How to Watercool a CPU + Single GPU for under $200 in the U.S.

[Faceman]

The $200 price point is likely going to be limited to the U.S. because of the prices and rebates we have in this country. This can be done anywhere as long as you have access to these parts, but it might cost more than $200. As always, make sure that your components and case are compatible with the parts I am about to list. This responsibility is on you, not me.

There are a couple deals going on right now in the U.S. that make doing this feasible at this price point. Lets get the premise out of the way. The way we achieve this is by using an all-in-one cooler separately for both CPU and GPU. 240mm AIO for the CPU, and Kraken G10 + 120mm AIO for the GPU. Depending on your components, overclock, fan speeds, and ambient temperatures, you are looking at potential sub-50C temps for both your CPU and GPU. That is what I am able to achieve. If you were to do something similar with traditional a la cart water cooling, you are looking at $600 minimum, and that is a generous minimum.


Here are the main components you will need:

The Cooler Master Seidon 240M is currently on sale for $60 on Newegg.com. It is compatible with:Intel LGA 2011 / 1366 / 1156 / 1155 / 1150 / 775, AMD Socket FM2 / FM1 / AM3+ / AM3 / AM2+ / AM2. This is a 27mm thick, 240mm AIO that has the exact same specs as the more well known H100i. What they don't tell you about the H100i is that it has a bad mounting problem and it is not guaranteed to work for everyone out of the box without modifications. Pair that with relatively high pump fail rate, a very loud pump, and shoddy Corsair Link software, and you get a lot of refurbished H100is being sold. The Cooler Master Seidon 240M is an excellent alternative and reviewers tend to agree. In reviews, the difference in performance is 1-2C for either cooler, so considering they have the same specifications, treat them the same.

The MSRP of the Seidon 240M is $95. Newegg.com is currently running a Visa Checkout promotion that gives you 10% off your purchase up to $20 if you sign up for, and pay with Visa Checkout. Its very similar to PayPal, you store your information in their "wallet" and then use the "wallet" to checkout at your popular online stores. They add in things like cell phone verification where you have to enter in the code you are sent via text in order to proceed with the sale. Total time to sign up is no more than 10 minutes, and if you don't want to use it after the initial time, you can delete your account. 10% of $95 gives you $9.5 off the purchase price. On top of that, Cooler Master is giving you a $25 mail-in-rebate for this specific product.You can fill out the MIR online to expedite the process, and to ensure that you are in their database. I always encourage people to take pictures of their IPCs, MIRs, etc.. in the event something were to go wrong. This has never happened to me, but better safe than sorry. The mail in rebate did take the full 8 weeks for me to get back, but I got it and that's what counts.

I ended up only paying $56 for my Seidon 240M, at the time it was only $90 instead of the current $95. Competing products cost almost twice the price I paid. Even if you want to just cool your CPU, this cooler offers incredible price to performance. The only real complaint that I have is that at high RPMs, it is loud. The thing is, it performs so well at low-medium RPMs, that I never have to crank it up higher than 1400rpm. I usually have it at 1250rpm full time and it is very quiet. You do not have to buy the Seidon 240M, I recommend it because it offers the best performance for the least amount of money. You can choose any AIO you want to use for your CPU.

I did my own Review With Statistics of the Cooler Master Seidon 240M, but don't take my word for it as I'm not a highly respected reviewer, take these guys' word for it.

Guru3D Review
240M Review from Anadtech
FrostyTech Top 5 AIO Liquid Coolers(#3)


The other two main components are the NZXT Kraken G10-$25(Check Tigerdirect.com, they often sell G10 Brackets for $10!) and Corsair H55-$50. Before continuing with the GPU WaterCooling, check and make sure that your card is compatible. NZXT has a compatibility checker on the G10 Product Page, but it is not always accurate. If in doubt, ask on the G10 Owner's Club. As this is one of the more complicated mods out there, it is a good idea to do a lot of research and ask a lot of questions. The OCN G10 Owner's Club is a fantastic resource for information if you need help with anything.

Here is a list of compatible cards:
Nvidia : GTX 980Ti, 980, 970, 780 Ti, 780, 770, 760, Titan, 680, 670, 660Ti, 660, 580, 570, 560Ti, 560, 560SE
AMD : R9 290X, 290, 280X, 280, 270X, 270 HD7970, 7950, 7870, 7850, 6970, 6950, 6870, 6850, 6790, 6770, 5870, 5850, 5830
The compatibility list is based on AMD Radeon and NVIDIA's reference board layout, screw spacing and die height only. Please check the height restriction before purchase.
Some variations in AMD and Nvidia die height may require the use of a copper shim($5). Ask in OCN if your specific card needs a shim. I know the EVGA cards w/ ACX Coolers needs a shim.  Also please check to make sure that FrozenCPU is still in business.  If not, I think Amazon sells the shims as add-on items, and of course, eBay.


The Kraken G10 gets a lot of bad publicity because people claim that it has insufficient Voltage Regulation Module(VRM) and Video Card RAM(VRAM) Cooling. For starters, the VRAM never gets hot enough to be worried about, so lets focus on the VRMs. Does the GPU need additional heat sinks for the VRAM and VRMs? In short, no.

The whole "insufficient VRAM/VRM cooling" began with a review of the G10 by Puget Systems. This review is probably the most critical review of the G10 out there. While it makes an interesting point, I have to explain its critical flaw to a certain extend. To begin, their Unigine temperature test, which is most closely related to video game performance, their measured temperatures are perfectly fine, they are lower with the G10 than with the stock heat sink for both the GTX Titan and Reference R9 290X(Notorious for high heat). The only time when we see the temperatures higher with the G10 than the stock heat sink are when they run Kombustor.
Also, when reading their test setup portion of the review, they state that their X41 is set as intake, which blasts very hot air over the GPU, further increasing the temperatures recorded. Normally AIOs won't produce much heat on the business end because they are cooling lower TDP CPUs in the 80-90 range, but these are 250-290 TDP cards and the heat being pushed out of the radiator is hot. It is always, always recommended to set your radiator to exhaust when used in conjunction with the G10 because the air being pushed out is so hot. The radiator set to intake could very well be increasing the temperatures by an additional 5-10C as witnessed by other members on the G10 Owner's Club. Switching their radiator fans from intake to exhaust worked wonders for them, so their test system is not set up in a recommended manner.

Kombustor/Furmark is a program that should NEVER be run. It puts unnecessary load on the GPU that is completely unrealistic. It is a card killer. It is uncommon, but happens enough that it needs to be mentioned. Kombustor can and will brick your card. It happened to me earlier this year, and it happens to many others. Let me provide a quick analogy so that you can better understand what Furmark is, and how it compares to how you would regularly use your graphics card.

When you are gaming, changes are going on in the game, your GPU is basically using "adaptive mode" similar to your CPU to ramp up and down as the game calls for it. Depending on the action, or lack thereof that is going on in game, the GPU adapts to that scenario. It isn't going to use excessive amounts of power on a loading screen, or a cut scene, or something non-demanding. When something demanding does happen, then the GPU will ramp up to meet that demand.

Think of a Nascar Race, imagine the car as your GPU. When you are racing, your car is always adapting to the situation around you. You speed up, you slow down, you turn, you pit stop, things are going on that your car has to adapt to similar to your GPU when you game.

Now, what Furmark does is not like a game, or a Nascar race. Furmark is like a drag race. A pedal to the metal, push the car/GPU as hard as it can possibly go in a straight line, no turning, no stopping, just full on, all out go, go, GO! In a realistic scenario of GPU use, you would never, ever encounter this type of load. It is entirely unrealistic. I understand why reviewers use it, to get a worst case scenario idea, but it is so far outside the real of realism, that it should not be used. If your cooling cannot keep up with this excessive heat and load applied to the GPU, or there was a bad solder job done at the factory, or any number of things related to power delivery, that is when Furmark has the potential to break or degrade your GPU.

For most people, Furmark doesn't do anything to their GPU. But for a small percentage of people, Furmark has broken their card, including myself. A quick google and you will see that this is an issue. Not a big one, but large enough that it needs to be talked about.


I like to give my components 2 weeks of break in time before overclocking to make sure everything is working properly. This is what I did with my brand new, MSi GTX 770 Lightning. I had used the card for 2 weeks, no problems, everything going fine. As you know with a Lightning, this is a card built specifically for overclocking. Without knowing what I know now, I ran Kombustor at stock settings to get a baseline for my overclocks. It took all of 3 minutes running Kombustor on a brand new, factory settings card for it to break. I am not the only one this has happened to, so I always tell my story whenever I get a chance because Kombustor is a dangerous program, and should not be used. If you want to run some benchmarks for your GPU, use Unigine, 3DMark, and In-game benchmark utilities. Not Furmark/Kombustor.

Back to the Puget review. They ran Kombustor during their test, which as a reviewer, they should do in order to review the G10 in all scenarios to give the reader an idea of what to expect. My problem with the review and the negative perception it has created is that it is an unrealistic scenario, one which I would not recommend anyone do at home, and you are unlikely to encounter that type of load during regular use. I'm not aware of any real world applications where your GPU would be put under that much stress. So lets look at the part of the review that pertains to real world scenarios, their Unigine portion of the test. The VRM temperatures are perfectly fine, even lower with the G10 than the stock heat sink. This is with "naked" cards. A lot of non-reference cards which a lot of people own come with mid-plates that passively cool the VRAM and VRMs.

To give you an idea of what VRM temperatures are like for those of us at home, we asked members of the OCN G10 Owner's Club, who have cards that can monitor the VRM temperatures to run some tests. Simple before and after tests. There are two reviews that I will point to. The Asus DCUII GTX 780Ti, Post #1147 and a reference R9 290 Post #1486 & Post #1500
You will see that the guy with the Asus GTX 780Ti was getting DCUII temperatures of 86C on the Core and 104C on the VRMs, his card was overclocked. You can look at the link to see specifics of his OC, nothing major, very average. Once he did the G10 modification without extra heat sinks, he was able to further overclock his card to the max allowable under stock BIOS and temperatures dropped to 49C on the Core, and 81C on the VRMs. This tells us two things. #1, the VRMs can withstand a lot of heat, #2 the G10's Fan does an excellent job of cooling the VRMs on its own.
There was another test done with an R9 290. They went as far as to do a before and after test with heat sinks on their G10. that they went from something like 90C on the core with the reference cooler all the way down to 55C with G10 + H55. VRMs went from 110C down to 75C. Most importantly, when they added heat sinks the VRM temperatures dropped from 75C to 60C. So adding heat sinks does help out if you are concerned about VRM temperatures. This was with a reference R9 290, so it was a naked card without mid-plate to passively help cool VRAM and VRMs. These are just two examples, if you read through that thread, there are many more.

In summation,VRM temperatures are not a concern as long as you don't run a dangerous program like Kombustor/Furmark, and have a case with good airflow. For awhile now people have been thinking that its a hardware problem, when in reality, its a software problem. You will be perfectly fine buying just a Kraken G10 + AIO of your choice without extra heat sinks, provided you have good airflow in your case. Any extras you decide to buy are optional, but I still do recommend picking up a pack of aluminum heatsinks and thermal tape/pads to air on the side of caution. It is only $10 and will give you the peace of mind that your card is safe, and it is proven that these extra heatsinks improve VRM thermals by quite a bit.

 

I am also going to strongly urge you to give a look over @VSG's Unboxing, Review, and Testing of the NZXT G10.  This guy has spent so much time testing the G10 in so many different scenarios that you owe it to him to look over this review before making your buying decision.  This is a must read, especially if you are considering this for an R9 290.  He covers a lot of areas I don't, and he is an all around great guy that does the best reviews on the web in my opinion.  You can also check out his website, ThermalBench.com.  He has consistently done some of the very best testing and reviews available for us to enjoy.  This guy is a reviewing master, and chances are if you are asking yourself a question in your head, he has already covered it.

 

Here is a list of my optional extras you might want to buy to go along with your G10:

Cosmos mini Aluminum VGA Heatsinks(20pc) - $6 You can place these on your VRAM and VRMs for peace of mind if you like. I do encourage readers to do this. It is what I did, even with a card that has a mid-plate. My VRMs have never exceeded 54C according to my NZXT Sentry 3 Fan Controller.

Sekisui Double-Sided Adhesive Thermal Heatsink Tape(2pc) - $3 The heat sinks listed above come with thermal tape pre-applied, but it is not very good quality and people report them falling off. Buy this high end thermal tape to get better heat transfer, and to make sure your heat sinks stay on. You will have to remove the old pre-applied tape before using the good tape. DO NOT use thermal adhesive.  If your card doesn't have a mid plate, then you will need thermal pads, shown below.

 

Cards without built in Heatsinks/Midplates

If you have a card without a mid-plate and want to install heatsinks onto your VRMs, you will need thermal pads #1, or thermal pads #2 not thermal tape.  You need double sided adhesive thermal pads, electrically non-conductive, and anywhere from .5mm to 1.5mm thick.  You will not be able to mount copper heatsinks to this, they will just fall off because of their weight.  Use aluminum.

 

 

Place the thermal pads over the VRMs similar to above.  If you are using the aluminum heatsinks I recommended, those come with pre-applied thermal tape.    Mount the heatsinks on top of the thermal pads.  You should let the heatsinks sit on top of the thermal pads for an hour or two before trying to mount in your chassis.  Give the heatsinks a good thumb press to help with sticking.  Don't use too much force, use your best judgement.  You want a strong adhesive bond to form before mounting and before you start cranking up the heat.

Aftermarket Thermal Compound, it comes pre-applied on most AIO Coolers, but if you want to buy some performance stuff to shave off an additional 1-4C buy your own. Can also be used on your CPU. It is also nice to have just in case you need to remount anything. The Cooler Master Seidon 240M actually comes with a tube that you can apply yourself, so you will have some extra. This TIM is good, but definitely not "performance" stuff. I recommend Gelid GC-Extreme - $11 There are many other good brands to choose from, this is simply what I use and recommend, it worked wonders for me.

VGA to PWM Fan Adapter - $5 This Fan Adapter is very nice because it allows you to plug the G10's 92mm fan directly into the GPU instead of into the valuable motherboard fan headers. Once plugged into the video card, you can control the fan speed in MSI Afterburner. Set it to a constant speed, not a fan curve. The reason being is that the temperature in Afterburner is derived from the core, but the fan is for the VRMs. Set it to a constant value of close to 100%.

Cooler Master Blade Master 120mm PWM Fan - $8-$12 A 2nd 120mm fan for your H55 will go a long way in cooling performance, and noise. Having two fans allows you to run them at lower speeds, keeping the noise down, while maintaining the same awesomely low temperatures as a single fan at high speed, or crank them both up for even better performance.

Anti-Kink Coils - $4 per tube. One tube per AIO is necessary. This is a pure aesthetics purchase, but it does make your tubing stand out and look really cool. If you do buy the AIOs that I recommended, you will need 1/2 OD Anti-Kink Coils. You have to get one size up OD in order to make it fit properly. Adds a very cool effect to your case.


Antec Spot Cool
I just discovered this product, and I think this is a real winner. It will allow a lot of people who otherwise had reservations about the G10 mod to do it with confidence. This is an older fan and I haven't ever heard it talked about, I stumbled upon it thanks to a video Linus did way back.

This fan is an incredible way to get more cooling on your GPU. What it is, is a fan that can mount directly to your motherboard, anywhere that it is screwed in via standoffs, but I'm confident you aren't limited to just your motherboard as the only place of installation. It has a bendable extension arm, and the fan swivels within its mount which allows you to get direct airflow virtually anywhere you want within your chassis. It comes in two sizes, 80mm and 100mm. It also has 3 speeds that you can control with a switch on the fan(H/M/L). Judging from reviews, it is loud on the high setting, audible at medium, and quiet on low. Here is the product specification page with all the fan specs based on speed and size. It is not expensive, at only $12.75 on Amazon with Prime.

Here is a video review of it:

The only potential downside I see is that it has a blue LED, and that is not desirable for everyone.

Dual Fan Mount PCI Racks
There are two different products that do essentially the same thing. They mount a fan directly underneath your GPU using PCI slot mounting. The first one allows you to use your own 80 or 90mm fan, and lets you mount one or two as you need. It is from an international seller, so keep in mind shipping times. Dual Fan Mount Rack - $6

The second item is a complete package with fans already included, and a built in knob to control fan speed. It also mounts via PCI slot, and allows for horizontal airflow, which is perfect for hard to reach places such as the VRMs on your GPU. The downside is that it does get loud at higher speeds as shown in the video below, and it has a very bright UV Blue LED that I'm not sure if you can turn off. Vantec SP-FC70-BL Spectrum - $15, also available through Amazon for the same price via Prime.

Antec Cyclone Blower
This isn't as good as the products listed above, but it still has its purpose. If you own a case that has poor airflow, this is an excellent way to get some better circulation in your case without breaking the bank. It sucks air through a blower style fan that is mounted via PCI slot, and exhausts that hot air out the rear of your chassis. Some silence optimized cases like the H440 and Define R4 will probably stand to benefit from this tiny blower style fan to help extract that hot, stagnant air.

Antec Cyclone Blower - $11



If anyone knows of some additional products that you think fit into this "Alternative Cooling" category, please don't hesitate to mention it. There are a lot of international users who don't have access to all the products that are so readily available to those of us in the U.S. and Canada, and they rely on these alternative cooling methods to safely cool down their cards. Also for those who have VRMs on the opposite side of their GPU Die, these coolers help them safely do the G10 mod.



Without any extras, lets tally up the cost:
Cooler Master Seidon 240M - $60.5 w/ Free Shipping  Or use AIO of your choice for CPU.
NZXT G10 Bracket - $10-$25 + Shipping
Corsair H55 - $50 + Shipping NCIXUS

That brings your total to water cool a CPU + single GPU to ~$145 including shipping! You are given a lot of extra money to either save or buy some extras with. But best of all, you just water cooled your system and will now get to experience added performance, lower temperatures, and lower noise for a fraction of the cost of traditional water cooling.



I'm going to do some gloating now, because I paid so little, and got so much out of it. I hope to share this with the rest of you.

Here are my temps during a 5 hour long Battlefield 4 session. Settings for BF4 are 1920x1080, Ultra everything, 4x MSAA, 120% Resolution Scale, 80% FoV, with V-Sync On. Using an i5-4670k OC'd to 4.5Ghz @ 1.160v cooled by the Seidon 240M at 1350rpm(90%) Pump speed and 1250rpm(50%) Fan speed(2 fans in push).

My EVGA GTX 780 SC is cooled by NZXT Kraken G10 and X31(120mm x 30mm Radiator) with 2 Fans in Push/Pull. The X31's pump speed is at 3600rpm(90%), and Fans at 1250rpm(50%). The G10's 92mm Fan is cooling the VRMs at a constant 2400rpm(75%) and according to my NZXT Sentry3 Fan Controller, I have never seen them exceed 54C.

 

My case is the Phanteks Enthoo Pro. Ambient temperature is 23.8C/75F. It does help that my case is underneath the A/C Vent, so keep that in mind. Sitting two feet away with case at head level, I am getting a reading of 46 Dba using Sound Meter Lite App on my phone.






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If you are thinking of getting into water cooling, this is a very inexpensive alternative to a custom loop. If you have any questions, I am happy to help answer them to the best of my abilities.

[FLAMMABLEGAS17481]

Mindf$%&... :blink:  :wacko:  :unsure:

[Faceman]

Mindf$%&... :blink:  :wacko:  :unsure:

I hope in the good mind$%^& kind of way.

[FLAMMABLEGAS17481]

I hope in the good mind$%^& kind of way.

me no compute anymore... 1010110010001111100101010

[nick99n]

mfw i have an h55 and 7850 with this mod i could easily buy a better aio for my cpu and watercool my gpu 

so to sum it up ...i just remove my gpu cooler and place the h55 ? i did not see any mods needed 

[Faceman]

mfw i have an h55 and 7850 with this mod i could easily buy a better aio for my cpu and watercool my gpu

so to sum it up ...i just remove my gpu cooler and place the h55 ? i did not see any mods needed

I'm not sure what you're asking? Let me try and piece this together. You have an H55 that is cooling your CPU? You want to move your H55 to your 7850 and buy a new CPU cooler? In order to do that, you will have to buy the G10 Bracket and a new CPU cooler. That's it. Unless if you want some of the optional extras I mentioned.

Doing this mod does require removing the stock cooler/heatsink of your 7850.

[nick99n]

I'm not sure what you're asking? Let me try and piece this together. You have an H55 that is cooling your CPU? You want to move your H55 to your 7850 and buy a new CPU cooler? In order to do that, you will have to buy the G10 Bracket and a new CPU cooler. That's it. Unless if you want some of the optional extras I mentioned.

Doing this mod does require removing the stock cooler/heatsink of your 7850.

but there is no actual modding in the gpu and/or the h55? 

[Faceman]

but there is no actual modding in the gpu and/or the h55?

Hmmm not exactly. This is a more advanced project though which is why it's often referred to as a mod. You are modifying your graphics card.

[nick99n]

Hmmm not exactly. This is a more advanced project though which is why it's often referred to as a mod. You are modifying your graphics card.

ty for this informative artictle this is something i will try for sure the summer 

[Faceman]

ty for this informative artictle this is something i will try for sure the summer

Let us know how it goes. Check to see if your model.of 7850 requires a shim. Ask on OCN G10 Owner's Club.

[nick99n]

Let us know how it goes. Check to see if your model.of 7850 requires a shim. Ask on OCN G10 Owner's Club.

i don't need any more help ,next time i change thermal paste i will see if it fits gently (from a search it seems like it will fit) 

right now i don't have the money to buy a cpu cooler but the summer i will do a big upgrade ,i will keep only the gpu for sure and maybe the ram so i will make a build log  

[mariohead123]

Are those aerocool DS case fans towards the front? If they are, how do you like them. If they're not then nvm

[Faceman]

Are those aerocool DS case fans towards the front? If they are, how do you like them. If they're not then nvm

Yes they are.  They are not good, at least my experience with them has been bad.  They look fantastic, but that is all they have going for them.

 

A brief rundown of the problems I have been having with them:

When connected to the motherboard(DC mode) the LEDs would flicker and the speed would ramp up and down.  This only went away when I set it to 70%+ fan speed.  At this high of RPM(1300) they are loud and emit a humming noise.  Thinking that maybe it was a problem with my motherboard, I bought an NZXT Sentry 3 Fan Controller.  I encountered the same problem.  If I run it at anything less than 70% speed, the LEDs flicker and the speed of the fan ramps up and down.  The humming noise wasn't as bad on the Fan Controller, but still there.  The fans look fantastic, which is why I keep them because they tie my build together so well.  But the actual performance of the fan, I am extremely disappointed.

[arnavvr]

what about a glacer 240l with a gpu water block

[Faceman]

what about a glacer 240l with a gpu water block

You won't get as good of performance as this, and it will cost more money.

 

Glacer 240L = $145

GPU Waterblock = $90-$130

= ~$250

 

Not only does the Glacer 240L have very bad ratings, you would be spending more money for less performance.

[Swndlr]

so sick... might actually do this if i can get it working on a 970.

[nikolaizombie1]

Can i get this working in a corsair 330R?

Also MindBlown!!!!

can i do it only for the GPU since my cpu has a 212 evo?

[Faceman]

Can i get this working in a corsair 330R?

Also MindBlown!!!!

can i do it only for the GPU since my cpu has a 212 evo?

Absolutely. The 330R is a big enough case that you can easily do this. If you decide to keep the 212 EVO, you can do the GPU only for around $100. If you decide you want to do the CPU also, its as simple as buying the Cooler Master Seidon 240M for $60 after MIR.

[nikolaizombie1]

Absolutely. The 330R is a big enough case that you can easily do this. If you decide to keep the 212 EVO, you can do the GPU only for around $100. If you decide you want to do the CPU also, its as simple as buying the Cooler Master Seidon 240M for $60 after MIR.

Thanks, and also awesome guide man you rock!

[boboman342]

 

*snip*

YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASSSSSSHHHHHHH! FELLOW LUXE OWNER!!!!

[Faceman]

YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASSSSSSHHHHHHH! FELLOW LUXE OWNER!!!!

Pro Owner, but I do wish I had sprung for the Luxe instead. Either way, both cases are incredible.

[boboman342]

Pro Owner, but I do wish I had sprung for the Luxe instead. Either way, both cases are incredible.

Hey man, I feel your pain. Saving $20 now may seem ok....but you later think about spending that $20 on something better/cooler

[Faceman]

Hey man, I feel your pain. Saving $20 now may seem ok....but you later think about spending that $20 on something better/cooler

$20?  I thought the difference in price is $50.

[boboman342]

$20?  I thought the difference in price is $50.

The price between the pro and the luxe is $50, i was just making a broad reference about saving money, when you really could of spend a little more for what you really wanted.

[Faceman]

The price between the pro and the luxe is $50, i was just making a broad reference about saving money, when you really could of spend a little more for what you really wanted.

ahh gotcha.  Yea, I just thought wow, the Pro for only $100! What a deal.  And at the time, I didn't view the Luxe as worth an additional $50.  Even now, its not really worth an extra $50 for the features it adds, but I do wish I sprung for it.  The feature I want is for the extra fans to be placed underneath the top hatch.