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8 minutes ago, danieldn10002 said:

so what build do you recommend that dosent go over the prive of 1700$? 

 

this is only 100 dollars more expensive though it offers much higher raw performance.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($309.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME B250M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($84.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($50.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($50.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($121.05 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($49.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card  ($614.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($62.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($77.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1422.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-02 08:14 EST-0500

Hey so ive searched for parts  (israely here) and its not been easy and i found this shop that sells parts for decent price and i just wanted to ask if this build is ok or should i change something (my first build)

Case: Thermaltake model Versa U21

Power supply: CoolerMaster 500W model B500   
80+ | Active PFC.
CPU: intel® Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Kaby Lake
Quad Core | 6MB Cache
CPU cooler: Arctic Cooling model Alpine 11 Rev.2
Mother board:Gigabyte model B250-DS3H chipset B250 in it a 5.1 sound board and SATA 6Gb/s | M.2 | USB3.1
RAM: Kingston 16GB DDR4 2133MHz
SSD: SSD Kingston UV400 120GB
Hard disk: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 64MB
GPU: Gigabyte Nvidia GeForce GTX1070 WF
8GB GDDR5
ports HDMI  / DVI / DP x3

And the price is: 1437.01 US Dollar

(sorry for the bad english had to translate it)

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you won't need that cooler, and I would recommend a better psu. Though the rest looks fine.

 

EDIT: that CPU cooler will probably perform the same as intel's stock heatsink, Save the money and put it towards a better PSU, but 500W will suffice, just higher quality

GUITAR BUILD LOG FROM SCRATCH OUT OF APPLEWOOD

 

- Ryzen Build -

R5 3600 | MSI X470 Gaming Plus MAX | 16GB CL16 3200MHz Corsair LPX | Dark Rock 4

MSI 2060 Super Gaming X

1TB Intel 660p | 250GB Kingston A2000 | 1TB Seagate Barracuda | 2TB WD Blue

be quiet! Silent Base 601 | be quiet! Straight Power 550W CM

2x Dell UP2516D

 

- First System (Retired) -

Intel Xeon 1231v3 | 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport Dual Channel | Gigabyte H97 D3H | Gigabyte GTX 970 Gaming G1 | 525 GB Crucial MX 300 | 1 TB + 2 TB Seagate HDD
be quiet! 500W Straight Power E10 CM | be quiet! Silent Base 800 with stock fans | be quiet! Dark Rock Advanced C1 | 2x Dell UP2516D

Reviews: be quiet! Silent Base 800 | MSI GTX 950 OC

 

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The build you got there is very good, however I would strongly advise you going with the SanDisk G26 or the AMD R3, Kingston U series SSDs are a pile of junk.

 

You can use the stock cooler, aftermarket ones are really only needed on overclocking scenarios.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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CPU will bottleneck the 1070, dont get a CPU cooler, cut the RAM to 8GB and get a better PSU and if you can, step up the CPU to the I5 7600

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally) watch YT and write essays...  nothing, it just sits there collecting dust...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Princess Cadence said:

The build you got there is very good, however I would strongly advise you going with the SanDisk G26 or the AMD R3, Kingston U series SSDs are a pile of junk.

no they arent, the UV400 is a good SSD. its the V ones that are trash

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally) watch YT and write essays...  nothing, it just sits there collecting dust...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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3 minutes ago, danieldn10002 said:

so just change the SSD? 

if thats it ill do that 100%

The PSU is not the best ever but should hold up the system alright, like previously stated you won't need a high end CPU cooler with the 7500, the stock cooler that comes with it should be sufficient, and yes change the SSD, even the RAM I would rather corsair or crucial value rams, I just really lost my entire respect for Kingston because of their U and V series SSDs they start off like really good but give it a few months and they will be as bad as HDDs, one very expensive HDD.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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3 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

CPU will bottleneck the 1070, dont get a CPU cooler, cut the RAM to 8GB and get a better PSU and if you can, step up the CPU to the I5 7600

so what if i get the 7600 i wount need the cpu cooler? 

and what about he PSU witch one should i get?

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3 minutes ago, danieldn10002 said:

 

so what if i get the 7600 i wount need the cpu cooler? 

and what about he PSU witch one should i get?

you wont need a CPU cooler seeing as the 7600 comes with one unless you buy one speciically without one. for a decent PSU anything by SeaSonic, Delta or Superflower, basically anything from those or anything thats in this thread:

 

I spent $2500 on building my PC and all i do with it is play no games atm & watch anime at 1080p(finally) watch YT and write essays...  nothing, it just sits there collecting dust...

Builds:

The Toaster Project! Northern Bee!

 

The original LAN PC build log! (Old, dead and replaced by The Toaster Project & 5.0)

Spoiler

"Here is some advice that might have gotten lost somewhere along the way in your life. 

 

#1. Treat others as you would like to be treated.

#2. It's best to keep your mouth shut; and appear to be stupid, rather than open it and remove all doubt.

#3. There is nothing "wrong" with being wrong. Learning from a mistake can be more valuable than not making one in the first place.

 

Follow these simple rules in life, and I promise you, things magically get easier. " - MageTank 31-10-2016

 

 

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25 minutes ago, Princess Cadence said:

The build you got there is very good, however I would strongly advise you going with the SanDisk G26 or the AMD R3, Kingston U series SSDs are a pile of junk.

 

You can use the stock cooler, aftermarket ones are really only needed on overclocking scenarios.

so what about this build? 

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/jnCYXH

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9 minutes ago, danieldn10002 said:

so what about this build? 

http://pcpartpicker.com/list/jnCYXH

Definitely no, I honestly believe that overclocking the i5 is one of the biggest mistakes Youtuber Builders insists on making people commit. Because if you get a b250 or even a h110m (though then you might need to BIOS update what can make things more complicated) and don't buy an aftermarket cooler (Use the stock cooler) you will save enough money to simply buy the i7 7700 which is superior to either 6600k 7600k overclocked while also giving you greater future-proof thanks to the hyper-threading.

 

More and more games are taking advantage of multi-threading  as well enforcing the belief you will be much better off with the locked i7 instead of the unlocked i5, see the video below for better comparison where the 6700 already beats the 6600k fully OC'ed:

 

Overclocking should be something towards the i7's only, since we no longer live in the reality anything can OC and you should because it's free, nowadays the costs for overclocking makes it only viable to the high end i7's.

 

With all that said the 7700 with its higher clock frequency will be even more superior, and a best deal for your money, pair with the b250 and you're certain not to have any silicon lottery headaches ever with OC'ing as well.

 

Having made that change the rest of the build is a perfect matching.

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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Just now, Princess Cadence said:

Definitely no, I honestly believe that overclocking the i5 is one of the biggest mistakes Youtuber Builders insists on making people commit. Because if you get a b250 or even a h110m (though then you might need to BIOS update what can make things more complicated) and don't buy an aftermarket cooler (Use the stock cooler) you will save enough money to simply buy the i7 7700 which is superior to either 6600k 7600k overclocked while also giving you greater future-proof thanks to the hyper-threading.

 

More and more games are taking advantage of multi-threading  as well enforcing the belief you will be much better of with the locked i7 instead of the unlocked i5, see the video below for better comparison where the 6700 already beats the 6600k fully OC'ed:

 

Overclocking should be something towards the i7's only, since we no longer live in the reality anything can OC and you should it because it's free, nowadays the costs for overclocking makes it only viable to the high end i7's.

 

With all that said the 7700 with its higher clock frequency will be even more superior, and a best deal for your money, pair with the b250 and you're certain not to have any silicon lottery headaches ever with OC'ing as well.

 

Having made that change the rest of the build is a perfect matching.

so what build do you recommend that dosent go over the prive of 1700$? 

 

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8 minutes ago, danieldn10002 said:

so what build do you recommend that dosent go over the prive of 1700$? 

 

this is only 100 dollars more expensive though it offers much higher raw performance.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i7-7700 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor  ($309.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: Asus PRIME B250M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($84.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($50.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory  ($50.98 @ Newegg)
Storage: Sandisk SSD PLUS 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($121.05 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($49.33 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card  ($614.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($62.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($77.88 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1422.67
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-02 08:14 EST-0500

Personal Desktop":

CPU: Intel Core i7 10700K @5ghz |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock Pro 4 |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Z490UD ATX|~| RAM: 16gb DDR4 3333mhzCL16 G.Skill Trident Z |~| GPU: RX 6900XT Sapphire Nitro+ |~| PSU: Corsair TX650M 80Plus Gold |~| Boot:  SSD WD Green M.2 2280 240GB |~| Storage: 1x3TB HDD 7200rpm Seagate Barracuda + SanDisk Ultra 3D 1TB |~| Case: Fractal Design Meshify C Mini |~| Display: Toshiba UL7A 4K/60hz |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro.

Luna, the temporary Desktop:

CPU: AMD R9 7950XT  |~| Cooling: bq! Dark Rock 4 Pro |~| MOBO: Gigabyte Aorus Master |~| RAM: 32G Kingston HyperX |~| GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900XTX (Reference) |~| PSU: Corsair HX1000 80+ Platinum |~| Windows Boot Drive: 2x 512GB (1TB total) Plextor SATA SSD (RAID0 volume) |~| Linux Boot Drive: 500GB Kingston A2000 |~| Storage: 4TB WD Black HDD |~| Case: Cooler Master Silencio S600 |~| Display 1 (leftmost): Eizo (unknown model) 1920x1080 IPS @ 60Hz|~| Display 2 (center): BenQ ZOWIE XL2540 1920x1080 TN @ 240Hz |~| Display 3 (rightmost): Wacom Cintiq Pro 24 3840x2160 IPS @ 60Hz 10-bit |~| OS: Windows 10 Pro (games / art) + Linux (distro: NixOS; programming and daily driver)
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