Zakara

Looks fine to me. I would wait for the rtx 3000 series though. I find I always hang on to CPU's, RAM and Mobo's the longest with the graphics card as the only periodic upgrade as that's where your biggest performance jump will come from in games. The rig thats in my sig has stayed the same since I built it back in early 2015 so I definitely got my moneys worth out of the platform.
 
With that said I would actually probably drop down one tier on the GPU and set aside that money for a new GPU in the future as chances are the extra money that you spend on the absolute top tier car could actually be a good chunk of the next GPU upgrade. Ill use the price delta in my region ( your mileage may vary) the cheapest 2080 super is 719.99 CAD where as the lowest price 2080ti 1399.99 CAD. So essentially you could buy another brand new GPU for extra that you spent on the top tier. So if you really want to future proof the system go to a RTX 3080 equivalent and then purchase a RTX 4080 equivalent when that comes out. 
 
We don't know official pricing for the 3000 series yet but it should follow a similar (ish) pricing scheme so this should still hold true.

since u have the budget , try getting a rtx 3090

A Corsair RM750x or a Straight Power equivalent. As you said, it would be best to wait for nVidia to officially confirm power consumption and then purchase.

AXi, HXi, RMi series from Corsair if you wan't to stick with them, and splurge on some pretty CableMod cables.

Hey!
 
Thanks for the info! I think the UMC22 looks like a much better option as you are right, I have no need for a mixer and decided against the original interface I linked. I'm familiar with podcastage and have been watching some of his videos to learn more... or try to.
 
I'll swap out the mixer in my order I had before for the UMC22 as its cheap and simple.
 
Really appreciate the information, helps out a lot!
 
Thanks Sloth!
 
Jack

I have no direct experience with the Scarlett solo, but I know it's well liked. My understanding is that is has a USB interface built in, so it should be
Mic <--> Interface <--> PC.
 
A quick look at setup videos seems to confirm this.

Most if not all arms will include a 5/8"-27 thread mount with a 3/8"-5/8"screw adapter, which should interface with a shock mount. If you can pardon the dust, and the flash picture quality (it's very early morning for me), this is what's going on between the arm and the shock mount
 


There are direct thread options available, however I have no experience with them (at all, never even looked at one), so I can't make comment.

I've got something very similar to what you're looking at.

I run:
AT2020
Xenyx 502
Neewer shock mount
An OMPF-33 pop screen
LyxPro XLR cable
and a UCA222 as my interface
these between the mixer and the interface
And your choice of generic Chinese arm. I'm using one from Dragonpad,(though it's very likely that a large volume of these come from the same location with a different name attached to them)

 
I've been running it since ~mid 2014, and while it's still technically functioning, I can't recommend anything from Behringer in good faith. It's been a constant stream of issues with my 502, least of which the condenser being worth nothing. My volume level will fluctuate at will and require manual intervention on a near-daily basis. the UCA222 has needed to be replaced twice.

I feel you'd be better off with something like a Scarlett Solo as your interface, bypassing a mixer if you don't have a need to control levels.

There are millions of different fans out there, the best is ofcourse Noctua, but pretty expensive sometimes.
I have 4 Corsair ML120 PRO, maglev fans and they do me very good. Not a lot of sound, and have great cooling potential.
Basically, Noctua is best, Corsair comes 2nd for me.
LED fans are like mjeh.
You don´t loose anything but getting them really, usually a bit more expensive, but if you buy from one of the bigger brands you wont loose performance atleast.
 

The silent wings 3 from be quiet are nice case fans. Corsair ML or sp high performance fans fir the radiator. 

Did you do a  completely clean OS install (not a reset), with an updated BIOS and the latest chipset drivers from AMD from their website?

No problems in sight, looks like a pretty good build.

Yup you can overclock it too

Five hours isn't always enough time to find any stability issues. Try stress testing for 24-48 hours.

Yeah. It's one of the top X370 boards on the market, paul's hardware made this video saying how great it was for ryzen:
 

I would guess the vrms are getting hot and throttling, dropping enough voltage to cause a crash. b350 boards aren't built well enough to handle r7 cpus so if you can return that b350 board and get this or better https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qMdFf7/asus-prime-x370-pro-atx-am4-motherboard-prime-x370-pro 

You can probably get away with a 650w but i would recommend a 750w. 850w is a little overkill.
Your CPU cooler is fine unless you are going to be doing overclocking, then you might want a better one.

I'd replace the PSU not because of wattage but rather because age. If it's about 5 years old, like the rest of the system, I'd use it as a back-up rather than a main.