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My first water loop - design questions

Hi guys,

I've finally decided to bite the bullet and take a risk at doing a water cooled loop myself. Just wanted to get some simple design advice on what I should choose and what things I need to look out for as I've never done anything like this before.

I'll be cooling:

I7 4790K

980ti g1

Using a in win 909 case.

Motherboard is a maximus vii formula but I won't be water cooling that.

I was thinking of going a ek 240 complete kit for the bottom of the case and a ek 360 complete kit at the back of the case. Definitely want to use quick disconnect fittings so I can easily upgrade once pascal hits. Also want to use hard acrylic as it looks oh so much nicer. Much more work but I think it's worth it.

I mainly wanted to ask what else would I need besides the two mentioned kits? Obviously I need a gpu block but what else would I need? I'm going to be ordering everything from pccasegear so I want to make sure I order everything I need nothing worse then wanting to start a job but having to wait for forgotten components.

Hard acrylic is it really difficult to shape properly? I'm use to bending copper pipes as I'm a refrigeration mechanic is it a similar principle? Does hard acrylic kink really easily?

Any does and do nots I should know about?

Thanks for your assistance!

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Look into PETG tubing and I'm sure it's a tad bit different from bending copper.

 

Look up Jayz2cents on youtube. He does quite a bit of hardline tubbing videos.

 

Post a link of what you're looking at so we can see it all. (I'm lazy)

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You could use a quick connect kit, but I think you'd have better aesthetics going for a 360mm rad with flexible tubing (you can use fittings to create a drainage port to quickly drain your system). If you're not OCing too much, then the 360mm radiator should be more than enough for the system. 

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Look into PETG tubing and I'm sure it's a tad bit different from bending copper.

 

Look up Jayz2cents on youtube. He does quite a bit of hardline tubbing videos.

 

Post a link of what you're looking at so we can see it all. (I'm lazy)

 

I would not recommend PETG for your first water loop. It's a whole lot harder to design and build, is more prone (sometimes?) to leaks, and is much harder to upgrade components. 

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I would not recommend PETG for your first water loop. It's a whole lot harder to design and build, is more prone (sometimes?) to leaks, and is much harder to upgrade components. 

I would agree. I mean if you know how to plumb it's not much different you're just factoring in bends with tubing and it's a slight bit harder.

 

To answer your question OP, soft tubing isn't hard to do. Just plan your loop and you'll be okay

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I would not recommend PETG for your first water loop. It's a whole lot harder to design and build, is more prone (sometimes?) to leaks, and is much harder to upgrade components. 

 

I would agree. I mean if you know how to plumb it's not much different you're just factoring in bends with tubing and it's a slight bit harder.

 

To answer your question OP, soft tubing isn't hard to do. Just plan your loop and you'll be okay

PETG tubing is much harder to work with since you need to factor in bends. If you have watched a whack load of watercooling videos from the likes of Singularity Computers, you should have a clear approach on how to do them. Chances of leaking are not as high if you do it right. I am pretty ballsy and I am planning on doing nickel-plated copper piping as 1) I think it looks utterly badass and 2) my rig will be the most original as it gets. I know there is a reputable plating shop pretty close to me that does nickel plating that will sure do it. 

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Speaking as someone who only just recently got into custom water cooling (Done two loops in the last year). Do yourself a favor and make room for a proper way to fill AND drain your loop. You'll thank yourself later!

Make sure you have ample room for all of your components. Everything from you radiators to pump and reservoir. AND FITTINGS :)

Those are things that I have definitely learned.

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Thanks for the advice!

Qdc I'm told can't be used on hard acrylic is that true? I wanted to use them so I don't constantly have to drain the loop if I want to remove a component. Especially my gpu I've been having issues with 9 series cards lately where the hdmi port goes loose so giving me a green screen. Wiggling the cable sometimes solved it otherwise I have to physically pull the card out of the pciee slot.

Tossing up whether it's worth doing one or 2 rads. I think one 360 at the back with 2 140 fans at the front.bottom for intake should suffice?

What fans would you guys recommend? I was thinking of the corsair sp120 high performance static pressure aesthetically to me they look the nicest

Thanks!

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-snip-

 

Why would you want 2 kits? You'll have leftover components. Easier to make you own kit which isn't very hard, if you need help then just ask.

 

I've watercooled 2 systems with soft tubing, gave acrylic a go and gave up because of difficult bends so back to soft tubing for me.

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I wonder if you're not putting to much stress on the PETG/acrylic tubing while disconnecting the quick disconnect fittings.

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For the money you're going to spend to get two kits, you might as well just build a custom loop, especially if you're looking at the X240 and X360. Plus, you'll end up with two pumps and two CPU blocks. 

 

Even something like this would be great. http://www.performance-pcs.com/complete-kits/extreme-rigs-ultimate-water-cooling-kit.html

 

You just have to add a second radiator and whichever GPU block you want. 

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I am currently getting parts together for my first custom water loop and I also have the In Win 909 case. Don't buy kits if you plan to learn how to build your loop. I plan to use PETG Bitspower 12mm OD clear tubing for aesthetic reasons. All you need is a heat gun, rubber bending tube and a reamer to smooth the cut edges. There are hard line bending tools out there just research which one you want to try. 360 rad should be enough cooling if you plan to go with only one gpu, but if you plan to go SLI  you might consider another 240 or 280, which would fit in the In Win 909 case. I decided to go with Bitspower hardline fittings x2 per component. Some other suggested parts below:

 

1. reservior

2. D5 pump

3. gpu waterblock

4. cpu waterblock

5. antimicrobial solution to keep loop clean or silver

 

Tip: preflush your rads before filling your loop to remove contaminants. I did this buy purchasing a cheap $25 pump and some flex tubing and two fittings to flush the rad with a bucket filled with distilled water and a filter to capture any debris.

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Thanks for the advice! I plan on using clear tubing as well looks much nicer. Coolant I wanted to use I can't remember where it was but I remember seeing a video from PAX where someone had silver coolant which had a swirling effect in it looked like molten metal looked so cool if I can find the vid ill link it.  Tubing and fitting size wise does it really matter which size you use? One thing that put me off doing it myself theres so much to choose from its a bit intimidating knowing what pairs with what well which is why i wanted to use the kits.

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Thanks for the advice! I plan on using clear tubing as well looks much nicer. Coolant I wanted to use I can't remember where it was but I remember seeing a video from PAX where someone had silver coolant which had a swirling effect in it looked like molten metal looked so cool if I can find the vid ill link it.  Tubing and fitting size wise does it really matter which size you use? One thing that put me off doing it myself theres so much to choose from its a bit intimidating knowing what pairs with what well which is why i wanted to use the kits.

 

Yeah that coolant isn't recommended for personal use. Tubing size? Not really, I'd imagine the bigger sizes give you more flow and it's more commom (1/2" tube/fittings).

You can just use the kits as reference as to what you need.

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I think I have the layout sorted. 1 360mm rad at the back, 1 240 at the bottom, and the res at the front where the front intake fans normally would be. I see a lot of builds have 2 res in them is that for aesthetics use or would you be better off running 2 res? 

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Fittings wise which fittings should I use? You need 2 fixings per component is that right? So 2 for the 360 radiator, 2 for the 240 rad, 2  for the pump, 2 for the res, 2 for the CPU block, and 2 for the GPU totalling of 12 correct?

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I used PETG on my first loop and it wasen't easy. I used my kitchen table to bend the pipes. the trick is to bend it 75-80c then put a wet rag on and it will straighten out to 90.

I bought some gloves just incase. I had a heat gun where you can put in exactly what temp you want anywhere from 50-600c. To bend petg you need only 110-130.

So gloves is not nessesary. I spent almost 3 weeks to assemble it. But the endresult looks good. I used magicool rads because its cheaper and have smaller valves.

Also acrylic is similiar to petg its a bit harder to work with so i heard.

Nothing kinks easy with silicone tube you need to use that to bend them. Also you want to heat it up all around equally.

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Think I've chosen all my parts now just need to find someone who has a hardline tool kit in stock PCCG is sold out :(
 
 
 Monsoon HL 16/13mm Compression Fitting Eco Matte Black 6 Pack Monsoon HL 16/13mm Compression Fitting Eco Matte Black 6 Pack In stock $55 $110 X
 
 EK Supremacy EVO CPU Waterblock Gold EK Supremacy EVO CPU Waterblock Gold In stock $115 $115 X
 
 Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 360mm Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 360mm In stock $129 $129 X
 
 Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm Alphacool NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 240mm In stock $119 $119 X
 
 XSPC DDC Photon 270 Reservoir/Pump Combo XSPC DDC Photon 270 Reservoir/Pump Combo In stock $199 $199 X
 
 Monsoon Hardline Acrylic Tubing 16/13mm 1x77cm Clear Monsoon Hardline Acrylic Tubing 16/13mm 1x77cm Clear In stock $12 $24 X
 
 CableMod SATA3 Cable Red CableMod SATA3 Cable Red In stock $12 $36 X
 
 CableMod C-Series AXi, HXi & RM Cable Kit Black/Red CableMod C-Series AXi, HXi & RM Cable Kit Black/Red In stock $129 $129 X
 
 Alphacool HardTube Heat Gun Pro 2000W Alphacool HardTube Heat Gun Pro 2000W In stock $35 $35 X
 
 CableMod WideBeam Foam Adhesive LED Strip White 30cm CableMod WideBeam Foam Adhesive LED Strip White 30cm Expected Dispatch: 27/01/16 $24 $48 X
 
 CableMod WideBeam Foam Adhesive LED Strip White 60cm CableMod WideBeam Foam Adhesive LED Strip White 60cm Expected Dispatch: 27/01/16 $28 $56 X
 

 

Thoughts?
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- snip -

 

Go for a D5 pump.

 

I've got a bunch of 16mm monsoon acrylic tubing (4x61cm and 3x77cm) and their mandrel and cutting kit for sale if you're interested.

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Thanks for the advice! I plan on using clear tubing as well looks much nicer. Coolant I wanted to use I can't remember where it was but I remember seeing a video from PAX where someone had silver coolant which had a swirling effect in it looked like molten metal looked so cool if I can find the vid ill link it.  Tubing and fitting size wise does it really matter which size you use? One thing that put me off doing it myself theres so much to choose from its a bit intimidating knowing what pairs with what well which is why i wanted to use the kits.

Mayhems Aurora and Aurora II is that coolant. A few different colors to choose from. I know what you mean about the looks, I love it too. I have heard mixed things about the performance/longevity of it however. For the most part, it seems like it runs 2-4*C warmer that other coolants (not a big concern for me), and have also heard of some people saying that over time the pearlescent particles will settle in bends, dead spots in the res, and clog blocks. I hear more positive than the negative tho.  I think the changes they made in Aurora II from the original were mainly for those reasons, and is much better now. Performancepcs has it in concentrate and pre mix

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Go for a D5 pump.

I wanted the D5 but there out of stock.

Where about a are you located? We might be able to meet up somewhere I'm in Sydney

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Mayhems Aurora and Aurora II is that coolant. A few different colors to choose from. I know what you mean about the looks, I love it too. I have heard mixed things about the performance/longevity of it however. For the most part, it seems like it runs 2-4*C warmer that other coolants (not a big concern for me), and have also heard of some people saying that over time the pearlescent particles will settle in bends, dead spots in the res, and clog blocks. I hear more positive than the negative tho.  I think the changes they made in Aurora II from the original were mainly for those reasons, and is much better now. Performancepcs has it in concentrate and pre mix

Thanks thought it was. I think I'll stick with standard distilled water everyone I speak to says the mayhem will gunk up and block the loop so I don't want to risk it.

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The Mayhems Aurora is specifically recommended as a show dye only. Not for daily usage. It last a few months at best and can fade fairly quickly depending if you shutdown your computer or not.

 

Im personally using Acrylic Tubes but one section is clear soft tubing just so I can have a QDC. I just open the QDC and then connect extension tubes (also with QDC). One tube goes into a big bottle of water and the other tube goes inside a bucket. Drain everything into the bucket. Then prime and turn on the pump to suck new water out of the bottle. Complete water change in less than 5 minutes.

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Shame, looks so cool! I wonder if you put a motor or something small in there like a pripellar if it would give you at least a little of the same swirling effect in normal coolant? Tossing up where I should put the res im a bit worried that if I put it at the back it wont be high enough to have gravity above all the other components. Front of the case is even tighter. Might have to remove the HDD bays and place it in there, but then it has to lay sideways and I have nowhere to place my 3.5 HDDs. InWin could of designed this case so much better, especially for a "full tower" case it surely does not have the space and capacity of one! But then I am use to the 900D so maybe im a bit skewed...........

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I put my pump above my res. So the pump doesn't prime by gravity, I must force water into the pump.

 

As I said. Just stick the inlet of your pump into a bottle of water. Then drain your res. The suction will draw water into your pump.  Then you just turn on your computer and it fills itself.

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