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techswede

Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 100k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

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19 hours ago, Sphincter said:

I also use these sources...

 

summitracing.com

I've seen so many of those boxes. amazing if you live in cali cus they ship out of Nevada with no tax

rip vic hubbard

 

7 hours ago, GlassBomb said:

Alright. Question. We all know that every engine out there burns oil. But how much is acceptable?

 

How many miles do you have to drive before you need to add a liter/quart of oil?

almost 0. my civic burns almost nothing, my dads Toyota's burn basically nothing.

my moms now sold jetta would burn close to a quart driving 800 miles if it was all highway driving. That car from the factory had a bad block and even after it was re milled it still burned lots of oils.

 

6 hours ago, Real_PhillBert said:

I know GM will replace an engine while under warranty if oil consumption is greater than 1 qt every 1,000 miles. However I would say that this is very extreme. 1Qt at 5k miles would make me uncomfortable. 

GM then will have a lot of 2.7l engines in their small crossovers to fix. they burn oil like no tomorrow.


Good luck, Have fun, Build PC, and have a last gen console for use once a year. I should answer most of the time between 9 to 3 PST

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My Mazda burns about 1/2qt over 5,000 miles at 177K miles which is just superb. My Celica does about 1qt over 5000 miles which is still very good for a high revving 'sports' engine that is unabashedly revved to fuel cut several times per day over that 5000 miles.

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3 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

1qt at about ~8000 miles I’m fine with

 

anything more than that makes me worry. I too agree the manufacturer’s tolerances are way too wide on this. All of them are similar I think (1qt per 1000) 

 

on the plus side if you burn enough oil that you have to keep adding you can in theory run a longer OCI because you always have new oil. Lol

It should be if you burn enough to run out of oil in an oil change interval then it needs to be fixed. I've only done one oil consumption re-ring so far. Most the times we see internal engine issues its for VCM misfires that require a re-ring on one bank of cylinders.

 

I do 3-4k oil changes on all my vehicles. In my civic the last time I did one the reminder was at 70% oil life lol.


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On 2/20/2020 at 1:44 PM, MadyTehWolfie said:

Did you use any of their compounds with a DA? I loved their microfiber drying towels and their foam wash soap for my foam cannon.

I haven't done the exterior at all. I was working exclusively in the interior. What you see in the photo is a car that sees a mechanical car wash because of their underbody wash which gets the salt off the bottom. Once I move out of a snowy area I'm gonna polish the crap out of the swirl marks and use a DA and the products then.

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1 hour ago, Silverdogz said:

I haven't done the exterior at all. I was working exclusively in the interior. What you see in the photo is a car that sees a mechanical car wash because of their underbody wash which gets the salt off the bottom. Once I move out of a snowy area I'm gonna polish the crap out of the swirl marks and use a DA and the products then.

When you do I recommend meguiars compund and polish with hexlogic pads. Get really good results with those products. I also like some of the chemical guys compounds and polishes. Ill be trying different products in the future though right now for simple compund and polish meguiar ultimate compound and polish gives really god results with a wide variety of paint hardness and softness. 


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On medium to hard clear coat I like 'the last cut' and a urofiber cut/polish combo pad, it makes a very effective 'one and done' cut/polish for most cars possible. May need to retouch a few areas for heavier defects. For soft paints I like to use a finishing pad and a gentle compound, I haven't quite settled onto which one just yet.

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47 minutes ago, Sphincter said:

I use chemical guys products as well.  great results once the surface is free of 3000 grit or coarser scratches.

I find their compounds work best on paint that's on the harder side with the pads I use. For softer paint I'm getting good results with the meguiars compound and polish though I'm looking for something to work on soft black paint atm.

30 minutes ago, Bitter said:

On medium to hard clear coat I like 'the last cut' and a urofiber cut/polish combo pad, it makes a very effective 'one and done' cut/polish for most cars possible. May need to retouch a few areas for heavier defects. For soft paints I like to use a finishing pad and a gentle compound, I haven't quite settled onto which one just yet.

I'll have to look into it. ? I'm stealing all your guys ideas for when I detail people's cars. ? As it is I ran out of cars to do as I already did all the ones my immediate family owns. Borrowing someone's car for a few days is tough to do for paint correction takes a long time. Usually my details take anywhere from 12-24 hours to do with paint correction. 


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I want to get back into my car and drive some but I'm an hour flight or a 5 to 6 hour drive away. At least I'm away from my family.

 

I think I hinted to this months ago but never wrote it so here it goes.

Back in January my dad and I decided to take a decent ride in his 1969 Chevy Malibu, it was my 2nd or 3rd time driving the car. despite it having 'powered' brakes it being half drum half disk, it doesn't stop well. we drove about an hour stopped in a little town had lunch and it was a blast to drive down the California coast. On the way back I let my dad drive. We are coming down a long winding hill road, where early in the day to get up there was massive lineups. the group is a little slick from rain and we come around a blind corner to stop cars. A little bit of sliding back and forth ensued and we did stay on the road without hitting anything but we both were a little tense. After we got onto the freeway I took over driving and almost the entire way home we talked about getting 4 wheel disk or at least upgraded brakes to stop what almost happen.

Along the same lines, my civic will need new brakes during summer and I'll probably look at switching to 4 wheel disk given it was an option and the nicer trims had it.


Good luck, Have fun, Build PC, and have a last gen console for use once a year. I should answer most of the time between 9 to 3 PST

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062-1280x853.jpg

045-1280x853.jpg


LTTF Active Threads: Box Box Box - Project CARS & Assetto Corsa Players Club  | The Garage - Car Enthusiast Club

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I got a thing... sorry for the potato quality pics, still on an iPhail 6S (last one with a headphone jack)

IMG_1882.thumb.jpg.d3d4503754efed7f4a28ca45585658e0.jpg

IMG_1885.thumb.jpg.0bf646db973e8650f780b66785ed0e84.jpg

 

I really need to ditch the chromies... and step down to 18's... possibly black plastidip all the chrome badging... 

 

this is the first vehicle I've owned thats not black, white, or silver...  its suuuuper red in real life

 

@bcredeur97 @vinyldash303 @chaozbandit @vetali


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@warmmilk Can I call you whenever I need to borrow your truck?


LTTF Active Threads: Box Box Box - Project CARS & Assetto Corsa Players Club  | The Garage - Car Enthusiast Club

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My cheeky German whip. Will be upgrading to a Cybertruck in a couple of years! All electric makes sense for us for the commute! 

IMG_20191207_104251.jpg


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6 hours ago, warmmilk said:

I got a thing... sorry for the potato quality pics, still on an iPhail 6S (last one with a headphone jack)

Grats. I like how those rams look and drive. I will stick with my old early 2000s shitbox trucks though.

 

I made a purchase yesterday too, got rid of my snap on box because we've had a revolving door with snap on vendors and they charge 5 dollars per payment "courtesy fee" to pay credit online.

 

QWRlAxJ.png

 

Its almost identical to the mopar plum crazy purple


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6 hours ago, chaozbandit said:

@warmmilk Can I call you whenever I need to borrow your truck?

absolutely, anytime... (if any of you give this guy my number I'll kill you) <--threatening russian accent

2 hours ago, vetali said:

Grats. I like how those rams look and drive. I will stick with my old early 2000s shitbox trucks though.

 

I made a purchase yesterday too, got rid of my snap on box because we've had a revolving door with snap on vendors and they charge 5 dollars per payment "courtesy fee" to pay credit online.

 

QWRlAxJ.png

 

Its almost identical to the mopar plum crazy purple

thanks!

 

I dream to have a toolbox someday...  and the mopar crazy purple is the first thing I thought too, haha


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Gentle Typhoon's and Noctua's and Noiseblocker eLoop's

 

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9 hours ago, warmmilk said:

I got a thing... sorry for the potato quality pics, still on an iPhail 6S (last one with a headphone jack)

-snips-

I really need to ditch the chromies... and step down to 18's... possibly black plastidip all the chrome badging... 

 

this is the first vehicle I've owned thats not black, white, or silver...  its suuuuper red in real life

 

@bcredeur97 @vinyldash303 @chaozbandit @vetali

those are fun with a big rear sway bar. ask me how I know


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2 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

those are fun with a big rear sway bar. ask me how I know

hahaahha... I'm good, I don't need to turn my truck into an autox truck... I'm still getting used to taking turns sitting up that high...


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10 hours ago, Retrodex Gaming said:

My cheeky German whip. Will be upgrading to a Cybertruck in a couple of years! All electric makes sense for us for the commute! 

 

 

What is it? 640i/d? Looks good ^^


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3 hours ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

 

What is it? 640i/d? Looks good ^^

640d, stage 1 map at 380bhp on stock parts. Put your foot down and it just f**ks off ? Was a 30th treat haha!


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I'm new here but have been into vehicles and racing my entire life. Thought I would share some pictures and spec's of my current on going project. I have built a couple of drag cars and engines. I really only know how to build 385 series Fords. I use to run 460ford and 429-460ford forum for the longest.

 

Current project: 1984 Ford F150, regular cab, 4x4. It came with a inline 6 cylinder and NP435 manual transmission. I am currently performing a engine and transmission swap.

Engine: light 528cu BBF 680hp680ftlb on 91octane

Transmission: C6, manual valve body, fully rollerized, transbrake (rated for 1,200hp)

Transfer case: Billet aluminum quick change

Gear ratios: 4;30

Tires: 31x10.5r15

I built the engine back in 2015 but started working a new job that kept me away from life and now I regret spending the money. My goal right now is to complete the project so I can get a little something out of it. (Its been a pain working on things since I lost one of my eyes!! I hit my head a lot and have zero depth perception. I use to be able to just look at the head of a bolt and know what size wrench or socket I needed. Fabrication is a lot harder as well, I use to be able to hold something with one hand and figure how big a bracket would need to be!! NOT NO MORE!! LoL

 

I have been working on a throttle pedal bracket for weeks now. I just get so dang frustrated! 

 

 

IMG_2902.jpg

Tcase.jpg

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This is the throttle pedal I have been working on. I'm switching over to a mechanical linkage for safety reasons.

 

 I'm really not into my old hobbies I use to be. I hope to sale all of this stuff, I don't want my wife to be stuck with this if something happens to me. I keep telling myself to just finish the truck and get some enjoyment out of it but I'm having a hard time getting myself out in the shop. We had to sell my Dailey Driver so until I get this thing running I don't have a vehicle! That's unless my wife is off work.

 

IMG_2908.jpg

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This was the first drag car we built. It started life as a 1974 VW Type 4. We built a complete tube chassis, ford 9", 355cu SBC on alky, powerglide Transmission, Ron's Flying Toilet, MSD 6al ignition and full aluminum interior. My brother and I ended up working at the drag strips more than racing the car. (one of two jobs thru college)

 

Back then we had a friend that let us borrow a JD2 tubing bender and I was in college learning how to run Lathes and mills so if we needed anything made I just had to supply the material. 

 

 

IMG_2016.jpg

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Decided to get out an old DSLR camera and figure out how to use it, so I took some pics of the Corolla. There aren't too many good places to take car photos around here, but I think these turned out alright.

 

_MG_3732.thumb.JPG.ba1b58bf6704502401a8e807af2f43ee.JPG

_MG_3721.thumb.JPG.4ee4afa68e675f182c8091971d212587.JPG

_MG_3726.thumb.JPG.6a4da58129e21abb4655b80ecac469e3.JPG


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2004 Toyota Corolla

Engine: 1ZZ-FE, 140HP Transmission: C59 5spd Manual

Weight: 2500lbs/1130kg

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Me again.

hypothetical question here to all you car guys.

looking at the bmw z4 e89 specifically 2013 and newer

what engine would you go for / recommend also in terms of reliability and general maintainance cost?

 

18i - 156HP 2.0l Turbo - imo a bit weak 

20i - 184HP 2.0l Turbo - ?

23i - 204HP 2.5l Non-Turbo - also maybe a bit weak because no turbo and worse in fuel economy but maybe more reliable ?

28i - 245HP 2.0l Turbo - ?

30i - 258HP 3,0l Non-Turbo - again no turbo so i suspect the fuel effiency / fun ratio is a bit off

35i - 306HP 3.0l Twin-Turbo - too expensive

35is - 340HP 3.0l Twin-Turbo - too expensive

 

so between the 20i, the 23i and the 28i im kinda stuck and looking for known problems and experiences/opinions


"I know its stupidly overdone and unreasonably unneccesary but wouldnt it be awesome if ..."

 

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2 hours ago, cluelessgenius said:

Me again.

hypothetical question here to all you car guys.

looking at the bmw z4 e89 specifically 2013 and newer

what engine would you go for / recommend also in terms of reliability and general maintainance cost?

 

18i - 156HP 2.0l Turbo - imo a bit weak 

20i - 184HP 2.0l Turbo - ?

23i - 204HP 2.5l Non-Turbo - also maybe a bit weak because no turbo and worse in fuel economy but maybe more reliable ?

28i - 245HP 2.0l Turbo - ?

30i - 258HP 3,0l Non-Turbo - again no turbo so i suspect the fuel effiency / fun ratio is a bit off

35i - 306HP 3.0l Twin-Turbo - too expensive

35is - 340HP 3.0l Twin-Turbo - too expensive

 

so between the 20i, the 23i and the 28i im kinda stuck and looking for known problems and experiences/opinions

I think the 28i uses the B48

Probably the most reliable option on that list tbf


Needs money for car parts :P

 

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