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Semper

Member
  • Content Count

    2,348
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About Semper

  • Title
    Professional Potato
  • Birthday Dec 01, 1985

Profile Information

  • Location
    California (very much not by choice)
  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 5800x
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte X570 Aorus Master
  • RAM
    Crucial Ballistix 2x 16GB
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC2 w/ EK block
  • Case
    Phanteks Evolv X
  • Storage
    1x Seagate Barracuda 2TB | 1x Samsung 980 PRO 500GB | 1x MX500 1TB | 1x Crucial P2 2TB
  • PSU
    Seasonic PRIME Ultra 750w Titanium
  • Display(s)
    1x Aorus AD27QD | 1x Dell S2716DG
  • Cooling
    XSPC/EK/Bitspower loop
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 RGB Rapidfire
  • Mouse
    Corsair Scimitar PRO
  • Sound
    Schiit Fulla / Audeze LCD-1 / PEACE EQ
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

2,606 profile views
  1. open up a powershell terminal (WIN + X -> Windows Powershell) and run an SFC check SFC /scannow see if it kicks back any errors, if it does, see if it's able to correct them, and see if the issue persists.
  2. Generally, just pick one. They're all going to have similar construction quality properties at a given price point. Something at the $25 price point isn't going to be made as well as something at the $250 price point Neewer is a good place to start. https://neewer.com/products/microphones-accessories-40063970
  3. In regards to this specific section, yes, Gallium will very quickly eat through aluminum. Copper, however, no. It will penetrate the surface and discolor/ mark the copper, however it will not destroy it, nor does this permeation appear to negatively, or positively, impact thermal performance. I ran thermal paste both under (delid) and atop of my 4790k on an EKWB copper block for several years with no issue. Long term testing by multiple outlets I'd consider reliable shows similar results. Matter of fact, I'm still using the same block for my 5800x, and it's rocking along perfectly okay.
  4. Entirely false advertising, sorry. It's the typical "1000% better" or "moar biggerrer number is more bestesterer" chinesium. It'll perform on par with a more well established name at best. It'll under perform in all likeliness.
  5. If you have a clear block on top of anything in your loop, you'll be able to see evidence of mild growth in the low-flow corners and/or around the fins. If you don't, removing the cold plate/block top will show you what's going on. If it's substantial growth, you'll see it in your reservoir, your tubing, and your block(s), it will almost never reside exclusively in your radiator. Often times the fluid itself will show discoloration and particulate matter. (note, some coolants do have a natural discoloration to them even when new) It's advised against using vinegar on anything nickel plate
  6. 1. Shouldn't be necessary, unless you've had growth in your loop. Assuming your loop was cleaned properly before initial use, there's no reason to introduce vinegar now. 2. Cleaning recommendations vary based upon fluid type. General rule of thumb is a good flush every 12 months. Some will recommend 24 months, some six months. some are as little as a few days (PrimoChill Vue, for example). If you're switching from a dyed liquid to a clear, you will want to remove every component, open everything you can, and scrub it all. You'll get rid of most of the dye, but it's nigh impossible to get
  7. If this is your working plan, skip the chassis. go with an open air test bench style platform. add fans to the radiator, use a box style fan for everything else. I see no reason to do this, however. If you've any level of respectable cooling, it shouldn't matter if it's two hours or 24 when it comes to games, you should be staying cool enough to run normally. What temperature you'll be running will be entirely relative to your ambient temperatures. If your ambient temps are above 30°, no, you will never achieve anything at or below ambient without more exotic cooling plans.
  8. First question is going to be - are they installed so that you're running in dual channel? In most situations, that will be the A2/B2 ram slots, second and fourth slots in relation to closest -> furthest to the CPU. (should be the gray slots on the DS3H). Edit: looks as though you're having this addressed in your other topic. I'll leave this as is and encourage you to continue support over there.
  9. So long as you're willing to put in some work setting it up, OpenRGB replaces the universally recognized RGB-control-wrapped-bloatware that all board manufacturers call "software" with something that's actually competent. https://openrgb.org/ https://github.com/Drumber/RemoteLight (plugin that will restore some of the ARGB functionality) I'm currently running an X570 Aorus Master (going on three weeks). Happy with the board thus far. It's given me zero issue in terms of core function. Default fan curve is a little aggressive (surprisingly). Skip the bloatware "feat
  10. It looks as though if you're running UEFI Revision 7C94v14 or newer, you have support for Ryzen 5000 series, so you'll have to check what you're running before you can confirm either way.
  11. The drive itself will not. The more startup programs that you have on that drive, however, will. Startup programs will slow the system down, startup programs on an HDD will be slower than an (most) SSD.
  12. The Security icon isn't going to be something that is easily disabled, nor should it be any meaningful increase to boot time. The Realtek audio service is going to be the drivers for your onboard audio. May or may not be essential depending on your use case. One Drive can be disabled if you don't use it.
  13. Depends on the interface and what output(s) it supports. The two I linked in my previous post will output to USB.
  14. XLR is a connector type. It's prevalent throughout the audio sphere, but you can get USB mics that do not require a DAC interface. XLR will require an interface, something like the MOTU M2 or the Scarlett Solo as two examples. XLR will look like this: For example: AT2020 USB: https://www.audio-technica.com/en-us/at2020-usb AT2020 XLR: https://www.audio-technica.com/en-us/at2020
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