ShadowChaser

Hopefully the picture shows up! I know on my cards there is a two pin temperature sensor output right next to the exhaust, but like you I'm not sure how to interface with that at all. I just used a 10k NTC thermistor wedged between two fins and called it a day 🙂 

In the VRM list, boards without heatsink and 4 phase of mosfets automatically get the lowest tier. $90 is definitely too much for what it has.

No, if you have Game Pass and buy a game on the Microsoft Store, you do not have to redownload anything.
Keep in mind that if you buy it through Steam though, you might have to actually redownload everything.

Quoting the OP in its entirety is driving me nuts.

So I'm going to be off to uni soon, and as such most of my (admittedly excessive) hardware collection needs to be disposed of. With that in mind I decided to throw together one last overkill (for me) setup before I tear everything down and start selling and what not. Please excuse the mess on my desk as this was done pretty much in the middle of packing but I ended up being pretty happy with the result. I've recreated the setup that I used for most of this past year, though 'used' is rather generous as the system sat untouched for many days at a time as I relied on my laptop for remote learning and work.
 
Final Setup:

 
Build:



 
This is the computer that I'll be bringing with me - I splurged hard on an NCase M1 and the accompanying Iceman pump/res block and Bykski DDC pump. This was a massive upgrade from my Node 202 for not a lot more space sacrificed.
Inside are the following components:
i7-8700K - 5.0Ghz @ 1.225v
Corsair H75 CLC
2x16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 2666
Asus Strix Z390I Gaming
MSI Aero GTX 1070 Ti - EKWB Titan X Pascal block + XSPC TX240 Radiator w/ 2x Silverstone FN123
Samsung 970 Evo 500GB + HP EX920 1TB
Corsair SF450 Gold + Sleeved Cable Set
Tubing is Primochill LRT Black.
 
The whole setup brings these into the mix:
Primary Monitor: AOC Agon AG241QX QHD 144hz Gaming monitor, which I am lucky enough to be able to bring with me
Secondary Displays: Asus VS247H-P FHD 60hz monitors, 5 year old displays that have outlived every single part of the original build I paired them with back in 2015
Peripherals:
Razer Blackwidow Ultimate Stealth w/ Razer Orange switches HIRALIY F300 Gaming Mouse, the cheapest RGB mouse I could afford at the time Blue Snowball iCE + Knox scissor arm & filter, which got me through all the voiceovers for documentaries I filmed for history class Wacom CTH-480, one of the best tablets ever made, it still makes me sad they aren't available anymore Creative A250 2.1 Speaker System, also the cheapest speakers I could get that weren't crap. Kingston 7-in-1 Card Reader WD Elements 8TB, used only for backups Mouse Windows Hello Webcam This is the setup that I've been living with, more or less, for the past few weeks and I'm sure to miss it. It's great for my 'purely a hobby' video editing and digital art workflow, while also being completely overbuilt for both single and multi-monitor gaming in my case. Feel free to roast me on my now rather outdated setup and the atrocious state it's in  

Basically one of the main reasons that I make hackintosh instead of buying Mac devices is thermal throttling; so basically with the same intel cpu I get better superior performance with MacOS. And catastrophic blunder can happen only with Mac devices, not with Hackintosh because most of the hackintoshers keep clone backup of the system and can restore if needed to. And if it can be installed once, it can be installed again. Anyway, yeah if ARM processor can keep the heat low as they generally are at the moment and can make the powerful chip; I will buy Mac devices instead of making hackintosh.
 
Yep, I am very hopeful about the Big Navi and after learning that iMac is gonna have support in it just made it super convenient for me!
 
 

Yeah, those were dark times for AMD
If you want to hackintosh I think you're limited to intel cpus and radeon gpus, which sucks. I guess Windows ain't for everyone but both of those problems you think you'll experience pretty much only arise when you stop maintaining your OS, which on a professional machine you ought to be doing anyway.
If you do want MacOS I guess Z490 makes sense if you don't need ECC capability and are ok with the RAM cap of 128GB. I think the Radeon VII is the best GPU that MacOS can support, but good luck finding one for a decent price.

I think Buildzoid said it best, there's no point buying a $750 'do it all' mobo when any of the $300 ones will be better if you know what you're using it for. I'm inclined to agree that buying a 3950X would make more sense, especially since GPU acceleration is becoming more and more important anyway in the video editing and transcoding space. The 10th gen desktop chips just aren't there in terms of efficiency and anyone buying them outside of strictly single threaded workloads needs to reevaluate their priorities, as I don't understand why it would be necessary to sacrifice so much in terms of cooling and power for them.

I posted here and tagged you hoping me sending it here would get it to you faster ❤️ 
 

Still waiting on that PCIe extension...
But I've been keeping busy in the meantime.
 
I've voided the warranty on my GPU by removing the DVI connector and a few fins
 
And I marked out and cut out the graphics outputs from the GPU
To think that an hour of chiselling with a utility blade only got me this far...

And I've yet to design a rear faceplate for the motheroard i/o...
 
It's also been made obvious that there won't be enough passive airflow over the gpu to keep it cool enough, even with the underclock, so I'm looking to remedy that with moar fans. Probably of the 40 or 50mm variety.
 
That concludes what I've done more or less up to this point. It's slow going, I know, but sitting here twiddling my thumbs isn't going to make the deliveries faster...
So playing the waiting game it is  

Still waiting on that PCIe extension...
But I've been keeping busy in the meantime.
 
I've voided the warranty on my GPU by removing the DVI connector and a few fins
 
And I marked out and cut out the graphics outputs from the GPU
To think that an hour of chiselling with a utility blade only got me this far...

And I've yet to design a rear faceplate for the motheroard i/o...
 
It's also been made obvious that there won't be enough passive airflow over the gpu to keep it cool enough, even with the underclock, so I'm looking to remedy that with moar fans. Probably of the 40 or 50mm variety.
 
That concludes what I've done more or less up to this point. It's slow going, I know, but sitting here twiddling my thumbs isn't going to make the deliveries faster...
So playing the waiting game it is  

Looks pretty sweet! I'm glad I'm not the only one who likes the less mainstream color choices - noctua and reeven get so much hate for their colors but I love them regardless

Be careful with the razor method, don't expose too much of the blade otherwise you'll chip the die.
Definitely not speaking from experience and had to sell a 6600K for next to nothing :)))))

oh totally but it also is almost 50% more expensive
Just depends if that money could be saved and better used elsewhere.
I believe the max boards come with the full click-bios and not the stripped down version so the UI is much better than what AsRock offers

The cheapest 'not complete garbage' motherboard in that bracket this side of the puddle is the AsRock B450(m) Pro4, which regularly retails for less than $70. Truth be told any B450 motherboard with a VRM block will be able to handle a 1600X provided you run it at stock speeds and have some ambient airflow over the heatsink.
https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/product/zym323/asrock-b450m-pro4-f-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-b450m-pro4-f

interestingly enough folding at home identifies max-q variants. I don't know how they do it though. You can also take a look at power consumption as the max-q variants typically have a similar power draw to the gpu tier below them. ie a 2060mq would pull about the same power as a 1660 in general

I'd personally say so, but ymmv, of course. There just seems to be a much smaller effective voltage range for ryzen compared to comparable intel chips

I'm running a 1070Ti and an i7 on 450W, so you should have no problem. When you get stutters you should check and see if you are running into some sort of power/thermal limit, or just straight up bottlenecking, which is possible given your CPU choice.

I decided to make some sacrifices when I chose my mobile workstation. I chose the Aero 15x instead of a larger, beefier laptop simply because of what I personally wanted. I wanted something that could last a full day away from the plug while also delivering 144hz of gaming when I needed it, something that would be easy to use as a note taker or a CAD modeler. And something that had a good enough display to be used for color accurate work. You need to know exactly what you want and what your options are for your workload.
 
Yes, the 300hz 3ms displays are great on paper but if you don't have the hardware to back it up what good is that monster display going to do? Make sure you're benefiting from what you're spending on before you actually spend a cent. I'll believe the fact that you say you need ultimate gaming performance, but why does it need to be portable? Are you expecting to game on the go? What about battery life? If this is for school you better make sure you have access to an outlet or get a laptop with substantial battery life.

don't see why not, here or in build logs would be good choices. If it's not here just gimme a ping and I'd be really happy  

@ShadowChaser everything checks out. Thanks!

@AdkatkaShow @ShrimpBrime
 
I just started digging online...and found THIS snippet of information.
It looks like you are limited the +0.300V on these Gigabyte B450 boards, as far as Core Voltage control DIRECTLY through the motherboard BIOS.
That is disappointing...
 
https://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/ryan-martin/gigabyte-b450-aorus-pro-motherboard-review/4/
 
https://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/ryan-martin/gigabyte-b450-aorus-pro-motherboard-review/11/
 
So it looks like +0.00V offset is 1.00V, and caps out at around 1.300V.
You are limited 3.7 GHz ~ 3.9 GHz given the voltage limitation.
 
In your case, since 3.9 GHz is not stable, you are restricted to something under that.
Might need to consider a higher-end socket AM4 motherboard...

For anybody that wants to do the same and is looking for the right colors. The codes are for the Pantone color palette.
 
Standard
Brown = PQ-483C   Noctua
Beige = PQ-2309C   Noctua
 
Redux
Light Grey = 427C   Noctua
Dark Grey = 431C   Noctua
 
Chromax
Red = 200C   Noctua
Blue = 19-4050 TPX   Noctua
Green = 18-6030 TPX   Noctua
Yellow = 108C   Noctua

PicoPSU or HD-Plex will do the conversion for you. You buy a laptop brick and one of the dc-atx boards and you'll be good to go.
What height? PCPP does a pretty good job when you sort by height but the general consensus is NH-L9 series for smallest reasonable cooler. If you go bigger you start having a lot more choices.

depends on what psu you chose. most dc-atx boards take either 12v or 19.5v - if it's the latter just find a compatible laptop brick and if it's the former 12v meanwell or delta PSUs are my go to.