Caius Filimon

I'm hoping others could share in my disappointment and disgust with the phone designs of today.
 
There's now officially (to my knowledge) no higher-end phone line that is made of a full metal unibody.
 
The absolutely brain dead designers of the Black Shark 3 release a cooling fan to be slapped on the damn GLASS back of their phones.
 
Even the Red Magic series has gone to crap; their latest '5G' garbage is glass-backed. What's the point of the cooling fan then? A fully passively cooled phone with an aluminium back is far better at keeping the phone cool than a pitiful cooling fan. And then they also reduce the battery size of this new model. 
 
And with that we see the death of the last phone line with high end chipsets that has a metal unibody.
 
I am also a disappointed that Linus didn't address this in his vid on the Red Magic 5G.
 
And so, anyone else sharing these worries?
 
What is the point of having phones made of a material that is more brittle, far worse at keeping the chipset cool, is slippery, and to me absolutely does not feel better or more premium in the hand than metal?
 
And do any of you know of other metal unibody phones that house anything better than a snapdragon 855 or kirin 980 and above?
 
 
 

Understood. If you are handy in CAD and woodworking, you could build your own....

Have you considered something like a Lunchbox PC?
Best of both worlds. Desktop upgradability with laptop portability.
https://www.theportablepc.com/
 

i edited:
 
 
 
Also did  an additional test: opening text document 70w, watching video from ssd 105w.
 
cpu is stock though, so you could probably shave of a couple of watts for  sure.
Still any moderately heavy workload will  probably be too much, also as far i know simply booting will  spike power usage a lot.  
 
but yes, it would still be interesting if you  actually try to run it from battery, i just  don't have too many hopes lol, 150 or even 200w i could see it working though.  

yeah...  but the  battery  isn't necessarily the issue, it's that the card simply won't work given  a too low voltage .
 
So anyway i was curious, with the lowest undervolt i can do my card maxed out at 55w watching 1080p youtube videos. . generally hovered around 20w, so  we're still at 55w , with undervolt..
there isn't a lot of headroom here , it'll will  probably work but  heavily depends on workloads ..  watching youtube, maybe, playing games, most  likely not, making a simple text document, probably very much possible.
 
it really  just  depends on what you intend doing...
 
a way to see  total wattage would probably help  to simulate this , some psus show this information for example.
 
 
edit: r5 3600 , rtx 3070 (undervolted)
 
720p youtube video 
 
cpu 40w
gpu 57w
 
total power 125w 
 
 
like , you'll get it to post, but  there's just  no headroom?
 

I've just never gone so low myself...
Id presume the curve holds up....

Hit Control-F in MSI Afterburner.
 
The Frequency/Voltage curve should show.
 
Control-Click the furthest right dot and move down.
using CNTL-CLICK it should move the whole bar from the right point.
*might be SHIFT, pretty sure its CNTL...
 
You can also swing the curve on the left side afterwards with CNTL-CLICK methods 
 
Unknown Adverse affects as I've not done it as far as you probably need to...
You'd be better off with a lowerend GPU.

EVGA Precision supports undervolting EVGA cards in their settings menu, you should try that. MSI Afterburner also has it but i dont know if its reliable way to undervolting.

But you don't know what either the majority or the minority want, do you? All you observe are fashion trends on the manufacturer side.
Surely enough, if they copy each other inside a given market segment, whatever phone people buy in that segment will have the same characteristics, wouldn't it? Not exactly a celan experiment on consumer preferences, I would say.

Not me. I actually want phones with plastic, soft-touch backs. It's cheaper to manufacture, so I'm not paying extra just for "cool" looks -- that I don't even care about! -- and it has no issue with radio-transmissions passing through, and plastic can even be made self-healing nowadays, so scratches can just simply disappear within a few days.

If you don’t care for scratch resistance, this would actually be quite easy. Softer materials absorb impact a lot better. With a thick plastic or rubber bezel, and plastic outer layer for the display with a mm or two of gap, the display would be quite well protected. 
 
Though people don’t like looking at scratches much. Though a tempered glass screen protector would alleviate scratching to the plastic underneath, and be easily replaced in the event of damage. Just, don’t use the phone without it. 😛
 

Yes apparently. Who doesnt like spider webs on their phone?

Can recycle glass fairly easily. plastic is a lot harder. Plus plastic is made of oil, glass isn't

From reasonable heights most phones will survive a drop. I launched my XR on more than one occasion on concrete (by accident) and all I got was some dents in the aluminium, glass was fine. 

The Fractal Design Node 202 is the direct competitor to the RVZ series. That, or an ML08 also from silverstone. 

I'm currently using a BlackBerry KeyONE. I *love* it. Yeah the battery can't be replaced, and that sucks (well, not easily anyway) but the keyboard makes up for that. Since I use my phone for phone stuff 9calls, texts), having the most powerful CPU isn't critical to me.

Right there with you. I blame the makers copying slavishly anything that Apple does. 
Screw that noise. Hate Apple and what they've done by turning everything into a disposable toy.
 
Give me a user replaceable battery and a real qwerty keyboard on my phone and I"m happy. Everything else is secondary.
 

Hi everyone,
 
I am thinking of finding a lighter case for my setup that has virtually the exact same features as the RVZ03.
 
I believe that internal layout to be the most space efficient one possible for zero-compromise setups.
 
This case is around 3.8kg however, which I find to be absurdly heavy. I don't need a tank; just a case to keep the components from shorting and being crushed too easily when backpacking it when flying around inter-continentaly without adding pointless weight to it just so I stress about whether I'd be weighed at the gate.
 
Ideally, I would like the exact same thing but just not made of heavy ass steel. I would be willing to change from an ATX to an SFX PSU if needed. 
 
The only requirements would be the ability to fit a 2.75 slot GPU (even if unofficially) like my 2070 XC Ultra (EVGA; the thicc boi) and two fan holes on the side of the GPU to which I can screw in two fans on the outside of the case. (Hot tip: I attach 2 mining rig fans on the outside of the case so I get 55 Celsius on the GPU when pushing the power limit all the way up to 129% it's so worthwhile if you game with headphones).
 
Any recommendations would be hugely appreciated. Thank you very much in advance!
 
 
 
 

The likely reason why that's there is to prevent any solder points from touching the chassis. So if you're going to take it off, take off only what you need and no more.

thats impressive. If you want to mod your case & not too concerned about aesthetics, you could dremel the case to make the side grill larger to accommodate the mining fans. And to mount them, you could drill appropriate holes & use screw / washer / nut combos to secure it 

Do you know what the amperage of those fans are? I think most fan headers give about ~1A & most 120mm fans pull ~0.3A

1. I can't guarantee that they'll fit if you bend them. Some pcie cables are more flexible than others - i guess it depends on what comes with your psu. Since you already have the psu, maybe play with the cables and see if you can bend them down to a 14mm tall right angle.
 
2. I guess in theory you could mount some fans on the outside. I'm not sure if that grill is large enough to fit 2 120mm fans, i can't find the dimensions of the grill anywhere. Also want to say zip ties aren't the best mounting mechanism - you could get a lot of rattle/vibration from zip ties.
With the 2 fans in the front, and the opening on the side for the gpu to pull cool air, i doubt you'll actually need extra fans there. I will recommend dust filters for a case like that though - magnetic ones will mount the easiest 
Lastly, I don't know how many fan headers you have - mITX boards tend to only have 2 or 3. This is something to consider when you're looking at adding fans - you may need to buy a fan hub or splitter.

another thought i just had about height restrictions was the pcie power cables at the top of the card. That might be an issue with only 14-15mm of wiggle room.
You may want to get some 90 degree angle pcie cables. Something like this. I was going to recommend the EVGA Powerlink, but this adds an extra ~26mm to the top so that wouldn't fit.

The height should be fine if max allowed is 157. It's gonna be compatible with your motherboard, no need to worry about that. The only thing I'd be concerned about in a mini ITX build is if the card is going to be too long 

Its my understanding that not having the fan sealed to the top of the heatsink makes a HUGE difference as the intent is to have positive air pressure across the fins forcing it to cool efficiently. 

Also, if the fan has to blow through holes in the case that would make a massive difference to the air pressure, the fan has to work so much harder to force air through the restriction making it louder and the peak flow much worse.

Even with heatpipes, the efficiency is poor if you are relying mostly on cooling the top of the heatsink vs forcing air right down the full length.  Any air escaping above the heatsink will make a big difference to the air pressure and reduce cooling performance, although how much I'm not sure.

You will notice off-the-shelf coolers usually have shrouds so ALL the air is forced over the heatsink, for that reason.