Salticid

I'd wondered about the possibility of it being the surge protector or something...  It's certainly a thought.  May give it a try.
I went all morning without an incident.  Was getting confident so over lunch fired up a game to try and push and see if it was really stable.
About 15 minutes and it was triggered again.
Couple of afterburner shots showing the power drop on both CPU and GPU.  There are no temp or usage spikes before it drops and it doesn't drop enough to shut the machine off, but just enough for the monitors to blank and the game video to not reload.
There is a quick spike after everything comes back up.
The drop always lasts 2 seconds and something I'm beginning to notice is it seems to be happening the same 2 seconds in a minute when it does happen.  So now I'm not certain if the hour and minute is also the same, and have started a log.  We shall see and hopefully I get this sorted before I have enough of a list to see there's a real pattern.

So the issue isn't that software I had installed and it doesn't appear to be driver.  But it's just weird to me that it's recent.
I'm going to try disabling my GPU and run off the integrated graphics now, see if that works.  And if I manage it I'll see if it happens again.

I'd wondered about the possibility of it being the surge protector or something...  It's certainly a thought.  May give it a try.
I went all morning without an incident.  Was getting confident so over lunch fired up a game to try and push and see if it was really stable.
About 15 minutes and it was triggered again.
Couple of afterburner shots showing the power drop on both CPU and GPU.  There are no temp or usage spikes before it drops and it doesn't drop enough to shut the machine off, but just enough for the monitors to blank and the game video to not reload.
There is a quick spike after everything comes back up.
The drop always lasts 2 seconds and something I'm beginning to notice is it seems to be happening the same 2 seconds in a minute when it does happen.  So now I'm not certain if the hour and minute is also the same, and have started a log.  We shall see and hopefully I get this sorted before I have enough of a list to see there's a real pattern.

So the issue isn't that software I had installed and it doesn't appear to be driver.  But it's just weird to me that it's recent.
I'm going to try disabling my GPU and run off the integrated graphics now, see if that works.  And if I manage it I'll see if it happens again.

Thank you!  I figured because you mentioned stress testing the RAM that Prime95 would be better, but I'm happier running Memtest unwatched overnight if need be.

I just updated to the latest BIOS.  Hopefully that fixes it and that's that.  Fingers crossed!  If I have any issues tonight I will run Memtest overnight and see if it comes up with anything.

you can get tools for cutting glass, some are better than others, Glass is the best material tbh for clarity. You can buy 90 degree bent glass. I've just skimmed the thread but you said PETG is hard and brittle, that is incorrect, PETG is softer than Acrylic, you can hit PETG with a hammer and it won't shatter, acrylic will. People used to say PETG was better as it could flex further than acrylic, this forced B Neg to make a video on the subject showing him bending Acrylic tubing to debunk the fragility of the material.
 
It really isn't that difficult to do at all. Bending PETG is easier than Acrylic and you can buy glass pre-bent, Mayhems offered a service to bend glass for you, you could send you petg or acrylic tubes and they would mimic them in glass.
 
I've planned and planned, it never, and i mean ever goes to plan, you will always need to adapt.
 
Stuff at hardware stores is lined with plasticiser so please don't recommend this to new watercoolers. It will gum up their loops and they won't understand why, then probably blame it on the coolant used.
 
There.... some wrongs corrected. 

Wow!  Nice!
They look great!  Like entirely different fittings.  It always amazes me what natural cleaners can do on their own.
 
I know I probably could have used a stronger Vinegar solution on my rads, but I was super cautious of vinegar against copper.  And my rads were new, I was just rinsing out flux particles and manufacturing oil.  A lighter solution is fine for something that small.
 
I've heard of Mayhem's Blitz kit, and I looked for it.  But similar to Gorange, the cost to benefit ratio for me, with spanking new EK rads, did not seem worth it.  Plenty of people flush new rads as I did and if they take the time and really do it, they're just fine.  
 
Now, when I do my first maintenance and probably change my color, that will be a different matter.  I wholly intend to use Blitz then.  And I agree it would do Gorange better, if they were able to get it easily.

I can answer some questions...  but really, just spend some time reading around and I would very much suggest watching some guides on YouTube from people like Linus, Paul's Hardware, Jayztwocents.  You'll get your answers really fast that way, from pro modders and water cooling builders.
 
Regarding Galvanic Corrosion
There is no way to avoid this completely, and no way to completely avoid mixing metals just a little.  Probably the best thing you can try is to stick with a single manufacturer for all your components, like EK, but even then you're going to run into something like with the fittings - Copper is often considered too soft and is too expensive for fittings.  
 
Reducing the amount of mixed metals as much as you can is the best you can hope for.  That means sticking where at all possible to Nickle Plating and pure copper.
 
So, Copper or Nickle Plated Copper for your contact plate(s) on your water block(s).  Nickle Plating on your fittings.  The insides of Rads and the fins of rads are almost always going to be copper.  There maybe some brass  used, but if so then only in areas that will not contact water - if you're using a reputable company.
 
If you see parts that have aluminum, look for 3 things.
First, is the aluminum part potentially going to contact the liquid in the loop?  If no, such as in the housing of the Rad - which is a removable sleeve the Rad sits in - or the cap ring of a compression fitting, then don't worry about it.
 
Second, is the Aluminum Anodised?  If so, then that is a protective coating that combats galvanic corrosion.  If the anodized aluminum is in contact with the water in the loop, you should make sure to perform regular maintenance and watch it carefully for signs of corrosion, but if you're buying from a company like EK, you shouldn't find any aluminum, anodized or not, in contact with the water - UNLESS it's one of their aluminum build kits.
 
Third, is it an aluminum based build kit?  If so, you will find that ALL parts: contact plates, fittings, rads... will be aluminum.  These are OK, as they don't mix in any other metals with the aluminum.
 
Any liquid you use in your loop should have anti-corrosives in it.  Pre-mixes or concentrates to be mixed with distilled water will already have that.  If you only use distilled water you will need to add it and a biocide yourself.  This will help to combat what amount of galvanic corrosion you can't avoid simply because of the mix of Nickle and Copper.  But these two are only lightly reactive to each other, which is why it's common to see them mixed together in loop components.  So as long as you run a regular maintenance, you should be just fine.
 
Trust good and well tested companies like EK, they will not steer you wrong when it comes to metals.  They have the reputation they have for a reason.  If this is what they recommended for you, then it is a good configuration.

(I know I keep mentioning EK, but that's because I have the most experience with them.  There are several other excellent names in water cooling too.  Just make sure you pick a good, trusted name that's been doing this for a while.)
 
Oh, lastly, EVGA water blocks are indeed nickle plated copper contact plates, yes.
 
Radiator Thickness
There is a point of diminishing return.  The thicker the radiator, the more air flow resistance you have - this is also true of more fins per square inch.  Once you move into thicker than base Rads, you need to make sure your fans are Static Pressure.  The rule of thumb I've seen is at least 1 120 per component cooled, or a 240 if your component is known to run hot, and/or you plan to OC.
 
Doubling the width of the Rad essentially adds that second 120.  But it can look heavier and/or cause clearance problems, and as stated the thicker rad has more airflow restriction.
 
Thermodynamics states that more surface area with more even and easy air flow gets you the best heat transfer.  So if you can, I would go for the thinner Rad(s) with more length up to as much as you need (or want).  I'm using 2 360's but then I expect to eventually upgrade to cooling more items on my board.
 
So, how you choose to configure your Rads, what you choose to use, is largely up to your actual cooling needs, if you want to plan for more expansion later, how much space you have to build in and how you want it to look.
 
All that said, your Rads are tertiary in cooling importance, at least in my book. 
 
Most important is the thermal transfer from your CPU/GPU heat spreader to the contact plate of your water block, and the thermal pads over other components on your Graphics card/motherboard (if using a monoblock etc).  If this is not good, then nothing else in your system is going to help.  I would suggest using the paste that EK gives you - they usually include Thermal Grizzly, which I am kind of a fangirl for.
 
Second in importance is the fans.  If your fans are not effectively getting air over the fins of your Rad, then the Rad can't work well.  But you state you have your fans sorted, so moving on.
 
Pumps
Manufacturers of blocks and reservoirs etc, like EK, all basically buy pumps from the same couple of manufacturers.  No one else makes them.  The Water Cooling Brand then sticks them to a cover and sometimes in a housing with their own branding on that part.  So it doesn't matter where you buy your pump from, if you get a D5 pump from EK it's the same D5 pump pretty much anyone else offers.  Same if it's a DDC. 
 
Both run relatively silent, from what I'm told... I have a D5 and set to speed setting 4 it's downright silent - but that's also with a 'silencer' housing over it and padding between the mounting and the place on the case it's mounted.  Consider padding when you mount yours, and if you get a D5 getting a silencing housing if the company you buy from offers one.  
 
IDK if a DDC pump can get a silencing housing, because they require (or at the very least should have) a heatsink, because they run hot.  Consider this if you're looking at a DDC, because this adds some cost. But then so does a silence housing on a D5.
 
What's important to consider for Pumps is:
Head Pressure - this is more important than flow rate for your loop.  The more resistance in your loop - meaning the more 90 degree turns, more components cooled, and more height the pump has to push upwards to, the more head pressure you should have.  D5s have less head pressure than DDCs
 
Flow Rate - The speed of water through your loop doesn't actually make a whole lot of difference in your temps after a certain point, so a very high flow rate isn't actually much of a boost over a moderate and strong flow rate that is consistent.Head pressure actually does help more because it helps to make sure all areas of your loop are filled, and air pushed out.  There is actual test data out there proving this.  That said, D5s have better flow rate than DDCs
 
Is the Pump PWM? - It sounds like you want to be able to easily control your pump speed from your computer depending on your need and what you're working on.  So in this case you should make sure to get one that is PWM capable.  Otherwise you will need to set it to a single speed or find a way to mount it such that you can access the pump speed dial at the very bottom of the thing with a screwdriver - not easy to do. 
 
That said, as mentioned above, the flow speed of the liquid doesn't actually make much difference here.  What you actually want to control/change more than pump flow is your fan speed over the Rads. So maybe spending extra on PWM isn't so important and you might want to spend that extra on a flow monitor.  I will say that with the silence kit and padding on my D5, it wouldn't matter what speed setting I have it on for noise.  Thing is dead silent set to 4, all I hear is fan and even those are super quiet. 
 
But if PWM is important to you then get it.  EK makes them.  The only reason I didn't get it is I couldn't get an aio res/pump kit from them with a res in the size I wanted, and it would have cost me an extra $100 to get the extra res tube.  So I went with something less expensive for now and figure I'll upgrade later.  In the meantime, I do not regret my choice.
 
I think I hit most of the major points here.  If I have more time later (no guarantee I will) and you want me to I can try and find some vids to support some of this, but again I recommend you go find them.  They're easy to find, interesting, and easy to watch.  Very informative.  ?

Nice work!  Love the curves!

Ok so after many new adventures, here is how my loop looks like ! 
Im really glad of the results and I’d really like to thank you all for helping out in this challenge which I loved !!!

In no way shape or form could I ever be considered a pro builder.  ?
I do have a few friends who do custom builds for extra money tho and I consider them pros.
 
It's super funny the things one can forget just because you're so familiar with a workflow you're acting on autopilot.
Well, sometimes only funny after some time and reflection but you get my point.  LOL
 
We absolutely do all make mistakes!  Hopefully they don't end up being too expensive more often than not.  I'm sorry to hear about your CPU....  that's a lot of money.

I just proceeded following manufacturer instructions. 
I got the EVGA waterblock to go with the card because they provide explicit instructions and as long as you follow them your warranty is not voided in switching cooling methods.  So, just followed their instructions.  But that's why I figured those specific chokes needed cooling.
 
Considering the amount of TIM on the GPU... I'm in favor of them just super overdoing things.  LOL

I know you're not asking me, and certainly wait for Syn, but I would suggest that no, you remove the pads from areas they don't need to be. 
Because the added millimeter or so of padding there will effect the contact of the thermal pads you put on the chips that need them, meaning they don't contact the plate or don't contact it well, making them less effective or not effective at all.
 
The pads provided by my card manufacturer were of different thicknesses depending where they sit on the board, thus allowing them all to have full contact.

also Chokes aren't chips, they're just a big hunk of Coil inside



Like this

The light gray squares on the PCB are called Chokes, and they do not need to be cooled, you can keep the pads on them if you want, but it won't affect anything, what you want to cool are the black chips which i showed above

Ok so this is how the first tube try looks like ! It seems to be perfectly sealed. When i pull nothing comes off.
 
Any thoughts ?
 
I'm probably going to do the same thing with the other tube because I enjoy how it looks like
 

For peace of mind, just get a custom loop

Here we are, this is what it looks like inside

Makes sense on the face of it, but look at it this way.  Sometimes upgrades are spur of the moment. You get a bonus at work or a gift of some money and find some higher speed RAM on sale...  Or a new SSD/HDD you could add to your system and heck you could use the space....  Why not?
 
Unless a component is water cooled, you really do not want to have to remove your pipes and drain your loop just to quickly upgrade it.  It's a best practice. 
 
Ideally, once this loop is in place you want to keep it there for as long as possible until you have to take out and then re-seat tubes or replace a tube/bend for some reason.  Maintenance should really only require a flush - possibly with blitz if needed - and then changing out your fluid.  You should have full maintenance access to your board and any components and headers on it without messing with your loop.  Unseating and re-seating tubes can put wear and tear on the o-rings and seals as well.
 
I can't stress enough to not fill and leak test with your Motherboard plugged into the PSU.  Clearance to unplug and plug that alone should be reason to give yourself enough space there, even if you think you'll keep that RAM forever and the likelihood of any stick failing is almost zero.
 
I hear you on the bends the Thermaltake kit gives.  I wasn't much of a fan either, and yes I felt the same about the 90 degree not actually ending up a true 90 degree.  Not sure what that is.  I did find the cutter far superior to what I bought at the local hardware store though, and I also found the chamfer tool very helpful.
 
Really looking forward to seeing what you do.  It's so much work and planning but so rewarding.

@W-L , Thank you so much for all your feedback and thoughts!
 
I proceeded over the weekend, though I did end up having to re-bend 2 of the 3 original runs I was having issue with - mainly for aesthetics and in once case also to improve fit a bit.  Some of the tube was definitely that little bit out of spec but not all of it was.
 
To get a lubricant like Molykote I would have to order online and wait or be able to make it to a plumbing supply store near me, which is not possible because my commute and their hours just don't mesh.  That said, it sounds like an ideal solution had I planned ahead for that.
 
Petroleum Jelly, or Vaseline, was something I initially considered, but because that's viscous and doesn't dissolve in water, that was a really big concern for me if a little of it somehow got into my loop - those block channels are so tiny, I can imagine it causing an ugly clog.
 
I decided to steer clear of soap/ soapy water.  There's the tacky effect I was getting when bending and fitting my tubes as the soap dried, and yeah, I had a similar thought about suds in the loop if any got in as well.  Sure I could run a rinse, but what a PITA.  Seems less than practical... idk.  Especially when it didn't work as well as alternatives.  Maybe if that's all you have access to?
 
I had great success with the water based lubricant.  To be blunt, I used KY.  Meant to be safe with any plastics, rubber and acrylics, sterile with no growth promoters, and completely water soluble in case of entry into the loop.
 
It seems ironic considering the abundance of bad innuendo jokes liquid cooling, and custom loops in particular, is prone to.  But, it really works, and is a super accessible option in a pinch.
 
@Bitter , I wouldn't use boiling water for that...  It just feels wrong and like it could damage the structure of the tubing, if not over-soften it for such a purpose.  When I have seen people mention heating the end of the tube in order to get it into a to-tight fitting, I have seen people recommend using a hair dryer - not even the heat gun as you run the risk of making it too soft.  You need to maintain almost full rigidity to the tube, making it just pliable enough to constrict on the OD for the tight fitting but staying strong enough to be able to push into the fitting and keep it's shape and ID.
 
The very delicate nature of maintaining that balance so that it's actually effective and doesn't completely backfire is the reason I felt it was a "last ditch" solution and wanted to avoid trying it.  Personally, I thankfully didn't end up having to try it.
 
SO, update:
 
I finished my lines over the weekend and started my fill/leak test last night.
Here are a couple of pics - note the LEDs and fans are plugged into perif sata cables and are the only things plugged in aside from the water pump at this time. I haven't set the LEDs to anything specific yet, they're running in a stock loop right now.  I mainly got them for the UV part of the strip.