Recommendations on Gaming PC

[Dragonuser2000]

9 hours ago, TheReal1st said:

Its fine man really, your off to a good start and thats the important bit. You got some good things in your parts list. But this is much better, objectively speaking for price to performance right now. 

 

Ok heres a good list @Dragonuser2000:\

 

- heres the Win 10 OS site too

 

- here Parts list

I put two monitors on there. You can get the cheap 180 one thats a damn good IPS panel for the price or you can get a (TN panel) gaming monitor for 300. FYI IPS panels are good for viewing angles, color accuracy, and other proffesional crap. But TN panels are for gaming cause the refresh rate on them is a lot higher and much cheaper too. But they don't have the best color accuracy. So pick your poison of which one you want. 

 

You can change the case to the h500p mesh version if you'd like it is a nice case to be honest. But the non mesh version is trash for air flow and PC's need airflow to breath. So I'd say get the meshify C or if you don't like the look, find another under 100 dollar case that has a mesh front. And you will be good.  But the other core components don't change, just sift through them and get those that are at a pretty low price now. For instance the 580 is 20 bucks off now so get that, and so on with the other parts. 

 

Good luck mate

 

 

Thanks, so it feels like many people are leaning towards AMD CPUs right now so I'll probably try to do one with it as well since they seem to do well with gaming. I do have a few questions about your build though:

 

CPU: Do you think it is necessary to have six core like you suggested because what I've learned over the few days is that most games utilize four cores, so I was thinking of the AMD Ryzen 5 2400 G because it has 4 cores and is 30 bucks cheaper 

Storage: Isn't 500 GB for the SSD and 2 TB for the HDD a bit much? I thought 1 TB was already a lot of room for a hard drive but I can stick with 2 TB if it's necessary I'd just prefer faster RPM if I won't utilize the full 2 TB. As for the SSD I was thinking of having that for the OS so wouldn't like 280 GB be enough? 500 sounds a bit much to me.

Power Supply: According to PC Part Picker its says the approximate wattage is 359 is 650 watts just in case of I'm overclocking because I've heard that having too high of a wattage from a power supply doesn't help the computer. You seem pretty determined in gold certified so I'm not going to judge for that but from many youtubers I've watched they say a bronze power supply is enough for a budget build. If it helps costs I might switch but 80 for a gold one it doesn't seem that bad so I'll probably end up keeping it.

Case: I'll probably stick to the one you have selected it looks solid to me. I might wait a day or two and see if I can get a mesh front for h500p, it probably won't happen but I'll wait and see. 

 

I have to say the build looks solid, it's around the same price that I had for mine but yours is most likely more balanced and performs better than mine. All these questions are just from my curiosity, I'm not judging your expertise, you would have way more experience than I would. I do think maybe a few changes to the build I would be perfectly fine with it. I would like to learn some of my mistakes from my build though since this a new learning experience from me and someday I really do want to create a build from scratch rather than modify someone elses. You've taught me a lot so far and for that I'm grateful. Thank you

 

[Dragonuser2000]

So I've made a couple of changes to the build

CPU; I swapped it to Ryzen 5 2600X it has better performance than the 2600 and for 20 buck I won't mind it that much

Storage: I just changed the HDD to a 7200 RPM while still carrying the 2 TB of space it has a different brand but I think it should do fine since it's just storage

 

I took off the case and monitors because I think I will order those later since I'm just focused on getting the parts in. I will get a case at some point but I really like the Cooler Master H500P case and going to see if I could wait for a Mesh cover. 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jgJLyX

[TheReal_ist]

6 hours ago, Dragonuser2000 said:

So I've made a couple of changes to the build

CPU; I swapped it to Ryzen 5 2600X it has better performance than the 2600 and for 20 buck I won't mind it that much

Storage: I just changed the HDD to a 7200 RPM while still carrying the 2 TB of space it has a different brand but I think it should do fine since it's just storage

 

I took off the case and monitors because I think I will order those later since I'm just focused on getting the parts in. I will get a case at some point but I really like the Cooler Master H500P case and going to see if I could wait for a Mesh cover. 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jgJLyX

I get from your end it seems like the 2600x is a better deal. But I and alot of people on here know overclocking(OCing for short fyi) And I know Ryzen chips very well. The X variant isn't worth even a $5 raise in price that is how much it matters getting that one. Know why?? All AMD did was OC a slightly different 2600 to the base clock of what they advertise the 2600x to be. Therefore your paying them more money to OC a chip by a little fucking bit when your LITERALLY going to OC it way past that. And you know what else you get with the X variant you get no stock cooler so your forced to buy a 30 cooler. Which not only negates the money u thought u saved but u also got fucked by AMD with out even knowing it.

 

..........Ok well now u know it. So I hope u chose right. A good way to summarize AMD's chips for the next 3 years is NEVER GET THE X variant. Its a marketing pile of shit that they sell only so those who are scared of OC the chip (which FYI is simple as shit seriously look it up) thats who this chip is for the pleb who can't use there fucking brain inside there skull to think for a sec before buying and believing what ever the fuck the company told them about said item. 

- Rant done

 

 

Case: 

 

Ok I like the H500p as well, but if you can't get the mesh panel with it the CASE IS UTTER SHIT. And everyone in the tech community knows it. U need the mesh panel so the damn components can breath. If you don't they will get very hot very quick and you will see your PC performance fucking Tank. 

 

Here:

Case

Mesh panel

 

Ok the normal H500p with the shit glass front is on sale 40% right now. Thats a fucking good deal, meaning you'd best buy it like NOW. Second point they sell the mesh front panel seperately but Newegg is out of stock. So then buy the case now and wait till the mesh panel gets in stock. Then u got yourself a good case. 

[TheReal_ist]

14 hours ago, Dragonuser2000 said:

Thanks, so it feels like many people are leaning towards AMD CPUs right now so I'll probably try to do one with it as well since they seem to do well with gaming. I do have a few questions about your build though:

 

CPU: Do you think it is necessary to have six core like you suggested because what I've learned over the few days is that most games utilize four cores, so I was thinking of the AMD Ryzen 5 2400 G because it has 4 cores and is 30 bucks cheaper 

Storage: Isn't 500 GB for the SSD and 2 TB for the HDD a bit much? I thought 1 TB was already a lot of room for a hard drive but I can stick with 2 TB if it's necessary I'd just prefer faster RPM if I won't utilize the full 2 TB. As for the SSD I was thinking of having that for the OS so wouldn't like 280 GB be enough? 500 sounds a bit much to me.

Power Supply: According to PC Part Picker its says the approximate wattage is 359 is 650 watts just in case of I'm overclocking because I've heard that having too high of a wattage from a power supply doesn't help the computer. You seem pretty determined in gold certified so I'm not going to judge for that but from many youtubers I've watched they say a bronze power supply is enough for a budget build. If it helps costs I might switch but 80 for a gold one it doesn't seem that bad so I'll probably end up keeping it.

Case: I'll probably stick to the one you have selected it looks solid to me. I might wait a day or two and see if I can get a mesh front for h500p, it probably won't happen but I'll wait and see. 

 

I have to say the build looks solid, it's around the same price that I had for mine but yours is most likely more balanced and performs better than mine. All these questions are just from my curiosity, I'm not judging your expertise, you would have way more experience than I would. I do think maybe a few changes to the build I would be perfectly fine with it. I would like to learn some of my mistakes from my build though since this a new learning experience from me and someday I really do want to create a build from scratch rather than modify someone elses. You've taught me a lot so far and for that I'm grateful. Thank you

 

Let me get this out first: 

 

I did the same thing when I was new to the PC scene. Which is trying to save every buck to put it towards something else or better yet just not having to spend it at all. Point is Your gonna spend a bit on a new Decent PC like the one your parting out now. U have to face that and stop sacrificing on components u need to be high quality so that they will last years for you. Meaning stop second guessing yourself on parts. And that doesn't mean don't question what I or you pick for parts. Thats different, you just have to find a balance between the two. 

 

Ok now back to the topic:

 

CPU:

 

There is some truth to the "games only use 4 cores stick" people love to throw around. First your likely gonna use this PC for 5-7 years unless u really wanna blow 1300 bucks every few years which I don't know why u would but idk its your choice I guess. But point is by getting a 6 core chip now u are insuring your PC can play those games in the next 5 years that will need to use all 6 cores to fricken Run right. While it isn't future proofing its better than buying the barely passing CPU now and hating yourself when u need a better chip for your PC. And heres that money thing again. 30 bucks cheaper is nothing honestly. And by spending 30 more your able to get 2 whole cores thats insane and a GREAT deal.

 

Ya u could skimp out and get the 4 core crap chip now, youll regret it in the next 5 years as I said above. I'd say to get 8 cores then you'll really be good but no thats where the price starts to lose its price to performance rating. So just get the 6 core in summary, youll be fine with spending 30 more. 

 

PSU: 

 

Ok If your planning to use said PC for Idk like 4 years without being OC at all, and just running pure stock. Then ya get a bronze PSU from EVGA they are the BEST PSU brand on the Damn market. But PSU's are cheap especially for the quality u get with EVGA. Saving 30 bucks again is nothing compared to the hundreds your spending. Ok I'll allow that if it were on any other component. 

 

But let me tell u this. The PSU is something u DON'T SKIMP ON u know why because its the single component that every other part is plugged into for until the damn component dies. Thats a long ass time, and you want a proper quality PSU to not only supply steady and safe power levels to it. But you also want the Damn PSU to not fry itself because its a cheaper made bronze with a lower wattage limit. On top of the PSU possibly failing which FYI depending on the PSU brand they can and WILL take a PC component with them when the PSU dies. Meaning you just lost for instance you $300 gpu because u wanted to save 30 bucks.

 

That is why u never skimp on a PSU its the literal heart of your build, you know why because it keeps everything running. And if the heart is cheaply made the entire thing falls apart. Simple

 

Thats something else you should know certain cheap components even from well known brands can sometimes do that. Which is when they die randomly in time they tend to send a surge of power to the closest connected component. Its rare but it happens and I've seen guys who had a shitty expansion card they bought for cheap fry there entire mobo, there CPU and there PSU all at once. Don't be scared by it or anything its just something to keep in mind while researching parts now and forever. Things like that happen, basically just remember that. 

 

 

[seon123]

13 minutes ago, TheReal1st said:

on the Damn market. But PSU's are cheap especially for the quality u get with EVGA

Please do not try to give "advice" regarding PSUs, as it's clear you don't have sufficient knowledge to do anything other than to spread misinformation. 

[TheReal_ist]

14 minutes ago, seon123 said:

Please do not try to give "advice" regarding PSUs, as it's clear you don't have sufficient knowledge to do anything other than to spread misinformation. 

You can have your opinion all you want seriously I don't care. 

 

But u don't just say "ohh ya your wrong, now please shut up" with out proving said person wrong. Even a dumbass knows that, so therefore prove why I'm wrong there bud. Enlighten me please ohh so great one. 

 

Seriously try me, and while your at also fail to teach the new PC guy anything worth learning too. So that he gets confused entirely, all because u thought u were superior in PC knowledge. God I can't believe people actually that shit. 

[LienusLateTips]

2 minutes ago, TheReal1st said:

You can have your opinion all you want seriously I don't care. 

 

But u don't just say "ohh ya your wrong, now please shut up" with out proving said person wrong. Even a dumbass knows that, so therefore prove why I'm wrong there bud. Enlighten me please ohh so great one. 

 

Seriously try me, and while your at also fail to teach the new PC guy anything worth learning too. So that he gets confused entirely, all because u thought u were superior in PC knowledge. God I can't believe people actually that shit. 

B3. OPP problems. A dozen or two over and a kablooy

 

G3. OTP problems. No overheating protections.

 

G1. Group regulated overpriced junk.

 

G2. LOUD

 

B1. Overpriced for what it is, which is a piece of group regulated garbage.

 

Every brand makes bad PSUs. SeaSonic, Corsair, EVGA.

[TheReal_ist]

1 minute ago, JDE said:

B3. OPP problems. A dozen or two over and a kablooy

 

G3. OTP problems. No overheating protections.

 

G1. Group regulated overpriced junk.

 

G2. LOUD

 

B1. Overpriced for what it is, which is a piece of group regulated garbage.

 

Every brand makes bad PSUs. SeaSonic, Corsair, EVGA.

Damnit man I wanted him to try at least. But o well.

 

Ok Ya I get that all parts have lemons.

 

But I'm cutting around that technical shit because it means the same thing. By that I mean Every damn component will have lemons. But PSU's even the lesser sold ones like seasonic have gotten better as a whole, because they're all starting to follow standards that mean something in the end. And since the market as a whole is becoming better u don't go off that. So u then go to the more stable market of today and u look at that. It's much better so what do u pick out now. Ohh ya u look at all brands and find out what ones on average across the board are less reliable then others. Thats what I'm basing this all on past knowledge as the foundation and then current knowledge of the market reliability now.

 

Is that wrong to average the reliability of every brands PSU's so u can see who has the better on average PSU for the end consumer. NOO it isn't thats how u critically think through any problem.  

 

And from what I see, EVGA is by far the best on average. KEY WORD ya there are lemons no shit but EVGA gets less from all the companies and people I've talked with over the years. Maybe its different for u honestly we could go back and forth about the variability each person has for ANYTHING they get EVER but thats not the point is it. If it is then that invalidates everything so I'd rather not go there. 

 

 

Please tell me a better way to piece out every component from a specific market cause honestly It would be cool if there was. 

[seon123]

1 hour ago, TheReal1st said:

You can have your opinion all you want seriously I don't care. 

 

But u don't just say "ohh ya your wrong, now please shut up" with out proving said person wrong. Even a dumbass knows that, so therefore prove why I'm wrong there bud. Enlighten me please ohh so great one. 

 

Seriously try me, and while your at also fail to teach the new PC guy anything worth learning too. So that he gets confused entirely, all because u thought u were superior in PC knowledge. God I can't believe people actually that shit. 

If you don't have the insight to realise your lack of knowledge, I can try to convince you of it. 

 

2 hours ago, TheReal1st said:

Ok If your planning to use said PC for Idk like 4 years without being OC at all, and just running pure stock. Then ya get a bronze PSU from EVGA they are the BEST PSU brand on the Damn market. But PSU's are cheap especially for the quality u get with EVGA. Saving 30 bucks again is nothing compared to the hundreds your spending. Ok I'll allow that if it were on any other component. 

First, the 80+ rating is only for efficiency at certain power levels. It says nothing about how good the PSU is. For example, the Titanium rated Masterwatt Maker, Gold rated NEX G, compared to for example the bronze rated Corsair Vengeance and silver rated Pure Power 10. 

EVGA doesn't make any PSUs. So there is no "EVGA quality". Let's look at all of EVGA's bronze rated PSUs. 

B1. Ancient group regulated design. Usually costs $40, worth about a quarter of that. 

B2. Very decent unit, albeit loud. Costs the same as much superior units. 

B3. Issues with its OPP, making it a fire hazard. EVGA sent golden samples to reviewers, which were a lot better than the retail units. The retail units had aweful soldering. 

BQ. Very low end DC-DC unit. It's much better than the B1, but not worth the normal price. The grey CX/M usually costs less and that's a better unit. 

NEX B. Ancient crappy group regulated unit. 

BV. Unknown. Not having reviews is a sign that the brand isn't confident that the PSU won't get slaughtered by reviewers. 

BT. It's sort of alright, if it costs <$20. Performs less crappy than most group regulated units, but a step up to the grey CX/M is worth it. 

I think that's all? Anyway, there are reviews available for the units, if you want to check what I've said. http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page2293.htm

 

2 hours ago, TheReal1st said:

On top of the PSU possibly failing which FYI depending on the PSU brand they can and WILL take a PC component with them when the PSU dies

It doesn't depend on the brand, it depends on the product. Any brand is equally capable of selling crap, and of selling good stuff. 

2 hours ago, TheReal1st said:

its a cheaper made bronze with a lower wattage limit.

PSUs that aren't total crap will just tshut down safely. And the thing with the bronze rating is above. 

 

 

Edit: should apologise if it felt like I was the the silly "shut up idiot" type guy. I didn't have time for this response when I wrote the original thing. 

Edited June 28, 2018 by seon123
Something something

[TheReal_ist]

14 minutes ago, seon123 said:

If you don't have the insight to realise your lack of knowledge, I can try to convince you of it. 

 

First, the 80+ rating is only for efficiency at certain power levels. It says nothing about how good the PSU is. For example, the Titanium rated Masterwatt Maker, Gold rated NEX G, compared to for example the bronze rated Corsair Vengeance and silver rated Pure Power 10. 

EVGA doesn't make any PSUs. So there is no "EVGA quality". Let's look at all of EVGA's bronze rated PSUs. 

B1. Ancient group regulated design. Usually costs $40, worth about a quarter of that. 

B2. Very decent unit, albeit loud. Costs the same as much superior units. 

B3. Issues with its OPP, making it a fire hazard. EVGA sent golden samples to reviewers, which were a lot better than the retail units. The retail units had aweful soldering. 

BQ. Very low end DC-DC unit. It's much better than the B1, but not worth the normal price. The grey CX/M usually costs less and that's a better unit. 

NEX B. Ancient crappy group regulated unit. 

BV. Unknown. Not having reviews is a sign that the brand isn't confident that the PSU won't get slaughtered by reviewers. 

BT. It's sort of alright, if it costs <$20. Performs less crappy than most group regulated units, but a step up to the grey CX/M is worth it. 

I think that's all? Anyway, there are reviews available for the units, if you want to check what I've said. http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page2293.htm

 

It doesn't depend on the brand, it depends on the product. Any brand is equally capable of selling crap, and of selling good stuff. 

PSUs that aren't total crap will just tshut down safely. And the thing with the bronze rating is above. 

 

 

Edit: should apologise if it felt like I was the the silly "shut up idiot" type guy. I didn't have time for this response when I wrote the original thing. 

Jesus u didn't even read the latest comment from an actual PSU guy. We already answered it talk about late mate. Try again with someone else perhaps, cause u didn't really follow through on this one bud. 

 

Good try tho.

[seon123]

4 minutes ago, TheReal1st said:

Jesus u didn't even read the latest comment from an actual PSU guy. We already answered it talk about late mate. Try again with someone else perhaps, cause u didn't really follow through on this one bud. 

 

Good try tho.

 

Didn't seem like you got anything he was talking about. He mentioned objectively crappy PSU models, you went on about individuals faulty units. 

Also, a PSU can power a system while killing it, or while being a time bomb. What would you rather have? A PSU that powers your PC while killing it, and that will eventually blow up, or a PSU that stops working before any of that can happen?

EVGA has a cult following, sort of like Apple. They refuse to accept that they have issues, or try to buy their way out of problems, rather than doing the sensible thing, which is to return the PSU. Sensible consumers tend to not get EVGA PSUs. 

[Guest]

6 hours ago, TheReal1st said:

I get from your end it seems like the 2600x is a better deal. But I and alot of people on here know overclocking(OCing for short fyi) And I know Ryzen chips very well. The X variant isn't worth even a $5 raise in price that is how much it matters getting that one. Know why?? All AMD did was OC a slightly different 2600 to the base clock of what they advertise the 2600x to be. Therefore your paying them more money to OC a chip by a little fucking bit when your LITERALLY going to OC it way past that. And you know what else you get with the X variant you get no stock cooler so your forced to buy a 30 cooler. Which not only negates the money u thought u saved but u also got fucked by AMD with out even knowing it.

 

..........Ok well now u know it. So I hope u chose right. A good way to summarize AMD's chips for the next 3 years is NEVER GET THE X variant. Its a marketing pile of shit that they sell only so those who are scared of OC the chip (which FYI is simple as shit seriously look it up) thats who this chip is for the pleb who can't use there fucking brain inside there skull to think for a sec before buying and believing what ever the fuck the company told them about said item. 

- Rant done

 

That is wrong. The R5 2600X includes a stock cooler (AMD Spire 95W TDP) as opposed to the R5 2600 (AMD Stealth 65W TDP).

 

As for which is better well that would depend on the price. I would certainly pay an extra $5/£5 if it meant getting a better stock cooler. Of course if you are looking for a max overclock then you wouldn't be using the stock option anyway most likely.

 

https://www.techspot.com/article/1618-ryzen-2600x-vs-2600/

[Dragonuser2000]

I'll probably get the 2600, overclock it which would require a cooler. I was thinking the ARCTIC - Freezer 33 eSports ONE should be fine. It doesn't have any reviews on partpicker itself but based on reviews on amazon and youtube videos it seems pretty good and should be compatible. To be honest, I'm kind of lost in the whole conversation but from the looks of it I should be fine with the case and storage devices. Although the rest seem to have a debate.