Looking for some info for first build

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

Alright, I'm pretty new here but I figured this would be the best place to ask about this stuff.  So, as my about me says, I'm in the process of collecting the bits for my very first ever build.  I've watched several videos on building but I feel forums are a bit better as I can get responses and such to questions.  I know the basics.  Be careful about static, make sure your parts are compatible, don't do a spit take over the PSU, etc.  I used a parts list from the PC Master Race reddit and altered the parts as I felt necessary, using PCPP's filter to try and ensure what I selected would work (such as selecting a CPU that would fit the motherboard, etc).  So I'm fairly confident the parts will all work together once it's all said and done.  What I'm looking for is what is some of the minor stuff I need that aren't listed as parts on PCPP.  Things like cables and the like that I would need to make everything work.  Also, infomation on what I should do once I've been able to get it assembled and turned on.  You know, stuff that seems to never be mentioned in build videos.

My list that I'm planning to use and am acquiring is as follows.  I've made a note of what I do have and what I'm still getting.

Intel - Core i5-7400 3 GHz Quad-Core Processor (Needs bought)

CRYORIG - H7 49 CFM CPU Cooler (Have got)

Gigabyte - GA-B250M-DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard (Have got)

Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory (Will arrive tomorrow)

ADATA - Ultimate SU800 256 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Have got)
Gigabyte - GeForce GT 1030 2 GB Silent Low Profile Video Card (Needs bought)

Deepcool - TESSERACT BF ATX Mid Tower Case (Have got)

EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Have got)

Gigabyte - GC-WB867D-I PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter (Needs bought)

Corsair - CO-9050016-BLED 52.19 CFM 120mm Fans (Needs bought)

Asus - VP228H 21.5" 1920x1080 60 Hz Monitor (Needs bought)

Since I obviously don't have them in my possession, I can not say what will be included in the things listed as needing bought.  I can however say that the SSD came as just the storage unit.  No cables or such.  The case did come with one rear mounted fan and the motherboard came with what looks like two SATA power cables.  The CPU Cooler did come with its own syringe of "Cyrorig CP7 High Density CRYO-Paste" and the parts needed to mount it.  Obviously, the PSU came with its bag of wonderfully intimidatingly and complex looking pile of cords and cables.  I'm also pretty sure that the case fan listing includes two fans instead of one, based on the name and the icon used on PCPP

I haven't listed the really minor things like keyboard or a mouse because even I can take care of that, though info on whether I should plug the USB cord into the ports on motherboard or the ones on the top front of my case would be nice.  I'll also take suggestions on what kind of mice and keyboards I should use.  I also plan to buy and use a Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog joystick and throttle setup for playing flight sims.  I live in the US and my budget is pretty much unlimited except that it is preferred each transaction cost no more than 225 USD so that I don't have to save money from multiple paychecks to get parts.  I basically have a compulsive buying disorder.  Not officially or anything but I find it extremely hard not to spend my entire paycheck before my next one.  I can only stop buying things once I have only barely enough money to make it to pay day.  For example, I got paid 600 dollars last Friday (November 30, 2018) in the early morning.  By the next day, I was left with a little around 150.  Enough to make it (maybe) but now I'm restricted to buying only essentials.  In some cases, like the 400 dollar Christmas gift I'm getting for a friend, it is possible for me to hold back though I'll probably have to end up having my mother or uncle hold the money so that I can't spend it on a whim.  Basically, anything that's recommended I will buy, even if I have to fight my CBD to do it.

Getting back to PC related stuff, you might be able to tell that the power I'm gonna need is much less than what the PSU puts out.  Originally, I had a Core i5-7600k, a MSI GTX 1060 6GB card, and more RAM picked out but I downgraded so I could get the parts faster and then upgrade later since I'm building my own PC because I've grown tired of not being able to really game on my half decade old, unupgradeable (save for the RAM) laptop.  I'm used to getting maybe 20 FPS on War Thunder or World of Tanks on minimum settings so even though my listed build isn't really powerful enough to play the latest games, it is still a massive step up from my 1.6 GHz Dual-Core processor, integrated graphics, and 2 GB of RAM.  I don't need power anyways as the games I plan on using aren't the latest and even 30-40 FPS on things like the S.T.A.L.K.E.R. series, War Thunder, World of Tanks/Warships, Fallout 3 and New Vegas, etc while at middling settings would be good enough for now. I do, however, plan to eventually upgrade back to what I originally chose and possible even beyond that as I plan on eventually getting this thing strong enough to use it for VR.  Save for getting a non-overclockable CPU since I believe the B250M-DS3H does not support it plus I do not feel comfortable with doing that sort of thing yet.  Similar reason to why I'm air cooling instead of watercooling.  I don't trust myself to mess up and dump water all over my stuff.  But I'll get into the stuff when the time comes.

Well, that's it.  A much longer post than I had intended but I do tend to ramble.  In a nutshell, I'm looking for help on the little things I'll need for my first build that aren't listed in my PCPP list and that might not be included in the products I do buy.  Also, infomation on whether what I've chosen is going to work at all, where to plug the cables for in my display, how I should arrange my fans, etc would all be appreciated.  Sorry if this post is a confusing mess as now that I've read the complete thing, I realize I went a little beyond my original intention and into talking and asking about stuff I'd only be doing/need during and after I put this thing together or stuff that isn't really related.  Feel free to ask questions to get more direct answers.

[Mephi00]

You dont need a k processor because your mobo cant oc and i would go for a beefier gpu, like a 1050ti or 1060 6gig, the 3gig version is a terrible value

[GoldenLag]

i hope you got the Motherboard used and is getting the CPU used as they are about 2 years old at this point. they are usually overpriced in stores. 

 

get anything but the gt1030. a used HD 7850 instead. 

 

 

if you were getting everything new id suggest returning the RAM and Mobo to then buy a B450 motherboard with an r3 2200G to pair with it. then add a GPU later on to suit your needs. get 2x4GB kit of 3000mhz Ram

 

or even cheaper route: buy a Dell optiplex with a 4th gen i5 with 8GB of Ram and add an hd 7850 to it.

 

 

your current build contains older parts thathave been surpassed by cheaper and never parts today (unless aquired used for a small penny)

[Cereal5]

37 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

What I'm looking for is what is some of the minor stuff I need that aren't listed as parts on PCPP.  Things like cables and the like that I would need to make everything work.

All cables and other hardware will be included in the corresponding boxes.

 

37 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

Also, infomation on what I should do once I've been able to get it assembled and turned on.  You know, stuff that seems to never be mentioned in build videos.

 

37 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

though info on whether I should plug the USB cord into the ports on motherboard or the ones on the top front of my case would be nice.

I plug into the back, mainly cause it makes my desk cleaner

 

37 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

I live in the US and my budget is pretty much unlimited except that it is preferred each transaction cost no more than 225 USD so that I don't have to save money from multiple paychecks to get parts.

This is a particularly odd request... You should always save and buy everything all together. Otherwise you might buy a CPU, then before you build your computer, new hardware comes out. If you had made a thread asking what to buy before buying anything, we could have recommended something most likely considerably better than this.

 

37 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

I'm used to getting maybe 20 FPS on War Thunder or World of Tanks on minimum settings so even though my listed build isn't really powerful enough to play the latest games, it is still a massive step up from my 1.6 GHz Dual-Core processor, integrated graphics, and 2 GB of RAM.

Yeah, that's all pretty much true. You could buy current gen parts for probably around the same price though because of the way the industry has gone.

 

37 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

but I downgraded so I could get the parts faster and then upgrade later

So... you're pretty much wasting money lol. A GT 1030 has no resale value, like maybe $30 when the stars align.

 

37 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

Save for getting a non-overclockable CPU since I believe the B250M-DS3H does not support it plus I do not feel comfortable with doing that sort of thing yet.  Similar reason to why I'm air cooling instead of watercooling.  I don't trust myself to mess up and dump water all over my stuff.  But I'll get into the stuff when the time comes.

Your reasoning here is a little... interesting. You can buy overclockable hardware now and not overclock it now, and it's way cheaper than buying one thing now that's not overclockable, then buying something else later that is. Same thing for water cooling. All-in-one water coolers are fool proof. Some would argue they're easier to install than some air coolers. It's just another cooling method, not like jumping into a shark tank.

 

 

All in all, if you have an overall budget of "unlimited", anyone can set you up with a good build that is cost efficient and plays any game you want at any resolution you want, at any frame rate you want. You picked a great time to buy parts, you just picked the wrong parts.

 

edit: Ok - that was a little bit of a harsh way to welcome you to the forum lol. Sorry for that. Parts of your build are fine, and I totally understand the impulsive buying, but there are better parts on the market. If you are able to return your motherboard and GPU, I would do that (especially the GPU), then we can help you get something that is still budget oriented but very good in terms of performance. The i5-7400 isn't bad, but there are better options (probably for the same or less money).

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

 

On 12/6/2018 at 3:20 AM, Mephi00 said:

You dont need a k processor because your mobo cant oc

I know that.  I believe I mentioned it in my OP.  That's why I changed CPUs in the first place.  But thank you regardless.

 

On 12/6/2018 at 3:23 AM, GoldenLag said:

i hope you got the Motherboard used and is getting the CPU used as they are about 2 years old at this point. they are usually overpriced in stores. 

I paid 73 bucks for the motherboard, though it is 100 now.  I haven't got the CPU yet however (half the reason I made this post now).

On 12/6/2018 at 3:31 AM, Cereal5 said:

On 12/6/2018 at 3:10 AM, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

What I'm looking for is what is some of the minor stuff I need that aren't listed as parts on PCPP.  Things like cables and the like that I would need to make everything work.

All cables and other hardware will be included in the corresponding boxes.

See, that's what I believed.  However, my SSD was sent as just the drive itself, which confused me.  No SATA cables at all, even though I know it uses 6GB/s SATA.  I had a similar thing happen when I borrowed my cousin-in-law's old gaming tower and he forgot to include any SATA cable.  Hence why I decided to make this post.
 

On 12/6/2018 at 3:31 AM, Cereal5 said:

edit: Ok - that was a little bit of a harsh way to welcome you to the forum lol. Sorry for that. Parts of your build are fine, and I totally understand the impulsive buying, but there are better parts on the market. If you are able to return your motherboard and GPU, I would do that (especially the GPU), then we can help you get something that is still budget oriented but very good in terms of performance. The i5-7400 isn't bad, but there are better options (probably for the same or less money).

It's cool.  I know what I've said could make veteran or even off and on PC builders want to jump through the screen and strangle me while screaming "Why didn't you do XYZ!"

Alright, so after reading everything and thinking it over, this is what I propose.  I don't want to bother with return shipping.  I've done it before and the experience still makes me sweat to this day when I think about all the stress I went through.  So, I am stuck with my listed Mobo and RAM (I will be buying a second stick later to take advantage of dual channel), atleast for this build.  However, if you guys can tell me what CPU and graphics card to buy, I will consider it.  Also, I know some of my listed parts are a few years old.  The way I rationalized buying such old components was worded very badly.  What I probably should've said is that every game I can think I'd be wanting to play (WT/WoT/FO3 and NV, FSX, etc) should be more than satisfied with what I've chosen, atleast according to systemrequirementslab's "Can I Run It".

In addition, while my parts might be slow or outdated or whatnot to most, I don't know if I can stress just how much better my mismashed, craptastic build would be to my current laptop.  I tried playing War Thunder last night just to refresh what it was like.  I never got past 15 FPS (the tail wobble is real if you know what I mean).  Even a game like Fallout 3 from 2008 on the lowest settings possible stutters so bad, I can't even aim properly.  Yeah, my CPU might be 2 years old now but that's 3 years newer than the 1.6GHz Dual-Core that I'm dealing with now and I think I mentioned that it's shutting off by itself after a few hours and I'm pretty sure it's getting ready to tap out.  So I guess the best way to put it is right now, getting it together AFAP means more to me than getting the best possible deal or having the best hardware, even if I'd be wasting money in the long run.  I'm fine with doing it so if it means I can get this thing setup and running by the beginning of February and finally leave my ancient laptop in the past. 

I really do regret not finding out about this forum until after I'd already bought half my build.  However, mistakes were made and the past can't be changed (In my case atleast.  Most intelligent people would probably go through the hassle and time needed to return parts so they could get better ones but clearly I'm not one of those people lol).  Also, I'm still needing to buy my monitor, case fans, and a wireless card which right now adds up to another 168 dollars of stuff I'm needing to buy.  This is also part of the reason I went with such a cheap graphics card.  Right now PCPP is telling me I can get my i5-7400 for 205 dollars off OutletPC and my GT 1030 (almost forgot to mention but it's the 2 GB of GDDR5 version not the DDR4 scam Nvidia is trying to pass off as a GT 1030) for 75 dollars off Amazon and those prices have been pretty steady for the past few months with the GT actually cheaper by the month and the i5-7400 only going up or down by about 10-20 bucks (except one day in August where Newegg Marketplace had it marked up 50).  So if I kept with my current plan, I'd be able to be finished buying stuff by my self set deadline of early February by buying the CPU ($205) with my first pay of Jan and the rest with the second one ($243).  Doesn't leave a lot of room for more expensive stuff with my cap of $250/paycheck.  Also, thinking about Amazon and the like, I think I should mention all my parts are from online.  I live in hicksville (though I do say that with pride, not contempt) and most people around here would look at you like a Martian if you asked them what a graphics card was and if you asked to see their PC, they'd either say they didn't have one, ask what PC means, or show you a system made before the GeForce series of GPUs even existed.

I'd like to leave off with apologizing for...well... me being me lol. I can be stubborn/stupid sometimes and the rationalizations that work for me, don't for most people.  It's a flaw I'm working on.

EDIT:  Quick edit.  I forgot to mention I'm also planning on using my laptop's old HDD in my new system.  The overall idea is to move my games and such onto the SSD to utilize its faster speeds while leaving the HDD to handle Windows 7 and other general storage.  I do plan on getting a much bigger and better HDD like a 1 TB one and then buying and installing Windows 10 on it but in the interest of speed, I'll be doing that after the fact.  Pretty silly but hey.

[GoldenLag]

1 hour ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

paid 73 bucks for the motherboard, though it is 100 now.  I haven't got the CPU yet however (half the reason I made this post now).

When did you buy this? A B250 is not worth 73$ today at all

[Cereal5]

1 hour ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

See, that's what I believed.  However, my SSD was sent as just the drive itself, which confused me.  No SATA cables at all, even though I know it uses 6GB/s SATA.  I had a similar thing happen when I borrowed my cousin-in-law's old gaming tower and he forgot to include any SATA cable.  Hence why I decided to make this post.

SATA cables come with the motherboard, power cables come with the PSU, front panel I/O connectors come with the case.

 

1 hour ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

Alright, so after reading everything and thinking it over, this is what I propose.  I don't want to bother with return shipping.  I've done it before and the experience still makes me sweat to this day when I think about all the stress I went through.  So, I am stuck with my listed Mobo and RAM (I will be buying a second stick later to take advantage of dual channel), atleast for this build.  However, if you guys can tell me what CPU and graphics card to buy, I will consider it.  Also, I know some of my listed parts are a few years old.

Lol. Dual channel RAM is definitely a good idea, I would try to make that your first upgrade after building. Sometimes it's a non-issue, sometimes it can cause some big problems.

 

1 hour ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

Also, I'm still needing to buy my monitor, case fans, and a wireless card which right now adds up to another 168 dollars of stuff I'm needing to buy.  This is also part of the reason I went with such a cheap graphics card.

If you're buying everything over time then shouldn't compromising on some parts to buy expensive on other parts be a non-issue?

 

edit: not sure how often your paychecks are, though it sounds like they're monthly. In that case then that's kind of a long time to wait, so I understand.

 

1 hour ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

Right now PCPP is telling me I can get my i5-7400 for 205 dollars off OutletPC

If you can stretch another $30 or so, I would get an i7-6700. It will last you considerably longer than the i5 (4c/4t chips are quickly becoming hindrances in games). If you can't stretch the extra money, look for an i5-6600/6600K/7600/7600K used on eBay. These should be around or under the $200 mark and will all be better than the 7400 (due to clock speeds). CPUs are almost impossible to kill, and ebay has a fantastic money back guarantee, so there is minimal risk buying that used.

 

1 hour ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

and my GT 1030 (almost forgot to mention but it's the 2 GB of GDDR5 version not the DDR4 scam Nvidia is trying to pass off as a GT 1030) for 75 dollars off Amazon and those prices have been pretty steady for the past few months

Again I ask why money is a problem, but assuming it is, I would try to find a used GTX 760/770/960/970. These should be anywhere from $60-100 depending on the GPU/day, and will all vastly out-perform the GT 1030. Pretty much anything with a GTX on the name within the last 6 years will lol. You can also look for an R9 280/280X/290/290X, or the same cards of the R9 300 series. If you can stretch to about $130-140, you should be able to get an R9 Fury, which would beat all of those cards (great GPU for a great price). This all depends on your comfort level with buying used, but at your current price constrictions, buying new hardware is a pretty bad value.

 

1 hour ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

So if I kept with my current plan, I'd be able to be finished buying stuff by my self set deadline of early February by buying the CPU ($205) with my first pay of Jan and the rest with the second one ($243).  Doesn't leave a lot of room for more expensive stuff with my cap of $250/paycheck.

If you take away nothing else, buy a different GPU. I promise that is the best thing you can do for your current list of parts. The i5 is meh but it still holds it's own. The GT 1030 never did.

 

1 hour ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

most people around here would look at you like a Martian if you asked them what a graphics card was and if you asked to see their PC, they'd either say they didn't have one, ask what PC means, or show you a system made before the GeForce series of GPUs even existed.

I feel you there.

 

1 hour ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

I forgot to mention I'm also planning on using my laptop's old HDD in my new system.  The overall idea is to move my games and such onto the SSD to utilize its faster speeds while leaving the HDD to handle Windows 7 and other general storage.  I do plan on getting a much bigger and better HDD like a 1 TB one and then buying and installing Windows 10 on it but in the interest of speed, I'll be doing that after the fact.  Pretty silly but hey.

Keep windows on the SSD, you can thank me later. 1TB HDDs can be had for $40-45, so you can pick one up at your own leisure (most people recommend WD Blue or Seagate Barracuda).

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

23 minutes ago, GoldenLag said:

When did you buy this? A B250 is not worth 73$ today at all

November 20, 2018 at 11:30 AM from OutletPC
 

22 minutes ago, Cereal5 said:

SATA cables come with the motherboard, power cables come with the PSU, front panel I/O connectors come with the case.

*blinks a few times*  I feel so much like a bottom feeding console peasant right now.  Why I thought the POWER supply didn't come with POWER cables for SATA drives will forever be a mystery to me.

 

26 minutes ago, Cereal5 said:

Lol. Dual channel RAM is definitely a good idea, I would try to make that your first upgrade after building. Sometimes it's a non-issue, sometimes it can cause some big problems.

Yeah, it's probably gonna be the very first thing I do after I get the thing posting (I don't really know what that is but I've heard Linus and others talk about it happening after turning on a PC lol Don't worry about explaining it.  If I need help, you'll be the first to hear.)

 

29 minutes ago, Cereal5 said:

If you can stretch another $30 or so, I would get an i7-6700. It will last you considerably longer than the i5 (4c/4t chips are quickly becoming hindrances in games). If you can't stretch the extra money, look for an i5-6600/6600K/7600/7600K used on eBay. These should be around or under the $200 mark and will all be better than the 7400 (due to clock speeds). CPUs are almost impossible to kill, and ebay has a fantastic money back guarantee, so there is minimal risk buying that used.

Alrighty.  I'll see what I can find then.  I have no problem spending a measy 30 extra if it means it'll last longer.  Plus, I can say I have a i7 CPU trolol

 

32 minutes ago, Cereal5 said:

If you're buying everything over time then shouldn't compromising on some parts to buy expensive on other parts be a non-issue?

 

edit: not sure how often your paychecks are, though it sounds like they're monthly. In that case then that's kind of a long time to wait, so I understand.

 

32 minutes ago, Cereal5 said:

Again I ask why money is a problem

Just for reference, I get paid bi-weekly though usually by the Wednesday after payday (we get paid on Friday), I'm pretty well broke.  Don't start smoking.  It's a terrible money divert from buying computer parts.

It's not really the price or money that's the problem.  I could easily spend an entire paycheck on solely buying a graphics card.  But then I'd have to put off getting those other bits and it'd push me out of my timeframe (All of Dec pay for Xmas gifts, first check of Jan '19 for CPU, and second check of Jan '19 for the rest), which I'm stubbornly clinging to and to my own detriment.

Alright, after a little thought (been 10 minutes since I typed my last sentence) you've convinced me.  I'll try and find something else.  *2 minute Ebay search*  So I found a "SAPPHIRE NITRO R9 Fury 4GB HBM GAMING GRAPHIC CARD TRIPLE FAN GOOD COND" for 130 dollars shipped. #IAmTotallyABottomFeedingConsolePeasent
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SAPPHIRE-NITRO-R9-Fury-4GB-HBM-GAMING-GRAPHIC-CARD-TRIPLE-FAN-GOOD-COND/183562905347?hash=item2abd33a703:g:2dQAAOSwvFpb8xEN:rk:2:pf:0&LH_BIN=1

If you check that link, have a look, and ok it, I'll bookmark it to be bought when I get paid next Friday.  I won't be able to get the money together for my friend's Christmas gift till after Christmas passes anyway (our second Dec check doesn't come till the Friday after Xmas) so I don't think it'll be much of a problem.  Plus he doesn't even know he's getting anything anyway so not like I'm crushing hopes lol

Also, part of the reason I didn't consider any of those other cards is when I selected my parts on PCPP, I filtered results that weren't 4-5 stars and ignored listings that didn't have a price.  None of the seven R9 Fury chipset cards the PCPP says are compatible with the rest of my build have a current price, two of them have zero stars, and only two of them have ever had a price history and that way back in the first couple months of 2017.  That would be why they slipped under my radar.

[GoldenLag]

13 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

November 20, 2018 at 11:30 AM from OutletPC

if you have the option, try finding a used bundle with one of the CPUs the other guy mentioned and a motherboard.

 

then return the motherboard for a refund. B250 boards at that time really arent worth more than 50$ due to newer boards replacing them

[Cereal5]

1 minute ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

Yeah, it's probably gonna be the very first thing I do after I get the thing posting

POST - Power On Self Test. Every computer does it each time it starts up, just to make sure there have been no hardware changes and such and such.

 

2 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

Don't start smoking.  It's a terrible money divert from buying computer parts.

Don't get addicted to computer parts either. It's a terrible money divert from becoming financially independent.

 

6 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

If you check that link, have a look, and ok it, I'll bookmark it to be bought when I get paid next Friday.

It looks good, but I would buy the GPU last so you can test it right away, since eBay's money back guarantee I believe has an expiration date (unless you have another computer to test it in (and when I say test, I mean run Unigine heaven/valley/superposition for a half hour to an hour with settings on ultra, it's a stress test (quick google search and you should find it)))

 

9 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

Also, part of the reason I didn't consider any of those other cards is when I selected my parts on PCPP, I filtered results that weren't 4-5 stars and ignored listings that didn't have a price.  None of the seven R9 Fury chipset cards the PCPP says are compatible with the rest of my build have a current price, two of them have zero stars, and only two of them have ever had a price history and that way back in the first couple months of 2017.  That would be why they slipped under my radar.

PCPP only lists items that are sold new, and by first party sellers. If the item is no longer in stock/produced, it will not have a price. R9 Furies first came out in 2015, and ended production... Idk maybe late 2016? 2017? Either way they're still a beast of a card.

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

7 minutes ago, GoldenLag said:

then return the motherboard for a refund.

I'm really trying to not sound like an ass but I already mentioned I'm stuck with it because I'm not dealing with return shipping.  I know it's just me being lazy but I really don't want the hassle of it all like I had the last time I had to return ship something.  May I ask what in particular makes this board so bad aside from me buying it at a bit higher price and it being older?  Remember, I'm not looking for really modern stuff.  If it gets me by, it's alright.  There's no way it can worse than what I'm dealing with now.

6 minutes ago, Cereal5 said:

Don't get addicted to computer parts either. It's a terrible money divert from becoming financially independent.

Yeah but unlike tobacco, you can resell them at a later date and they don't slowly kill you lol and hey, you never know.  That old motherboard you stopped using years ago might one day be needed by someone like Linus for a video and you can get some of your money back.

 

7 minutes ago, Cereal5 said:

It looks good, but I would buy the GPU last so you can test it right away, since eBay's money back guarantee I believe has an expiration date

I will make sure to do that then.  Oh and it's a 30 day guarantee.

 

8 minutes ago, Cereal5 said:

PCPP only lists items that are sold new, and by first party sellers. If the item is no longer in stock/produced, it will not have a price. R9 Furies first came out in 2015, and ended production... Idk maybe late 2016? 2017? Either way they're still a beast of a card.

I see.  Thanks for that.  You see, this is what happens when a console peasant tries to buy parts for a computer lol (I use console peasant in a comical sense since I do own and have used consoles as my main gaming method for basically my entire life.  Ahh, the days of Resident Evil 2 on the Playstation 1 are fond memories indeed.)

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

I might have paid a little more for some of these parts than I should have but atleast I didn't buy a water cooled i7-8700k with a single 1080 Ti and 64 GB of RAM sitting on a Z370 motherboard all RGB'd out like this one ad I'm watching a video about on Youtube.  Guy wants 6000 for it.  Even I know that's a rip off of epic proportions.

[Cereal5]

14 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

There's no way it can worse than what I'm dealing with now.

Again, I think this is poor logic for justifying a purchase, but you could likely find a cheap Z170 motherboard for about that same price, then you would be able to purchase an overclocking capable CPU. Even if you say "I don't know how to do that"...

 

On 12/6/2018 at 3:31 AM, Cereal5 said:

You can buy overclockable hardware now and not overclock it now, and it's way cheaper than buying one thing now that's not overclockable, then buying something else later that is.

But both the i7-6700 and 7700 are very good, and their i5 counterparts compare decently to their overclocking siblings, so if you're set in your purchase, I wouldn't worry about it too much.

 

14 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

Yeah but unlike tobacco, you can resell them at a later date and they don't slowly kill you lol and hey, you never know.  That old motherboard you stopped using years ago might one day be needed by someone like Linus for a video and you can get some of your money back.

Lol nah, none of his old gaming rigs were X99 based, so I guess I'm stuck with a dead motherboard... And just for comparisons sake, I spent about $900 on GPUs last month, and another $850 this month on a custom water loop. So the only thing I got going for me is it won't slowly kill me, it'll just kill me all at once when my finger slips into the socket on the wall.

 

/s

[GoldenLag]

15 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

I'm really trying to not sound like an ass but I already mentioned I'm stuck with it because I'm not dealing with return shipping.  I know it's just me being lazy but I really don't want the hassle of it all like I had the last time I had to return ship something.  May I ask what in particular makes this board so bad aside from me buying it at a bit higher price and it being older?  Remember, I'm not looking for really modern stuff.  If it gets me by, it's alright.  There's no way it can worse than what I'm dealing with now.

Must have missed that anectdote. Kinda why i had this written before: 

 

35 minutes ago, GoldenLag said:

if you have the option

And its mostly related to getting a better deal. If you dont mind overpaying a bit then thats fine. I just like it when people get as good deal as possible

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

Would it be a problem if for example I completely built this thing and then later on got a better motherboard and moved all the hardware over to it?  I know it's obviously not the best case (which is me just getting over myself lol) but I'm just curious if it'd be possible.

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

1 minute ago, GoldenLag said:

If you dont mind overpaying a bit then thats fine. I just like it when people get as good deal as possible

Which I appreciate very much.  Oh and what I was referring to was this;

 

3 hours ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

Alright, so after reading everything and thinking it over, this is what I propose.  I don't want to bother with return shipping.  I've done it before and the experience still makes me sweat to this day when I think about all the stress I went through.  So, I am stuck with my listed Mobo and RAM

 

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

How does a GeForce GTX 1060 6GB sound?  I've been poking around on ebay and it seems like I might be able to pinch a EVGA one for around 100-200 bucks, maybe even less.

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

So just to clarify, a Z270 is overclock capable right?

The reason I ask is because I believe I can get a ASRock - Z270 Killer SLI/ac ATX LGA1151 Motherboard for a little over a 100 bucks.

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

On 12/7/2018 at 4:41 AM, Cereal5 said:

If you can stretch another $30 or so, I would get an i7-6700.

If I was able to get a i7-7700 for the same price as a i7-6700, would you recommend me getting it?  I do know it's compatible with my MB.

[Cereal5]

On 12/7/2018 at 8:52 AM, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

How does a GeForce GTX 1060 6GB sound?  I've been poking around on ebay and it seems like I might be able to pinch a EVGA one for around 100-200 bucks, maybe even less.

Sounds pretty good.

 

On 12/8/2018 at 8:04 AM, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

So just to clarify, a Z270 is overclock capable right?

The reason I ask is because I believe I can get a ASRock - Z270 Killer SLI/ac ATX LGA1151 Motherboard for a little over a 100 bucks.

Yes. If you get a Z170/Z270 motherboard, you will need a 6700K or 7700K in order to overclock (or a K-sku i5, but we already went over the whole i5 deal (they're also almost as expensive as a 6700/7700)).

 

4 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

If I was able to get a i7-7700 for the same price as a i7-6700, would you recommend me getting it?  I do know it's compatible with my MB.

Yeah, go for it.

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

18 minutes ago, Cereal5 said:

23 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

If I was able to get a i7-7700 for the same price as a i7-6700, would you recommend me getting it?  I do know it's compatible with my MB.

Yeah, go for it.

Ok, I'm going to.  Strangely, I'm finding the 7th gen i7-7700 being sold new for less than the 6th gen i7-6700 used.  Any reason?  Also, little update.  I had to dump the R9 Fury because I'm stuck with my 550W PSU I bought a year ago and it just wouldn't have been able to power all my hardware.  That aside, the Fury was just barely going to be able to fit in my case.  But in the time since I posted about getting the GTX 1060 6GB (I was trying to get you or someone else to notice without having to make a entire new thread but had no luck), I had a guy tell me I should go for a RX 580 or 570 instead of a GTX 1060 6 GB because it's better and can be had for the same price.  Is that a good deal?  I'm sorry if my bouncing back and forth is irritating.  I'm constantly changing my mind, as you can probably tell, and I know it can get annoying (ask my mother).

[Cereal5]

1 minute ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

(I was trying to get you or someone else to notice without having to make a entire new thread but had no luck)

just @ me, like this @GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop

2 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

Strangely, I'm finding the 7th gen i7-7700 being sold new for less than the 6th gen i7-6700 used.  Any reason?

Uh... I don't know. Didn't even know there was still stock of 7700s.

 

3 minutes ago, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

I had a guy tell me I should go for a RX 580 instead of a GTX 1060 6 GB because it's better and can be had for the same price.  Is that a good deal?

They trade blows depending on the game, but most people would agree the 580 is generally faster. There is no difference between the 4GB and 8GB version besides VRAM (unlike the 1060 3GB and 6GB), but I would go with the 8GB version if you can find it for a good price. You shouldn't have any problem getting one for around or under $200 new, or $150 or so used. That should make for a very well rounded system.

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

1 minute ago, Cereal5 said:

just @ me, like this @GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop

I did not know about that feature.  Thanks.  Guess it just shows my newness to forums and this one in particular lol

3 minutes ago, Cereal5 said:

They trade blows depending on the game, but most people would agree the 580 is generally faster. There is no difference between the 4GB and 8GB version besides VRAM (unlike the 1060 3GB and 6GB), but I would go with the 8GB version if you can find it for a good price. You shouldn't have any problem getting one for around or under $200 new, or $150 or so used. That should make for a very well rounded system.

I do know where I can get a "MSI RX 580 ARMOR 8G OC" for about 210.  That a good one?  I don't really trust user reviews anymore because I've seen people give 1 star reviews simply because they don't like the manufacturer or a 5 star one because they were a fanboy.

[Cereal5]

Just now, GuyWhoGamesOnA2011Laptop said:

I do know where I can get a "MSI RX 580 ARMOR 8G OC" for about 210.  That a good one?  I don't really trust user reviews anymore because I've seen people give 1 star reviews simply because they don't like the manufacturer or a 5 star one because they were a fanboy.

Yeah, but if you can get a 1060 6GB for $150 then that's a way better deal. Just depends on if you want new or used, and how much you're willing to spend. If one is more than about $25 cheaper, get that one. If they're close, you can pick over aesthetics, or just get the 580.

[GuyWhoGamedOnAn2011Laptop]

@Cereal5 I've decided to just buy new from well known websites.  That way I won't be getting a rip off product or one that's about to die and this system will probably be lasting me a few years anyway and in that case, both cards I can get for (literally) the same price so I'll probably go with the RX 580.  Plus I'm getting a monitor that supports freesync so I can take advantage of it with my card.  Little question.  I do some video editing from time to time.  Minor stuff and nothing that I need to but just for a bit of fun.  Would that extra 2 GB of VRAM help with that kinda thing?