knightslugger

But it does the friggin job fellas, and while I agree you can't put very large redundant internal hard drives in them, it has USB ports to install external drives in if you feel you need the room or redundancy. Sure it's not the best super awesome set up, but show me one that can't be improved somehow. Christ it's not like these kinds of NAS units are going to play file host to a building of 50 employees or hosting several resolution video streams to lots of clients... so cooling isn't necessarily a critical need (probably run idle 99% of the time) Most often it's just a home user looking for a place to store his photos, movies, and music that doesn't involve cluttering up their desk or office (stick it in a closet, out of sight out of mind). That's why I made a nas out of my old Lenovo box.
 
NAS means a lot of different things to a lot of different people with a lot of different needs. I think ya'll would do well to remember that...

#1 or #0 i don't rightly recall. #0 if i had to guess...

I never figured it out, and abandoned the endeavor.

yeah, kinda sucks. oh well wears out it wears out. i'll just buy a new one. when i'm CB20 Benchmarking, it's not hitting over 93A  4.2 All core 1.25v and VRM temps are pretty good at about 60c so there must be a halfway decent airflow across the fins. There is no workload I perform that would stress it to the point that P95 does (beside P95, what would?) so I think it's fine.

power saver?

just putting it out there, wasn't correcting you or anything.

That'd be a 7700k at the very top end, Kaby Lake.

a 2.5 SSD?

The connector goes both ways. if it detects a SATA drive, it will use the sata bus. if it detects a NVMe drive, it will directly use the PCIe bus.

wrapping your head around TDP is a loosing battle. They are made up numbers based on made up numbers.

wrapping your head around TDP is a loosing battle. They are made up numbers based on made up numbers.

wrapping your head around TDP is a loosing battle. They are made up numbers based on made up numbers.

wrapping your head around TDP is a loosing battle. They are made up numbers based on made up numbers.

the correct word is OBTURATE. and to be perfectly honest, it will elongate, not compress.  the bullet diameter is .268 in 6.5 carcano, and the first hole they bore in the barrel is .262-ish. when they go to cut the rifling in the barrel, that groove size from wall to wall will be .268. because the rifling is smaller than the projectile diameter, something has to give. copper and lead will yeild much sooner than steel, so the projectile will obturate into the bore.
 
what you have to be concerned with is the actual cartridge specification. if it chambers hard, DO NOT SHOOT IT. the bolt should drop without use of excessive force (wrist pressure at most, or whatever you can muster using just your thumb). any more and you could have a head spacing issue which can cause excessive pressure and in most cases, a pierced primer sending hot gases rearward (safety glasses bro)

the correct word is OBTURATE. and to be perfectly honest, it will elongate, not compress.  the bullet diameter is .268 in 6.5 carcano, and the first hole they bore in the barrel is .262-ish. when they go to cut the rifling in the barrel, that groove size from wall to wall will be .268. because the rifling is smaller than the projectile diameter, something has to give. copper and lead will yeild much sooner than steel, so the projectile will obturate into the bore.
 
what you have to be concerned with is the actual cartridge specification. if it chambers hard, DO NOT SHOOT IT. the bolt should drop without use of excessive force (wrist pressure at most, or whatever you can muster using just your thumb). any more and you could have a head spacing issue which can cause excessive pressure and in most cases, a pierced primer sending hot gases rearward (safety glasses bro)

the correct word is OBTURATE. and to be perfectly honest, it will elongate, not compress.  the bullet diameter is .268 in 6.5 carcano, and the first hole they bore in the barrel is .262-ish. when they go to cut the rifling in the barrel, that groove size from wall to wall will be .268. because the rifling is smaller than the projectile diameter, something has to give. copper and lead will yeild much sooner than steel, so the projectile will obturate into the bore.
 
what you have to be concerned with is the actual cartridge specification. if it chambers hard, DO NOT SHOOT IT. the bolt should drop without use of excessive force (wrist pressure at most, or whatever you can muster using just your thumb). any more and you could have a head spacing issue which can cause excessive pressure and in most cases, a pierced primer sending hot gases rearward (safety glasses bro)

the correct word is OBTURATE. and to be perfectly honest, it will elongate, not compress.  the bullet diameter is .268 in 6.5 carcano, and the first hole they bore in the barrel is .262-ish. when they go to cut the rifling in the barrel, that groove size from wall to wall will be .268. because the rifling is smaller than the projectile diameter, something has to give. copper and lead will yeild much sooner than steel, so the projectile will obturate into the bore.
 
what you have to be concerned with is the actual cartridge specification. if it chambers hard, DO NOT SHOOT IT. the bolt should drop without use of excessive force (wrist pressure at most, or whatever you can muster using just your thumb). any more and you could have a head spacing issue which can cause excessive pressure and in most cases, a pierced primer sending hot gases rearward (safety glasses bro)

If that sign is legit, and I were a member, i'd draw out a D60 or several and bumpfire that mother effr until I ran dry. Such rules are only made for and desired by FUDDS. I would happily self terminate my membership by such means.

When full-on Fudds run your range. 

"content is not advertiser friendly."

"content is not advertiser friendly."

aww... dang it!