Crave

I had the same problem a few weeks ago and it was a setting that can only be changed through the command line, that i never touched before, that windows decided to change on its own.
The best way to check this, is, take a thumbdrive and install a bootable linux on it. If you can connect to the network wit that with full speed, its a software issue, if not, its most liekely a hardware issue.

could have been a powerspike, but likely not as it would have taken down the port in the router/switch as well, but they sometimes survive. 
i would just reinstall windows without using more time on troubleshooting, if it still is a problem after reinstall it might be the onboard NIC that is fried. And use Wifi that is working as you say.
i've seen my share of nic's getting burned out for no reason, and i've seen my share of windows installations that borks the nic's too. ... and seriously.. reinstall windows once a year minimum, as it's so much junk left from patching and update that often don't work.. 
 
as for the time span you say you updated bios and changed settings, there settings in routers and on servers that takes weeks to see the effects of it. most network settings has a tombstone timer,  dhcp dns, windows accounts even, computer accounts. ... but it all takes time to troubleshoot.. most of that should be reset by the install as well. and it's down to the hardware if it's faulty or not. And a much faster way to check it. 
 
 

Oh, I see lol. I pretty much learn everything about electronics and other stuff when I am confronted with broken/defective products and there are no good repair shops, who, at least know what they are doing. If you looked at me ten years ago, I was the dude who was calling a motherboard a processor.
 
I have talked about the circuit breaker with an electrician, who installed it and it is the pretty much the best, which can be found in a country. Of course, there is an option of ordering breakers from abroad via proxy shipping, but for the time being, I kind of just want to bring my PC back and finally get back to the internet. Phones/tablets' OSs have just too many limits when you compare it even to text-based Linux OSs.

The short was on the high voltage side of your power supply, so the rest of your PC's parts should be fine.

So it happened when you did nothing with the PC? It can be "normal" that some breakers pop when you flick the switch on a PSU due to the inrush current for the caps. It shouldn't happen, but with older wiring and big caps it can happen...

Not being rude, it was a self depricating joke on myself lol. I have connected like 2 electrical boxes with random stuff, I have literally no education on that department, but "electrical tape" must be made for electrical wires?
 
Doing it yourself is also an option, but then triple check everything, because even the jackass who taped the wires together probably had "some" experience.

Um, sorry for being rude. It's just when I learned that the proper and secure way to connect electric cables is tinning copper ends with solder and use tiny terminal block with levers, I was like: "Wow. That look nice, clean and good for easy maintenance. Why the hell nobody does it this way?"
 
In a country where I live, there are no certified electricians. Only the good ones and the bad ones in disguise. Of course, there are companies/infrastractures, who provide services similar to this, but it is more expensive than getting an unofficial electrician or just learning, purchasing the right tools/products and doing it yourself.
 
I mostly prefer the last option, because at the end of the day, you also learn something new.

After the spark, I immediately unplugged power cable, put anti-static strap, unplugged every PSU cable and took the PSU away from case.
 
I went all out for safety of components and got a Corsair SF750. Hope it serves me better than Silverstone's "Titanium" PSU.

Because they can't support all. Physically it supports all but the bios has to know what to do and simply put there is too little room in the bios for all. That and certain chipsets "don't" support certain ryzen cpu's. They actually do support all of em but it's up to the motherboard maker to allow them all and well they aren't going to put in effort for cpu's that aren't being made anymore

It's safe to update but you lose support for your cpu's the further you go as the bios size is too small so to get support for newer ones they remove older ones. So leave it be until you actually move to a new cpu then triplecheck the bios you need and update to that.

I see, thanks for the help. i'll probably either sell it after i purchase a new 240 HZ monitor (hopefully without any defects) or just continue using it and wait till it completely dies, so i can replace it.

https://www.amd.com/en/products/graphics/amd-radeon-rx-5500
VideoCardz is reporting that AMD is to announce the RX 5500 series as expected today, October 7th (I wonder why..).
https://videocardz.com/82162/amd-announces-radeon-rx-5500-series-with-gddr6-memory
 

 
They are apparently announcing 3 SKU's:
The RX 5500M has 4gb (Not confirmed whether GDDR5 or GDDR6 though), while the 5500 non-XT has 4gb GDDR6, and the 5500XT has 8gb GDDR6. There were rumors of a 3gb card, but it looks like those were untrue if this is anything to go by.
 
They also suggest that this card competes against the lower-end Polaris and Turing cards:
I find this very very interesting. Is this a hint at the pricing? They couldn't, could they? If they price this alongside the 1650, WOW. I don't think any of us would have expected that.
 
VideoCardz has also leaked the performance slides AMD is going to show (no resolution, but I assume it's 1080p in some form):
 

 
That is some serious butt-whooping going on there. This is far ahead of the RX 570, which is about on par with the 480. It may well be that AMD can deliver what people wanted, a true RX 570 replacement. I'd imagine these numbers would put it around the 1660 performance. That is nearly 20% faster overall than the RX 480 there, while apparently being 1.6X the performance per watt, and well..I'm not even going to bother calculating the difference over the 1650 cause that is a huge gap.
 
And by the way, the 5500 isn't the only one beating the 1650. The 5500M (Assuming that means a mobile part) is beating the full 1650 as well, despite being pitted against the 1650 mobile part. Now it remains to be seen: How are Nvidia going to respond to this? AMD have responded to a 1650 Super, they've countered that without it even being launched yet.
 
If they price the 5500 at $150, then..the RX 570 successor has finally arrived. There's a new king in town. Budget buyers finally have something worth buying.
 
EDIT: ITS OFFICIAL.
Navi will also appear in laptops too! The 5500M will appear in a number of laptops, including MSI's Alpha 15 for $999:
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/msi-alpha-15-price-specs-amd-5500m,40558.html
 
No official pricing details yet or release date however for the desktop parts. Also..there are no reference designs. All custom.
 
You also get a free game with these cards. Either Ghost Recon Breakpoint or Borderlands 3! And Wccftech are reporting (grains of salt, not official) that the 5500 will launch at $130 and 5500XT at $150. Power consumption has also been revealed by AMD at 110w TBP for the 5500.

Unless you have load of cash to spend for expensive (attempted) data recovery, all you can do is either try some recovery programs (as you tried) or accept it and move on, unfortunately

CB241H is a TN panel, https://www.acer.com/ac/en/US/content/model/UM.FB6AA.005
 
The panel type doesn't matter in this case, I just point it out because the specs say it's a 60hz panel. Can you try something? set your primary monitor to the 60hz panel, launch a game on it, window it, and then drag it to the 240hz panel and see if the effect happens there. What, in theory might be happening is that the GPU might be driving both panels at the same rate if they are windowed, and thus interacting with the window drags it down. But otherwise run the game on the higher refresh rate monitor as primary and drag it to the 60hz panel and see what happens.
 
If the effect is identical regardless of which screen the game is started on, then the GPU is clearly the bottleneck in this configuration. If the game operates at the higher refresh rate only on the higher refresh rate monitor, and doesn't jump down to 60 when it's on the 60hz monitor, then it's trying to drive both screens at 240hz, even if it only draws 60hz.
 
The consequences for that mean that having the monitor plugged in is doubling the load on the GPU, rather than 20%. So the work-around to that would be to just not have that monitor plugged in at all, or turn it off when not gaming, but that's not the best situation. 
 
However it's also not an ideal situation from the beginning, as normally you want to pair two identical monitors in multi-monitor setups to avoid stuff like this. There's also annoyances when you have mixed 4K and 1080p monitors, as an example, when I physically turn my 4K off, and turn it back on, all the windows are resized to 1080p, since that's the resolution of the other monitor that's normally turned off.
 
If you haven't tried a reinstall of Windows yet, I'd probably start there (reinstall with both monitors operating.) I'd probably just find or salvage a drive, or even use a 32GB SDXC Card or USB stick, install windows to it with your existing drives unplugged and see if you can repeat the problem. If the problem repeats itself, then the problem is in Windows, or the drivers, and not much can be done.
 
I'm not emphasizing reinstalling the OS however, because even though that is a suggestion to solve this, it's really just a crapshoot. It might not be a permanently fixable problem since Microsoft did change how 1903 does multi-monitor, and the experience thus far hasn't been encouraging.

@TVwazhereI've made an illustration of the thing i was talking about before. I think that there won't be any problem with it as long as it doesn't exceed Watt of the controller and fan header, but i'm not sure, as i didn't check everything yet.
 
Unfortunately, the CPU cooler, which i can use inside my case is nh-u9s (125mm maximum height) and you can put only 92mm fans on it. 120mm fan sends cold air that comes from edges of the case, so it's sort of crucial to have. 80mm fan is for taking out the hot air from the back of the case. According to BitFenix, you can install only one 80mm fan either on top or bottom, but i found out that you easily instal two fans without any modding, you just don't have to screw the upper and lower corners of fans, but i think that you can somehow secure them with anti vibration mounts

I understand. Well, a fan of socks and sandals once said, when you go for performance and tiny/portable case, you sacrifice the noise, so i was already prepared for that, and that's why i'm going full Noctua, to at least, remove some portion of it.
 
Thanks for provided help and sorry for taking so long to understand how fans work.
 
By the way, at the time i finished building my first PC, i got ASRock AB350 Fatal1ty, because it was the only decent choice at the time, and even though they have sh!ty VRM and MOSFET heatsinks (also they lied about the quantity of VRMs), they actually put 3 fan headers on their board.

@TVwazhereI've made an illustration of the thing i was talking about before. I think that there won't be any problem with it as long as it doesn't exceed Watt of the controller and fan header, but i'm not sure, as i didn't check everything yet.
 
Unfortunately, the CPU cooler, which i can use inside my case is nh-u9s (125mm maximum height) and you can put only 92mm fans on it. 120mm fan sends cold air that comes from edges of the case, so it's sort of crucial to have. 80mm fan is for taking out the hot air from the back of the case. According to BitFenix, you can install only one 80mm fan either on top or bottom, but i found out that you easily instal two fans without any modding, you just don't have to screw the upper and lower corners of fans, but i think that you can somehow secure them with anti vibration mounts

Bluetooth won't work, RF on the other hand should. If it requires an RF dongle it should work. Bluetooth devices usually require some drivers to be loaded first, which usually won't work. My wireless mouse for example does work perfectly well in RF mode in BIOS.