Reattach Plastic Barb?

[DefinitelyTech]

I was disessembling an AIO for a sff build, and to replace the tubing with a more flexible tubing. In doing so I broke off one of the block/pumps plastic barb fittings.

 

is there a way to reattach this?

Glue gun + Apoxy? Super Glue + Apoxy?

 

If I was successfully to reattach the fitting, how confident would you be in it not leaking?

[thedabbler]

I am no expert, But I don't think that I would trust it. Granted I have no experience with AIO coolers.  You may get it attached back and it may stay for a while but you would just have a ticking time bomb in your case. 

[SuperCloneRanger]

hot snot is ok for crafting but i would never trust it for anything serious and super glue does not hold up well against water. A 2 part epoxy could work but i personally wouldn't trust it. If i was in your situation and could not afford a replacement i would drill out the old fitting, tap the hole and screw in a new one.

[DefinitelyTech]

2 minutes ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

hot snot is ok for crafting but i would never trust it for anything serious and super glue does not hold up well against water. A 2 part epoxy could work but i personally wouldn't trust it. If i was in your situation and could not afford a replacement i would drill out the old fitting, tap the hole and screw in a new one.

Ooooo. This seems interesting

[SuperCloneRanger]

7 minutes ago, Marenoc said:

Ooooo. This seems interesting

pictures would help, also make/model. some of the aio's use threaded barbs to begin with. 

[DefinitelyTech]

1 minute ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

pictures would help, also make/model. alot of the aio's use threaded barbs to begin with. 

Enermax TR Liqtech 360. First model. Not TR II. I don’t have pictures right now but it is plastic barbs, but seem to be smaller and set to the housing, not threaded. The tubing is 7 or 8mm ID and 13 OD.

[SuperCloneRanger]

5 minutes ago, Marenoc said:

seem to be smaller and set to the housing, not threaded. The tubing is 7 or 8mm ID and 13 OD.

Thats a shame, would of made things easier. If you do replace the fitting, when adding the new one i recommend a liberal application of loctite 243, it will stop the barb backing out and seal it to prevent leaks. 

[For Science!]

43 minutes ago, Marenoc said:

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Especially if its on the block side, I personally wouldn't trust anything that isn't in top condition, too risky with all the expensive components close by.

[SuperCloneRanger]

1 hour ago, For Science! said:

Especially if its on the block side, I personally wouldn't trust anything that isn't in top condition, too risky with all the expensive components close by.

Oh, wow, i totally missed that(unless it was edited after the fact). I was talking about the radiator. But assuming there is enough plastic, drilling and taping should still work but loctite won't. instead i would add some 2 part epoxy to the new barbs thread before screwing it in, it will bond the dissimilar materials together and act as a water barrier to prevent leaks.

[DefinitelyTech]

1 hour ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

Oh, wow, i totally missed that(unless it was edited after the fact). I was talking about the radiator. But assuming there is enough plastic, drilling and taping should still work but loctite won't. instead i would add some 2 part epoxy to the new barbs thread before screwing it in, it will bond the dissimilar materials together and act as a water barrier to prevent leaks.

There is a way to drill out the holes and tap a G1/4” thread, but need to realign the  hole as it is slightly offcenter. Drilling out the original hole will put it over the side

[SuperCloneRanger]

The trick to drilling off centre holes is to use a guide. Drill your 1/4" hole into a scrap piece of metal or ply wood then fix this to your block using some double sided tape/hot glue, lining the hole up to where you want to drill. now you have a guide that will stop your bit moving while you drill.

[DefinitelyTech]

57 minutes ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

The trick to drilling off centre holes is to use a guide. Drill your 1/4" hole into a scrap piece of metal or ply wood then fix this to your block using some double sided tape/hot glue, lining the hole up to where you want to drill. now you have a guide that will stop your bit moving while you drill.

Next step is to find a 11.8mm Drill bit and a 1/4” Tap to get to me asap

[SuperCloneRanger]

i was looking around, you can get fittings with a 1/4 barb and an 1/8 thread. you wouldn't need such a big hole. 8.6mm vs 11.6mm.

 

https://smile.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-57001-0402-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B00F68TAV6/

[DefinitelyTech]

12 minutes ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

i was looking around, you can get fittings with a 1/4 barb and an 1/8 thread. you wouldn't need such a big hole. 8.6mm vs 11.6mm.

 

https://smile.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-57001-0402-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B00F68TAV6/

As great as that is, the hole is already 3/8” or around 10mm. 

[SuperCloneRanger]

27 minutes ago, Marenoc said:

As great as that is, the hole is already 3/8” or around 10mm. 

It was worth a look.

1 hour ago, Marenoc said:

Next step is to find a 11.8mm Drill bit and a 1/4” Tap to get to me asap

Amazon, if you search for tap + drill you can get them together in a set. just make sure you get the correct thread type for your fitting.

 

Good luck.

[DefinitelyTech]

2 hours ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

It was worth a look.

Amazon, if you search for tap + drill you can get them together in a set. just make sure you get the correct thread type for your fitting.

 

Good luck.

Last question. In case this project doesnt work and I have to use another aio dissembled, do these barba look loke they will work on g1/4” holes? Idk about the width of the threading? I’m not sure on the measurements cause from my knowledge G1/4” is equivilant to the 19 Thread Per Inch measurement.

 

https://www.rakuten.com/shop/zoro/product/G1502916/?sku=G1502916&scid=pla_google_zoro&rmatt=tsid:1012713|cid:1499916386|agid:59549929122|tid:aud-341901534156:pla-553900349448|crid:286631998710|nw:g|rnd:13373257473975247451|dvc:m|adp:1o1|mt:|loc:9014321&gclid=Cj0KCQiApvbhBRDXARIsALnNoK0sD4J31TI3Kh-JwHTPIEFgNTTbBXHN7LWFA0U-IaMBsPaEYIsdrewaAuixEALw_wcB

[it_dont_work]

2 part marine epoxy should be fine, trouble will be holding it all aligned until it begins to cure, bit of a dodge way but will work^tm 

[SuperCloneRanger]

3 hours ago, Marenoc said:

Last question. In case this project doesnt work and I have to use another aio dissembled, do these barba look loke they will work on g1/4” holes? Idk about the width of the threading? I’m not sure on the measurements cause from my knowledge G1/4” is equivilant to the 19 Thread Per Inch measurement.

No, G1/4 fittings use BSP(british standard pipe) thread the linked barb is NPT(national pipe taper) thread. When working with G1/4 i would stick with the water cooling specific fittings as you know they will fit.

[DefinitelyTech]

12 hours ago, SuperCloneRanger said:

No, G1/4 fittings use BSP(british standard pipe) thread the linked barb is NPT(national pipe taper) thread. When working with G1/4 i would stick with the water cooling specific fittings as you know they will fit.

If you can find G1/4” thread fottings for 6mm tubing let me know. I am having trouble finding them. Thanks. Goes from 8mm to 4mm.

 

Nevermind. Immediately found a pack of 20 plastic ones on Newegg for $10 and Koolance has some low profile onces for $4 each.

 

Plastic or Nickel?

Edited January 16, 2019 by Marenoc

[SuperCloneRanger]

I would go with the nickel, a metal thread into plastic works better than plastic on plastic.