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About kitnoman

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  1. Nvidia already support Freesync so you don't have to worry about that. As for your budget, a year and a half ago, I would tell you that it is more than enough to get you the best hardware. I'm not familiar with the gpu and cpu recommended requirements for your applications, so you might need another person to help you with that or read more about the application that you are going to use. If in any case you need more cpu cores, don't hesitate to go for amd ryzen 7 3000 gen or i7 10th gen to get more cores cheaper. As for your gpu.... I don't know what to say hahahaha. I think you a
  2. Most of the time, it all comes down to budget and what will you use it for. For example when I built my pc, since I would only be using it for gaming and the most demanding task I would probably need it for is excel(with hundred thousands of rows lol), I was shopping for the most affordable ryzen 5 / intel I5 and mobo available. If you are doing more than gaming, then feel free to check ryzen 7/ I7. While on GPU, I normally choose one base on may current monitor resolution. If I have 1080p monitor at whatever hz, I feel like the highest that I "should" get are the "70" variants(rtx
  3. So I'll just ask away, is it ok to have a loop in this order, from reservoir --> goes to GPU --> then in to the 1st radiator --> goes in to processor --> then to a 2nd radiator --> back to the reservoir? Is this advisable? thanks!
  4. I tried with a usb extender, front io and direct from the back of mobo. As for the signal issue, just tried and check for interference, it shouldn't be it. It should also be the batteries as it's built in and that thing is this most of the time happens when I'm playing a game. I'm currently thinking of possible 3 possible issue. 1st is the dongle itself has an issue as when I'm directly connected via usb, the mouse works fine. 2nd usb interference/driver issue, because it happened before with other devices, just more rare than now. 3rd, would be the bios or mobo, I remember 2 weeks ago we had
  5. I have a corsair harpoon rgb wireless mouse. I have tried different usb ports and turn off everything that would allow the usb power to torn off. I was just working fine a week ago. while connect via cord, everything seems fine, but when I use wireless, the usb randomly disconnects and then reconnect after 1-3secs. Anyone can tell me if there's a fix for this? thank you.
  6. I don't know if this is a software issue but it keeps on happening on my mouse. I'm currently using a wireless corsair harpoon but it happen as well with my previous mice. It does not happen often but when it does it happens on gaming so it is frustrating. Basically the mouse just stop working for a few sec, stuck on moving to a direction or delayed/latency. This happens either wire or wireless. The strangest thing, there were times you would here the sound of when a USB is disconnected and reconnect(but this also happens to other devices too, like my controllers). So I'm not sure if it a driv
  7. Thank you for the info. By the way, is there a method or app that I can use to clone without windows trying to read the drive? the pc becomes unusable a few mins after I connect drive.
  8. I have multiple ssd, hhd drives. I pretty much don't sell my old drives and just add it in to my new build every time. Can anyone help me what might cause this issue? So basically every time it is connected (my oldest drive, a wd blue hhd), the whole pc is slow or freezing but the cpu usage is not 100%. Once I remove the drive, everything works back fine. I have a lot of work files and family pics that does not have a copy on that drive that hopefully I can recover.
  9. Thank you, will look into that and hope amazon shows that details as well. Every bit I save would actually go to my gpu(once it is on stock that is) I mean we have a few stocks here, but because of import tax, regular price here is higher or equal to scalping price.
  10. So I live in the Philippines and it does not matter if I use an avr or directly plug my psu to the wall, we're using 220v here. While my parents lives in the US and uses 110v. My question is, if I buy a psu and have my parents bring it to me once they visit(because it would save me a $100 or more), do I plug it into a 220v or 110v? Thanks!
  11. I used to be conflicted as well between 6000 series and 3000 series. if I have more time, I'll probably wait for amd's 7000 series, but I need a new gpu in the next few months and I've decided to get either 3080 or 3070. The safest bet to get right now is the 3000 series as most current games favor their features or at least optimized. For older games that does not support dlss and ray tracing, amd are competitive, but with the current games that support dlss and ray tracing, they lose big time. However in the future, games would be built around their system. They actually made the best gpu m
  12. Currently, it seems that the best bang for your buck card is the 3080. If you are upgrading every time there's a new card, get 3080. However, if you are going to keep your card for a long time and would like to gamble, you might want to consider the 6000 series. If you are wondering what I mean about gambling(and this is only a theory), we all know that the current consoles are made from amd gpus and consoles normally last more than 5yrs. So, with this logic, this means that for the coming years, most games would be built and designed for these consoles, ergo, designed and built for amd gpus,
  13. I bought 2 separate single ram sticks and it works just fine on my pc. I believe that it's the mobo that's dual channel. You just have to make sure that the speed, timings and volts are the same.
  14. I'm currently on 1080p 165hz monitor but will change to 1440p 144hz or 165hz once I get a new gpu. I do play fps games moderately and a lot of AAA titles on backlog(why do we buy great games and never play them). I don't want to stay with 1080p as it would be meaningless to go with 6800 xt/3080 or 4k, as I want more than 100 fps if possible and it is expensive, so will go with the 1440p.