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ASIC stands for Application Specific Integrated Circuit, and generally describes a computer designed for carrying out one specific set of calculations/instructions very rapidly - since all it does is that one thing, it can do it very quickly.

The best example I can think of is bitcoin miners. GPU mining is more effective than CPU mining because the GPUs have more computational power that they can bring to bear on the mining process. Ergo, they are able to come closer to 'ASIC-quality' - the quality of a machine designed specifically for that task.

I've never come across it used in that setting before, but that's what I think it means. As for the percentage, who knows. If 100% = ASIC quality, 70-80% strikes me as pretty good :)

From my own experience before I got a license for the LTSB/LTSC, I used the W10 Pro, upgraded from a W8.1 Pro with an old laptop key, W10 Pro had few extra controls over the home edition (You can still get them with Registry), if you're a geek and love breaking and trying new things then Ill tell you that no matter what version of windows you are using you can get the control or the performance you desire. There is many 3rd party software that will help you on that as well!, some first party tools as well built in, "Powershell and CMD, Group Policy, the Registry, services manager", you can even just enable the admin account and delete the UWP apps or stop the telemetry processes, and if I remember correctly on W10 Pro and Enterprise there is a way you can enable only security updates, I usually remove windows update completely, that I need a bootable iso to get it back!
There is a lot you can tamper with and change whether you're using the LTSB/LTSC, Server, or the normal consumer version, the thing with LTSB/LTSC or Server, is that some of the control switches, just some! are already visible and easily accessible, unlike on the consumer version you gotta break some sweat.
Ill try not to bore you with details, sorry lol, there is a developer which I forgot his name that made a debloated iso or a debloated version of Windows if you wanna call it so! he removed uneeded stuff like UWP, edge, cortana, unistack services and a lot more, you can check his blog if you're interested here " https://litewinos.blogspot.com/ "
He also got a debloated version of the LTSB/LTSC which I am currently running and loving as well, I believe its the LiteOS LTSC 2019. You can check his work if you don't wanna bother yourself with tweaking a lot, or you can go the hard way as well, you'll learn a lot in the process I can assure you that.

If the money isn't a problem, you'll be alright.  You'll 'notice' when you hit that pagefile, but you won't stop working, things will just slow down a smidge

Go with mayhems coolants instead.

NB: I contacted EK over some brown residue, likely also O-ring oil, and immediately got sent a replacement O-ring and new fluid. 

I dont normally recommend opaque fluids, but if you must, I think you should stick with Mayhems Pastel.

Oh ok, that's the EVO stuff.
If mixed with distilled water correctly it should not have had any growth...
Do you remember what type of water you mixed it with?
 
It has been replaced recently by ek cryofuel though so maybe there were some issues with it.

This is the same as Mayhem's Pastel. EK collaborated on it in 2014 and released it under the EK-Koolant branding and is distinct from the Evo clear coolants of the same period.
I still maintain that this is just O-ring grease and not algae growth. Algae is unlikely to localize in a region and would have taken over most of the loop if it was indeed there. Here are example photos of O-ring grease that have leached in various systems that to me resemble the brown stain on the waterblock close to the O-ring.
 
Now, I think EK O-rings are fairly notorious of doing this, while it has no performance issues, is aesthetically unpleasing - I don't know if this waterblock you have shown is EK, but if it is, is in strong support of this theory. Having said that during my 1 year maintenance, I cleaned the residue off and gave the O-ring itself a bit of a wash, and no further leeching of any grease has been observed in my systems.
 
Regardless, I am in strong support of you playing it safe and giving your system a good clean, but I do not think the coolant has failed you in any way, so I just wanted to put it out there.
 

 
 
 

That's what I thought for a bit but it had a slight smell to it and I am not taking any chances. It didn't feel like greese. 

I would set up a cron rather than asking a batch file to sleep. 
 
Kill the server and then reopen.

I would just create a scheduled task to run a batch file
:loop start "c:\blaablaa\shittyProgram.exe -parameters" timeout /t 36000 && taskkill /f /im shittyProgram.exe timeout /t 30 goto loop  

The vega 8 is actually a bit worse than the k2100m according to notebookcheck, also you could flash a new vbios onto the k2100m and get a MASSIVE performance increase, though I would suggest repasting like @ZM Fong said before flashing. You could probably get an extra 25% performance boost from flashing.

thunderbolt is higher bandwidth than 10gb ethernet and offers a non networked solution. basically i can treat thunderbolt like a long displayport cable and usb, if i network a solution then i have to deal with compression, routing, software conflicts its a whole ordeal because this isn't want home networks are intended for really.

nada, i wish i had one. right now i think i'm going to have to make 2 rigs with similar specs. i think im going to have to go with the thunderbolt solution. i have been looking into thin client networking solutions but i would still need similar bandwidth and i would run into latency issues. 
 

thats not really how aio's work. unless there is some massive defect. did you remove the plastic sheet at the bottom of the cpu cooler? i would rma the cooler.
 
no name brand coolers like that one are likely to have defects such as a dead pump or low coolant levels. return it to where ever you bought it.

should be fine then

Full on anechoic chamber? But in all seriousness you will not be able to completely isolate the rooms unless you sink some serious money into the project.
Correction, they will only work directionally, meaning that they will dampen the transmission of noise in the direction that they are positioned. This is how anechoic chambers keep sound within a room. OPs concern is noise isolation of one room from another, acoustic panels would help if they lined the wall between the two rooms. The insulation will help but the acoustic panels will make a bigger difference if you want to put up drywall (to contain the insulation so as to fall in line with fire codes).

I agree, but if cost is not a big concern then there are some cool options for decorative, fireproof, acoustic panels to go over the sheetrock. I will include a picture of an example below.

Also take measures to block sound going through the ceiling and through the attic/crawlspace. Make sure there is adequate insulation above the rooms that you want to isolate.

Answer is pretty easy. Lets look at some Rise of the Tomb Raider benchmarks for the 1080ti
 
1440p: 117fps
4k: 62fps
https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2017/03/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-review/
 
Therefore, 4k60hz is easier to run than 1440p144hz. Just look at reviews for your GPU and the games you play and the answer is there.

its straight up just more pixels per second at 1440p 144hz vs 4k 60hz.
so yes 1440p 144hz is more demanding.

(similar to what linus has done in his server room)

i'd suggest looking into the kind of insulation linus used for their server room, because that's the stuff meant to do what you're wanting to do. the cone.pyramid/eggshell stuff is meant to reduce echo within a room, rather than actually "insulating" it from sound going in or out.
 
if you're worried about looks in that regard, you could also ask a local home improvement store if they have something that'd suit your needs. mine, for example, has "all-in-one" panels with insulation and a "decorative front" that are just bolt down and go.

You're plugging a 6+2 pin connector into your motherboard 8 pin EPS connector.
If you turn that computer on you will instantly kill your motherboard and possibly your CPU and ram too.
 
This is NOT a GPU............
 

he mains Zen