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PCB making + program to print to laserjet or through hole breadboard

Canada EH

I found a few options.

 

In the "Do something new" category I was thinking of making my own very simple pcb.

Etching agent and pcb board will run like $25 but need to hit up the Office Depot for the laser print job, may have to d/l a program for that to happen.

I can use vinegar and peroxide with a dash of salt for etching agent, from Dollaracraporama for $4 then $10 pcb board, same laserjet printer problem. Oh forgot, nail polish remover gets the laser jet paper off.

 

Pre made through hole bread boards may suffice at $5 but have to solder in the traces or use wires. I was originally going to do this method, but I could only find 2 hole gangs ? and others with rails, or 5 gang lines of holes. I do not see how the 2 hole gang breadboard will be able to have 3 connections, without a glob of solder. Like a cap and 2 resistors, then a wire to go to the other side of the board.

 

Emily Blount's Lab Notebook

 

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If you want PCBs on the cheap, I think JLCPCB would work. I've never used them, but Linus did a tour and I've heard good things. There is also the DIY route.

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17 minutes ago, Opencircuit74 said:

JLCPCB

There is a 5 MOQ, sure I could sell the other ones but its not worth the hassle.

It is a good price though, I see $2 for 10 pcs, shipping is $23 thats always where they getcha.

Thanks for the reply, if I have more complex pcb's I would use them for sure.

 

Quote

JLCPCB(Shenzhen JLC Electronics Co., Ltd.), is the largest PCB prototype enterprise in China and a high-tech manufacturer specializing in quick PCB prototype and small-batch PCB production.

 

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If you really want to go the "make your own pcb" route, this page contains a lot of useful information:  http://www.electricstuff.co.uk/pcbs.html

 

His tutorial is for using pre-coated positive photoresist pcbs and ultra-violet exposure box that you can make yourself and an etching solution you can also make with regular chemicals

 

You can buy pcbs (uncoated or pre-sensitized) from stores like digikey or newark (more in other board types)  or mouser or others.

Datasheets for some boards also suggest developer (but the link has at the bottom instructions on how to make your own)

 

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It is a one off, I thought about it and will just go through hole pcb. The only thing I am concerned about is I do have 1 or 2 d.i.p. chips with 4 pins on each side. So I have to confirm the dips will fit, if not as the cool dude over at yt channel ave boltr says, do a little tappity tap taaaap, bendy bendy.

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Easy.

 

Use the program "Eagle" to design the PCB. Eagle also has an "auto route" function if you're new to it. It's not... great... but it'll work.

 

Then print the PCB layout.... mirrored onto a sheet of paper. (Optimally you'd use PCB transfer paper, but I've done it with normal paper.) Also, you have to use a LASER printer, and print using as MUCH ink as possible, so turn the darkness all of the way up. 

 

Then take your printed design, put it on top of a single sided copper board, then use an iron (yes, literally a clothing iron) to iron it on. I forget the settings, but you have to hold it there fore a while. Then, let it cool down, and soak the whole thing in water. Optimally, the paper will disintegrate and you'll just be left with the design on the board. 

 

Then, buy some Ferric Chloride from ebay or amazon. Note, this stuff is FREAKING NASTY. It STAINS EVERYTHING, and is not good for you. Use a plastic gladware container that'll fit your PCB and let it sit in there. Then take it out (wear latex/nitrile gloves) and see if the copper is gone from where the design is not covering. If not, place back in the ferric chloride. Repeat until all the copper not covered by the design is gone.

 

Next, buy yourself some PCB drill bits on ebay (PCB holes are freaking tiny.) They generally come in a set of 5-10. It is... possible to do it by hand, but it's HIGHLY recommended that you have a drill press. I bought a little dremel drill press and it worked great. Note, the small drill bits usually have a 1/8" shank, which most normal sized drill presses CANNOT hold without a collet or a special chuck. 

 

Then, drill the holes... carefully. Then use acetone to remove the design from the copper. Then tin the copper, then solder in your components (on the reverse side)

 

Yes, I have done this before. 

 

Also of note. STORE THE FERRIC CHLORIDE CAREFULLY. Literally, take the bottle, put it in a sealed ziplock, then put that ziplock in a sealed gladware container. I'm not joking, this stuff literally stains EVERYTHING, including your skin. 

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