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Broken GPU (Orange Juice Spill)

My friend gave me his Gigabyte GTX 1070 and told me I can keep it since it broke (he spilled orange juice over his computer and built a new one already). I took it home, took it apart, and cleaned it with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol and it seems to only have gotten on the back side of the board (no backplate) its been a few months since it happened and when we tested it before cleaning it wasn't working but one of the LED indicators lit up so we had hope. If anyone has advice for this it would help! Also, I don't have any new thermal paste at the moment to try the card after I've cleaned it and was wondering if it would be okay for me to test the card just for posting without any or if I should just wait 2 days for Amazon to mail me some.

gpu before cleaning.jpg

gpu before cleaning no shroud.jpg

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4 minutes ago, SourStrike said:

My friend gave me his Gigabyte GTX 1070 and told me I can keep it since it broke (he spilled orange juice over his computer and built a new one already). I took it home, took it apart, and cleaned it with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol and it seems to only have gotten on the back side of the board (no backplate) its been a few months since it happened and when we tested it before cleaning it wasn't working but one of the LED indicators lit up so we had hope. If anyone has advice for this it would help! Also, I don't have any new thermal paste at the moment to try the card after I've cleaned it and was wondering if it would be okay for me to test the card just for posting without any or if I should just wait 2 days for Amazon to mail me some.

gpu before cleaning.jpg

gpu before cleaning no shroud.jpg

I don't recommend it, I suggest to get the cooler on it. Also, you could use the oven method? I know it's not a fix, but it could help.

Main PC:

CPU: Intel Core i9 13900KS SP 116 (124P-102E) (6.1Ghz P-Cores 4.8Ghz E-cores) MC SP 88

CPU Voltage: LLC8 1.525V (real voltage 1.425V + - Temps 85-90 P-Cores, 70-73 E-cores)

Cooled by: Supercool Direct Die 14th gen full nickel

Motherboard: Z790 ASUS Maximus Apex Encore

RAM: GSkill TridentZ 2x24GB DDR5 8600Mhz CL38 (OC from 8000Mhz CL40)

GPU: RTX MSI 4090 Suprim X with EKWB waterblock

Case: My own case fabricated out of aluminium and wood

Storage: 4x 2TB Sarbent Rocket Plus Gen 4.0 NVMe, 1x External 2TB Seagate Barracuda (Backup)

WiFi: BE202 WiFi 7 Tri-Band card module

PSU: Corsair AX1600i with custom black and red cables with 2x Corsair 5V+ Load Balancer

Display: Samsung Oddysey G9 240Hz Ver. 5120x1440 with G-Sync and Freesync Premium Pro 1008 Firmware Ver, and 1x Electriq USB C 1080p 15'8 inch IPS portable display for temperature and stats, MSI 23'8 144Hz G-Sync

Fan Controllers:  6x AquaComputer Octo with 5 temperature sensors

Cooling: Three Custom Loops:

1st Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for GPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, red coolant

2nd Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for CPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, purple coolant

3rd Loop: 1x 240mm PE CoolStream radiator with 1x EKWB Revo D5 pump (RAM ONLY)

Total: 5x pumps and 13x radiators 50x 3000RPM Noctua Industrial fans

Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow V3 RGB - Green switches

Sound: Logitech Z680 5.1 THX Certified 505W Speakers

Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate Wireless with charging dock

Piano: Yamaha P155

Phone: Oppo Find X5 Pro

Camera: Logitech Brio Pro 4K

VR: Oculus Rift S

External SSD: 256GB Overclocking OS

LaptopMSI Titan GT77HX V13RTX 4090 175W, i9 13980HX OC: P-Cores 5.8Ghz 3 cores and 5.2Ghz 5 cores and E-Cores 4.3Ghz, 192GB of RAM @5600Mhz @3600 (chipset limit),

12TB (3x4TB) of NVMe, 17'3 inch 4K 144Hz MiniLED screen, 4x 17'3 ASUS portable USB-C Monitors 240Hz, Creative Sound Blaster G6 Sound Card, Portable 16TB NVMe in TB4 enclosures (8x2TB), Razer Basilisk Ultimate Wireless with charging dock gaming mouse, Keychron K3 gaming keyboard with blue switches low profile, Logitech Brio 4K Webcam.

Hand held: ROG Ally with XG Mobile RTX 3080 with Keychron K3 low profile keyboard (Blue Switches) and Razer Hyperspeed V3 mouse and 4TB NVMe upgrade (WDBlack SN850X), with 100W 20000Mah power bank and portable monitor ROG XG17AHP 17'3 inch 240Hz with built in battery, and 518Wh Power station for Camping.

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Just for safety purposes, I would wait until some new thermal compound arrives to test the card. In the meantime, I would recommend do the best you can to clean it off.

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6 minutes ago, SourStrike said:

My friend gave me his Gigabyte GTX 1070 and told me I can keep it since it broke (he spilled orange juice over his computer and built a new one already). I took it home, took it apart, and cleaned it with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol and it seems to only have gotten on the back side of the board (no backplate) its been a few months since it happened and when we tested it before cleaning it wasn't working but one of the LED indicators lit up so we had hope. If anyone has advice for this it would help! Also, I don't have any new thermal paste at the moment to try the card after I've cleaned it and was wondering if it would be okay for me to test the card just for posting without any or if I should just wait 2 days for Amazon to mail me some.

gpu before cleaning.jpg

gpu before cleaning no shroud.jpg

Also, use brake cleaner or Isopropyl Alcohol to clean it all completely.

Main PC:

CPU: Intel Core i9 13900KS SP 116 (124P-102E) (6.1Ghz P-Cores 4.8Ghz E-cores) MC SP 88

CPU Voltage: LLC8 1.525V (real voltage 1.425V + - Temps 85-90 P-Cores, 70-73 E-cores)

Cooled by: Supercool Direct Die 14th gen full nickel

Motherboard: Z790 ASUS Maximus Apex Encore

RAM: GSkill TridentZ 2x24GB DDR5 8600Mhz CL38 (OC from 8000Mhz CL40)

GPU: RTX MSI 4090 Suprim X with EKWB waterblock

Case: My own case fabricated out of aluminium and wood

Storage: 4x 2TB Sarbent Rocket Plus Gen 4.0 NVMe, 1x External 2TB Seagate Barracuda (Backup)

WiFi: BE202 WiFi 7 Tri-Band card module

PSU: Corsair AX1600i with custom black and red cables with 2x Corsair 5V+ Load Balancer

Display: Samsung Oddysey G9 240Hz Ver. 5120x1440 with G-Sync and Freesync Premium Pro 1008 Firmware Ver, and 1x Electriq USB C 1080p 15'8 inch IPS portable display for temperature and stats, MSI 23'8 144Hz G-Sync

Fan Controllers:  6x AquaComputer Octo with 5 temperature sensors

Cooling: Three Custom Loops:

1st Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for GPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, red coolant

2nd Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for CPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, purple coolant

3rd Loop: 1x 240mm PE CoolStream radiator with 1x EKWB Revo D5 pump (RAM ONLY)

Total: 5x pumps and 13x radiators 50x 3000RPM Noctua Industrial fans

Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow V3 RGB - Green switches

Sound: Logitech Z680 5.1 THX Certified 505W Speakers

Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate Wireless with charging dock

Piano: Yamaha P155

Phone: Oppo Find X5 Pro

Camera: Logitech Brio Pro 4K

VR: Oculus Rift S

External SSD: 256GB Overclocking OS

LaptopMSI Titan GT77HX V13RTX 4090 175W, i9 13980HX OC: P-Cores 5.8Ghz 3 cores and 5.2Ghz 5 cores and E-Cores 4.3Ghz, 192GB of RAM @5600Mhz @3600 (chipset limit),

12TB (3x4TB) of NVMe, 17'3 inch 4K 144Hz MiniLED screen, 4x 17'3 ASUS portable USB-C Monitors 240Hz, Creative Sound Blaster G6 Sound Card, Portable 16TB NVMe in TB4 enclosures (8x2TB), Razer Basilisk Ultimate Wireless with charging dock gaming mouse, Keychron K3 gaming keyboard with blue switches low profile, Logitech Brio 4K Webcam.

Hand held: ROG Ally with XG Mobile RTX 3080 with Keychron K3 low profile keyboard (Blue Switches) and Razer Hyperspeed V3 mouse and 4TB NVMe upgrade (WDBlack SN850X), with 100W 20000Mah power bank and portable monitor ROG XG17AHP 17'3 inch 240Hz with built in battery, and 518Wh Power station for Camping.

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Just now, TheNaitsyrk said:

I don't recommend it, I suggest to get the cooler on it. Also, you could use the oven method? I know it's not a fix, but it could help.

The oven method will only ever work if there are broken solder connections because of repeated heating and cooling, this is not the case here.

 

ONLY EVER use the oven method if:

1) You are 100% sure that your attempt at fixing didn't work.

2) You are 100% sure that the RMA process won't work (or you really don't want to commit to the RMA process)

3) You have a spare oven that you never ever ever plan to use ever again, baking electronic components releases some pretty nasty shit

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I was thinking of using the oven method but only if it I cant get it to work by any other means since I've never done it before I'd hate to fuck it up somehow even worse. I'll just take the time to clean it as best I can while I wait I suppose 

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Orange juice has sugar in it which is horrible for PCBs so it could be completely dead, or not. Just test it and see

ƆԀ S₱▓Ɇ▓cs: i7 6ʇɥפᴉƎ00K (4.4ghz), Asus DeLuxe X99A II, GT҉X҉1҉0҉8҉0 Zotac Amp ExTrꍟꎭe),Si6F4Gb D???????r PlatinUm, EVGA G2 Sǝʌǝᘉ5ᙣᙍᖇᓎᙎᗅᖶt, Phanteks Enthoo Primo, 3TB WD Black, 500gb 850 Evo, H100iGeeTeeX, Windows 10, K70 R̸̢̡̭͍͕̱̭̟̩̀̀̃́̃͒̈́̈́͑̑́̆͘͜ͅG̶̦̬͊́B̸͈̝̖͗̈́, G502, HyperX Cloud 2s, Asus MX34. פN∩SW∀S 960 EVO

Just keeping this here as a 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̌̅̒̾̈́̆͌̌̾̎̽̐̅̏́̈̔͛̀̋̃͊̒̓͗͒̑͒̃͂̌̄̇̑̇͛̆̾͛̒̇̍̒̓̀̈́̄̐͂̍͊͗̎̔͌͛̂̏̉̊̎͗͊͒̂̈̽̊́̔̊̃͑̈́̑̌̋̓̅̔́́͒̄̈́̈̂͐̈̅̈̓͌̓͊́̆͌̉͐̊̉͛̓̏̓̅̈́͂̉̒̇̉̆̀̍̄̇͆͛̏̉̑̃̓͂́͋̃̆̒͋̓͊̄́̓̕̕̕̚͘͘͘̚̕̚͘̕̕͜͜͝͝͝͠͝͝͝͝͠ͅS̷̢̨̧̢̡̨̢̨̢̨̧̧̨̧͚̱̪͇̱̮̪̮̦̝͖̜͙̘̪̘̟̱͇͎̻̪͚̩͍̠̹̮͚̦̝̤͖̙͔͚̙̺̩̥̻͈̺̦͕͈̹̳̖͓̜͚̜̭͉͇͖̟͔͕̹̯̬͍̱̫̮͓̙͇̗̙̼͚̪͇̦̗̜̼̠͈̩̠͉͉̘̱̯̪̟͕̘͖̝͇̼͕̳̻̜͖̜͇̣̠̹̬̗̝͓̖͚̺̫͛̉̅̐̕͘͜͜͜͜ͅͅͅ.̶̨̢̢̨̢̨̢̛̻͙̜̼̮̝̙̣̘̗̪̜̬̳̫̙̮̣̹̥̲̥͇͈̮̟͉̰̮̪̲̗̳̰̫̙͍̦̘̠̗̥̮̹̤̼̼̩͕͉͕͇͙̯̫̩̦̟̦̹͈͔̱̝͈̤͓̻̟̮̱͖̟̹̝͉̰͊̓̏̇͂̅̀̌͑̿͆̿̿͗̽̌̈́̉̂̀̒̊̿͆̃̄͑͆̃̇͒̀͐̍̅̃̍̈́̃̕͘͜͜͝͠͠z̴̢̢̡̧̢̢̧̢̨̡̨̛̛̛̛̛̛̛̛̲͚̠̜̮̠̜̞̤̺͈̘͍̻̫͖̣̥̗̙̳͓͙̫̫͖͍͇̬̲̳̭̘̮̤̬̖̼͎̬̯̼̮͔̭̠͎͓̼̖̟͈͓̦̩̦̳̙̮̗̮̩͙͓̮̰̜͎̺̞̝̪͎̯̜͈͇̪̙͎̩͖̭̟͎̲̩͔͓͈͌́̿͐̍̓͗͑̒̈́̎͂̋͂̀͂̑͂͊͆̍͛̄̃͌͗̌́̈̊́́̅͗̉͛͌͋̂̋̇̅̔̇͊͑͆̐̇͊͋̄̈́͆̍̋̏͑̓̈́̏̀͒̂̔̄̅̇̌̀̈́̿̽̋͐̾̆͆͆̈̌̿̈́̎͌̊̓̒͐̾̇̈́̍͛̅͌̽́̏͆̉́̉̓̅́͂͛̄̆͌̈́̇͐̒̿̾͌͊͗̀͑̃̊̓̈̈́̊͒̒̏̿́͑̄̑͋̀̽̀̔̀̎̄͑̌̔́̉̐͛̓̐̅́̒̎̈͆̀̍̾̀͂̄̈́̈́̈́̑̏̈́̐̽̐́̏̂̐̔̓̉̈́͂̕̚̕͘͘̚͘̚̕̚̚̚͘̕̕̕͜͜͝͠͠͝͝͝͝͠͝͝͝͠͝͝͝͝͝͝ͅͅͅī̸̧̧̧̡̨̨̢̨̛̛̘͓̼̰̰̮̗̰͚̙̥̣͍̦̺͈̣̻͇̱͔̰͈͓͖͈̻̲̫̪̲͈̜̲̬̖̻̰̦̰͙̤̘̝̦̟͈̭̱̮̠͍̖̲͉̫͔͖͔͈̻̖̝͎̖͕͔̣͈̤̗̱̀̅̃̈́͌̿̏͋̊̇̂̀̀̒̉̄̈́͋͌̽́̈́̓̑̈̀̍͗͜͜͠͠ͅp̴̢̢̧̨̡̡̨̢̨̢̢̢̨̡̛̛͕̩͕̟̫̝͈̖̟̣̲̖̭̙͇̟̗͖͎̹͇̘̰̗̝̹̤̺͉͎̙̝̟͙͚̦͚͖̜̫̰͖̼̤̥̤̹̖͉͚̺̥̮̮̫͖͍̼̰̭̤̲͔̩̯̣͖̻͇̞̳̬͉̣̖̥̣͓̤͔̪̙͎̰̬͚̣̭̞̬͎̼͉͓̮͙͕̗̦̞̥̮̘̻͎̭̼͚͎͈͇̥̗͖̫̮̤̦͙̭͎̝͖̣̰̱̩͎̩͎̘͇̟̠̱̬͈̗͍̦̘̱̰̤̱̘̫̫̮̥͕͉̥̜̯͖̖͍̮̼̲͓̤̮͈̤͓̭̝̟̲̲̳̟̠͉̙̻͕͙̞͔̖͈̱̞͓͔̬̮͎̙̭͎̩̟̖͚̆͐̅͆̿͐̄̓̀̇̂̊̃̂̄̊̀͐̍̌̅͌̆͊̆̓́̄́̃̆͗͊́̓̀͑͐̐̇͐̍́̓̈́̓̑̈̈́̽͂́̑͒͐͋̊͊̇̇̆̑̃̈́̎͛̎̓͊͛̐̾́̀͌̐̈́͛̃̂̈̿̽̇̋̍͒̍͗̈͘̚̚͘̚͘͘͜͜͜͜͜͜͠͠͝͝ͅͅͅ☻♥■∞{╚mYÄÜXτ╕○\╚Θº£¥ΘBM@Q05♠{{↨↨▬§¶‼↕◄►☼1♦  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1 minute ago, SourStrike said:

I was thinking of using the oven method but only if it I cant get it to work by any other means since I've never done it before I'd hate to fuck it up somehow even worse. I'll just take the time to clean it as best I can while I wait I suppose 

Yeah that's what I mean. Nothing to lose right?

Main PC:

CPU: Intel Core i9 13900KS SP 116 (124P-102E) (6.1Ghz P-Cores 4.8Ghz E-cores) MC SP 88

CPU Voltage: LLC8 1.525V (real voltage 1.425V + - Temps 85-90 P-Cores, 70-73 E-cores)

Cooled by: Supercool Direct Die 14th gen full nickel

Motherboard: Z790 ASUS Maximus Apex Encore

RAM: GSkill TridentZ 2x24GB DDR5 8600Mhz CL38 (OC from 8000Mhz CL40)

GPU: RTX MSI 4090 Suprim X with EKWB waterblock

Case: My own case fabricated out of aluminium and wood

Storage: 4x 2TB Sarbent Rocket Plus Gen 4.0 NVMe, 1x External 2TB Seagate Barracuda (Backup)

WiFi: BE202 WiFi 7 Tri-Band card module

PSU: Corsair AX1600i with custom black and red cables with 2x Corsair 5V+ Load Balancer

Display: Samsung Oddysey G9 240Hz Ver. 5120x1440 with G-Sync and Freesync Premium Pro 1008 Firmware Ver, and 1x Electriq USB C 1080p 15'8 inch IPS portable display for temperature and stats, MSI 23'8 144Hz G-Sync

Fan Controllers:  6x AquaComputer Octo with 5 temperature sensors

Cooling: Three Custom Loops:

1st Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for GPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, red coolant

2nd Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for CPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, purple coolant

3rd Loop: 1x 240mm PE CoolStream radiator with 1x EKWB Revo D5 pump (RAM ONLY)

Total: 5x pumps and 13x radiators 50x 3000RPM Noctua Industrial fans

Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow V3 RGB - Green switches

Sound: Logitech Z680 5.1 THX Certified 505W Speakers

Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate Wireless with charging dock

Piano: Yamaha P155

Phone: Oppo Find X5 Pro

Camera: Logitech Brio Pro 4K

VR: Oculus Rift S

External SSD: 256GB Overclocking OS

LaptopMSI Titan GT77HX V13RTX 4090 175W, i9 13980HX OC: P-Cores 5.8Ghz 3 cores and 5.2Ghz 5 cores and E-Cores 4.3Ghz, 192GB of RAM @5600Mhz @3600 (chipset limit),

12TB (3x4TB) of NVMe, 17'3 inch 4K 144Hz MiniLED screen, 4x 17'3 ASUS portable USB-C Monitors 240Hz, Creative Sound Blaster G6 Sound Card, Portable 16TB NVMe in TB4 enclosures (8x2TB), Razer Basilisk Ultimate Wireless with charging dock gaming mouse, Keychron K3 gaming keyboard with blue switches low profile, Logitech Brio 4K Webcam.

Hand held: ROG Ally with XG Mobile RTX 3080 with Keychron K3 low profile keyboard (Blue Switches) and Razer Hyperspeed V3 mouse and 4TB NVMe upgrade (WDBlack SN850X), with 100W 20000Mah power bank and portable monitor ROG XG17AHP 17'3 inch 240Hz with built in battery, and 518Wh Power station for Camping.

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3 minutes ago, SourStrike said:

I was thinking of using the oven method but only if it I cant get it to work by any other means since I've never done it before I'd hate to fuck it up somehow even worse. I'll just take the time to clean it as best I can while I wait I suppose 

 

8 minutes ago, TheNaitsyrk said:

I don't recommend it, I suggest to get the cooler on it. Also, you could use the oven method? I know it's not a fix, but it could help.

 

NO. Please NO. Don't use the oven method ever. It does not work, it will just destroy the GPU to the point where it will (after it's artificially extended life) be permanently dead. Please, don't try this shit unless you have a good way to clean the PCB and BGA rework station. Go ahead and do this, waste your parts, but don't, please, EVER reccomend this to someone as a solution. 

 

 

 

Ryzen 7 2700X  ASUS X470 PRO  16GB 2400Mhz Crucial Ballistix SAPPHIRE RX 580  970 EVO  Dark Rock PRO 4  Dark Base PRO 900

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2 minutes ago, Nas said:

 

 

NO. Please NO. Don't use the oven method ever. It does not work, it will just destroy the GPU to the point where it will (after it's artificially extended life) be permanently dead. Please, don't try this shit unless you have a good way to clean the PCB and BGA rework station. Go ahead and do this, waste your parts, but don't, please, EVER reccomend this to someone as a solution. 

 

 

 

We all seen this video. If he can't fix it otherwise, he has NOTHING to lose.

Hence why I suggested to first try to clean it properly, dry it out, see if it works. Perhaps try other methods and then the oven thing as an absolutely last resort.

Main PC:

CPU: Intel Core i9 13900KS SP 116 (124P-102E) (6.1Ghz P-Cores 4.8Ghz E-cores) MC SP 88

CPU Voltage: LLC8 1.525V (real voltage 1.425V + - Temps 85-90 P-Cores, 70-73 E-cores)

Cooled by: Supercool Direct Die 14th gen full nickel

Motherboard: Z790 ASUS Maximus Apex Encore

RAM: GSkill TridentZ 2x24GB DDR5 8600Mhz CL38 (OC from 8000Mhz CL40)

GPU: RTX MSI 4090 Suprim X with EKWB waterblock

Case: My own case fabricated out of aluminium and wood

Storage: 4x 2TB Sarbent Rocket Plus Gen 4.0 NVMe, 1x External 2TB Seagate Barracuda (Backup)

WiFi: BE202 WiFi 7 Tri-Band card module

PSU: Corsair AX1600i with custom black and red cables with 2x Corsair 5V+ Load Balancer

Display: Samsung Oddysey G9 240Hz Ver. 5120x1440 with G-Sync and Freesync Premium Pro 1008 Firmware Ver, and 1x Electriq USB C 1080p 15'8 inch IPS portable display for temperature and stats, MSI 23'8 144Hz G-Sync

Fan Controllers:  6x AquaComputer Octo with 5 temperature sensors

Cooling: Three Custom Loops:

1st Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for GPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, red coolant

2nd Loop: 5x 480mm XE CoolStream radiators with 1x Revo D5 RGB pump and 1x Rajintek Antila D5 Evo RGB pump for CPU only cooling with 2x Koolance QDC3, purple coolant

3rd Loop: 1x 240mm PE CoolStream radiator with 1x EKWB Revo D5 pump (RAM ONLY)

Total: 5x pumps and 13x radiators 50x 3000RPM Noctua Industrial fans

Keyboard: Razer BlackWidow V3 RGB - Green switches

Sound: Logitech Z680 5.1 THX Certified 505W Speakers

Mouse: Razer Basilisk Ultimate Wireless with charging dock

Piano: Yamaha P155

Phone: Oppo Find X5 Pro

Camera: Logitech Brio Pro 4K

VR: Oculus Rift S

External SSD: 256GB Overclocking OS

LaptopMSI Titan GT77HX V13RTX 4090 175W, i9 13980HX OC: P-Cores 5.8Ghz 3 cores and 5.2Ghz 5 cores and E-Cores 4.3Ghz, 192GB of RAM @5600Mhz @3600 (chipset limit),

12TB (3x4TB) of NVMe, 17'3 inch 4K 144Hz MiniLED screen, 4x 17'3 ASUS portable USB-C Monitors 240Hz, Creative Sound Blaster G6 Sound Card, Portable 16TB NVMe in TB4 enclosures (8x2TB), Razer Basilisk Ultimate Wireless with charging dock gaming mouse, Keychron K3 gaming keyboard with blue switches low profile, Logitech Brio 4K Webcam.

Hand held: ROG Ally with XG Mobile RTX 3080 with Keychron K3 low profile keyboard (Blue Switches) and Razer Hyperspeed V3 mouse and 4TB NVMe upgrade (WDBlack SN850X), with 100W 20000Mah power bank and portable monitor ROG XG17AHP 17'3 inch 240Hz with built in battery, and 518Wh Power station for Camping.

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The oven method is theoretically for when solder joints have cracked and the chip is no longer connected to the board.

 

That doesn't clean orange juice off a board.

 

Make sure you thoroughly clean the board. What's probably happening is some of that orange juice residue is shorting components together and the board won't boot up. If the board doesn't work after a thorough cleaning there's probably corrosion on components or the traces of the board.

 

Either way, the oven method wouldn't even apply.

Desktop: [Processor: Intel Skylake i5 6600K (stock for now)][HSF: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO]
[PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750 B2][Case: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 Silver]
[Motherboard: AsRock Z170 Extreme4][RAM: 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-2666]
[Video: eVGA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 03G-P4-6160-KR]
[Hard Drives: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB]
Notebook: [HP Envy x360 15z][Ryzen 7 2700U w/ Radeon RX Vega 10][8GB RAM][256GB m.2 nVME SSD]

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1 minute ago, GilmourD said:

The oven method is theoretically for when solder joints have cracked and the chip is no longer connected to the board.

 

That doesn't clean orange juice off a board.

 

Make sure you thoroughly clean the board. What's probably happening is some of that orange juice residue is shorting components together and the board won't boot up. If the board doesn't work after a thorough cleaning there's probably corrosion on components or the traces of the board.

 

Either way, the oven method wouldn't even apply.

I agree, but the oven method doesn't even melt the solder balls.

Ryzen 7 2700X  ASUS X470 PRO  16GB 2400Mhz Crucial Ballistix SAPPHIRE RX 580  970 EVO  Dark Rock PRO 4  Dark Base PRO 900

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1 minute ago, Nas said:

I agree, but the oven method doesn't even melt the solder balls.

That is also true. As somebody who dabbles in guitar and amplifier electronics, you need to get an iron pretty hot to melt regular lead solder. This RoHS solder everybody uses these days  SUCKS for reheating as you need to get it significantly hotter. A pizzeria-grade pizza oven might do the work but it would also burn the board to a crisp as it applies heat to the entire board rather than just the solder joints.

Desktop: [Processor: Intel Skylake i5 6600K (stock for now)][HSF: CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO]
[PSU: EVGA SuperNova 750 B2][Case: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 Silver]
[Motherboard: AsRock Z170 Extreme4][RAM: 2x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-2666]
[Video: eVGA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 03G-P4-6160-KR]
[Hard Drives: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB]
Notebook: [HP Envy x360 15z][Ryzen 7 2700U w/ Radeon RX Vega 10][8GB RAM][256GB m.2 nVME SSD]

Gaming:[SteamID: STEAM_0:0:1792244 - "[TC]CreepingDeath"]

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alright gotcha don't use oven method putting it on a post-it note 

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