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Idle Temps Seem a bit high

Hello everyone,

 

I have been searching around recently about temperatures when cooling with the H100i-v2. The temperatures I have been seeing are much lower than my own.

Specs: 

I7-5820k (not overclocked at all when taking these temperatures)

H100i-v2 with the stock fans on

32gb DDR4 Corsair Vengeance RAM

Asus Rampage V Extreme

2 Way SLI GTX 1080ti

 

The case is the Rosewill Throne, has 2 corsair af140s in the front blowing into the case, the 2 sp120ls on the radiator blowing up and out of the computer, and 1 af140  as the exhaust fan on the back.

Also the version of the case i have has a big 200mm fan on the side panel blowing inwards.

 

I recently re-thermaled my CPU thinking my paste was dried up. I verified all the fans are operational.The radiator was mounted per the instructions so I don't think its mounted incorrectly.

 

I am running out of ideas as to why my temps are so much higher.

 

Idle.PNG

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check your temps with another software such as coretemp, HWmonitor, Aida64 and verify the temps. Could be a bug with the corsair software. 

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Just snapped this, with only chrome running in the back ground. As well it matches my temps on the corsair software too.

IdleAida.PNG

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shut down chrome. What is your idle temps after a fresh boot up

Community Standards | Fan Control Software

Please make sure to Quote me or @ me to see your reply!

Just because I am a Moderator does not mean I am always right. Please fact check me and verify my answer. 

 

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What are the temperatures under full load?

I would suspect the cooler is failing.

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Probably a stupid question on my part, but, Have you cleaned the system of dust lately? Also, the thermal paste may be to blame if you've had the system a while and haven't replaced it.

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I dusted it out and put on new thermal past about two days ago now when i realized how high the temps were in comparison

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Temperatures are consistent with the water temperature (shown as 45 degrees) why your water temp is so hot is another question though. had you put on load recently? is your ambient temperature very high?

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Just because User A gets temperature A doesn't meaning you will get the same results. There are allot of variables to take into account. From the room temp (The seasons will have an effect of the temperature) to where your PC is at & is the heat moving away from your case or is the heat trapped around your case. Some have there radiators in the front which is brings cool air in through the radiator it can give you better temps.

 

Are the other users using stocks fans or have they upgraded to better fans? I know allot of people replace the stock fans from AIO kits with premium fans like the new ML Pro fans.

 

Also was the thermal paste applied correctly (Not to thick but not to thin ether)? Is the cooling plate sealed & tight with no air getting inside and No air bubbles inside the thermal paste? Also make sure you using a good brand of thermal Paste too. Might be a good idea to get a new tube of it if it's older. I have had very good results with Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste.

 

Also is XMP enabled on your ram?

 

It might also be a good idea to head into your bios to check everything out. I would rest everything back to there defaults & then check the temps again.

 

Lastly Make sure data in Corsair Link software is matching the actual pump. Corsair Link use to be a mess, not sure if they fixed everything or not. Some devices would not respond correctly to the software changes.

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@For Science! I am not to sure of what you mean by put on load recently? and the ambient room temp is 25c on average.

 

@Revan654 I am not sure about all the users upgrading their fans, but there were a couple that i saw would put like QE AF120s on and their temps were still lower then mine, which concerns me since those fans are pretty weak. When I recently reapplied my thermal paste I made sure to put on the correct amount, and evenly applied the pressure while remounting the heat sink. However is there a trick to figuring if there is a bubble or not because that could be a possibility. The thermal I put on was a new Artic Silver 5. Before I took those temps I did recently restore defaults in my bios to remove the overclock. The only thing that is not default is my RAID config. 

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11 minutes ago, Devastation14 said:

@For Science! I am not to sure of what you mean by put on load recently? and the ambient room temp is 25c on average.

Water's heat capacity indicates that it will retain temperature for a longer period of time, compared to say, a chunk of metal. 45 degrees water temperature on idle is particularly unusual at a 25C ambient temperature, indicating something is not quite right, or you were for example gaming recently before taking the picture. Liquid coolers take a much longer time to reach "idle temps" after a long heat soak period.

 

The only immediate thing I can come up with is whether your pump is connected to a 12V DC mode header that is set to 100% at all times (i.e. no fan curve) otherwise your pump wil not behave properly; although based on the rpm reading, I Assume you've done this correctly.

 

You have 2 x 1080Tis in your case, are they open shroud coolers? (i.e. not a blower style card?). Idling at 58 degrees also sounds pretty hot to me. If so those 2 cards are probably kicking quite a lot of heat out and your H100i v2 is having to use the warmer case air to cool the water. If you have an openshroud card, then I would personally recommend mounting the radiator as front intake. If it is a blower card, I'm out of ideas.

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I just  turned on my computer this morning after being off all night and the temps matched my idle temp that I posted yesterday. Right around 50c.

 

Also the 1080tis are the founders edition so they are blower style cards, unless I have the two types mixed lol. And looking at my temps currently the first gpu in the sli is the hotter one on idle by like 20c. I am not sure if that is normal lol either.

 

As far as moving my radiator to the front; I am limited because the case does not have the ability to mount to the front, only the top.

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Just now, Devastation14 said:

I just  turned on my computer this morning after being off all night and the temps matched my idle temp that I posted yesterday. Right around 50c.

 

Also the 1080tis are the founders edition so they are blower style cards, unless I have the two types mixed lol. And looking at my temps currently the first gpu in the sli is the hotter one on idle by like 20c. I am not sure if that is normal lol either.

 

As far as moving my radiator to the front; I am limited because the case does not have the ability to mount to the front, only the top.

okay so founders editions are indeed blower style card. It is fairly typical for the top card to be hotter since it is the one likely rendering your desktop and has to feed off the hot air coming from the back of your second GPU. In this case then top mounting your radiator is the better choice since those graphics cards are taking one for the team

 

So the temperature reported by Corsair Link for the H100i GTX is the water temperature, and that really should not be more than 5 or so degrees about room temperature, when starting from idle. Otherwise it likely indicates that the pump is too slow, or the fans are too slow, or there is an airlock somewhere in the AIO. So if you can confirm that the pump is running full speed (by 100 % 12 V supply via BIOS) and that the fans are running, I would try rocking the case, and tapping the radiator.

 

If then nothing happens, I think you may contact Corsair. Say that your idle water temperatures is 25 degrees hotter than ambient and suspect something may be wrong with the product.

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I will give the case rocking a try, might be a little hard. This pc is pretty dense lol. 

 

I saw the curve on the pump was 100% once the water hits 40c so since my idle is always above 40 then it should be 100% all the time. I removed the curve and set it to 100% all the time to see if there is any change.

 

UGG I never like contacting MFGs, always a hassle. Plus only had this cooler for 1.5 years now lol

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1 minute ago, Devastation14 said:

I saw the curve on the pump was 100% once the water hits 40c

This statement confuses me because I am talking about the BIOS setting supplying the 3-pin power to the pump, and the BIOS cannot know about the H100i's water temperature. So you need to make sure that the 3-pin header is set to a constant 100% speed in the BIOS, and not coupled to CPU temperatures.

 

Corsair coolers have a 5 or 6 year warranty, so it doesn't make sense not to leverage it particularly if you are having issues.

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So I did the rocking a bit and now the temps look like this at idle. However on Link is shows the fan is 0rpm. But they are definitely spinning

After tilting.PNG

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2 minutes ago, Devastation14 said:

 

Interesting, so your core temps are still consistent with the water temps so the mounting is good. The water is still a bit hot for 25 degrees idle, but better than 45. Maybe there was indeed some air stuck somewhere. See if tapping the tubes and radiator helps anymore, and put the pump to performance mode (if it isn't already). Good luck

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Yea I agree that it is still a bit high, but considering i started off this week with a 100c cpu event this is a lot better progress lol. 

Ill keep tapping to see if there is any more, thank you for the advice everyone!!! 

 

And during a stress test the cpu never got higher then 45c so that is a great improvement.

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Okay I dont understand what is going on my water temps have been rising again. Its back up to around 50c water temp at idle. I am starting to think that the cooler has an issue. Any ideas?

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Those temperatures are indeed high for idle. Do you still have the stock cooler? Might try that to see what the temperatures are then? Is your pc set on performance mode? I had this at one time where at idle my pc ran much higher temps when it was in performance mode. When I switched it to power saving the idle temps went down by 5-10 degrees. 

"To the wise, life is a problem; to the fool, a solution" (Marcus Aurelius)

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On 7/27/2017 at 11:18 AM, Devastation14 said:

So I did the rocking a bit and now the temps look like this at idle. However on Link is shows the fan is 0rpm. But they are definitely spinning

After tilting.PNG

Read my signature. You are likely having conflict issues.

 

BTW if your water temp is that high then the CPU temp is pretty normal. The CPU temp will usually be within 20C of the water temp when your heat transfer is good (block correctly mounted). Now you have to figure out why your water temp is so high. Try the fix in my signature first, if that doesn't fix it then either your pump is not working correctly, or your fans are not working correctly, or you're pushing hot air through the radiator. Is your case airflow good? Is the AIO intake or exhaust? Intake would help cool the rad if your case is hot.

 

Also 10-15% usage at idle on a 5820k is pretty high, what's taking up all that CPU? What's running in the background?

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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Sorry about the delayed responses guys. I ended up getting a new cooler and the temps dropped to normal temps.

@pyrojoe34 The one thing that you mentioned was the cpu load being 10%, I am not sure why it says that in link because in any other performance software the cpu will idle at like 1-2% lol. So I do not know where corsair is getting that from. Any ideas?

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58 minutes ago, Devastation14 said:

Sorry about the delayed responses guys. I ended up getting a new cooler and the temps dropped to normal temps.

@pyrojoe34 The one thing that you mentioned was the cpu load being 10%, I am not sure why it says that in link because in any other performance software the cpu will idle at like 1-2% lol. So I do not know where corsair is getting that from. Any ideas?

well it's just a screenshot so it was probably just a burst of activity right when you took it.

 

If you didn't read my signature yet and still use a Corsair cooler and some other hardware monitoring software alongside Link, I recommend you do. It will avoid problems in the future.

Primary PC-

CPU: Intel i7-6800k @ 4.2-4.4Ghz   CPU COOLER: Bequiet Dark Rock Pro 4   MOBO: MSI X99A SLI Plus   RAM: 32GB Corsair Vengeance LPX quad-channel DDR4-2800  GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC2 iCX   PSU: Corsair RM1000i   CASE: Corsair 750D Obsidian   SSDs: 500GB Samsung 960 Evo + 256GB Samsung 850 Pro   HDDs: Toshiba 3TB + Seagate 1TB   Monitors: Acer Predator XB271HUC 27" 2560x1440 (165Hz G-Sync)  +  LG 29UM57 29" 2560x1080   OS: Windows 10 Pro

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Other Systems:

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Home HTPC/NAS-

CPU: AMD FX-8320 @ 4.4Ghz  MOBO: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3   RAM: 16GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Gigabyte GTX 760 OC   PSU: Rosewill 750W   CASE: Antec Gaming One   SSD: 120GB PNY CS1311   HDDs: WD Red 3TB + WD 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200 -or- Steam Link to Vizio M43C1 43" 4K TV  OS: Windows 10 Pro

 

Offsite NAS/VM Server-

CPU: 2x Xeon E5645 (12-core)  Model: Dell PowerEdge T610  RAM: 16GB DDR3-1333  PSUs: 2x 570W  SSDs: 8GB Kingston Boot FD + 32GB Sandisk Cache SSD   HDDs: WD Red 4TB + Seagate 2TB + Seagate 320GB   OS: FreeNAS 11+

 

Laptop-

CPU: Intel i7-3520M   Model: Dell Latitude E6530   RAM: 8GB dual-channel DDR3-1600  GPU: Nvidia NVS 5200M   SSD: 240GB TeamGroup L5   HDD: WD Black 320GB   Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2693HM 26" 1920x1200   OS: Windows 10 Pro

Having issues with a Corsair AIO? Possible fix here:

Spoiler

Are you getting weird fan behavior, speed fluctuations, and/or other issues with Link?

Are you running AIDA64, HWinfo, CAM, or HWmonitor? (ASUS suite & other monitoring software often have the same issue.)

Corsair Link has problems with some monitoring software so you may have to change some settings to get them to work smoothly.

-For AIDA64: First make sure you have the newest update installed, then, go to Preferences>Stability and make sure the "Corsair Link sensor support" box is checked and make sure the "Asetek LC sensor support" box is UNchecked.

-For HWinfo: manually disable all monitoring of the AIO sensors/components.

-For others: Disable any monitoring of Corsair AIO sensors.

That should fix the fan issue for some Corsair AIOs (H80i GT/v2, H110i GTX/H115i, H100i GTX and others made by Asetek). The problem is bad coding in Link that fights for AIO control with other programs. You can test if this worked by setting the fan speed in Link to 100%, if it doesn't fluctuate you are set and can change the curve to whatever. If that doesn't work or you're still having other issues then you probably still have a monitoring software interfering with the AIO/Link communications, find what it is and disable it.

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