Mateyyy

The H510 is really poor in terms of airflow, mainly because of its very restrictive front panel. Depending on what other components you are using however (particularly the GPU), it shouldn't be that big of a problem. If all you want is something quiet for your CPU, then the Dark Rock 4 should be a great option and alternative to the NH-U12S.

I mean, the U12A is the stronger performer cooling-wise, but even something like an U9S would work perfectly fine. We're talking about a ~60-70W chip here, it really doesn't put out that much heat. So either would work fine. I'd just make sure that you get a case that has good airflow, instead of focusing strictly on getting the biggest heatsink possible for the your 3600. There are also cheaper alternatives you could go with, other than Noctua's offerings, like Arctic's Freezer 34 and be quiet's Pure Rock 2 (and sometimes even be quiet's Dark Rock coolers can be had for cheaper than their Noctua alternatives, like the Dark Rock 4 or Dark Rock Slim).

I'd go for the 3600 CL16 kit, unless the 4000 one is somehow cheaper. 4000 CL17 isn't really that much better than 3600 CL16 in terms of latency, and your CPU most likely won't be able to hit 2000MHz on the FCLK, which would drop performance drastically or would require you to downclock the RAM.

Well, there are several factors that come into play. I'd say that for gaming, under ideal conditions, a 10600K and maybe even a 10400 would be faster than a 3600. In this case however, since the i5 would be limited to 2666MHz memory, I'd say it's at best in the same ballpark as a 3600. If you do end up going with a B460 board, then the 10400F would also be a decent choice. In fact, it really shouldn't be too far off a 10600K in the real world. How are the AMD alternatives priced for you locally, compared to Intel? As in B450/A520 chipset motherboards, and the Ryzen 3600?

B460 boards don't natively support Rocket Lake-S CPUs, so you would have to go with the 10600K, between the two. Ideally I'd get a Z490/B560 board which allows higher memory speeds (you'll be limited to 2666MHz with the 10600K on B460), or just go with something like a Ryzen 3600 and a cheap A520/B450/B550 board, but if you already own that motherboard and can't return/sell it, the 10600K should work fine depending on what you plan on doing.

A good 550W/650W PSU will power a 5600X and 3060Ti without any problems, so the Straight Power 11 650W should work just fine. Also, are you set on those other components? Namely that board is super overpriced for what it is, and you could make better use of that money in the storage department.

For monitors, I use either a wool duster or a microfibre cloth with a tiny bit of water, depending on whether there's only a bit of dust or there's actual marks on the displays. For desk mats, I use water, powdered detergent and a sponge. Most of the time I'll just use a lint roller to take most of the dust off it though.

Yes, it should work fine with a 3600. As mentioned previously, make sure you update the BIOS to a recent enough version beforehand, if you haven't already.

Your PSU shouldn't have any problems powering an RTX 3080 and 5800X, so I would suggest troubleshooting other components first, before concluding that the PSU is faulty. Have you tried running any stability tests for the CPU/RAM (Linpack Xtreme, Prime95, MemTest, etc.)? Have you tried disabling XMP/DOCP (assuming you had enabled it prior)? Have you checked temperatures for the CPU and other components, using HWiNFO64?

You might notice a marginal improvement by getting something like TG Kryonaut, though nothing major. Guru3D has tested both Kryonaut and be quiet's DC1 TIM (which I'm assuming is what they include with their coolers), and in their testing, the reported CPU temperature dropped by 2.5C by going with Kryonaut from DC1: So... I wouldn't say it's really worth it. In general, differences between good TIMs aren't really that notable, and you're very unlikely to actually notice a difference in the real world. Though having some spare thermal paste around could come in handy if you need to repaste some other component down the line. Conductonaut does show a more meaningful improvement in temperature, but if you ask me, it's not worth the hassle of having to deal with liquid metal. Those temperatures could be worse, to be fair. The 5800X is quite a warm running chip, and the Shadow Rock TF2 isn't exactly a cooling powerhouse per se. Are you getting these temps with undervolting, or at stock?

Something like an NH-U14S TR4-SP3 is what you should be looking at. I think fitting six modern GPUs, even in a full tower, will be kind of a problem, so probably not.

Oh, apparently if you block people on the forum they can't see images you post? Interesting.

No, the extra 4-pin isn't required if you're just overclocking on ambient cooling (air/water).

Either of the following should be good picks, for under $200: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/9htQzy/be-quiet-straight-power-11-750w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-bn283 https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/6Y66Mp/corsair-rm-2019-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020195-na https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/79tQzy/corsair-rmx-2018-750w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020179-na https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/VgQG3C/corsair-rmx-2018-850w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020180-na That is nonsense. 1000W for a 3080 and 5800X will be completely pointless, and a PSU having Corsair's or Seasonic's logo on it doesn't tell a thing about its actual quality.