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TwilightRavens

Member
  • Content Count

    241
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About TwilightRavens

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday Jul 25, 1995

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    Amethyst O’skeltur

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hell, probably burning as we speak
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Overclocking, Building PC’s, Old hardware and tinkering with stuff that I know I’ll break.
  • Biography
    Been into computers since I was 4, and always loved the idea of tinkering with stuff.
  • Occupation
    Self employed

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 9 3900X
  • Motherboard
    AsRock X570 Taichi
  • RAM
    G.Skill TridentZ Neo 3800MHz (16-16-16-36)
  • GPU
    MSI GTX 1080 ti Armor OC
  • Case
    Phanteks Enthoo Pro
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 Evo 250GB NVME SSD/Seagate IronWolf NAS 7200RPM SATA III HDD 4TB
  • PSU
    EVGA Supernova 750W Platinum PQ
  • Display(s)
    Sceptre 27” Curved VA 144hz
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i v2
  • Keyboard
    Logitech Prodigy G213 RGB Backlit Gaming Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Hero
  • Sound
    HyperX Cloud Alpha
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (ver 1909)
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

470 profile views
  1. WHEA error is usually memory related, so a good place to start would be to reset bios to default and run memtest86 if you can find a way to get around the no post, but honestly I'd blame the failed post on a dying mobo.
  2. Linux Lite is a Windows "feeling" version of linux, its probably one of my favorites because it works right out of the box without any tinkering. It also can run on a machine with 768MB of RAM and a 1GHz CPU.
  3. And people said I would never need 32GB of RAM pfffft, I'm tempted to get another 32GB around the holidays, we'll see.

     

    Capture.PNG.73e7138ebd08f74c53aab1edb8aa4956.PNG

  4. Liquid metaled the GTX 285 finally after human malware caused shipping delays on my Conductonaut and Fujipoly thermal pads (the 17w/mk ones). Regardless I’ve gotten around to assembling it and am in the process of benchmarking it. Will upload pics of the benchmarks if this gets 10 likes but I forgot to take pics of when i put the liquid metal on the die and resealed the ihs. I’ll say temps went down considerably, was bouncing off 80C stock at manual 100% fan to now maintaining 65C whilst withstanding a heavy overclock.

  5. She's ready for liquid metal next week! :D

    photo_2020-07-17_01-02-23.jpg

    photo_2020-07-17_01-02-19.jpg

  6. Delidded a GTX 285 tonight.

    photo_2020-07-17_00-19-08.jpg

    photo_2020-07-17_00-08-53.jpg

    photo_2020-05-27_23-21-36.jpg

  7. As the title says, though this was a bit more difficult than a typical CPU because I had to heat it up with my brand new heatgun I purchased today.
  8. see edit real quick if you wanna reenable write protection
  9. No problem, I'm glad it resolved your issue, I was a bit hesitant at first but once seeing what you described to me it pointed more to a vbios issue rather than something else messing with it. also if you wanna re-enable write protection just relaunch nvflash and do: nvflash --protecton or nvflash64 --protecton depending on which worked.
  10. hmmm looks like its write protected, after launching nvflash use this command: NVFlash64 --protectoff press enter and then attempt to reflash. Edit: If that command doesn't work use: nvflash --protectoff
  11. Let me know how it goes, it should be pretty straightforward, the only way to brick the card would be to cancel it in the middle of the flash or if you lost power. Other than that if the bios doesn't work it just won't correctly load the driver and in that case just revert back to the old bios and that usually fixes it. I've flashed my 1080 ti to an incompatible bios and that's basically what happened and it was fixed when flashing back. Also sometimes it may not be right away that you'll notice something is wrong so i'd hold on to that bios for as long as you feel the need to as a "just in ca
  12. It shouldn't be a problem, but just in case make a backup of your current bios using GPU-z and save it to a safe place in case it doesn't work, that way you can easily revert back to what you had.
  13. You could download that BIOS file, assuming that's the exact card you have, make sure device id and sub system id matchup (which from what I see they do but double and triple check behind me) and you can use a program called nvflash to flash that one, but make sure the card is not overclocked in any way before you flash. Here's a detailed guide on how to do it: https://www.overclock.net/forum/69-nvidia/1523391-easy-nvflash-guide-pictures-gtx-970-980-a.html
  14. Still seems like they've been edited, compare the BIOS Internals section between the two.
  15. Its definitely been modded, Board power limit Target: 887.0 W Limit: 900.0 W gives it away in that dump. The default bios is: Board power limit Target: 300.0 W Limit: 390.0 W As seen here: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/179159/gigabyte-gtx980ti-6144-151027
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