Wynter

I suggest adding Mentos to enhance the performance.

I suggest adding Mentos to enhance the performance.

Maybe refill it with the case turned on it's back. I bet the front radiator isn't filling properly. I had the same issues with my front radiator at one point but I've managed to figure out a way to avoid the problem. 
 
What I do is fill the reservoir till it stops going down and then tilt the case forward and shake, wait like 15 seconds, shake again, wait 15 seconds, and keep repeating. I keep doing this every possible angle I can till I stop hearing bubbles. 
 
You may not need to do it as much since I have a radiator in the top, front, and bottom, so I have way more places for air to hide. 
 
One other thing is to make sure you don't close the fill cap on the reservoir while bleeding. 
 
Sometimes when you can't get the bubble out it's often easier to just refill the entire thing. I had to go that route once and it was pretty quick and it bled correctly afterwards. 
 
Also, don't run your pump very long when filling. You don't want the reservoir to go empty. So just fill it and flip the pump on and off right away. 

Holy crap! :blink:
 
That is just awesome! I never expected pictures of wood to get me that excited! :D
 
C'mon, give him a Mod God forum title already. :D

Yes, they can if your network switch or router integrated network switch supports the Auto-MDIX standard, which it normally should. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto-MDIX#Auto-MDIX
 
Just plug it in and see if it works. That's normally faster than digging through the manual :D

No idea about new metal bands but Amon Amarth has a relatively new album out: "Deceiver of the Gods".
 
And I'm waiting for the new Carcass album "Surgical Steel"
 
And the term "metal" is very vague. :P

Yes, they can if your network switch or router integrated network switch supports the Auto-MDIX standard, which it normally should. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auto-MDIX#Auto-MDIX
 
Just plug it in and see if it works. That's normally faster than digging through the manual :D

Holy crap! :blink:
 
That is just awesome! I never expected pictures of wood to get me that excited! :D
 
C'mon, give him a Mod God forum title already. :D

I will just tease for now :) Got some big stuff planned over the coming week!


Though on an off topic note; Sam the brown Labrador in the previous photos of this build has been rushed into surgery at the vets with an expanded stomach. He ate some compressed pallets (food for the horses) that expand to about 10x their normal size. about 15 of these small pallets (about 10mm x 5mm x 3mm) will fill an entire ice cream container. Heard from the vet that they got 10 LITRES of this expanded food out of him this morning. Which is scary thinking that a dog stomach is about the size of your fist. Hope all goes well for him and we see him back at home in a few days  :unsure: 
silly dog! That stuff has been down in the shed for a year..

Anyways; here you go!
 
 

 

So here is an update for you people hungry for an update
 
I forgot to put this picture in the last update, but here is what the board and I/O will look like :)

 
 
The backboard is screwed on, with all of my fittings just waiting there to be used!

 
When I got my screws from town. I didn't get enough.. Now I have the right amount and the Rad is securely in place

 
 
Today I decided that it was time to start the dredding task of custom lengthing EVERY cable. These were my first crimps ever! didn't do too badly :D

 

 
After thinking about where to start, I started with the Corsiar SP120 fans. Measured to length and initial cut!

 
Cannot really show a picture of in progress crimping, But here is the first. I did them one at a time, instead of taking all the old pins out. Just so I knew exactly where the new pins would go. Have put the wires back to front once... The fan spun in the opposite direction... hehe

 
 
Lovely! All fans followed this procedure. 

 
 
The pumps were the next thing on the checklist so did them next

 
I am actually modding the pumps so that they run off of the Fan Controller so I can undervolt them because at 12v these are actually quite loud. My old MCP655 / D5 was 10x better!
I had to do a test first to make sure that the fan controller would work with it, just to be safe. Though I was 99% certain it would.

 
 
Jotted down the wiring so that I knew were to put the pins

 
 
All soldered on!

 
 
Pump works well :D

 
Interesting, this MCP 355 uses a different PCB. no worries, nothing will end up different

 
 
Again, jotted down where the wires went

 
 
Crimped my wires and now time to test them both in the Fan Controller

 
 

 
 
Great! Though something interesting is that when both at 12V they have a substantially different RPM

 
 
Of course the wires need to be sleeved. I taped the ends flat so that I knew which pin went where since as all 2 wires have no writing or colouring I don't want to get it wrong!

 
 
First one sleeved 

 
The wiring looks to be a perfect length too

 
Second pump done

 
 
Both plugged in

 
The wiring is lovely, lines up perfectly!

 
 
Tomorrow I will do more electrical stuff and will do another update. Would take too long writing out one super super super big update I think haha
 
Take care all;
Phil

Finally, 1/2 of my PPCS order! (2/2 is the BP fittings)

So in this we have: x2 Heatkiller GTX680 Blocks x1 Heatkiller 1155 CPU Block x1 XSPC UP7 Motherboard Block x1 Legion Fan controller  x2 Vandal Switches (For power/ reset)  x1 Vandal Switch plate for the switches to sit in   After getting over my excitement, starting sorting out the attachment brackets to hold the back ledge on Got the drill out with a small drill bit, 2.5mm I think it was to predrill the screw holes
... That one screw that had to be a flat head...   ***** Some how forgot to take a picture of the final result! Will get that uploaded in the next update *****   So it was time to now move the desk to my room, and assemble the top unit to the draws and legs. TO do this there are two dry dowel fittings just to align everything for screwing, unfortunately I drilled too far and one dowel popped through.. No worries though. This is the top left inside of the draw unit, behind draws so will not be visible! Besides, all it is there to do is make things easier when coming to assembling and disassembling.   To screw the bottom and side rail to the underside of the top unit, I flipped the everything upside down and drilled a hole on an angle. Starting with the first incision to make a hole so we can essentially turn the drill 160 degrees without it slipping down the wood   getting more on an angle   And finally going straight down at this angle   And all screws have been successfully screwed in holding everything in place! Though I will be adding an L bracket holding the front leg and the bottom of the lid, just for security as a thick L bracket is 10x stronger than any amount of screws   Speaking of screws, I sourced out the screws that I will be using for the rad's, lotsa these!   Two boxes arrived at my house from which contained my speakers and fans I will be using. Which may I add was very well packaged!   I went with the Microlab Solo 6C's because of their wooden carcase, and I have heard many positive reviews about these. I now just have to find a place for them..
    On to the next box! Containing 5 Twin packets of the SP120 silent edition Corsair fans, and also a Twin pack of the AF120 silent edition fans also. I went with these because of the Static Pressure they create, and also how silent they are. I will only be running my desk in a PULL on the first rad and PUSH on the second. I do not think I need to have push/pull on both rads, as I want to make this thing as silent as possible. With 2 480 Monsta rads, even with a pull on one and a push on the other. It will still all be overkill in terms of cooling potential with the rads as 2 680's, a CPU and Motherboard wouldn't come close to reaching peak performance of the rads. Also the rads look nice at them from the grill.        On the following day I received a shipment from PPCS, which contained 2 Heatkiller 680 back plates which I forgot to order in the previous one.. and 90% of my fittings (70 in total in this order) and slipped through customs without paying an Import Tax which I am more than happy about!    I all ready ripped them all open and started planning out the loop, so left some of the fittings I had joined together as that will be how they are set         Now that everything was finally settling down and the desk is all setup. It was time to finally put a few blocks on components. This update will be for my UP7 with its motherboard block and cpu block too.  
    Putting the thermal pads, and also two small drops of Arctic Silver 5 that I have been using for a long time    And all screwed on! Might look at doing something about the XSPC logo on the block, would rather it be all black for preference   Next up, the Heatkiller CPU block. Boy it looks epic..   Pea size amount of thermal paste   Once I put it on I cut a piece of my crystal link tubing to length and connected the two blocks together. The CPU block, UP7 Block and the Dominator RAM really work well together!

what we first start off with is making some guideline holes so that we are able to do better cuts with the jigsaw allowing us to change angles easily.

 
 
Mid way cutting.

 
 
now time to lay it on, and all is good.

 
 
a wild cat appears! "hmmmm, can i fit through here?"

 
 
"Why yes! of course I can!"

 
 
marking out the other side, and repeating the process

 

 
 
both sides have been completed and look very nice. they are BOTH yet to be routered so that the grill sits in flush. but that is next days off job.

 
 
I quickly decided that I would do my 5.25" holes, one for a Blu Ray drive (basically just incase i need it for whatever case. And no, I couldn't be bothered getting a USB one), and also will be fitted with a Fan Controller too.
Here is the plan...

 
 
Holes done

 
 
all cut out

 
with a bit of extra little rasping (wood equivalent of a file) they fit nice and snug! Though like the rad grills. Will router a recess for them to sit flush in. If some may notice, the drives are sitting lower then centre, this is because I will probably put my power/reset buttons above the 5.25" area. 
and ps, yes I know the middle piece between each 5.25" slot is weak as hell, and I understand that. If it breaks it breaks, if it doesn't it doesn't! it looks nicer with it though 

 
 
Oh, and this is the glass installed 
easy to remove to, simply put fingers between the two glass sheets and lift the top one up! the front bit is siliconed in place

 
Next update will be Wednesday of everything routered
and then theres only two holes left to do (PSU, I/O shield) and its time to d-d-d-d-d-drop the hardware in!!
 
 
Here is how I will be spacing my UP7 to the desk itself. just a few rubber spacers, that will be screwed into the desk, will have to go find some nice long thin srews while I think about it!

 
We start with the routering of the 480 grill rebate, so that the grill can sit nice and flush

 
 
The middle bits had to be done also, and were very difficult too as after a few cm's the router wasn't sitting flush anymore so would 'dip' as you can see in the picture where it dipped a little bit. but that's okay! it's not seen 

 
 
Thinking about how I could find a packer to use that allowed an extra bit of width... duh, why not use the template to rest the router on!

 
 

 
Now, this is what it looked like! the rebate for the grill was done, and also i further rebated in a rectangle for the actual little hex-hole grills to sit in too

 
 
Then there was about a 2 week period where I did nothing in life but work/sleep. UNTIL my parts arrived! and I will also be getting another GTX 680 4GB too 
 

 
After thinking and googling, I figured a way that I could mount my power supply tidily, by making a metal template I guess you'd call it. where you would screw the thin sheet steel to the desk so you could then be able to screw the psu in! 

 

 

 
And then there she was. the template to cut out the... template :B

 
Mid way cutting it out, realised I shouldn't have cut the paper up so much as it was so hard to get the small rectangle square again! 

 

 
And there it is. Not the tidiest and 100% most beautiful, but it will be painted, not seen. It will serve the purpose it was made to do _b

 
Time to mark out where the IO shield will be put, and also where my PSU hole will be too.

 
Time to do my preliminary guide holes for the jigsaw

 
And there it is, all nice and square!

 
The PSU Template works well too

 
Now, the one thing that bugged me the most... The PCI holes. How do do them? Do I rebate them? Do I cut out one big hole instead? I will do it individually instead and rebate me thinks..

 
I then proceeded to use the smallest router bit I had and rebate the groove for the PCI brackets to sit in.
Also, the top L piece of the bracket needed somewhere to sit in, so I marked the lowest point the bracket could sit, otherwise the card when in the motherboard will be on a lean and could have a dodgy connection to the PCI/E Lane

 
Making sure my depth was correct, I used a test bit of wood to make sure that when it came to the final piece, it was done properly.

 
A Perfect fit!

 

 
 
Just a FYI, to prevent any scratching this is how I lay the top down to do any cutting/routering etc

 
Now that the first PCI slots had been cut, it was time to finish the rest off

 
Here is how I measured the spacings for where the slots went, just an old case I chopped up!

 
All cuts done

 
Next, to square all the holes out I figured, what better way to do that, than with a Router! Least that's what I thought. The insertion of the bit went well, as soon as I itched it to the right BOOM. the middle piece of the PCI slots just snapped off.. I said a naughty word beginning with F. the next one began with C. hehe

 
It was time to resort to Plan B. Cut the whole damn thing out and chop the PCI bracket bit out of that old case that was in the pic above

 
it looks a lot tidier this way anyway, so while I am not happy the slot snapped out, I am happy with the result I guess!

 
So after cutting the PCI Bracket out, i gave it a quick sand and a quick paint with orange and will continue to polish it up over the next week but just wanted to test it out for the time being to make sure all was well... Guess I was just impatient and wanted to see if when everything was laid out in the desk it would all look pretty is more appropriate
 
PS- Hello Vita! (sheep)

 

 

 
After the day, I moved everything to it's little box. and covered it. Until tomorrow 

Had to do a quick check that everything was flush/square, and also the right length before proceeding     Had to mark some squared lines so I knew where to drill my holes for the dowels.   Also had to do some measuring for the legs dowel holes too     And shavings be flying everywhere!   Time to get Drilling dem leeeegs!!     After some glue, good to see everything lines up!     Now let us clamp it together, also making sure that it has still remained square!     The next day, I opened the shed up.. to find my cat  -_-     Anywho, after the cat had been vacated to somewhere else. I tacked on the back rimu sheet on. Though it looks a bit 'odd' After everything has been stained it'll look better, and besides. Who sees the back? Note; the other side of it is unstained      It is now time to plan everything out and make final adjustments, eg shortening the width of the desk by about 200mm because I will be using the Extended mouse mat by Razer, and want the mat to look "in place" when it is on the keyboard tray, also makes less "dead space" in the lid      Here is the big piece of recycled Rimu that will be used for the BOTTOM of the lid, as well as the FRONT too. Lots of room to work with      Checking to make sure that everything is the right sizing. Turned out I decided to take (Purposely done) 200mm of the length, so now the main compartment with all the PC goodness will have less 'dead' space in it, Which I guess is a good thing!     The next thing was to router the FRONT, and the two SIDES, leaving the back normal. Though the corner isn't perfect at the moment, it will be sanded in due course to make it look better  The 4 sides will sit on the INSIDE of the round.     after happy with the lid bottom, it is time to give the top and bottom of the sheet a nice sand with the belt sander to smoothen everything out. The worst thing though was... Just as I was about to finish it all up... I smelt something "odd" thinking nothing of it, CRACKLE AHFUHFA SCBASCB ADSA the bloody thing died on me ahh well, have to buy another one tomorrow, as I really need a belt sander to finish everything else! But here is what it looks like with the vanish off/on     Got the two rails sorted, unfortunately there was not another piece long enough for the back. However, if I have the join behind the middle compartment rail, it will be unseen!       So got all the rails cut to the right length, everything is lined up perfectly!           So I got my new mouse mat, the keyboard tray will be slightly larger then the mouse mat, just to make it look even better!     YAY new belt sander!! WOOOO, let's start using it!   Vanish and graffiti, gone       And it is out with the biscuiter again..   The lid will be biscuited together instead of dowel'd, mainly because I find it easier, and there is more play in what I can do with it   just right    Testing the join between the two back pieces since I couldn't find a single piece long enough for the back   Perfect!     Now it is time to get the Router and Jigsaw out and get the rad grill cut out sorted for the middle section piece (Note: there will be 2 rad grills on both sides, no fans on this piece). Let's start marking!     The initial hole for the jigsaw to begin its work!   The crappy work of a jigsaw, to be perfected with a router    Router time!       So now both sides of that piece of timber have been made 1.5mm larger in vertical and horizontal lengths, and a rebate of 1mm larger than the rad grills, so that they will sit just below flush of the timber    That is all for today, not sure what is next but will certainly find something        It is time to sort out the exhaust fans for the right side of the desk, and take into perspective the PSU size, as well as my front bits (fan controller, some switches and a Blu-Ray drive)     Happy with where it was sitting, I started to mark everything up, hoping it would allll be perfect! As you may tell from the next two pics. The two sides have different measurements. One side is to make the fans sit in a rebate in the wood, and the other is so that the Bitspower 240 Grill will sit FLUSH against the wood. This is where my router becomes very handy       Time to start the jigsawing here is the first pilot hole. This time wanting to be more precise then the last so will cut a bit slower to contain a straight line. The blade will never run PERFECT which is why again.. The router fixes everything!   All the pilot holes drilled, and some jig sawing commenced   Not 100% perfect, but after the router has done it's job it will be!     Time to start the rebating process. The wood is 20mm thick, so -4mm for the 3mm grill, and then -9mm for the rebate you will be left with 7mm of wood and the fan will be sticking out 18mm which then the fan will be able get screwed using taping 6-32 screws when the time comes   Going down in small steps at a time, as you can see from the different layers in the top right   All went perfectly! The fans all sit at the same height in each corner, and fit in there nice and snug, barely needing to use any screws! And no, the propellers do not hit the outside casing so a top result     And this is how she sits!      Note: Every single cable in the desk will be made to a custom length, EVERY SINGLE ONE!       So been a busy series of weeks and haven't been able to do as much as I would have liked    So here is the what I left the desk lid like for about a week, because I didn't have time to work on it    So now the lid is together, it is time to start laying things out and check that I have done the correct spacing for everything intended   The back side of the middle section was screwed together, as it is 10x easier then gluing the two sides together and gives some tolerence if say the side that got glued moved 3mm, to which I screwed the other side knowing that everything is square    After a lot of thinking completed of how everything will be done (40 mins worth), It is time to say goodbye for 3 weeks       After the a week or two, I ordered the first installment of items from an online store which is the Rad Grills, Rads, and the two 3-pin fan hubs that I will be using for each rad and its fans            Thank you so much for the reservoirs! They really do look amazing    Since I have the main components, gotta lay them out to see how we are for space. looks like we are dead perfect!
      (Yes the grills do have mesh, but took it out just while measuring everything up)   Unfortunately that is it for today, though coming soon is the glass top which then leaves me with the easy jobs left when I get it, all that is left to purchase is the amount of fittings which which there are about one hundred coming in... WOOOOOOOOO!   Right, it has  been a while. Basically been waiting for my glass to be done, taking it back, yelling at them for doing a shitty job and making them do it with a bit of class instead of giving me some glass that looks like someone has used a rock to sand the edges         so here we started the big cut out for the small glass front to sit in, followed by a router to make it all square and THEN a rebate so that the glass could be glued onto the recess        This was how I routered the rebate for the glass to sit in, aswell a very well put together professional looking base for the router to sit flush on.     We are left with a perfect recess!     Now, with my PPCS gear arriving it was time to get my 480 radiator holes sorted out. I got everything measured up and got some low adhesive tap and plopped the rad grill on and traced around it.   

Firstly though, Big thank you to my sponsors

Performance PCS

http://www.performance-pcs.com/

Mayhems Coolant

http://www.mayhems.co.uk/front/
 
 
Computer Lounge

http://www.computerlounge.co.nz/
 
Table of Contents
Update One Here
Update Two  Here
Update Three Here
Update Four Here
Update Five Here
Update Six Here
Update Seven Here
Update Eight Here
Update Nine Here
Update Ten Here
Update Eleven Here
Update Twelve Here
Update Thirteen Here
Update Fourteen Here


 
So it begins!!
 
  For those who wish to have a look at the sketchup model for this desk,
 
I have uploaded it to here
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/97695353/desk%20final.skp
 
You can download Sketchup here if you do not have it 
http://www.sketchup.com/download
 
Conceptual design

 
 
 
Here is what the timber looks like. Is native NZ Rimu. Please excuse the end one with the bird poo, that will be sanded off in due course. bloody sparrows in the shed >.<

 
 
 
Cut some of the pieces to length of 650, after everything has been glued together will refine the length to 600 

 
 
 
Tools for the job. PVA glue, biscuits. annnd a... Biscuit cutter? (who cares about its real name biscuit cutter sounds cool)

 

 

 
 
 
As you can see, there is some light inbetween the boards, so a nice plane on areas will help close those gaps up

 
 
 
Some fellow putting the biscuits into their grooves after a nice layers of PVA Glue.

 
 
 
All clamped up, with some weights on the timber to stop it from setting wonky 
This here is ONE side to the draw unit
 


 
 
Had to take the pieces to school and use the planer to make the edges all smooth, and to take any imperfections out
 

 

 
 
 
Here are the two horizontal supports for the desk, which the one on the left will be at the front as it has the toe bit on it. Sanded down with lovely wet and dry sandpaper to give it a baby smooth finish 
 

 

 

 

 


 
 
This is what happens once you get a nice plane
 


 
 
drilling out the holes for the dowels to go in, 1mm larger then the dowel so that the glue sets better
 

 

 
 
Once all holes drilled its time to start gluing them in place, and setting everything up to be cramped together
 


 

 
 
 
Now she is cramped, the draw body is setting, and now it is time to make the draws them selves 
 


 

 

 

 
 

 
Here are the draw fronts cut a little oversize just to be safe, not sanded or thicknessed or anything yet

 

 
My small wee thicknesser working its magic on the draw fronts, boy does this puppy make a mess!!

 

 

 
currently have two racks installed at the moment, start from the bottom and work your way up. Doing one at a time to make sure everything fits perfectly on the first time!

 

 

 
These are the draw sides, just some MDF which I will be painting matte black. Think it is somewhere around 12-13mm thick.

 
The box of which the draws will be just sitting there for a test fit, have to make sure that it sits on the sliders properly 

 

 
And here are the sides and front/back for the two bottom draws going to school to get everything cut to length properly and use that lovely big planner (note to self, buy one of those big planners as they make life so much easier)

 
Bruce one of the pet lambs thought he would come up and see what's up. Was more interested in sticking his head in boxes around the shed though lol

 
Since the thicknesser I used at school had a few chips in the blade (GRRR) spent about an hour belt sanding the sides to make all the imperfections go away, belt was a 'used' 120 grit piece

 
Time to smoothen the sides up and then further make sure there are no ridges because you can certainly feel if there is anything wrong with a certain spot if the rest is smooth! This was I think around a 80 grit on a circular sander

 
After happy with the piece of timber, it was time to move to the 240 grit wet/dry. After 5 minutes of nice, slow and steady sanding. I can assure you that there was much pleasure in rubbing my hand around the timber... my GOD it is smooth.

 
So this is what it looked like before sanding

 
And this is what a few minutes of 240 grit wet/dry does 

 
All the pieces have now been sanded down to get rid of all imperfections that I could

 
Sam and I discussing what to do next.

 
GOOD MAN SAM! That's right, have to have the aluminium rods for the 'files' to sit on

 
All cut to length and the ends filed down

 
All is well 

 
both ends in, and the file fits. Looks like my measuring was correct 

 
Sam now bored and reflecting on life as it is 

 
Predrilling holes for the sides to be nailed to the Side of the FRONT/BACK

 
Both sides done

 
Add a line of glue for extra support

 
Straightened it up and nailed em all in!

 
Now to do the next side 

 
Can't forget to add the rails in when putting the other side on!!

 
Predrilled the holes and put the nails in ready to smack em along the bottom. 

 
 
Here is the draw unit in some decent light Still have to get the draw front on too.

 
Time to screw the rail sliders for the draw on. Firstly I pre drilled the hole with a very small drill bit, just to prevent any cracking of the MDF then in the screw goes!

 
Here is the bottom draw front, and after some 360 wet/dry. You can see the shiny'ness, it is so smooth 

 
Since I cannot do any more draws till I get some more custom wood, thought I would be useful and get the other sides legs sorted. So found some nice pieces of more Rimu, which will be thicknessed down a bit, and will router the edges too

 
Ran them through the thicknesser, got hit in the face by a few flying chips. Lucky my safety glasses protected my eyes 

 

 

 
 
So now both pieces are lovely and square/flat/straight

 

 
 
Time to clean up the mess made by thicknessing...

 
 
Clamping a bead across the front piece and the draw, to make sure that everything is lined up 

 

 

 
 
All lined up, happy with it. Now let us screw it on!

 
 
The final result

 
 
Time to sort out the spacing between each draw, found the right packers.

 

 
 
Everything has been cut up to length and sanded down for the middle draw unit.

 
 
Let us commence the building!

 

 
 
Time to get the runners aligned and sorted too...

 

 
 
Getting the spacing sorted with the new packer, and then clamping and screwing again

 

 
 
 
Same as before of how to do the attach the front piece to the box

 

 
 
Only one left to do!

 
 
Here is my beast and the box of bits

 
 
Time to router the edges of the legs! Here are the two bits that I will be using (note: the big one is for the legs, the small one is for a bevel around the outside of the draws)

 

 
 
I hadn't used a router before, so got mum to show me how to do it, 

 
 
We were left with a good result, nice smooth. lovely.

 
 
Now time to sand the edges down so that there isn't a "step" from the flat piece to the curve (above pic)

 
 
 
Routered the edge of the LEFT and RIGHT side of all the draws and the BOTTOM of the bottom draw. 

 
 
Once I finished sanding the saw marks, the curve had kinda disappeared, no problems. Will re-router it again 

 
 
The timber I am using is recycled stuff, so there are a few nail holes here and there. Clever trick, use the saw dust of the rimu that has been collected in the table saw bin and mix with PVA glue to make a nice formula that will fill in the holes, dry hard. and then be the most unnoticeable filler!

 
 
After the pva had dried, this is what we were left with

 

 
 
The chisel then got it off to a nice smooth finish that will get sanded down, it might not look perfect, but you can notice a hole in a timber from a mile away

 

 
 
Now it's time to get a piece of wood sorted for the side rail connecting the two legs together

 

 
 
Might as well get the back runner cut while I am here!

I'm pretty sure he's talking about not being able to get his computer back home from college. How did you get it there in the first place? In general, this is a good guide to follow: 
 

Hmm maybe you need to make it tired, sometimes I do nothing all day and I won't sleep either...
 
There's also pills for that :P

Wait, what? I thought today was Towel Day?! :unsure:

Inb4 twitter, facebook, google shut down 

oh so NOW he cares about intellectual property

Check this one out: http://mywindows8.org/change-from-ahci-to-ide-mode-in-windows-8/
 
This one makes it look easy and apparently it's less of a hassle in Windows 8. I believe 7 did need the drivers beforehand.

Ouch. That's insane.
 
Then again, so is the Titan pricing LOL

Ouch. That's insane.
 
Then again, so is the Titan pricing LOL

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/ssd-raid-benchmark,3485.html
Faster speeds and more storage

check what your TVs input is set too.
Very noobish answer LOL!