AMD Wraith Prism strange speeds

[Imago]

Once solved the non-posting PC, now I have another issue: The CPU Cooler.

I installed the stock Wraith Prism (I hate its rainbow effect, duh!) and now my CPU is always about 40 C° in idle and keeps ramping up and down constantly. I'm starting to think it's defective.
I have another cooler, the Arctic Alpine 64 Plus. It says 100 watts, could it be enough to replace the Wraith Prism on my Ryzen 7 2700x on stock speeds?

[NelizMastr]

The Prism did the same on my 2700X. When you let it boost freely, the temps spike and the fan ramps up. That Alpine won't do better as it has a lower TDP rating than the 2700X at stock.

[Imago]

Uhm... But the temps never went above 70C° and it ramps up and down in idle, with just the desktop on my screen.

[Imago]

20 minutes ago, NelizMastr said:

The Prism did the same on my 2700X. When you let it boost freely, the temps spike and the fan ramps up. That Alpine won't do better as it has a lower TDP rating than the 2700X at stock.

An AIO could be a bit more silent and reliable?

[NelizMastr]

4 minutes ago, Imago said:

An AIO could be a bit more silent and reliable?

Depends on which one you'd get. The low end ML240 RGB by Cooler Master is pretty junky imo for instance. There are also decently quiet air coolers on the market that won't ramp up nearly as much, such as the BeQuiet Dark Rock 4 and Pro 4.

[Imago]

That BeQuiet is thicker than the whole case! Also I think it's too heavy to put the motherboard vertical, I'm afraid to bend the socket downwards.

I need something more low-profile and I have just a 120mm fan slot available to instal anything. Any suggestion for a small yet nice cooling solution?
I had to choose an ITek Invader 3 for my rig.

[WoodenMarker]

On 12/20/2018 at 3:45 AM, Imago said:

That BeQuiet is thicker than the whole case! Also I think it's too heavy to put the motherboard vertical, I'm afraid to bend the socket downwards.

I need something more low-profile and I have just a 120mm fan slot available to instal anything. Any suggestion for a small yet nice cooling solution?
I had to choose an ITek Invader 3 for my rig.

There's no need to worry about cooler weight with good cooler mounting hardware. 

What motherboard are you using? Setting a less aggressive fan curve should help.

[Imago]

I have a Gigabyte B450M DS3H. I installed its fan control software, it mitigated the issue.
The CPU barely reaches the 75° when under load (3D rendering) but the fan is really loud when it goes above the 2000 RPMs.
Also, I don't know why, now I notice the top of the case gets extremely hot even with a constant air flow granted by two fans, one on the front and one on the back. I had to open the service panel on the side to avoid it but strangel it seems to not change CPUs temps.

[Imago]

Reading around the net I found that AMD has stated that X CPUs models (1700X, 2700X...) has a "false" reporting of temps increased of 20C°... So my temps are actually 20C° in idle and 55C° under load? Someone could confirm me this?

[WoodenMarker]

4 hours ago, Imago said:

Reading around the net I found that AMD has stated that X CPUs models (1700X, 2700X...) has a "false" reporting of temps increased of 20C°... So my temps are actually 20C° in idle and 55C° under load? Someone could confirm me this?

Yes, there's a 20c offset although whether it's false or not might be up for debate. The temp reported is derived from how much thermal margin is left instead of a thermometer so any reading can be seen as 'false'.

Your temps are fine.

 

If the light bothers you, you can turn it off with when the internal usb header is plugged into the motherboard and with their RGBsoftware: http://www.coolermaster.com/amd-ryzen-wraith-prism-rgb-software/

 

11 hours ago, Imago said:

Also, I don't know why, now I notice the top of the case gets extremely hot even with a constant air flow granted by two fans, one on the front and one on the back. I had to open the service panel on the side to avoid it but strangel it seems to not change CPUs temps.

What case and fans are you using?

 

Make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

[Imago]

13 hours ago, WoodenMarker said:

Yes, there's a 20c offset although whether it's false or not might be up for debate. The temp reported is derived from how much thermal margin is left instead of a thermometer so any reading can be seen as 'false'.

Your temps are fine.

 

If the light bothers you, you can turn it off with when the internal usb header is plugged into the motherboard and with their RGBsoftware: http://www.coolermaster.com/amd-ryzen-wraith-prism-rgb-software/

 

What case and fans are you using?

 

Make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

Ok, thanks for the quoting tip!

 

I'm using an ITek Invader 3 ( http://www.itekevo.com/it/product/case-invader-r03/?ice-lang=en ) with two Itek Xtreme Flow 120mm ( http://www.itekevo.com/it/product/ventola-case-xtreme-flow-12cm-led-rosso-34pin-silenziosa/?ice-lang=en ) One on the front and one on the back in a Suck-in-Blow-out setup from the front to the back. They are plugged on the 12V Molex so always at top speed.

I thought the back fan could be enough to push out the hot air, but I guess my GTX 780ti is blocking a bit the air flow. Also the PSU is in the bottom and sucks the air from outside the case.

[Nord1ing]

On 12/20/2018 at 12:09 PM, Imago said:

Once solved the non-posting PC, now I have another issue: The CPU Cooler.

I installed the stock Wraith Prism (I hate its rainbow effect, duh!) and now my CPU is always about 40 C° in idle and keeps ramping up and down constantly. I'm starting to think it's defective.
I have another cooler, the Arctic Alpine 64 Plus. It says 100 watts, could it be enough to replace the Wraith Prism on my Ryzen 7 2700x on stock speeds?

Check temps with something like hwinfo.

If fan spin up and down in idle, change default pmw curve in bios or in fan control software

[WoodenMarker]

56 minutes ago, Tlpwka said:

Check temps with something like hwinfo.

If fan spin up and down in idle, change default pmw curve in bios or in fan control software

The OP already tweaked with the fans settings although it's unclear whether or not the noise is still an issue.

7 hours ago, Imago said:

I'm using an ITek Invader 3 ( http://www.itekevo.com/it/product/case-invader-r03/?ice-lang=en ) with two Itek Xtreme Flow 120mm ( http://www.itekevo.com/it/product/ventola-case-xtreme-flow-12cm-led-rosso-34pin-silenziosa/?ice-lang=en ) One on the front and one on the back in a Suck-in-Blow-out setup from the front to the back. They are plugged on the 12V Molex so always at top speed.

The hot spot and temps seem normal considering how much heat the 780 Ti produces and the restrictive rear fan mount. Much of the airflow is blocked and deflected back into the case due to the opening not being wide enough for the fan blade tips which provide a significant amount of the fan's performance. 

 

 

I'd recommend getting a new case before a new cooler if you want to spend on upgrades. 

Is the cooler noise still an issue?

[Imago]

12 minutes ago, WoodenMarker said:

The OP already tweaked with the fans settings although it's unclear whether or not the noise is still an issue.

The hot spot and temps seem normal considering how much heat the 780 Ti produces and the restrictive rear fan mount. Much of the airflow is blocked and deflected back into the case due to the opening not being wide enough for the fan blade tips which provide a significant amount of the fan's performance. 

 

 

I'd recommend getting a new case before a new cooler if you want to spend on upgrades. 

Is the cooler noise still an issue?

No, I used the Gigabyte's Smart Fan and made a less steeper curve for the fan, now it's way more bearable and prodices way less vibrations.

So the case is "suffocating" my hardware? I have an old case from 2000s, it's huge and all steel (literally!) but it uses 80mm fans, one on the front and one on the back but the PSU goes on the top, right above the CPU. Could it help?

And what do you know about the AMD's temps offeset?

[Imago]

1 hour ago, Tlpwka said:

Check temps with something like hwinfo.

If fan spin up and down in idle, change default pmw curve in bios or in fan control software

Already solved, thanks!

[WoodenMarker]

12 minutes ago, Imago said:

No, I used the Gigabyte's Smart Fan and made a less steeper curve for the fan, now it's way more bearable and prodices way less vibrations.

So the case is "suffocating" my hardware? I have an old case from 2000s, it's huge and all steel (literally!) but it uses 80mm fans, one on the front and one on the back but the PSU goes on the top, right above the CPU. Could it help?

And what do you know about the AMD's temps offeset?

Smaller fans probably would probably be worse so I wouldn't recommend going to the older case. 

The 20c offset is just for better default fan settings. https://community.amd.com/community/gaming/blog/2017/03/13/amd-ryzen-community-update

[Imago]

On 12/23/2018 at 7:31 PM, WoodenMarker said:

Smaller fans probably would probably be worse so I wouldn't recommend going to the older case. 

The 20c offset is just for better default fan settings. https://community.amd.com/community/gaming/blog/2017/03/13/amd-ryzen-community-update

Solved in a odd way, I simply inverted the rear fan orientation (from pulling out to pushing in air) and now the whole PC is 10C° fresher than before and the case doesn't get hell-hot. To make the hot air escape from the case I removed the plexiglass panel from the side lid and replaced it with a sturdy net to protect the component in the inside.