aisle9

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About aisle9

  • Title
    Honnouji Academy Mascot

System

  • CPU
    i7-4790K
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-Z97MX-Gaming 5
  • RAM
    16GB Patriot Viper 3
  • GPU
    MGI GTX 1070 Gaming X
  • Case
    Thermaltake Core V21
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 Pro 512GB, SanDisk Ultra II 960GB, 1TB Western Digital Caviar Blue
  • PSU
    Corsair RM650i
  • Display(s)
    LG 29UM58
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kraken X61
  • Keyboard
    Rosewill Apollo (Cherry MX Brown)
  • Mouse
    Logitech G602
  • Sound
    Yes, it makes sound.
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
  • PCPartPicker URL

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

3,520 profile views
  1. Holy unreadable text Batman. Please stick to the default text options or your post is impossible to see on the dark theme. I've never tried to stack Intel stock coolers, and I'm not 100% sure it would work. Even if it did, the fan is more of a limiting factor on the Intel coolers than the heatsink itself. A better option is to get something like the Rosewill RCX-Z90-AL or, my new budget favorite, the RCX-Z300 on the cheap. Both use better fans than the Intel stock cooler, and the Z300 in particular is quiet and runs cool. Honorable mention to the Zalman CNPS-7000(V)-AL (I know I butchered that--it's the flower cooler), which isn't spectacular, but it is quiet and outperforms the stock cooler for around $8-10.
  2. For me, it depends on what the PC is for. If it's a high power overclocked gaming rig, you bet your ass there's a Tier 1 PSU going in there. If it's a typical PC build for me, something like an M12II/S12II or CXM will more than suffice. If it's just a run of the mill desktop or HTPC that might be called upon for some light gaming, a $30 EVGA 80+ unit is plenty. If I'm trying to collect on homeowners insurance and/or kill someone, Logisys, Diablotek and any other 500W found on eBay for $20 or less become options.
  3. Get a decent UPS with good surge protection on it and it won't be a concern. I have an APC unit that has survived plenty of Florida summer thunderstorms--oh, and the crazy power delivery during a hurricane in the hours before everything goes black--without ever harming Senketsu or any other PC it's been connected to.
  4. https://www.amazon.com/4-Pin-Molex-Power-Silent-Operation/dp/B01MTSJIHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493562229&sr=8-1&keywords=USB+to+molex https://www.amazon.com/ModTek-4-Pin-Molex-Connector-Connection/dp/B00MYA3A4C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493562254&sr=8-2&keywords=molex+to+3-pin or https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4-Pin-3-Pin-Splitter-Connection/dp/B007S3T4O0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1493562286&sr=8-9&keywords=molex+to+3-pin
  5. It's worse than that, imo, because they don't tell you what's really going on when they run your ID. They're not checking to see if it's valid. They could give two shits. They're uploading it to a third-party database run by a nationwide analytics firm, which builds a profile on you based upon how often you return something, what you return, and what the dollar value is. That third party firm then calculates how big of a risk you are to be committing return fraud and pushes that database out to every retailer that subscribes to their service. Those retailers, in turn, simply pass along the "don't accept this return" message and send you on your way. And that's why, on the rare occasion I see someone online bragging about swapping old or fake items into a box and returning it, I give them a few pieces of my mind. Thanks to them, I can't return broken crap to Best Buy (and we have no other tech store here, so it's that or nothing in a pinch) without having to read the riot act to whatever poor sap wanders up to the counter and tells me that he can't accept a return on that defective thingamajig without my photo ID, even though I'm holding a receipt linked to a transaction containing my credit card info and a Best Buy Rewards account with my name on it.
  6. And A-holes like them are the reason that the rest of us have to show a driver's license to return anything at Home Depot, Best Buy, Toys R Us and a growing list of retailers that believe their right to not get screwed outweighs our right to not have a nationwide firm building profiles on us.
  7. Build the right rocket and KSP can bring any system to 0.02 FPS.
  8. If you cleaned it up completely three months ago, no, I'd look at other causes like a loose connection first. If you kinda half-assed it three months ago (we've all done it) and the I/O PCB was caked in dust, yeah, that could be it.
  9. Nope. Camera technology doesn't advance nearly as quickly as model numbers do.
  10. You know you don't have to match fan speeds at all, right? My case fans stay off entirely until the CPU hits 55C or (for the GPU exhausts) the GPU breaks 60. I can also speak from experience that some boards just hate HWMonitor and will occasionally return crazy results. The CPU fan on my Vostro 200 spins at a constant 39,000 RPM, apparently. Given that a rift in spacetime has yet to open up above my Q6600, I'm guessing that's inaccurate, but I don't see why a modern MSI would have that issue.
  11. And then made a couple of videos blaming every OEM in his case before someone pointed out that he's an idiot.
  12. Perhaps this is NVIDIA's backdoor way of announcing that there will be a 3GB 1050 to compete with the RX 560? Or some PR guy just ran the release that the intern handed him.
  13. Here's the thing about AMD graphics cards lately: they age well. The GTX 1060 was ahead of the RX 480 in almost every respect when the two cards launched. Over time, the 1060 hasn't really gotten much better, but the 480 has caught up to it and then some in many scenarios. Even if Vega is that far behind when the curtain comes up (it won't be), it will continue to improve with time and driver refinements while the 1080 is stuck dead in the water. It may not beat the 1080, but it will certainly outperform those numbers.
  14. I doubt it. The Optiplex SFF motherboards tend to be a proprietary form factor, and the 7010 is no exception.