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I am trying to bind right click to LT and left click to RT, but it looks like because they are triggers and not just buttons, it's not working. I got it to work bound to RB and LB, does anyone know how to change the triggers to a binary input or otherwise make this work?
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Hey, hopefully someone can explain. I have an Xbox Elite controller and a PS5 controller that I recently bought. My Xbox controller charges when my pc is off (I have the usbs activated when pc is off in bios) but my ps5 controller doesn’t charge. I think the PS5 controller needs more juice to charge while the Xbox controller doesn’t. I’m wondering if it’s because the usb ports lose some wattage after the pc is off as oppose to it being on. Cause PS5 controller charges when the pc is on. As a side note, my ps5 controller doesn’t charge on low watt android charger bricks but it does on the newer high wattage bricks.
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I have the MSI X470 GAMING PRO CARBON and yes, it does have Intel Wireless / Bluetooth yet i can not seem to get it going. Any ideas?
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hi everyone, good saturday :) so recently I was watching a few YT videos on the topic of controllers. Something that I came across in this video was that apparently the accuracy of the analog sticks of the xbox controllers, including series X/S, Elite 2 and One, are by a large margin extremely inconsistent and inaccurate, especially at high speeds. Now since I was planning on switching from Dulshocks to Xbox controllers myself, I got a bit interested and checked myself on my Dualshock, and then on a newly bought Xbox Series X/S controller. And low and behold, the accuracy was in facht noticably worse on the Xbox controller! I first used this site, then afterwards a program caleed JoyTester 2 (the one the guy in the video used) to check the consistency by drawing circles, varying by speed and direction. The first image is from a comparison between my DS4 on the left and the Xbox Series X/S I newly bought on the right. But just to be sure, I asked a friend with two other Xbox controllers to see if it happened to him as well. The second picture is how it turned out in his case. This too seems quite inaccurate in my eyes. Unfortunately though, like the guy in the video said, it is quite difficult to pinpoint to one specific cause or even a solution. I ended up refunding the new Xbox controller and am now waiting for a Razer Xbox One controller (the Wolverine TE) to arrive. I'll be testing that one as well and, if it is as inconsistent as the original Xbox controller, refund that one and return to my DS4. Does anyone know of this problem? It certainly surprised me that a $60 or so controller would be this "bad". Any thoughts?
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so i got a generic wireless controller with a xobox one layout on aliexpress and it works kinda fine but the analogs have both a considerable dead zone and dont detect small movent so its really hard to aim in games like horizon zero dawn, so i opened it and also a old xbox 360 controller i have, and the connections seems to be the same so i was wondering if i could take the analogs from the 360 controller and put it on the wireless generic one or maybe buy xbox one analogs to do this, but i called a repair shop in my town and they told me that generic controllers were not compatible with the xbox one analogs so i dont really believe them and was thinking of trying to do it myself, but before i buy the parts i wanted to know if somebody here already tried something like that?
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Hey guys which is best controller for gaming on pc Should I buy Xbox controller (elite 1) vs PS 5 controller or should i buy a thrid party controller (like red gear) or should I even buy a controller
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Heya, So I have an Xbox S controller [official] which I use for nearly all my (non FPS) games. It's 14 months old. Connected via a BT 4.0 dongle. Been working flawlessly up until a few days ago. When I'm gaming, after a certain amount of time (anything in between 5-20min) suddenly the game starts to stutter (basically the frames per second drops to 1). It stay like that until i turn off my controller, yank out my BT dongle, or press ESC on the keyboard (which causes the game to switch from controller to m+k) and the game starts acting normal again. When i game on my mouse/keyboard, or when I use my PS4 controller no issues. So it's most def down to the controller or dongle. Anyway I can test this and determine what's the cause and how to fix it? [i'm not very tech savvy btw] Edit: i checked Event logger and found 3 odd messages that seem to have occurred when the controller was bugging out. 1. The local adapter does not support an important Low Energy controller state to support peripheral mode. The minimum required supported state mask is 0x2491f7fffff, got 0x1fffffff. Low Energy peripheral role functionality will not be available. 2. Initial connection to Bluetooth HID device failed. The device has been removed as a personal or paired device. You must reinstall the device. ~~ i did have to pair the controller again [this happened maybe once] 3. Bluetooth HID device either went out of range or became unresponsive.
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Hello! I am defeated... I cant seem to wrap my head around this. If someone can please help me. I don't always play with the Xbox Controller on my pc, so I wasn't up to date on its latest drivers. The Xbox Series X controller drivers are out of date and the Xbox Accessories app cant pick up the controller to update it. I don't have a console to connect the controller to, to update it. I've tried connecting wirelessly and via USB. I just need the drivers. The only way to update the drivers is through the Xbox Accessories app on PC from what I can see. If I connect via USB-C it just registers as a generic Controller which drivers are out of date/Missing. What do I Do? Please help. Oh and when it is connected wirelessly I've tested it on https://gamepad-tester.com/ and it registers the inputs so the controller is working, it just doesn't get picked up by the Xbox Accessories app or the game I was trying to play.
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Hey guys! So I have this xbox one controller for a while, and been using it with a cheap ebay bluetooth dongle which I put inside my PC case. I realised the controller is not working as it should: sometimes it does not connect, sometimes it just stops working, sometimes several buttons don't work only when I press them multiple times. I even tried it with an USB, less issues but they are still present. I was wondering, if I would buy an xbox one controller adapter for PC, would that solve all my problems, or it's the controller's fault? I really need some help, thank you! P.S.: I did update the controller's firmware, via xbox accessories windows app.
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I have an Xbox controller plugged in to use as an audio jack for my headset. Today it disappeared after accidentally unplugged the headphones and now the audio source (Xbox controller 3 - headphones) is gone and even when showing hidden devices in device manager where it's supposed to be (under sound, video and game controllers) the sound source is gone
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Hi folks, I had a blue Midnightforces Xbox One Controller sincs 2014 and it worked just fine with my PC. I used it with cable and after the release of the wireless receiver without cable. I got a new white Controller from (the one from the One S) and a Bluetooth Dongle for my PC. It worked fine, but I reinstalled Windows like I do it once a year and now I have different Issues. Before I reinstalled Windows, the Controller connected over Bluetooth in less than 3 seconds. Now I have to go to Bluetooth options and remove it and pair it new every time. Also while playing GTA Online, sometimes I drive my car and the controller just disconnects. Or i want to do a left turn, but the controller doesn't stop left turn and keeps turning left. But when I connect it to the Cable, it works without any problems. Also the distance between the controller and the PC should not be an issue, about one meter. Edit: I don't have the wireless adapter and the blue Controller anymore, so i can't swich and try if it works or not. Anyone similar issues. Any ideas how to fix it? I reinstalled all drivers multiple times. All Windows 10 Updates are installed. DreiPunktVier
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Is it possible to charge rechargeable batteries from xbox 360 controller? or can it only charge batteries like this that is made for the xbox 360 controller: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PCS-4800mAh-Rechargeable-Battery-For-Xbox-360-Wireless-Remote-Controller-Black-/142094201608?hash=item2115797308:g:7FwAAOSwaB5XusTL
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Just recently resurrected an old build I had and was setting it up to play some games on it. My issue is that after installing the Xbox One wireless controller driver (the USB dongle version, controller is also the first model from the launch Xbox One) i’ll turn it on and it seems to work but It varies from game to game. Basically what happens is it’ll just randomly drop its connection to the dongle and it tries to reconnect but it just keeps flashing until I disconnect the dongle from the PC and reconnect it.For example I can play GTA V and it’ll be fine for 15-20 minutes and then it’ll disconnect and not reconnect until I unplug it. Skyrim (32-bit version) this one I can’t get it to stay connected for even 15 seconds. I’ve scoured on the Internet everywhere and cannot seem to find a solution. It works 100% fine on my laptop (Which is Windows 7) and my primary desktop (Which is Windows 10 version 1803) and does not suffer from the same issues of it disconnecting.Affected PC specs: CPU: Intel Core 2 Extreme QX9650 @ 4GHzMB: Evga nforce 790i Ultra SLIRAM: Patriot DDR3 1600MHz 2 x 4GBSSD: Kingston A400 120GB SATA IIISSD: Crucial MX100 512GB SATA IIIGPU: 2 x Nvidia GTX 660 in SLIPSU: Thermaltake White 600WOS: Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 64-bit (all up to date)All USB 2.0 ports are functional Main Desktop it works on:CPU: Intel Core i7-5775C @ 4.4GHzMB: ASUS Z97-E/USB 3.1RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR3 2 x 8GB @ 2000MHzSSD: Samsung 850 Evo 120GBHDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200RPM 2TBGPU: AMD R9 290X 4GBPSU: Corsair RM850W GoldOS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (ver 1803)Worked in USB 2.0/3.0 and 3.1 portsLaptop it works in:CPU: Intel Pentium 2020M @ 2.4GHz (Ivy Bridge Mobile)MB: ToshibaRAM: Crucial 2 x 8GB 1600MHzOS: Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit (Up to date as far as I know)Worked in a USB 2.0 portSteps taken to try and fix it:1. Reinstalling Windows (did not work)2. Reinstalled the driver about 20 times now (did not work)3. Tested the device on two other computers (worked on both of those)4. Tried other devices in the USB ports of the affected PC (USB ports fully work)5. Tried a wired connection (Works but not in any game)6. GeForce Experience is not installed (I have heard conflicting statements on this affecting it and at the same time it doesn’t for other people)7. Tried it in all USB ports on the motherboard and it does the same exact thing.8. Computer is not too ancient as it worked in the previous incarnation of this same exact build minus the SLI, with an AsRock G41 motherboard 9. Set USB in device manager to not turn off to conserve power (did not work) 10. Updated the controller firmware via windows 10 xbox accessories app. (Did not work)If anyone has anything else I can try please suggest it because I have been pulling my hair out for a week trying to figure why it will not work in this computer.
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Is there any non hacking or modding way to connect a usb game controller or an xbox controller over usb to a nintendo switch? obviously just plugging them in does not work or I would not be asking :P. I am just curious thanks!
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Recently I've become increasingly frustrated by how poorly xbox controller support is implemented in Windows. Specifically, how complicated it is to use one controller switching between multiple computers. For whatever reason, Microsoft decided it was a good idea for controllers to not show up on the "connect" menu in the notification panel. This means that in order to connect a controller to your computer you have to actually open settings and go to bluetooth devices. On top of that, if the controller has been previously connected to your computer, you can't just click on its name to pair it. You have to remove the device from your computer's recognized bluetooth devices and then scan for new devices and add the controller all over again like you would the first time you ever connect it. This makes it a huge pain if you frequently switch the controller between different devices, as each time you use it on a different device you have to perform all the previously listed steps. It would be so much easier if Microsoft would make controllers appear in the bluetooth connect menu of the notification panel. Then all you would have to do to switch the controller between devices is put it into pairing mode, and select the controller in that menu. Much more simple and user-friendly. Maybe I'm just stupid and there's a way easier way to do this already that I'm not aware of, but if there is it clearly wasn't obvious enough for me to figure out.
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Hello, My girlfriend likes to play games on the TV using an xbox gamepad. Is there anyway I can make the game only detect the gamepad so that I can use the keyboard and mouse to carry on using my PCs other functions on the second display (normal monitor)? Kind regards, Lewis
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I was playing Black Ops II and the game started to stutter and then it completely froze for a moment and then my wireless Xbox one controller connected via Bluetooth disconnects, it has happened in GTA V a few times but it hasn't made the whole game lock up and it hasn't done it recently. I turned my controller off and turned it back on, it re-connects. All is going great for a few minutes and then BAM! Whole game freezes, controller disconnects again, game doesn't recover. I then Alt-tabbed out to discover I had no mouse and every time I moved my mouse, I heard a beep through my headset. I pressed the power button to shutdown and it tried to shutdown but then hung with a black screen. I looked in Event Viewer and around the time it happened it showed "Bluetooth HID device either went out of range or became unresponsive." and then nothing in the System log after that. I looked in the other logs but nothing stands out to me that would relate to my mouse becoming unresponsive. I did Google this problem and found some old Microsoft forum post, a Reddit post, and a post from this Forum relating to the same exact issue, but they are from 2016. They say to uninstall update KB3140743, however it is not present on my computer. I am using Windows 10 Version 1803 (Build 17133.73) currently.
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Microsoft Xbox Bluetooth Wireless Controller, Green/Orange (Walmart Exclusive), WL3-00035 for $36 (with Tax $39) Link: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Microsoft-Xbox-Bluetooth-Wireless-Controller-Green-Orange-Walmart-Exclusive-WL3-00035/55145676
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Every time I have an issue with connecting my Xbox one controller to pc and search it I always come across some idiot mentioning.. Console controllers have aim assist.. Use a mouse or die.. It is stupid to read.. 1. Aim assist is built into console games such as Call of duty Black ops 3. 2. You can disable this setting in the menu on the game on Xbox one. 3. When you have aim assist active and you are aiming down sights.. An enemy runs past your sight the gun will attempt to follow.. That is aim assist. 4. I hope Linus media group can somewhat test this to prove me wrong but get the same game on pc.. Use the Xbox controller and test aim assist.. I guarantee it does not move. 5. It is very annoying when pc users that are able to maneuver using keys and mouse.. Tell users of console equipment that controllers have aim assist built in and it is foolish to use. Especially when a user is asking for help connecting and using controllers on pc. Granted that controllers are harder and slower to use but surely pc gamers want a bigger variety of people to play on pc and not turn them away back to console.
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so when i play a game ocasionally the wireless xbox one controller cuts in and out. can anyone help prevent it? thanks
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Hey guys, Some time ago, I've acquired some games that can be played with another player locally. Locally in the same PC, which means 'Versus' games and/or 'Local Co-op'. I got some generic controllers which I use with the X360 Controller Emulator. I've played a lot of co-op/vs games with my sibling even on consoles. So I'm now planning on buying some legit controllers for my PC, namely an Xbox 360 wireless controller. Then I see this cool looking XB1 controller which is said to work on a PC with a driver from MS. My questions are... - How can I use the wireless capability of the XB1 controller for my PC because in the driver page, it just says I need a cable and doesn't even mention on how to wireless. - Can I pair it up with the XBox 360 wireless receiver? - Has anyone tried this before? or even using a wireless controller for the PC Don't worry PC Master Race, I still use a KB and Mouse for the majority of my game time It's just that some games are just begging to be played on a controller and I like playing it from a TV while lying on a couch or just the floor :lol:
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Hello. I am wondering if it is possible to connect a wireless Xbox 360 controller via a play and charge kit to a PC? I'm running Windows 8.1 Pro, and my system specs are on my profile.
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I have seen somebody with one from a photo, and i'm looking for a stand of some sort to put next to my pc with something to hang a headset on and put a wireless 360 controller on. Does anyone know of such a product? Cheers :)
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