New Build - No Power...sorta

[oridinalcow]

Hello,

 

I'm new to the community, but I've watched Linus' videos for a long time and I've built/repaired PCs before.

 

However, I'm putting together a new build and it's really not going well.

 

Here's my list of parts:

 

CPU   i7-5820K

CPU Cooler Corsair H100i GTX

Mobo  Asus X99-A

RAM Corsair Vengeance DDR4 16GB (4x4)

GPU EVGA GTX 980 SC (this is from a slightly older machine and I've got a second on the way)

PSU EVGA 1000W G2

SSD Samsung Pro 250GB

HDD WD Black 2TB

Case Fractal Define R5

 

So, I put the system together, and the lights for the power switch and reset power (red and green respectively) come on, on the motherboard

 

At first, when I would press the power switch, things would "sorta" happen, but I'd never see the BIOS come up. Seemed like the system was just shutting off before it could get to that.

 

After much poking around, I found that holding the hoses for the CPU pump, and thus changing the way the way the pump came into contact with the CPU would allow the system to stay and I got to the ASUS BIOS. However once I let go of the hoses, the PC shut off.

 

I thought the issue might be the pre-applied thermal paste from Corsair on the CPU pump, so I took the pump off, made sure the mounts were good and tight (snug), cleaned of the pre-applied paste, applied some Arctic Silver, and re-attached the pump.

 

However, now when I go to turn on the PC, things are worse - nothing happens - just the two LEDs on the on the motherboard stay on!

 

What's wrong with my setup? How can I trouble shoot this?

 

Could I have a faulty motherboard or CPU?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

I've included some pics. Excuse the (lack of) cable management.

 

[Sam Z Man]

If it making noise because if the CPU pump is not working you might have a big problem.

[oridinalcow]

If it making noise because if the CPU pump is not working you might have a big problem.

 

It was before. But like I said, after taking off the pump, re-applying thermal paste, and putting everything black together nothing happens...just those two LED's are on, on the motherboard.

[Cyrus49]

I know this probably won't help but try clearing cmos. If that does not work, try taking the parts out and putting them on the motherboard box and testing them. [i think Linus does this in some of his build guides. 

EDIT: make sure your display is plugged into your gpu.

[Sam Z Man]

It was before. But like I said, after taking off the pump, re-applying thermal paste, and putting everything black together nothing happens...just those two LED's are on, on the motherboard.

If the CPU cooler is absolutely silent it means you might have killed the CPU, because that all in one is supposed to run at one speed only and make a fair amount of noise.

[oridinalcow]

I know this probably won't help but try clearing cmos. If that does not work, try taking the parts out and putting them on the motherboard box and testing them. [i think Linus does this in some of his build guides. 

EDIT: make sure your display is plugged into your gpu.

 

Display is definitely connected to the GPU. What's the best way to clear the CMOS - pull the battery?

 

I'll look for a specific video where he goes through the troubleshooting process.

 

 

If the CPU cooler is absolutely silent it means you might have killed the CPU, because that all in one is supposed to run at one speed only and make a fair amount of noise.

 

Really? How could I have done that? I hope I can return it...

[Sam Z Man]

Really? How could I have done that? I hope I can return it...

Don't return it to the retailer, do a RMA directly through corsair, if the pump is dead they will replace every component that it killed in your build out of pocket.

[Cyrus49]

Display is definitely connected to the GPU. What's the best way to clear the CMOS - pull the battery?

 

I'll look for a specific video where he goes through the troubleshooting process.

 

There might be 2 pins that you short out or mabye a dedicated button.

[oridinalcow]

Don't return it to the retailer, do a RMA directly through corsair, if the pump is dead they will replace every component that it killed in your build out of pocket.

 

How can I tell what it killed?

 

Motherboard and CPU seem like the likely victims...?

[Fictionvl]

try removing each part at a time, and see if it works, it might be the ram

 

also try to make everything cleaner, it will help airflow and such, also all these cables might be doing something, move them away from the motheboard and check 

[slightlyjaded]

Just a heads up, even without a cooler you will get a post. It just won't stay on for long before it overheats, and switches off to protect itself.

 

I'd have to check, but I'm pretty sure all ASUS x99 boards have an onboard diagnostic LED, To get a clean boot, and remove a few problems try this.

 

Switch off your power supply, disconnect it from the wall, switch on your power supply for 20 seconds (this discharges any residual power in the PSU's capacitors) then switch off, plug in, and do a boot. take note of any Q-codes on the LED.

 

While you're doing that I'll see if I can dig out my manual.

[oridinalcow]

try removing each part at a time, and see if it works, it might be the ram

 

also try to make everything cleaner, it will help airflow and such, also all these cables might be doing something, move them away from the motheboard and check 

 

Yeah, I'm going to try rebuilding it out of the case.

 

 

Just a heads up, even without a cooler you will get a post. It just won't stay on for long before it overheats, and switches off to protect itself.

 

I'd have to check, but I'm pretty sure all ASUS x99 boards have an onboard diagnostic LED, To get a clean boot, and remove a few problems try this.

 

Switch off your power supply, disconnect it from the wall, switch on your power supply for 20 seconds (this discharges any residual power in the PSU's capacitors) then switch off, plug in, and do a boot. take note of any Q-codes on the LED.

 

While you're doing that I'll see if I can dig out my manual.

 

 

I agree with the fact that it should post - even if just for a second.

 

I did what you suggested, but unfortunately I'm getting any codes coming up on the LED display. (I did have them the one time where I held the hoses of the pump just right, till it got to the BIOS - unfortunately, I'm no longer able to repeat that 'magic')

 

I'm really stumped and at a loss with how to deal with potential returns or RMA's....

[slightlyjaded]

Yeah, I'm going to try rebuilding it out of the case.

 

 

 

 

I agree with the fact that it should post - even if just for a second.

 

I did what you suggested, but unfortunately I'm getting any codes coming up on the LED display. (I did have them the one time where I held the hoses of the pump just right, till it got to the BIOS - unfortunately, I'm no longer able to repeat that 'magic')

 

I'm really stumped and at a loss with how to deal with potential returns or RMA's....

Okay the usual diagnostic process is to unplug anything that isn't necessary. Take out all but one stick of ram, take out you're graphics card (you don't need a display, the q-code LED will tell you if you get a response) and disconnect any peripherals. Please note, if you've been at this for awhile your CPU will probably be carrying residual heat, and might shut down as soon as it gets power. Annoying I know, but you might have to give it a few minutes before you try again. If it doesn't work, swap out the ram chip for another one, or try it in a different slot.

 

This is both about getting it working, and diagnosing what's faulty so that you only have to send one component through RMA, instead of sending components that are perfectly fine back to the supplier.

 

Oh, and leave your cpu cooler attached for now. Even if it isn't working it gives the cpu heat spreader more thermal mass, so you get a bit longer before it shuts down due to overtemp.

[oridinalcow]

Okay the usual diagnostic process is to unplug anything that isn't necessary. Take out all but one stick of ram, take out you're graphics card (you don't need a display, the q-code LED will tell you if you get a response) and disconnect any peripherals. Please note, if you've been at this for awhile your CPU will probably be carrying residual heat, and might shut down as soon as it gets power. Annoying I know, but you might have to give it a few minutes before you try again. If it doesn't work, swap out the ram chip for another one, or try it in a different slot.

 

This is both about getting it working, and diagnosing what's faulty so that you only have to send one component through RMA, instead of sending components that are perfectly fine back to the supplier.

 

Oh, and leave your cpu cooler attached for now. Even if it isn't working it gives the cpu heat spreader more thermal mass, so you get a bit longer before it shuts down due to overtemp.

 

 

Okay, so for clarification, I should only have the PSU, Motherboard, CPU (and cooler is optional), and a stick of ram connected?

[Knaj]

Okay the usual diagnostic process is to unplug anything that isn't necessary. Take out all but one stick of ram, take out you're graphics card (you don't need a display, the q-code LED will tell you if you get a response) and disconnect any peripherals. Please note, if you've been at this for awhile your CPU will probably be carrying residual heat, and might shut down as soon as it gets power. Annoying I know, but you might have to give it a few minutes before you try again. If it doesn't work, swap out the ram chip for another one, or try it in a different slot.

 

This is both about getting it working, and diagnosing what's faulty so that you only have to send one component through RMA, instead of sending components that are perfectly fine back to the supplier.

 

Oh, and leave your cpu cooler attached for now. Even if it isn't working it gives the cpu heat spreader more thermal mass, so you get a bit longer before it shuts down due to overtemp.

 

If you have any old parts that fit the case, or if a friend has some, try those too, as it can also help you diagnose the issue.

 

For example, it could be a CPU, so if you put in a new CPU that fits the socket, and the computer works now, you know it would be a cpu issue.

[slightlyjaded]

Okay, so for clarification, I should only have the PSU, Motherboard, CPU (and cooler is optional), and a stick of ram connected?

yup, just pay attention to the Q-code LED, they can flash past a little quick at times. the other thing you can do is start it with the clr_cmos button instead. your bios shouldn't have any settings fouling things up, but it might have gone to auto-xmp settings on the first boot.

[oridinalcow]

yup, just pay attention to the Q-code LED, they can flash past a little quick at times. the other thing you can do is start it with the clr_cmos button instead. your bios shouldn't have any settings fouling things up, but it might have gone to auto-xmp settings on the first boot.

 

I don't think there is a clr_cmos button? At least, I can't find one...?

[slightlyjaded]

I don't think there is a clr_cmos button? At least, I can't find one...?

looks like it should be one of those two buttons next to the LED, but I can't find a good enough image I can see the writing.

[slightlyjaded]

I don't think there is a clr_cmos button? At least, I can't find one...?

Had a look at your manual. On your board it's a jumper setup. Look at page 1-21 in your manual to see how to do it.

 

EDIT: Also make sure your ezy-xmp switch is set to off.

[hak4fun]

It might be your pump/fan connector... I know I forgot to plug in my fan once and it wouldn't turn on because of it. Maybe the jiggling of the tubes moved a wire making it work temporarily? Try the stock cooler if you have it. Might be something wrong with your cooler.

[oridinalcow]

Had a look at your manual. On your board it's a jumper setup. Look at page 1-21 in your manual to see how to do it.

 

EDIT: Also make sure your ezy-xmp switch is set to off.

 

Resetting the CMOS didn't help.

 

I'm going to try assembling just the bare minimum components in the morning and hopefully out if I have to make any returns to a physical store or do an RMA.

 

Thanks so much for the help so far

 

It might be your pump/fan connector... I know I forgot to plug in my fan once and it wouldn't turn on because of it. Maybe the jiggling of the tubes moved a wire making it work temporarily? Try the stock cooler if you have it. Might be something wrong with your cooler.

 

Yeah, good point, I don't have a stock cooler to try. The only other cooler I have is an h80i on another machine. But as slightlyjaded mentioned, even if that was the problem - it should post, even if for a second.

[hak4fun]

Resetting the CMOS didn't help.

 

I'm going to try assembling just the bare minimum components in the morning and hopefully out if I have to make any returns to a physical store or do an RMA.

 

Thanks so much for the help so far

 

 

Yeah, good point, I don't have a stock cooler to try. The only other cooler I have is an h80i on another machine. But as slightlyjaded mentioned, even if that was the problem - it should post, even if for a second.

Not neccessarily. A few of my motherboards won't even POST(sense a POST is mean't to test everything before it turns on so it doesn't implode) without the CPU fan header connected.

[iludez]

Sounds like something is shorting out

[Matt420740]

The fact that moving the cooler hoses made it work, and it quit as soon as you let them go makes me wonder if that CPU is seated properly. Remove the CPU and check the socket and pins for damage, then re-install just to be sure thats not the issue.

[oridinalcow]

So, I'm trying to get ready to build the system out of the case, and I've got a new problem: I can't get one of the motherboard screws to loosen because the motherboard standoff that it's in is spinning freely, but not enough to loosen out of the case.

 

Hopefully that make sense?

 

I don't know what to do, the case is in the way of me holding the standoff still so that I can loosen the motherboard screw. I don't want to keep trying to loosen the screw because I can tell that the screw and standoff are pinching the motherboard (and I don't want to crack it or something)