Mick Naughty

Id always buy the good looking blower over any card. always have. Did buy an open air cooler only because they didn't have any blowers that weren't pny and zotac. Put a water block on it so I don't care how many fans it has.
 
Most use default fan profiles and don't care how hot their card runs. They can run at the same temps, they can make the same amount of noise. I prefer that everything runs as cool as it can, not just the graphic card. Especially as I always sli and blower is better.

Seems as though most don't own the card thensevles or don't get the concept of a fan. Just because youtube people who use auto profiles get cards to throttle doesn't mean actual people let their components bake and make the compromise. Use what's offered and it will perform. 

Seems as though most don't own the card thensevles or don't get the concept of a fan. Just because youtube people who use auto profiles get cards to throttle doesn't mean actual people let their components bake and make the compromise. Use what's offered and it will perform. 

Depending where you are at, you can go to a local micro center with you info and build the loop on the spot. Or use ek's tool and order everything you need.

Can't. Weak CPU problems. And the other game is an unoptimized pos. I went for the founders compared to the ftw and I even had the strix before this. The extra power delivery is nice but I don't see many gains from oc. 10 frames isn't gonna break it for me. 

I don't see anything. I'm sure all of my rads look worse. 

After wasting money on a gtx 1080 again, I get to throw more stuff at the spare rig. Not seeing the big deal with parallel loops. May put it in my other case and toss a 480 rad on top of the 360 and won't even notice the difference to series. 

Technically but the water is gonna run so cool that it will be pointless. Even with 2 cards, a CPU, vrm block,  south bridge and ram blocks, the hottest I've got my coolant is 40c. Never seen it get lower then 35c with all the fans and pump maxed out. 

I'd run everything at the lowest. My fans can only go to 40 so I keep the pump there. Can't hear a thing. Aside from my psu. 

Correct. I run noctuas. They will stop any lower then that. So my asus software stops at 40 and 20 on the pump. 

The fact that the gpu won't exceed 40c and 50c for the CPU, the water temp won't go past 36c with the fans and pump at 40%. Just doesn't make sense to have them go faster unless you want the fans to turn off when the water is at 30c or less and turn on after that. Which I can understand that. But if the fans are gonna stay on, it's pointless. 

I didn't twist shit. Maybe your are understanding what I said. It's pointless. 

If more parts on the loop or one less rad, I would agree to do it. I'd even do it if I still ran two cards. It's what's most important anyway. But as it sits it's pointless. I didn't generalize anything. Based it solely off his rig. Which I've ran the same setup. 

If more parts on the loop or one less rad, I would agree to do it. I'd even do it if I still ran two cards. It's what's most important anyway. But as it sits it's pointless. I didn't generalize anything. Based it solely off his rig. Which I've ran the same setup. 

Order it from evga if you can't use a screw driver correctly. 

Meh, didn't stop me from cracking open my brand new Titan years ago with the same intentions. Some talk about it while other be about it. 

Need help putting the card in? I could use another star. 

Got my old setup back together. Minus the 1kpsu. About to destroy this "850" watt. 
 
Guess the 9 series is worth it for efficiency. 

Well my cards are power hungry. They are hard clocked, their boost clock is 1006 from the hydro copper bios and I oc them to 1201, I can go into the 1250's but I don't see any gains. That pic is from me playing black ops 3. With my old 3770k oc'ed at 4.5ghz.
 
The setup didn't look like it does how though. I just had enough spare parts to build another pc so now I use it for surround gaming.

Well all the hot air in the loop, caused the ram to bake, back of the cards were on fire too. I was really lacking air flow with the high fpi 360.  Nothing was getting passively cooled. Ram sensor on the board had them at 50c. Back of the cards were hotter then that. In benchmarks the system did better but gaming sessions for a few hours started to hot box pretty bad. I normally keep the fans at 70% while gaming, with the rad in front the cards would hit 50c. With the rad in the back and same fan speeds top card would be 44 and bottom 40c. Ended up putting everything on water with the rad movement.

The res can't exceed the bandwidth of the igpu. Depends on the laptop. 

Piece of mind. 

690, hands down. Titan z is a close second.

Meh, that like most calculators are gonna be way off for most. I easily pull 800 from the wall with my main rig. The internet experts say I can get buy with some 800-850 watt psu's. I go buy one and my pc shuts down under load. They tend to forget the basics of electricity. Don't say that psu will work strictly based of wattage when amperage is a factor.
 
You may be fine with it if your components aren't as hungry as my old stuff.  Cutting it close and it will depend on how long you game. Stress test and monitoring everything will let you know.

Depends on the game. Every game I have ever played supports sli. And the 1 great card theory only works with the best card. The fact most results only show 10-15 frames which isn't much. Two cards still beat one in sythentic and I notice marginal gains with a single card. For the price of two 980ti's I'd rather go for a 1080. If those were my only choice anyway.