Jump to content

Battle of the cheapass TP-Link WiFi Routers

Noyu
Go to solution Solved by Noyu,

Nevermind. I realized it doesn't make sense to get the higher speed WiFi if my line my WAN is still limited to 100Mbps, and my ISP limited to 50Mbps. I don't use this network to transfer files anyways.

 

I'm getting the C20.

TP-Link AC750 Wireless Dual Band Router Archer C20

 

So first off, I'll be coming from a TP-Link 300Mbps Wireless N Gigabit Router TL-WR1043ND.

 

I have tons of devices at home (mostly iPhones haha).

But what's urging me to change is that I am experiencing HEAVY interference when using the BT on my built-in WiFi.

My board has a built-in Intel® Dual Band Wireless-AC 8260 which also has BT included.

As soon as I connect anything using Bluetooth, the WiFi signal would turn sour and will be completely unusable.

Either that or the BT connection will be shit.

 

Soo now I'd like to try getting into the AC 5GHz bandwagon to avoid the BT interference.

 

CONS (sort of):

  •  The C20 only has 100Mbps WAN/LAN ports. Although I don't use the LAN ports, my router has gigabit WAN.

I'm not sure if this is a concern as I only have a 50/5 Mbps cable connection. I still have at least 45 Mbps to spare if I understand this correctly.

I have an ARRIS Touchstone® DG860 Data Gateway acting as my modem (using Bridged mode)

  • The C20 is only capable of 433 Mbps on the 5GHz spectrum while my card can accommodate up to 867 Mbps (afaik)

I think this is not a concern entirely. I just won't get full speeds. I don't use the router for file transfers so I don't think it would matter?

 

Thoughts?

 

My current choices are the following:

  1. Archer C20 - no gigabit, no 867Mbps, - 40$
  2. Archer C59 - no gigabit, yes 867Mbps - 60$
  3. Archer C2 - yes gigabit, no 867Mbps - 60$ (is basically a gigabit Archer C2)
  4. Archer C5 - yes gigabit, yes 867Mbps - 80$ (I will have to wait a few months before I can get this)

 

Other info:

- My plan is to connect ONLY ME to the 5GHz band, and everyone else on the 2.4GHz. So I'm not concerned with the specs of the other devices.

- I'm limiting myself to TP-Link products because they are cheap, simple, and not a single one has failed me YET. My current router is already almost 3 y/o

- I will have 40$ when I sell my current router. I have a spare 20$ I can use to get the better ones, I'm just deciding if I really "need them"

- Internet in the Philippines is pretty expensive, so we're kinda stuck to 50/5 Mbps for about a year or 2.

Karamo

Spoiler

CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 5 3600 | CPU Cooler: Wraith Stealth | GPU: Gigabgyte AORUS GeForce RTX 2070 Super | Motherboard: MSI B450M Mortar Max | RAM: G.Skill FlareX 2x8GB 3200MHz CL16 | SSD: ADATA XPG SX6000 Pro M.2 256GB | HDD: 1TB 2.5" Western Digital Blue (WD10SPZX) | Case: NZXT H510 | OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit |

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Nevermind. I realized it doesn't make sense to get the higher speed WiFi if my line my WAN is still limited to 100Mbps, and my ISP limited to 50Mbps. I don't use this network to transfer files anyways.

 

I'm getting the C20.

Karamo

Spoiler

CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 5 3600 | CPU Cooler: Wraith Stealth | GPU: Gigabgyte AORUS GeForce RTX 2070 Super | Motherboard: MSI B450M Mortar Max | RAM: G.Skill FlareX 2x8GB 3200MHz CL16 | SSD: ADATA XPG SX6000 Pro M.2 256GB | HDD: 1TB 2.5" Western Digital Blue (WD10SPZX) | Case: NZXT H510 | OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit |

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

WiFi technical specifications and maximum theoretical speeds never see the light of day in usage on cheaper equipment.  Even on high end stuff they rarely come close to maximums, Just stick with a router that gives the better WiFi coverage :)

Please quote or tag me if you need a reply

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

I use the Archer C9 for fairly heavy network usage. It was easy to set up and has been extremely reliable for me. If the lower level entries are anything like it then I can recommend them. I was having the same 2.4GHz connectivity issues with my Intel AC 7260 and running 5GHz has resolved them. I run almost all of my devices on 5GHz or wired now.

PC:

Monolith(Laptop): CPU: i7 5700HQ GPU: GTX 980M 8GB RAM: 2x8GB 1600MHz Storage: 2x128GB Samsung 850 EVO(Raid 0) + 1TB HGST 7200RPM Model: Gigabyte P35XV4 Mouse: Razer Orochi Headset: Turtle Beach Stealth 450

 

IoT:

Router: Netgear D7000 Nighthawk

NAS: Synology DS218j, 2x 4TB Seagate Ironwolf

Media Accelerator: Nvidia Shield via Plex

Phone: Sony Xperia X Compact

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, CtrlAltELITE said:

I was having the same 2.4GHz connectivity issues with my Intel AC 7260 and running 5GHz has resolved them.

Thanks for confirming. I wasn't entirely sure if going 5GHz would solve my problem.

 

I'm gonna buy the router this weekend and I'll update here.

 

(I might still get the C2 or the C59 if the C20 isn't available)

Karamo

Spoiler

CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 5 3600 | CPU Cooler: Wraith Stealth | GPU: Gigabgyte AORUS GeForce RTX 2070 Super | Motherboard: MSI B450M Mortar Max | RAM: G.Skill FlareX 2x8GB 3200MHz CL16 | SSD: ADATA XPG SX6000 Pro M.2 256GB | HDD: 1TB 2.5" Western Digital Blue (WD10SPZX) | Case: NZXT H510 | OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit |

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, CtrlAltELITE said:

I use the Archer C9 for fairly heavy network usage. It was easy to set up and has been extremely reliable for me. If the lower level entries are anything like it then I can recommend them. I was having the same 2.4GHz connectivity issues with my Intel AC 7260 and running 5GHz has resolved them. I run almost all of my devices on 5GHz or wired now.

oh nononononono my Bluetooth is still experiencing interference with the 5GHz line. HALP huhu

Karamo

Spoiler

CPU: AMD Ryzen™ 5 3600 | CPU Cooler: Wraith Stealth | GPU: Gigabgyte AORUS GeForce RTX 2070 Super | Motherboard: MSI B450M Mortar Max | RAM: G.Skill FlareX 2x8GB 3200MHz CL16 | SSD: ADATA XPG SX6000 Pro M.2 256GB | HDD: 1TB 2.5" Western Digital Blue (WD10SPZX) | Case: NZXT H510 | OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit |

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×