Jump to content

PC Switches on, off then back on after Overclocking?

Hi,

 

So recently I've been getting into overclocking cause my CPU (i7-8700k is liquid cooled, not delided). I followed a guide online and pushed the CPU to 5Ghz following the 1.35V was according to some Forums a decent voltage, however, I've switched off all of my CPU and Memory overclocks (my GPU is still clocked, it's a 1080ti at 2088Mhz). The problem I'm running into is whenever I start my PC with any settings (from my testing) changed in the BIOS as soon as I press the power button everything lights up for approx 0.5 seconds, switches off then back on again and it loads perfectly fine. I have no idea why this is happening and if it should be happening at all, if I turn everything back to default it starts normally without a hitch. 

 

Leading onto my other question: the recommend voltage for 5Ghz is apparently 1.35V (I don't know if this is false or not), however, leaving the voltage settings on Auto in the BIOS, when I check CPU-Z and Corsair Link (they show similar results within 0.001 of each other) they're both hanging around 1.392 to 1.4v range, this is higher than what I've seen is needed for 5Ghz, is that right?

 

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)

cpu-z.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

try lowering the voltage to 1.3 and reducing the overclock slightly

Bethesda PC:   R7 3700X  -  Asrock B550 Extreme 4  -  Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 16GB@3.6GHz -  Zotac AMP Extreme 1080TI -  Samsung 860 Evo 256GB  -  WD Blue 2TB SSD -  500DX  -  Stock cooling lul  -  Rm650x

CrumpleBox V3:  Xeon X5680  -  Asus X58 Sabertooth  -  DDr3 16GB@1.33Ghz  -  Gigabyte 1660s -  TT smart RGB 700W  -  

Cooler Master Storm Trooper  -  120GB Samsung 850 Pro   -  LTT Edition Chromax NH-D15 ?

 

CrumpleBox 3 ROTF: I5-6400  -  MSI B150m Mortar  -  16GB 2133Mhz Vengeance Pro RGB  -  Strix 1070Ti - GTX 1070 FE  -  Adata 128GB SSD  -  Fractal Design Define C  -  Gammaxx 400V2  -  Cooler Master silent pro gold 1000W

CrumpleBox 2: i7-7820x - MSI X299 Raider - 32GB Thermaltake Toughram 3.6Ghz - 2x Sapphire Nitro Fury - 128GB PCie Adata SSD - O11 Dynamic - EVGA CLC 360 - Corsair RM1000X

 

Perhiperals:  Gateway 900p60 monitor  -  Dell 1024x768@75  -  Logi. G403 Carbon  -  Logi. G502  -  SteSer. Arctis 5  -  SteSer. Rival 110 - Corsair Strafe RGB MK.2

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

What mobo? 

PC Specs: Intel Core i7-8700k - Asus ROG Z370 MAXIMUS X HERO - 2x8gb Kingston Predator DDR4 3200MHz - MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti gaming X Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 - Samsung 850 PRO 256gb - Samsung 850 EVO 500gb - Seagate Barracuda 2tb - Fractal Design Meshify C - Asus PCE-AC56 - Be Quiet! Straight Power 10 CM 700W.

Peripherals: Corsair K70 LUX - Steelseries Rival 310 - Dell S2417DG - Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro - Audioengine D1.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

From the looks of it you're only running at the turbo speed on that cpu-z screenshot, so it sounds as though your OC is crashing and defaulting back to stock settings. When you go into the BIOS after it does the on, off, then back on, does it still show the 5Ghz OC as being applied, or is everything back to normal/stock settings?

Edit - oh just read the part that it does this with any non-stock settings, that's certainly odd. Try doing a CMOS reset(something could have changed that you didnt realise) and if that doesn't work, might be worth updating the bios if a newer version is available.

 

 

Also 1.39 volts is still alright to run at with your cooling setup, anything over 1.4 is pushing it, and 1.45 would be the absolute maximum.

PC - CPU Ryzen 5 1600 - GPU Power Color Radeon 5700XT- Motherboard Gigabyte GA-AB350 Gaming - RAM 16GB Corsair Vengeance RGB - Storage 525GB Crucial MX300 SSD + 120GB Kingston SSD   PSU Corsair CX750M - Cooling Stock - Case White NZXT S340

 

Peripherals - Mouse Logitech G502 Wireless - Keyboard Logitech G915 TKL  Headset Razer Kraken Pro V2's - Displays 2x Acer 24" GF246(1080p, 75hz, Freesync) Steering Wheel & Pedals Logitech G29 & Shifter

 

         

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, so I've asked some work colleagues and they say it could be the Mobo switching from the default profile to the OC version, I mean, I've been on my PC for a few hours and it did the off and on, it's at 5Ghz running at 1.320 volts and I've stressed tested it for like 30 minutes it's holding fine when gaming, I have absolutely no idea, I'll look into the CMOS reset. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Also my motherboard is an Asus Maximus X Hero

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had this issue with my new 8350K + ROG STRIX Z370F. Newest BIOS. This would only happen after turning and leaving the PSU off for a while. I wrote down my OC settings from the BIOS, loaded optimized defaults in BIOS, restarted and tested. No weird restart. Reentered my OC settings - and now it's fine. It's weird though but strange to see other people with the same problem.

Main rig: i7 8086K // EVGA Z370 Micro // 16GB Gskill TridentZ 3200Mhz CL14 // Sapphire Pulse RX 7800XT// a variety of noctua cooling // Corsair RM750x v2 //  Fractal Meshify C

Secondary rig: R5 3600 // MSI B450i Gaming Plus // 16GB Gskill FlareX 3200CL14 // MSI GTX 1080ti Gaming X // Cooler Master V650 // Fractal Meshify C

Audio setup: Audient iD4 // Adam A7X // Sennheiser HD 650 // Sennheiser HD 25-II // Audio Technica M50x // Sennheiser Momentum 4

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, TipsyDriver said:

Also my motherboard is an Asus Maximus X Hero

I'm having the same mobo as you and it behaves exactly the same as yours. So I wouldn't worry too much.

 

Mine does the same thing: turning on for a second, turning off, turning on again and then boots to Windows.

PC Specs: Intel Core i7-8700k - Asus ROG Z370 MAXIMUS X HERO - 2x8gb Kingston Predator DDR4 3200MHz - MSI GeForce GTX 1080 Ti gaming X Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 - Samsung 850 PRO 256gb - Samsung 850 EVO 500gb - Seagate Barracuda 2tb - Fractal Design Meshify C - Asus PCE-AC56 - Be Quiet! Straight Power 10 CM 700W.

Peripherals: Corsair K70 LUX - Steelseries Rival 310 - Dell S2417DG - Beyerdynamic Custom One Pro - Audioengine D1.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, partymarty said:

I'm having the same mobo as you and it behaves exactly the same as yours. So I wouldn't worry too much.

 

Mine does the same thing: turning on for a second, turning off, turning on again and then boots to Windows.

But the thing is, for the POST code LEDs, the CPU light go on, THEN it turns off, possibly indicating a problem with the CPU.

Main rig: i7 8086K // EVGA Z370 Micro // 16GB Gskill TridentZ 3200Mhz CL14 // Sapphire Pulse RX 7800XT// a variety of noctua cooling // Corsair RM750x v2 //  Fractal Meshify C

Secondary rig: R5 3600 // MSI B450i Gaming Plus // 16GB Gskill FlareX 3200CL14 // MSI GTX 1080ti Gaming X // Cooler Master V650 // Fractal Meshify C

Audio setup: Audient iD4 // Adam A7X // Sennheiser HD 650 // Sennheiser HD 25-II // Audio Technica M50x // Sennheiser Momentum 4

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

It also could be LLC doing its thing. My gigabyte board does that when I enable it on my AMD system. Been working perfectly fine for many years now, so I don't worry about it. 

I refuse to read threads whose author does not know how to remove the caps lock! 

— Grumpy old man

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, chckovsky said:

But the thing is, for the POST code LEDs, the CPU light go on, THEN it turns off, possibly indicating a problem with the CPU.

Nah, when I overclocked my P4 its motherboard did it all the time...

 

Now if it goes into a rebooting loop and doesn't reset to stock settings, that's something to worry about xD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay, that's fine, so another question: I turned it on today and it started to boot to Windows then frooze? Switched off my CPU clock, left the memory clock on, is that to low of a voltage? Should I increase the LLC? Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is video I followed for 5Ghz 

Time stamp for Overclocking is 5:03, if anyone wants to watch that, can they tell me whether these settings are good or not right at all. He's running the same mobo and CPU as I am

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

If windows freezes after the overclock is enabled, it's not a stable overclock. 

I refuse to read threads whose author does not know how to remove the caps lock! 

— Grumpy old man

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just now, TipsyDriver said:

This is video I followed for 5Ghz 

Time stamp for Overclocking is 5:03, if anyone wants to watch that, can they tell me whether these settings are good or not right at all. 

You have to remember, every overclock will not be identical, as the Silicon on each cpu varies from chip to chip. These videos are usually good for a baseline, and from there you start tweaking it. 

I refuse to read threads whose author does not know how to remove the caps lock! 

— Grumpy old man

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

26 minutes ago, miagisan said:

If windows freezes after the overclock is enabled, it's not a stable overclock. 

Okay so, I left my machine off for like 15 minutes with this clock, switched it on, it didn't turn off and on again, it just stayed on (which surprised me) then the feed to my monitor went as soon as it got out of the BIOS, turned it off and back on again and it booted fine? Still unstable? Any settings that I should definitely tweak. I'm going to switch it off again and leave it for a little while and try again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think it's removing the settings, every time I boot back into the BIOS it says load previous values and then when I go to exit and restart it says about saving values I haven't actually modified in that instance. I've backed it down to 4.8Ghz with an AVX offset of 1 with a voltage of 1.330, going to restart it and see if it holds up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, TipsyDriver said:

I think it's removing the settings, every time I boot back into the BIOS it says load previous values and then when I go to exit and restart it says about saving values I haven't actually modified in that instance. I've backed it down to 4.8Ghz with an AVX offset of 1 with a voltage of 1.330, going to restart it and see if it holds up.

It will reset the overclock if it's not stable. 

I refuse to read threads whose author does not know how to remove the caps lock! 

— Grumpy old man

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I'm just getting really bad luck, the only thing I can tweak without Windows freezing on Startup is changing the DRAM Frequency to it's advertised 3200Mhz, if I change the Core Clock up by 0.1 from 4.7 to 4.8 it won't boot unless I restart it after Windows freezes, I cannot even apply an XMP Memory Profile without it freezing (I tried applying this while the CPU is running stock). Am I just getting really bad luck here?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×