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New build - Any components I ought to swap?

4 hours ago, KasperHJ said:

Thanks for your input... It's a balancing act here - whether the 1050 Ti is "enough" or will begin caughing sooner than expected, versus buying something over the top and never get benefit of the extra spent...

like i said it depends on what games you are playing. If you are playing Escape from tarkov, Squad, Arma 3 or any future graphic intensive game its good to invest a little more by future proofing your pc. 

 

If you are playing like Fortnite, Rainbow Six siege or anything like that then yeah i wouldnt waste your money. 

 

I just dont want you to waste your time building something you may have to upgrade later. but like i said it depends on what you are doing and what type of games you play 

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10 minutes ago, PurplDrank said:

like i said it depends on what games you are playing. If you are playing Escape from tarkov, Squad, Arma 3 or any future graphic intensive game its good to invest a little more by future proofing your pc. 

 

If you are playing like Fortnite, Rainbow Six siege or anything like that then yeah i wouldnt waste your money. 

 

I just dont want you to waste your time building something you may have to upgrade later. but like i said it depends on what you are doing and what type of games you play 

All I'm playing at the moment is Cities Skylines... Seba7661 mentioned earlier in the thread that this game was more CPU than GPU heavy, and suggested a 1030 with a higher performing CPU (than the i5-7500 i originally had chosen). So as I changed to the Ryzen 5 1600 build, I stuck with the 1050 Ti...

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Just now, KasperHJ said:

All I'm playing at the moment is Cities Skylines... Seba7661 mentioned earlier in the thread that this game was more CPU than GPU heavy, and suggested a 1030 with a higher performing CPU (than the i5-7500 i originally had chosen). So as I changed to the Ryzen 5 1600 build, I stuck with the 1050 Ti...

Yeah then that build should do you fine then. Good job bud 

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23 minutes ago, KasperHJ said:

Both the C27HG70 and the C32HG70 is 1440p and are 16:9 - it's the same monitor only larger...

https://www.samsung.com/us/computing/monitors/gaming/32--chg70-gaming-monitor-with-quantum-dot-lc32hg70qqnxza/

The C34 you mention, is that the LC34F791 or the LC34H890? Those are awesome monitors, but yes it's not optimized for gaming...


 

1440p 144Hz monitor? I'm not against overbuying a monitor, but at this resolution, 1050ti wont pull 60fps in Cities Skyline unless you zoom out, using low settings.

CPU: i7-2600K 4751MHz 1.44V (software) --> 1.47V at the back of the socket Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Extreme4 (BCLK: 103.3MHz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 RAM: Adata XPG 2x8GB DDR3 (XMP: 2133MHz 10-11-11-30 CR2, custom: 2203MHz 10-11-10-26 CR1 tRFC:230 tREFI:14000) GPU: Asus GTX 1070 Dual (Super Jetstream vbios, +70(2025-2088MHz)/+400(8.8Gbps)) SSD: Samsung 840 Pro 256GB (main boot drive), Transcend SSD370 128GB PSU: Seasonic X-660 80+ Gold Case: Antec P110 Silent, 5 intakes 1 exhaust Monitor: AOC G2460PF 1080p 144Hz (150Hz max w/ DP, 121Hz max w/ HDMI) TN panel Keyboard: Logitech G610 Orion (Cherry MX Blue) with SteelSeries Apex M260 keycaps Mouse: BenQ Zowie FK1

 

Model: HP Omen 17 17-an110ca CPU: i7-8750H (0.125V core & cache, 50mV SA undervolt) GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Mobile (+80/+450, 1650MHz~1750MHz 0.78V~0.85V) RAM: 8+8GB DDR4-2400 18-17-17-39 2T Storage: HP EX920 1TB PCIe x4 M.2 SSD + Crucial MX500 1TB 2.5" SATA SSD, 128GB Toshiba PCIe x2 M.2 SSD (KBG30ZMV128G) gone cooking externally, 1TB Seagate 7200RPM 2.5" HDD (ST1000LM049-2GH172) left outside Monitor: 1080p 126Hz IPS G-sync

 

Desktop benching:

Cinebench R15 Single thread:168 Multi-thread: 833 

SuperPi (v1.5 from Techpowerup, PI value output) 16K: 0.100s 1M: 8.255s 32M: 7m 45.93s

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52 minutes ago, Jurrunio said:

1440p 144Hz monitor? I'm not against overbuying a monitor, but at this resolution, 1050ti wont pull 60fps in Cities Skyline unless you zoom out, using low settings.

Hmmm... Yeah I understand that 2550x1440 might be a little high for the 1050 Ti ...

I supose there will always be a bottle neck somwhere in the system, now we're trying to avoid any of them! But I guess I've got two options now:
- Enjoy the monitor settings during "normal usage", and lower the resolution/settings in Cities Skylines.

- Upgrading the graphics card to a 1060 or RX570 you also mentioned.

 

Or a combination... Go for the 27" instead of the 32" and upgrade the graphics card as well, as the 27" has equal specs and would equally demanding I imagine...

 

Just called the dealer... The 1050 Ti have been shipped today, but they told me I could either return it and get my money back, or test it out and return it within 2 weeks and still get my money back... So unless we know it's the wrong graphics card for my usage to begin with there's no rush now :-)

 

 

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So, all my parts arrived and got it put together today! - Except the graphics card which will arrive later - but that's not a problem since the motherboard got HDMI ports, so I'll get the system started ...

 

But, now it doesn't work... CPU-fan and Case-fan spins, led on case lights up, no signal is sent to the monitor.

Turned out I had forgotten the 8-pin power! (DOH!) ... got it done, more spinning in different speeds from CPU-fan, case fan still runs - still no signal to monitor...

 

Have now tried with two different monitors (HDMI --> DVI) and with a LFD (HDMI --> HDMI), no change, can't get monitor to register any input.

Presses F2 to enter BIOS, not getting it shown either.

Have now tried to start up the system without SSD and without RAM... system runs for 15 secs, then shutsdown, switches back on, and this continues forever...

 

Now I'm thinking that when the grapics card arrives I'll try using it's output to see if that makes any difference...

 

Any ideas?

 

EDIT!! Now the graphics card arrived, plugged it in, moved the HDMI cable from the IO Panel to the graphics card, and it works!! I get the Asrock logo and the options of pressing F2 or Del for BIOS, etc....
Now the problem is that no matter what I press, nothing happen and I don't move forward from this point at all....

 

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It would help if we knew system details like cpu, motherboard, etc.

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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On 13/04/2018 at 5:43 PM, brob said:

It would help if we knew system details like cpu, motherboard, etc.

Of course, sorry, items have changed since the beginning of this thread, I got a little carried away!

 

Motherboard - Asrock Fatal1ty AB350 Gaming-ITX/ac
CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 1600
RAM - 2 x 8GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical DDR4 2666 MHz
GPU - Gigabyte GTX 1060 WindForce OC 3GB

 

Have just tested again this morning, no change.

When powering on the system after a few seconds the CPU fan spins up, the AsRock logo is displayed on the monitor, and the options of pressing F2 or Del for BIOS, F11 for boot devices, etc...

Nothing happens when I press anything on the keyboard, as nothing was shown on the monitor when the HDMI cable what in the onboard HDMI port ...

I've tried all available USB ports, makes no difference...

 

Tried starting up without RAM, system doesn't spin up CPU fan, but shutsdown and on again automatically, this repeats infinitily...

 

Could it be the entire IO panel that's defective?

Is there any plug or jumper I might have missed?
Any cable missing?

 

EDIT: Continued testing this morning, took everything apart... put it back together at powered it up at a bare minimum, WORKED! I could now enter the BIOS. Began assembling again and, plugged in SSD, stopped working - unplugged power for SSD, works again... It's a brand new Samsung EVO 840....?!

 

EDIT AGAIN: I've now been working on the system all day long, trying to get Murphy's Law of my back here!! I took the entire system apart and assembled it again with only the basic needs, then it worked, I could enter the BIOS. Added another stick of RAM and the graphics card, still worked, added the SSD, not working, huh?! ... Disconnected the SSD again, worked again....!
Brand new SSD not working, I've got no idea why, found another one laying around that's working. Now got Windows 10 installed and are getting ready to transfer all my stuff and shut the old one down :-)

Edited by KasperHJ
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I hope you are not plugging in and unplugging components with power going through the system.

 

You are saying you can boot into BIOS without the ssd plugged in. But when you attach the ssd (power & data cables) the system will not boot? 

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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4 hours ago, brob said:

I hope you are not plugging in and unplugging components with power going through the system.

 

You are saying you can boot into BIOS without the ssd plugged in. But when you attach the ssd (power & data cables) the system will not boot? 

Oh no, powered down completely every time between boot attempts...

 

Yes correct.... without the graphics card I didn't get any signal to the monitor... then plugged in the graphics card and use its HDMI port... then I got the AsRock logo and the F-options, but nothing happened at any keystrokes...
Took the system apart and put it back together, then I got signal to the monitor from the IO panels HDMI port - don't know what was different... plugged in graphics card and 2nd stick of RAM, tested again, still worked... plugged in the new blank SSD, got logo again, but no respond to any keystrokes... unplugged SSD, worked again...

Tried to put the SSD in my old computer as a 2nd disk which it then tried to boot on, of course, it failed since it was still empty...
I've got a SATA-USB adapter at work so I'll try to test it there on Monday ... :-)

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Did you try different SATA ports on the motherboard?

 

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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16 hours ago, brob said:

Did you try different SATA ports on the motherboard?

 

Yeah, a friend of mine suggested that too, no change though... but hopefully I'll get more info tomorrow when I can test the SSD more thoroughly....

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5 minutes ago, KasperHJ said:

Yeah, a friend of mine suggested that too, no change though... but hopefully I'll get more info tomorrow when I can test the SSD more thoroughly....

Unlikely that it is the ssd since it did not cause similar behavior in another system.

 

Have you tried resetting the BIOS?

 

BTW the reason the motherboard HDMI port did not work is because the cpu does not have an integrated gpu.

80+ ratings certify electrical efficiency. Not quality.

 

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If I were you, I'd drop the 1050 Ti, and get a Ryzen 3 2200G, or if you've got the budget go for the 2400G. Will provide good performance in light games, will be more cost effective, and you could take some of the budget and use it for higher speed RAM instead. Would recommend about 3000mHz for Ryzen APUs 

REMEMBER:

IF YOU WANT ME TO RESPOND, YOU GOTTA QUOTE ME 

OR

PUT @Fixinit1 IN YOUR RESPONSE!!!!!

 

 

Gosh, I hate it when people forget. Anyway, check out my PC below, and there's a PCPartPicker link on my profile, If you wanna see what I'm planning.

Spoiler

SYSTEM SPECS: Finally ditched the Pentium N3540, now I've got the following:

 

CPU - Ryzen 5 2400G

GPU - 1060 6GB Gigabyte G1 Gaming

RAM - 16GB DDR4 3000mhz Team T-Force Delta RGB

MOTHERBOARD - MSI B350 Tomahawk

PSU - EVGA 450BT

CASE - PHANTEKS  P350X

 

 

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On 15/04/2018 at 3:46 PM, brob said:

Unlikely that it is the ssd since it did not cause similar behavior in another system.

 

Have you tried resetting the BIOS?

 

BTW the reason the motherboard HDMI port did not work is because the cpu does not have an integrated gpu.

Sorry for my disappearance! Heavy hit with work these past days! :-)

 

I do agree that the SSD shouldn't cause the entire system to halt, but it did... Any of the SATA ports on the motherboard used made no difference, the only thing that made it possible to enter the BIOS was to disconnect the SSD... I truly can't understand or explain it - but it's working now, so, never mind :-)

 

Thanks for the clarifcation regarding the onboard HDMI-ports. I had no idea the lack of GPU in the CPU was sthe cause - I thought the motherboard had an integrated GPU if any display outputs were present :-D

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On 15/04/2018 at 5:05 PM, Fixinit1 said:

If I were you, I'd drop the 1050 Ti, and get a Ryzen 3 2200G, or if you've got the budget go for the 2400G. Will provide good performance in light games, will be more cost effective, and you could take some of the budget and use it for higher speed RAM instead. Would recommend about 3000mHz for Ryzen APUs 

Thanks for your inputs - though the buld have been purchased and assembled now :-)

 

I ended up with the Ryzen 5 1600, along with 2 x 8GB 2666 MHz Crucial Ballistix Tactical RAM, and a Gigabyte GTX 1060 instead of the 1050 Ti initially planned...

Still haven't had the time to really get going with my Cities Skylines game after the swap, but hope the weekend bring some good hours infront of the monitor! :-D

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