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Building a gaming computer and need some help

AoD

Hey guys, I am a young computer enthusiast and have built a computer rig that I plan on gaming with. I am looking for some advice and thoughts about the components I have chosen and if they will work well together and not be bottlenecked anywhere.

Here is a list of my components: 

CPU             - AMD Ryzen 7 1700x 3.4Ghz 8-core

CPU Cooler - Cooler Master - Hyper 212 LED 66.3 CFM Rifle Bearing

Motherboard- Gigabyte - GA-AB350-Gaming ATX AM4 

Memory       - Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 2400Mhz

HDD            - Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM

SSD            - Samsung - 860 Evo 250GB 2.5"

GPU           - Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB AORUS 

Case          - BitFenix - Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case

PSU           - SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX

 

My current monitor is 1920 by 1080, but I may upgrade in the future. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

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-overpriced hard drive, just get a Toshiba P300 or Seagate Barracuda

-Ryzen 7 1700 to save money, same thing

-stock cooler

 

(Use PCPartPicker

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Delta (Laptop) | Galaxy S21 Ultra | Pacific Spirit XT (Server)

Full Specs

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Helios EVO (Main):

Intel Core™ i9-10900KF | 32GB G.Skill Ripjaws V / Team T-Force DDR4-3000 | GIGABYTE Z590 AORUS ELITE | MSI GAMING X GeForce RTX 3060 Ti 8GB GPU | NZXT H510 | EVGA G5 650W | MasterLiquid ML240L | 2x 2TB HDD | 256GB SX6000 Pro SSD | 3x Corsair SP120 RGB | Fractal Design Venturi HF-14

 

Pacific Spirit XT - Server

Intel Core™ i7-8700K (Won at LTX, signed by Dennis) | GIGABYTE Z370 AORUS GAMING 5 | 16GB Team Vulcan DDR4-3000 | Intel UrfpsgonHD 630 | Define C TG | Corsair CX450M

 

Delta - Laptop

ASUS TUF Dash F15 - Intel Core™ i7-11370H | 16GB DDR4 | RTX 3060 | 500GB NVMe SSD | 200W Brick | 65W USB-PD Charger

 


 

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Are there any main performance differences between the Toshiba P300 and WD's Black series?

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17 minutes ago, AoD said:

Are there any main performance differences between the Toshiba P300 and WD's Black series?

For games, no. For other types of work that heavily task the read/write process there would be a small gain in the WD Black.

I actually have both drives in my systems, I really like the p300 for its price/performance and the black for its performance (but not so much liking the price, so only if you need the gain or get it at a good deal like i did)

My Gaming PC: 27833

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14 minutes ago, AoD said:

Are there any main performance differences between the Toshiba P300 and WD's Black series?

Minimal ones at best. I agree with JDE for the most part but I'd keep the Hyper 212. Good build otherwise.

CPU: AMD R5 5600x | Mainboard: MSI MAG B550m Mortar Wifi | RAM: 32GB Crucial Ballistix 3200 Rev E | GPU: MSI RTX 2070 Armor | Case: Xigmatek Aquila | PSU: Corsair RM650i | SSDs: Crucial BX300 120GB | Samsung 840 EVO 120GB | Crucial m500 120GB | HDDs: 2x Seagate Barracuda 4TB | CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2 | Casefans: Bitfenix Spectre LED red 200mm (Intake), Bequiet Pure Wings 2 140mm (Exhaust) | OS: Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit

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Not sure how accurate UB is,

http://hdd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/WD-Black-4TB-2016-vs-Toshiba-P300-1TB/3908vs3589

If it spins, it's slow. But it seems the WD is faster.

 

Can you wait till April 19th? AMD is refreshing the line up then with processors that have 8-15% more performance if the leaks are to be believed. What kind of budget are you working with?

 

I'm kind of torn on the 1700x and your motherboard. Depending on what you're planning to do with the system, chances are the 6 core 1600x (or 2600x if you wait a few weeks) would serve you better as they have better single threaded performance. If you go that route, you could potentially get a nicer motherboard with the extra $$

 

https://www.hardwarezone.com.sg/feature-amd-ryzen-5-vs-ryzen-7-which-ryzen-cpu-provides-most-bang-your-buck/gaming-benchmarks-overclocking-0

 

If money is not an issue, I personally would opt for an x370/X470 board as they tend to have nicer features (and SLI support if I & my pocket ever decide to go that route). 

 

The gtx 1060 is the sweet spot for 1080p gaming now. The question is what refresh rate does your monitor support? Are you planning on going 1440p or 4k down the road? if so you'll need a different gfx card at that point. 

 

AMD Ryzen 3950x under a Noctua D15S, 32 Gb G Skill FlareX 3200 DDR4 running at 3200 CL14, Gigabyte Aorus Pro 570 Wifi, Gigabyte 2070 Super hooked to a Dell U2718Q 4k HDR monitor & an Acer 1440p 144hz IPS panel of some kind, an Inland 1 TB M.2 PCIE 4 main drive, a Samsung NVME M.2 250Gb, WD Blue 500Gb  and 1 TB SSDs, Corsair RMX750, Rainbows and butterflies...

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29 minutes ago, AoD said:

Hey guys, I am a young computer enthusiast and have built a computer rig that I plan on gaming with. I am looking for some advice and thoughts about the components I have chosen and if they will work well together and not be bottlenecked anywhere.

Here is a list of my components: 

CPU             - AMD Ryzen 7 1700x 3.4Ghz 8-core

CPU Cooler - Cooler Master - Hyper 212 LED 66.3 CFM Rifle Bearing

Motherboard- Gigabyte - GA-AB350-Gaming ATX AM4 

Memory       - Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 2400Mhz

HDD            - Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM

SSD            - Samsung - 860 Evo 250GB 2.5"

GPU           - Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB AORUS 

Case          - BitFenix - Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case

PSU           - SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX

 

My current monitor is 1920 by 1080, but I may upgrade in the future. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

oh and by the way, like others have said, I would get the 1700 and use stock cooler, then the p300 and then consider faster RAM for the money you save. Ryzen really like fast ram to give the best performance

My Gaming PC: 27833

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30 minutes ago, AoD said:

Hey guys, I am a young computer enthusiast and have built a computer rig that I plan on gaming with. I am looking for some advice and thoughts about the components I have chosen and if they will work well together and not be bottlenecked anywhere.

Here is a list of my components: 

CPU             - AMD Ryzen 7 1700x 3.4Ghz 8-core

CPU Cooler - Cooler Master - Hyper 212 LED 66.3 CFM Rifle Bearing

Motherboard- Gigabyte - GA-AB350-Gaming ATX AM4 

Memory       - Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 2400Mhz

HDD            - Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM

SSD            - Samsung - 860 Evo 250GB 2.5"

GPU           - Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB AORUS 

Case          - BitFenix - Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case

PSU           - SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX

 

My current monitor is 1920 by 1080, but I may upgrade in the future. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

If you're going with something like a 1060, I'd go with a 650/750W PSU to give yourself some headroom in terms of power later on, you know incase you wanted to upgrade to a 1070 or one of the Volta/Turing GPU's. Ryzen 7 1700X is the same as a 1700, just go with the normal 1700. I'd recommend going with a Seagate HDD for your large storage needs, that WD drive is overpriced and you can get a decent quality drive from Seagate for WAY less.

There are 10 types of people in this world. Those that understand binary and those that don't.

Current Rig (Dominator II): 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3133 C15, AMD Ryzen 3 1200 at 4GHz, Coolermaster MasterLiquid Lite 120, ASRock B450M Pro4, AMD R9 280X, 120GB TCSunBow SSD, 3TB Seagate ST3000DM001-9YN166 HSD, Corsair CX750M Grey Label, Windows 10 Pro, 2x CoolerMaster MasterFan Pro 120, Thermaltake Versa H18 Tempered Glass.

 

Previous Rig (Black Magic): 8GB DDR3 1600, AMD FX6300 OC'd to 4.5GHz, Zalman CNPS5X Performa, Asus M5A78L-M PLUS /USB3, GTX 950 SC (former, it blew my PCIe lane so now on mobo graphics which is Radeon HD 3000 Series), 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 7200RPM HDD, 3TB Seagate ST3000DM001-9YN166 HDD (secondary), Corsair CX750M, Windows 8.1 Pro, 2x 120mm Red LED fans, Deepcool SMARTER case

 

My secondary rig (The Oldie): 4GB DDR2 800, Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 @ 3GHz, Stock Dell Cooler, Foxconn 0RY007, AMD Radeon HD 5450, 250GB Samsung Spinpoint 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management. UPDATE: SPECS UPGRADED DUE TO CASEMOD, 8GB DDR2 800, AMD Phenom X4 9650, Zalman CNPS5X Performa, Biostar GF8200C M2+, AMD Radeon HD 7450 GDDR5 edition, Samsung Spinpoint 250GB 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management and support for non Dell boards.

 

Retired/Dead Rigs: The OG (retired) (First ever PC I used at 3 years old back in 2005) Current Specs: 2GB DDR2, Pentium M 770 @ 2.13GHz, 60GB IDE laptop HDD, ZorinOS 12 Ultimate x86. Originally 512mb DDR2, Pentium M 740 @ 1.73GHzm 60GB IDE laptop HDD and single boot XP Pro. The Craptop (dead), 2gb DDR3, Celeron n2840 @ 2.1GHz, 50GB eMMC chip, Windows 10 Pro. Nightrider (dead and cannibalized for Dominator II): Ryzen 3 1200, Gigabyte A320M HD2, 8GB DDR4, XFX Ghost Core Radeon HD 7770, 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 (2010), 3TB Seagate Barracuda, Corsair CX750M Green, Deepcool SMARTER, Windows 10 Home.

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16 minutes ago, AoD said:

Are there any main performance differences between the Toshiba P300 and WD's Black series?

Hey, if you are just up to store some games and photos etc on your HDD go for a P300. The WD black has some safety features like Vibration Control Technology and some data loss protection. As a gamer I would pick the P300  or a WD Blue over the WD Black. But be careful the new WD Blue series only has 5400rpm instead of 7200rpm.

SYSTEM SPECS:

CPU: Intel i7 6700K @ 4700Mhz delidded

GPU: XFX Radeon RX Vega 64 Black

RAM: 16GB HyperX FURY DDR4-2400 Quad Kit

MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7-EK

SSD: 500GB Samsung 850, 480GB Toshiba Q300

HDD: 1TB WD Blue

PSU: Corsair CS850M

CASE: Corsair Graphite 780T

hwbot: http://hwbot.org/submission/3791927_

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1 minute ago, Glideslope said:

Hey, if you are just up to store some games and photos etc on your HDD go for a P300. The WD black has some safety features like Vibration Control Technology and some data loss protection. As a gamer I would pick the P300  or a WD Blue over the WD Black. But be careful the new WD Blue series only has 5400rpm instead of 7200rpm.

Why recommend a WD Blue if it's significantly slower?

There are 10 types of people in this world. Those that understand binary and those that don't.

Current Rig (Dominator II): 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3133 C15, AMD Ryzen 3 1200 at 4GHz, Coolermaster MasterLiquid Lite 120, ASRock B450M Pro4, AMD R9 280X, 120GB TCSunBow SSD, 3TB Seagate ST3000DM001-9YN166 HSD, Corsair CX750M Grey Label, Windows 10 Pro, 2x CoolerMaster MasterFan Pro 120, Thermaltake Versa H18 Tempered Glass.

 

Previous Rig (Black Magic): 8GB DDR3 1600, AMD FX6300 OC'd to 4.5GHz, Zalman CNPS5X Performa, Asus M5A78L-M PLUS /USB3, GTX 950 SC (former, it blew my PCIe lane so now on mobo graphics which is Radeon HD 3000 Series), 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 7200RPM HDD, 3TB Seagate ST3000DM001-9YN166 HDD (secondary), Corsair CX750M, Windows 8.1 Pro, 2x 120mm Red LED fans, Deepcool SMARTER case

 

My secondary rig (The Oldie): 4GB DDR2 800, Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 @ 3GHz, Stock Dell Cooler, Foxconn 0RY007, AMD Radeon HD 5450, 250GB Samsung Spinpoint 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management. UPDATE: SPECS UPGRADED DUE TO CASEMOD, 8GB DDR2 800, AMD Phenom X4 9650, Zalman CNPS5X Performa, Biostar GF8200C M2+, AMD Radeon HD 7450 GDDR5 edition, Samsung Spinpoint 250GB 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management and support for non Dell boards.

 

Retired/Dead Rigs: The OG (retired) (First ever PC I used at 3 years old back in 2005) Current Specs: 2GB DDR2, Pentium M 770 @ 2.13GHz, 60GB IDE laptop HDD, ZorinOS 12 Ultimate x86. Originally 512mb DDR2, Pentium M 740 @ 1.73GHzm 60GB IDE laptop HDD and single boot XP Pro. The Craptop (dead), 2gb DDR3, Celeron n2840 @ 2.1GHz, 50GB eMMC chip, Windows 10 Pro. Nightrider (dead and cannibalized for Dominator II): Ryzen 3 1200, Gigabyte A320M HD2, 8GB DDR4, XFX Ghost Core Radeon HD 7770, 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 (2010), 3TB Seagate Barracuda, Corsair CX750M Green, Deepcool SMARTER, Windows 10 Home.

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Do not buy the CPU and motherboard now! Ryzen 2 is scheduled to launch April 19th, along with it the 400 series of motherboards

 

You will also want faster ram for Ryzen, see my Ryzen memory guide in my signature for the reasons why! 

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

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6 minutes ago, xriqn said:

Why recommend a WD Blue if it's significantly slower?

Because the old 7200rpm WD Blue is as fast as the WD Black and its just great for storing games at a pretty good price/performance rate.

 

Edit: 

"WD Blue and WD Black are the best two Western Digital options for gaming, if we're ignoring competitors momentarily. WD Black 7200RPM HDDs ($100-$230) make the most sense for high-performance computing that requires increased capacity and endurance, though the vast majority of gamers would do well to opt for 1TB WD Blue 7200RPM HDDs at around $54.

In speaking with Western Digital, we learned that there's not any real technological difference between Blue and Black in terms of the processing and caching architecture; the differences primarily stem from platter density, platter count, and the chassis."

Steve Burke (https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/1741-wd-blue-vs-black-comparison-best-drive-for-gaming)

 

Edited by Glideslope

SYSTEM SPECS:

CPU: Intel i7 6700K @ 4700Mhz delidded

GPU: XFX Radeon RX Vega 64 Black

RAM: 16GB HyperX FURY DDR4-2400 Quad Kit

MOBO: Gigabyte GA-Z170X-Gaming 7-EK

SSD: 500GB Samsung 850, 480GB Toshiba Q300

HDD: 1TB WD Blue

PSU: Corsair CS850M

CASE: Corsair Graphite 780T

hwbot: http://hwbot.org/submission/3791927_

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5 hours ago, RyzenDoctor said:

Not sure how accurate UB is,

http://hdd.userbenchmark.com/Compare/WD-Black-4TB-2016-vs-Toshiba-P300-1TB/3908vs3589

If it spins, it's slow. But it seems the WD is faster.

 

Can you wait till April 19th? AMD is refreshing the line up then with processors that have 8-15% more performance if the leaks are to be believed. What kind of budget are you working with?

 

I'm kind of torn on the 1700x and your motherboard. Depending on what you're planning to do with the system, chances are the 6 core 1600x (or 2600x if you wait a few weeks) would serve you better as they have better single threaded performance. If you go that route, you could potentially get a nicer motherboard with the extra $$

 

https://www.hardwarezone.com.sg/feature-amd-ryzen-5-vs-ryzen-7-which-ryzen-cpu-provides-most-bang-your-buck/gaming-benchmarks-overclocking-0

 

If money is not an issue, I personally would opt for an x370/X470 board as they tend to have nicer features (and SLI support if I & my pocket ever decide to go that route). 

 

The gtx 1060 is the sweet spot for 1080p gaming now. The question is what refresh rate does your monitor support? Are you planning on going 1440p or 4k down the road? if so you'll need a different gfx card at that point. 

 

I can wait till mid April and will definitely see what new CPU's come out along with prices. Sadly money is influencing some of my decisions even though I really wish it wasn't. I currently have the Samsung SE2416h with a 60Hz refresh rate as my monitor, and I don't see myself buying a new one anytime soon, especially 4k. 

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5 hours ago, AT0MAC said:

oh and by the way, like others have said, I would get the 1700 and use stock cooler, then the p300 and then consider faster RAM for the money you save. Ryzen really like fast ram to give the best performance

I'll definitely look into this.

 

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5 hours ago, xriqn said:

If you're going with something like a 1060, I'd go with a 650/750W PSU to give yourself some headroom in terms of power later on, you know incase you wanted to upgrade to a 1070 or one of the Volta/Turing GPU's. Ryzen 7 1700X is the same as a 1700, just go with the normal 1700. I'd recommend going with a Seagate HDD for your large storage needs, that WD drive is overpriced and you can get a decent quality drive from Seagate for WAY less.

I am using PC Part Picker at the moment, and it calculates the total wattage for my build at 336W, so would going 300W's over that value not be dangerous at all or harmful for my computer's components?

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5 hours ago, stealth80 said:

Do not buy the CPU and motherboard now! Ryzen 2 is scheduled to launch April 19th, along with it the 400 series of motherboards

 

You will also want faster ram for Ryzen, see my Ryzen memory guide in my signature for the reasons why! 

Thank you

 

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5 hours ago, stealth80 said:

Do not buy the CPU and motherboard now! Ryzen 2 is scheduled to launch April 19th, along with it the 400 series of motherboards

 

You will also want faster ram for Ryzen, see my Ryzen memory guide in my signature for the reasons why! 

Do you think there will be any changes in RAM prices?

 

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6 hours ago, AoD said:

Hey guys, I am a young computer enthusiast and have built a computer rig that I plan on gaming with. I am looking for some advice and thoughts about the components I have chosen and if they will work well together and not be bottlenecked anywhere.

Here is a list of my components: 

CPU             - AMD Ryzen 7 1700x 3.4Ghz 8-core

CPU Cooler - Cooler Master - Hyper 212 LED 66.3 CFM Rifle Bearing

Motherboard- Gigabyte - GA-AB350-Gaming ATX AM4 

Memory       - Corsair Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 2400Mhz

HDD            - Western Digital - BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM

SSD            - Samsung - 860 Evo 250GB 2.5"

GPU           - Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB AORUS 

Case          - BitFenix - Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case

PSU           - SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX

 

My current monitor is 1920 by 1080, but I may upgrade in the future. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

 

  • Get the 1700, the x just gives your more stock clocks, but both will perform the same when overclocked
  • unless you plan on high overclocking you don't need the hyper 212 heatsink
  • memory you should upgrade to something over 3000mhz. The amd infinity fabric is highly ram speed dependant
  • You can get a similar hard drive for much less. You are paying extra for the black label.
  • I know the samsung 860 is fast, but for a 2.5 you could get a bigger ssd from another brand and speed difference would not be noticeable in real world usage.
  • Might consider getting a 650-750w power supply to give yourself a little more future proofing.
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21 minutes ago, AoD said:

I am using PC Part Picker at the moment, and it calculates the total wattage for my build at 336W, so would going 300W's over that value not be dangerous at all or harmful for my computer's components?

No, it's completely safe. Infact, I use a PSU that's more than double my power draw (EVGA 430W when power draw is a measly 212W) and it hasn't damaged my PC at all. Only reason it's more than double is because I can't put a GPU in due to my pcie x16 lane being dead.

There are 10 types of people in this world. Those that understand binary and those that don't.

Current Rig (Dominator II): 8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3133 C15, AMD Ryzen 3 1200 at 4GHz, Coolermaster MasterLiquid Lite 120, ASRock B450M Pro4, AMD R9 280X, 120GB TCSunBow SSD, 3TB Seagate ST3000DM001-9YN166 HSD, Corsair CX750M Grey Label, Windows 10 Pro, 2x CoolerMaster MasterFan Pro 120, Thermaltake Versa H18 Tempered Glass.

 

Previous Rig (Black Magic): 8GB DDR3 1600, AMD FX6300 OC'd to 4.5GHz, Zalman CNPS5X Performa, Asus M5A78L-M PLUS /USB3, GTX 950 SC (former, it blew my PCIe lane so now on mobo graphics which is Radeon HD 3000 Series), 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 7200RPM HDD, 3TB Seagate ST3000DM001-9YN166 HDD (secondary), Corsair CX750M, Windows 8.1 Pro, 2x 120mm Red LED fans, Deepcool SMARTER case

 

My secondary rig (The Oldie): 4GB DDR2 800, Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 @ 3GHz, Stock Dell Cooler, Foxconn 0RY007, AMD Radeon HD 5450, 250GB Samsung Spinpoint 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management. UPDATE: SPECS UPGRADED DUE TO CASEMOD, 8GB DDR2 800, AMD Phenom X4 9650, Zalman CNPS5X Performa, Biostar GF8200C M2+, AMD Radeon HD 7450 GDDR5 edition, Samsung Spinpoint 250GB 7200RPM HDD, Antec HCG 400M 400W Semi Modular PSU, Windows 8.1 Pro, 80mm Cooler Master fan, Dell Inspiron 530 Case modded for better cable management and support for non Dell boards.

 

Retired/Dead Rigs: The OG (retired) (First ever PC I used at 3 years old back in 2005) Current Specs: 2GB DDR2, Pentium M 770 @ 2.13GHz, 60GB IDE laptop HDD, ZorinOS 12 Ultimate x86. Originally 512mb DDR2, Pentium M 740 @ 1.73GHzm 60GB IDE laptop HDD and single boot XP Pro. The Craptop (dead), 2gb DDR3, Celeron n2840 @ 2.1GHz, 50GB eMMC chip, Windows 10 Pro. Nightrider (dead and cannibalized for Dominator II): Ryzen 3 1200, Gigabyte A320M HD2, 8GB DDR4, XFX Ghost Core Radeon HD 7770, 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 (2010), 3TB Seagate Barracuda, Corsair CX750M Green, Deepcool SMARTER, Windows 10 Home.

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22 minutes ago, AoD said:

Do you think there will be any changes in RAM prices?

 

doubtful, theres shortages of DRAM everywhere, its tablets and mobiles faults!! 

 

Ryzen Ram Guide

 

My Project Logs   Iced Blood    Temporal Snow    Temporal Snow Ryzen Refresh

 

CPU - Ryzen 1700 @ 4Ghz  Motherboard - Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5   Ram - 16Gb GSkill Trident Z RGB 3200  GPU - Palit 1080GTX Gamerock Premium  Storage - Samsung XP941 256GB, Crucial MX300 525GB, Seagate Barracuda 1TB   PSU - Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W  Case - INWIN 303 White Display - Asus PG278Q Gsync 144hz 1440P

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1 hour ago, AngryBeaver said:

 

  • Get the 1700, the x just gives your more stock clocks, but both will perform the same when overclocked
  • unless you plan on high overclocking you don't need the hyper 212 heatsink
  • memory you should upgrade to something over 3000mhz. The amd infinity fabric is highly ram speed dependant
  • You can get a similar hard drive for much less. You are paying extra for the black label.
  • I know the samsung 860 is fast, but for a 2.5 you could get a bigger ssd from another brand and speed difference would not be noticeable in real world usage.
  • Might consider getting a 650-750w power supply to give yourself a little more future proofing.

Do you have any ideas for a larger ssd from a reputable brand?

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1 hour ago, xriqn said:

No, it's completely safe. Infact, I use a PSU that's more than double my power draw (EVGA 430W when power draw is a measly 212W) and it hasn't damaged my PC at all. Only reason it's more than double is because I can't put a GPU in due to my pcie x16 lane being dead.

Sorry to hear about your lane :/ I've chosen to go with a 750W PSU.

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5 minutes ago, AoD said:

Do you have any ideas for a larger ssd from a reputable brand?

$110-$125 will get you a mx300 or pny ultra 480 or 512gb drive. 

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Here is a list of my new components based off of the responses I received: 

 

CPU             - AMD Ryzen 7 1700 3GHz 8 Core

CPU Cooler – AMD Wraith Spire LED Cooler

Motherboard- Gigabyte - GA-AB350-Gaming ATX AM4 

Memory       - Corsair Vengeance RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4 3200Mhz

HDD            - Toshiba P300 3TB 3.5 inches 7200RPM

SSD            - Crucial MX500 500GB 2.5 inches

GPU           - Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB AORUS 

Case          - BitFenix - Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case

PSU           - SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX

 

Does everything look good? I have just been getting some concerns about the motherboard.

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