cant tell you nothing. have you not heard of snitches get stitches.

 

how about some input on how to do it when i ask how to do it instead of just shouting not to do it.

 

also i dont like to be spoken of as if im not right here. 

[cluelessgenius]

1 hour ago, MaratM said:

the main problem with o11-D is it is very limited for the rear rad. the maximum width for the rear rad is 122-123 mm anything wider will not fit wihout help of a dremmel or angle grinder. You can find a list of compatible rads here if you dig deep enough. I've managed to use HWLabs 360 GTX with minor case mods (have a look in the build log)

yeah i heard about that a couple of times now i will be careful not to pick a 140mm wide one. 

10 hours ago, WihGlah said:

+1 for the RX 360. I have 3 of them and they are ideally suited to Noctua NF-F12s

 

the Alphacool XT45 is excellent.

 

And stick to distilled water. Everything else is pretty snake oil. 

yeah i am leaning toward the xt45 for the back. but now that 2 of 3 rads are alphacool im developing a bit of ocd wanting to go ut60 for the top just so everythings ac

[Stuttgart]

3 hours ago, cluelessgenius said:

jesus christ one cant tell you nothing. have you not heard of snitches get stitches.

 

how about some input on how to do it when i ask how to do it instead of just shouting not to do it.

 

also i dont like to be spoken of as if im not right here. 

First of all - calm down.
You never told me not to mention the Tower it in this thread, so i dont see a problem beeing a "snitch".
And there is no input or tutorial when it comes to mixing metals, the only advice is: do not do it. There is no workaround for chemical / physical laws.
But ofc, if you want to, no one will hold you back, go for it. Go let your expensive parts corrode and eventually destroy your Hardware.
But beeing offended because someone tried to explain the problem to you and prevent you from making expensive(!) mistakes is just dumb.


 

[cluelessgenius]

45 minutes ago, Stuttgart said:

First of all - calm down.
You never told me not to mention the Tower it in this thread, so i dont see a problem beeing a "snitch".
And there is no input or tutorial when it comes to mixing metals, the only advice is: do not do it. There is no workaround for chemical / physical laws.
But ofc, if you want to, no one will hold you back, go for it. Go let your expensive parts corrode and eventually destroy your Hardware.
But beeing offended because someone tried to explain the problem to you and prevent you from making expensive(!) mistakes is just dumb.


 

again all im saying is 

when i ask how to do something i want input on how to do something if you have none then dont

now if i ask wether to do something or not obviously its totally valid to tell me not to.

 

i didnt wanna share all that here because that would derail the whole thread.

and talking about me like "i talked to this guys hes gonna blablabla " ...how about you let me explain and not talk for me.

lets agree to disagree not make this into a whole thing. 

Spoiler

hope this helps understanding

 

i only brought up corrosion in this topic originally because Jayz2Cents mentioned the alphacool plug having caused weid reactions with his fluid a while back.

seriously im trying not to get mad but being spoken for like that gets to me. feels like invalidating my own freaking thoughts on a project im doing.

 

btw im contemplating lining the innerts of the tower and with the heat exchanger in between theres no "mixed metal" loop at least not as far as the system is concerned. how about you let me worry about the other loop.

 

can we just get back to low fpi rads now?

[Benjeh]

7 hours ago, Stuttgart said:

I talked via PM to him and hes going to use a Zalman Reservator V1, which is 100% made of Aluminum. I think thats why he is asking those questions.
I already told him NOT TO mix metals, especially copper with Aluminum.

Is that the giant passive rad? Yeah don't mix ally with copper, big no no, but he didn't put that in his post. Also if you're using a cold mid plate like in your last post and its made of steel, then urm i dunno how it would react, personally I don't see why you don't just get a giant 1080mm rad that is also copper.

[MaratM]

7 hours ago, cluelessgenius said:

yeah i heard about that a couple of times now i will be careful not to pick a 140mm wide one. 

140mm is not actual size but more of the type of the rad, most “120mm” rads are not 120mm wide but a few mm wider, an in case of o11-d these few mm’s do make difference

[Benjeh]

9 minutes ago, MaratM said:

140mm is not actual size but more of the type of the rad, most “120mm” rads are not 120mm wide but a few mm wider, an in case of o11-d these few mm’s do make difference

140 or 120 is just the fan mount size, it isn't relative to the physical size like you said, I myself was caught out by this lol, we live and learn eh