Dog ripped off wire copper on hard-drive, possible to still get some files off it?

[Guest Generallee]

snip

 

You're done m8

 

Unless you want to pay a professional to retrieve your data 

[d4jsp]

You're done m8

 

Unless you want to pay a professional to retrieve your data 

 

Estimated range in USD? Ballpark please and make it fast before I kill myself ~

[Guest Generallee]

Estimated range in USD? Ballpark please and make it fast before I kill myself ~

 

As it is stated in my location, i dont live in the us so i cant tell you how much it costs 

 

http://www.drivesaversdatarecovery.com/

[d4jsp]

As it is stated in my location, i dont live in the us so i cant tell you how much it costs 

 

http://www.drivesaversdatarecovery.com/

Lol, this was the same site one of the 'Computer Repair Shops' told me to go to after I called them and asked about my hard drive, oh the irony.

 

I'm going to call up some local tv repair shops in about 4 hours. These people at tomshardware said they should beable to do it.

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2676892/dog-ripped-wire-copper-hard-drive-files.html#16032623

 

 

 

 

If not.. Then yeah, I might do the drivesavers option. Hopefully it's not too much...

[Eniqmatic]

I think it can be done, only 4 pins by the looks of it and isn't that fine. How valuable is the stuff on it?

[d4jsp]

I think it can be done, only 4 pins by the looks of it and isn't that fine. How valuable is the stuff on it?

 

It's only one javascript file. It's my networking and game functions for my web-browser based game written in V8 Javascript within nodejs. (Websockets). About 100+KB, over hundreds of hours worth of coding.  I made backups but lost them, and then accidentally formated an old drive, lost them it was like a perfect chain of events. (then, the dog bites this freaking ribbon cable off lol)...  I do have my main game source code backed up and saved though, just missing this stupid file.  

[Eniqmatic]

You should weigh up the cost vs how precious the data is. If you decide it's to expensive to have it professionally done, then you have nothing to do it by doing it yourself. I'd be tempted to secure wires on somehow yourself without soldering, there are ways. Then be extremely careful plugging it in, if you had a USB caddy that would be safest probably? Then if you get it going, immediately copy everything off.

[d4jsp]

You should weigh up the cost vs how precious the data is. If you decide it's to expensive to have it professionally done, then you have nothing to do it by doing it yourself. I'd be tempted to secure wires on somehow yourself without soldering, there are ways. Then be extremely careful plugging it in, if you had a USB caddy that would be safest probably? Then if you get it going, immediately copy everything off.

So pretty much just connect the drive with the sata ports, and start connecting the copper wires from the white block using 4 individual copper wires to connect to the 4 circular holes and the moment the drive starts spinning, restart the pc so the drive loads in and xfer the shit off as fast as possible?

 

I'll probably end up TRYING to do this if I call those businesses' up today and end up short

 

If I can get one TV shop to try to the soldering way, I'll do it but if I cannot get anyone i'll just try it myself with copper wire, nothing to lose haha.

[Eniqmatic]

So pretty much just connect the drive with the sata ports, and start connecting the copper wires from the white block using 4 individual copper wires to connect to the 4 circular holes and the moment the drive starts spinning, restart the pc so the drive loads in and xfer the shit off as fast as possible?

 

I'll probably end up TRYING to do this if I call those businesses' up today and end up short

 

If I can get one TV shop to try to the soldering way, I'll do it but if I cannot get anyone i'll just try it myself with copper wire, nothing to lose haha.

I wouldn't do this with the PC on, make sure it's off first. Do you have a USB drive caddy or anything?

 

Just be smart about it, look at how you can do it with the least risk involved to either the drive or the rest of your machine. It might be an idea if you can power the drive up without being connected to your computer, that way you know if you hear the drive start up then you have a good chance of it being OK.

[d4jsp]

I wouldn't do this with the PC on, make sure it's off first. Do you have a USB drive caddy or anything?

 

Just be smart about it, look at how you can do it with the least risk involved to either the drive or the rest of your machine. It might be an idea if you can power the drive up without being connected to your computer, that way you know if you hear the drive start up then you have a good chance of it being OK.

 

Nope, honestly, never heard of a usb drive caddy before. I'm guessing it's used to output minimal power to the hard drive for situations like this?

 

Just got back from school, making the calls now to the TV repair shops. I'lll keep u updated ~

 

EDIT: LMAO I called up Geek Squad. I said 'Do you guys do soldering work on hard-drives?' The girl in her snitchy/bitchy voice says 'Umm... We do not' and hung up. LOL fuck off.. My city is full of assholes lol

[d4jsp]

Hey guys, here is a video I made for specifically for you guys:

 

 

It's about soldering the wire, can I do it behind the white controller (4 silver things there) or does it have to be inside of the socket?

 

(if it had to be inside of it, there is no way I can get in there without some type of microscope... soldering thing)

[d4jsp]

Just to let you all know I appreciate your help and everything... Unfortunately it still is not receiving power. and 99.99% my soldering skills were at fault (first time ever). Hell, I had to drive BACK to home Depot because I didn't even know I needed a resin core based electronic solder. I just thought I could solder the wire ontop to the silver slabs and be done with it.... 

 

The problem is,  I think I put too much solder on it... but it's whatever. I didn't want to give up without trying.. Here are the finished results. I know for a fact, the eletric power is coming from the circular inputs at the top they have to be. I stuffed those with a TON of copper coiled wire, they have to be touching in there... If only somehow I can get this thing powered on for 20-30 seconds... I think it's over though...

 

 

Edit: After the first solder.. that thing took way too much space and covered up the second silver lining next to it... That's when I kinda new.. it was over.  Blah...

 

Now that I look back.. I should of just used tape and taped the 4 copper wires on each lining and then just soldered it...

[W-L]

Hmm that's unfortunate   

[MG2R]

Since you could only see one of the four "silver" ends in the wire holes, the drive was already repairable. Those "silver" ends are the contact points which are soldered into the ribbon cable. Yanking off the ribbon cable also destroyed the actual wires inside the motor.

 

I have no idea how your dog managed to do that but you need to store your drives in a safer place.

[d4jsp]

Since you could only see one of the four "silver" ends in the wire holes, the drive was already repairable. Those "silver" ends are the contact points which are soldered into the ribbon cable. Yanking off the ribbon cable also destroyed the actual wires inside the motor.

 

I have no idea how your dog managed to do that but you need to store your drives in a safer place.

Anyway to start over or take off the resin solder and try to re-solder them? (Just off the white controll board) I know for a fact I got electricity going into the circular motor inputs but I just don't think each wire is making contact with those silver linings because the huge resin after my first one got in the way. Hmm

Can I buy the same model one, and then take off it's ribbon cable and plug it in on the white controller board, then solder its end to my circular wire coppers sticking out?

[MG2R]

Anyway to start over or take off the resin solder and try to re-solder them? (Just off the white controll board)

Oh hell, I hadn't even seen the mess you made on the controller board Yeah, no, that's not good at all. You shortened out the connectors so it'll never work this way. What kind of a tip is on your soldering iron?

You can use soldering wick/braid to remove tin, but it ain't the easiest job to do: http://www.seattlerobotics.org/guide/images/wick.jpg

 

 

I know for a fact I got electricity going into the circular motor inputs

How do you know this?

 

 

I just don't think each wire is making contact with those silver linings because the huge resin after my first one got in the way. Hmm

To be sure we're talking about the same thing here: what silver linings are you talking about?

 

 

Can I buy the same model one, and then take off it's ribbon cable and plug it in on the white controller board, then solder its end to my circular wire coppers sticking out?

When the ribbon cable was yanked, it took the connecting lead from the coils inside the motor itself with it. Those leads are soldered into place on the ribbon cable and not strong enough to hold when pulled. You motor is done for, this has nothing to do with the logic board, nor the ribbon cable.

 

The only thing that's left to try is buying the same drive model and transferring the platter from the faulty drive to the healthy drive, which will almost certainly end up in two broken drives unless you know perfectly what you're doing, and you're working in sterile and (more importantly) dust free lab conditions.

 

 

So, in short: sorry to break it to you, your drive is dead. The data that was on it is lost. Time to set up an elaborate backup scheme

 

 

PS: I really hate it to tell people they can't do something, but sometimes one needs to be honest. This is just FUBAR and it's time to realize that. Feel free to try whatever you can think of, let me know if any of it works. I'm pretty sure it won't though.

[d4jsp]

Oh hell, I hadn't even seen the mess you made on the controller board Yeah, no, that's not good at all. You shortened out the connectors so it'll never work this way. What kind of a tip is on your soldering iron?

You can use soldering wick/braid to remove tin, but it ain't the easiest job to do: http://www.seattlerobotics.org/guide/images/wick.jpg

 

 

How do you know this?

 

 

To be sure we're talking about the same thing here: what silver linings are you talking about?

 

 

When the ribbon cable was yanked, it took the connecting lead from the coils inside the motor itself with it. Those leads are soldered into place on the ribbon cable and not strong enough to hold when pulled. You motor is done for, this has nothing to do with the logic board, nor the ribbon cable.

 

The only thing that's left to try is buying the same drive model and transferring the platter from the faulty drive to the healthy drive, which will almost certainly end up in two broken drives unless you know perfectly what you're doing, and you're working in sterile and (more importantly) dust free lab conditions.

 

 

So, in short: sorry to break it to you, your drive is dead. The data that was on it is lost. Time to set up an elaborate backup scheme

 

 

PS: I really hate it to tell people they can't do something, but sometimes one needs to be honest. This is just FUBAR and it's time to realize that. Feel free to try whatever you can think of, let me know if any of it works. I'm pretty sure it won't though.

Nah it's okay. More people need to be like you and give criticism. I just was told I need to use a solder wick and can re-try.

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2676892/dog-ripped-wire-copper-hard-drive-files.html#16038742

(im posting here for help as well).

But, I could see copper coils inside the circular things in the motor area when I put the copper wire in there. That's how I know/think for a fact it's connected quite well in the circular inputs because I put a lot of wire in there and then soldered it (it has to be touching/making a connection in there).

But, for my white socket where it's the 'mess' you speak of, is yeah.. a Mess and I don't think the wires are touching them because it's so hard use the rosin solder stick, then hold the copper, then get the solder iron.. I was holding the rosin core solder with my mouth lol. I need to use thin tape or something then solder them on?

Hmmm what about just sending it to the professionals? They would need to get the data off the platters. Around 250-1000$+ right?

Edit: But, I'm going back to home depot and going to try my tape method and buy those wisks and retry the connectors on the white socket just to make sure. If not, then yes.. I think it's over

[MG2R]

Just to clear up the communication again: the thing you refer to as resin is actually called solder tin

 

But, I could see copper coils inside the circular things in the motor area when I put the copper wire in there. That's how I know/think for a fact it's connected quite well in the circular inputs because I put a lot of wire in there and then soldered it (it has to be touching/making a connection in there).

You can see copper wire, but that doesn't mean there's an electrical connection. The copper wire in electrical motors are insulated with varnish (the same sort of stuff you put on table tops or wooden stairs to make them shine). It goes on clear, so you can't see it but they are in fact electrically insulated.

 

You need the original connecting wire (the one that was soldered to the original ribbon cable) in order to make a decent connection and actually repair the motor. Whatever you try, the motor will not spin.

 

 

I don't think the wires are touching them

Well, the solder tin has shorted out the four contacts on the PCB, that's for sure. You will really need to practice your soldering skill for these small connections.

 

 

Hmmm what about just sending it to the professionals? They would need to get the data off the platters. Around 250-1000$+ right?

Data recovery in this scale is really only worth it for enterprise environments where the data is worth thousands of dollars or more.

 

 

Seriously, if you're going to the store, pick up a USB thumb drive to use as a backup

[d4jsp]

Just to clear up the communication again: the thing you refer to as resin is actually called solder tin

 

You can see copper wire, but that doesn't mean there's an electrical connection. The copper wire in electrical motors are insulated with varnish (the same sort of stuff you put on table tops or wooden stairs to make them shine). It goes on clear, so you can't see it but they are in fact electrically insulated.

 

You need the original connecting wire (the one that was soldered to the original ribbon cable) in order to make a decent connection and actually repair the motor. Whatever you try, the motor will not spin.

 

 

Well, the solder tin has shorted out the four contacts on the PCB, that's for sure. You will really need to practice your soldering skill for these small connections.

 

 

Data recovery in this scale is really only worth it for enterprise environments where the data is worth thousands of dollars or more.

 

 

Seriously, if you're going to the store, pick up a USB thumb drive to use as a backup

Well, only 30$ in and I tried. 26 for the solder iron, then 4$ for the rosin core.. Oh well I guess I'll get to start writing my new gamefunctions.js file. Man... this was brutal I feel like shit but I know I tried, failed miserably but yeah. Thanks for telling me the truth. It's just funny/sad because I made backups of my game source on 3 different devices, and on ONLY I forgot to include the gamefunctions.js file, AND that was the drive that my dog bit the ribbon off (this one). What are the odds... Grr. Anyways yeah I'm most likely done, thanks for being honest Not wasting any more money

[Eniqmatic]

I haven't read the rest of the comments so apologies if mentioned before but I think the wire you should have used should have been thicker. As I said before I would have also used a non-destructive way of getting it to sit there without soldering first.

 

Anyways at least you tried!

[Jarsky]

Can I buy the same model one, and then take off it's ribbon cable and plug it in on the white controller board, then solder its end to my circular wire coppers sticking out?

 

Yes you can. The only thing you can't do in a multi-platter hdd, is to unbolt the platters - or else they will be out of alignment and unrecoverable, ever.

You can replace the logic board and other parts without issue as long as it's from the same make/model.

[MG2R]

Yes you can. The only thing you can't do in a multi-platter hdd, is to unbolt the platters - or else they will be out of alignment and unrecoverable, ever.

You can replace the logic board and other parts without issue as long as it's from the same make/model.

Replacing the logic board won't help in this case, it's the motor itself that's F'ed

[Jarsky]

Replacing the logic board won't help in this case, it's the motor itself that's F'ed

 

Yeah but from what I read the motor side is clean, it's the logic board end in the white retainer thats now f***ed.

 

In any case, it appears that drive is just a single platter 80GB - so I would personally get a replacement drive that is working - and swap the platter over.

If you aren't comfortable with it then when you have the second drive just take it to someone that does drive repairs to do the swap.

 

Looks like theres plenty of them on eBay

[d4jsp]

Yeah but from what I read the motor side is clean, it's the logic board end in the white retainer thats now f***ed.

 

In any case, it appears that drive is just a single platter 80GB - so I would personally get a replacement drive that is working - and swap the platter over.

If you aren't comfortable with it then when you have the second drive just take it to someone that does drive repairs to do the swap.

 

Looks like theres plenty of them on eBay

So I could theoretically just buy the new hard drive model which is http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145082for 56$, then go to a local computer shop and tell them to transfer my platter over to this new one?

How much would that cost?

Should of just done this.... FML LOL

[Jarsky]

So I could theoretically just buy the new hard drive model which is http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145082for 56$, then go to a local computer shop and tell them to transfer my platter over to this new one?

How much would that cost?

Should of just done this.... FML LOL

 

 

Yup, if you want to spend that much on a new drive - otherwise theres some on eBay for half the price second hand.

 

The datasheet says that the drive has a single data disk (platter): http://www.hgst.com/tech/techlib.nsf/techdocs/5AB985BA152021C686256CE800718F09/$file/7K80_DS.pdf