CPU idle 42c Dual loop 295x2 4790k

[Seed]

Hello,

 

I have a question. I have just finished my first water cooling rig in about 6 years. It has a 280mm rad on top as intake, a front 140mm rad as intake and a rear 140mm as exhaust in a Rosewill Mini-ITX W1-S. a ROG impact VI and a Sapphire 295x2. The pump and res are externally mounted and are an EK combo. 

 

The loop goes res, to 140mm rad, to CPU to 280mm rad to GPU back to res. rads are 140@80mm and 280@60mm. Fans are corsair air AF140s.

 

After I start it up it takes about 10 minutes to get to this sort of even temperature. I know this card can run pretty hot so I am wondering if the GPUs are causing the overall water loop to run up to this level.

 

Any ideas?

 

I also have a CPU Heatkiller waterblock.

[Cacao]

What's wrong with 42c? Is that under load?

[Tea1337]

if it's 42*c under load, that's amazing. If it's 42*c idle, you may need a bigger case and another 240mm/360mm radiator.

[Seed]

idle. sorry. no load. The case is pretty darn big already and the side panel isn't on.

Updated original post with more detail..

now it's idle @45c. Im just sitting in the bios. I have a feeling these fans aren't strong enough to push through these rads properly. The case has a nice rear fan switch with l/m/h settings for 3 fans. They are all hooked up to my radiator fans. I just turned it from med to high and temps dropped to 42 now. Still high imo.

ok so I noticed with this CPU block it's spring loaded so I wrenched the springs down a few rotations on each corner and the temps are around 36c with fans on high. Still seems a little high but it's much better. Ive read some other setups with SLI and CPU in loops and they idle sometimes @40 and load @60s. I guess we'll see how the overclocking does after I get the OSs on it.

hmmm. So I got prime on the loop and ran it, started off at 68-70 degrees stock load at 100%. Then after awhile if found itself close too 100c and the CPU throttled back @ 3.5GHz. I think my block isn't seated right. This block sucks without the backplate. It should have been included. I think I'm going to get an EK supremacy block and replace this one. Also ordered the back plate so I'll have 2 to work with. I hope it helps.

[Bagmup]

hmmm. So I got prime on the loop and ran it, started off at 68-70 degrees stock load at 100%. Then after awhile if found itself close too 100c and the CPU throttled back @ 3.5GHz. I think my block isn't seated right. This block sucks without the backplate. It should have been included. I think I'm going to get an EK supremacy block and replace this one. Also ordered the back plate so I'll have 2 to work with. I hope it helps.

 

Friends don't let friends use Prime95 on Haswell.

 

Don't use Prime95.

 

http://www.aida64.com/

[Seed]

eesh. prime used to be the one. Guess I've been out of the game too long. I'll give this a go but the underlying issue still persists.

[Gamingfreak]

ok so I noticed with this CPU block it's spring loaded so I wrenched the springs down a few rotations on each corner and the temps are around 36c with fans on high. Still seems a little high but it's much better. Ive read some other setups with SLI and CPU in loops and they idle sometimes @40 and load @60s. I guess we'll see how the overclocking does after I get the OSs on it.

If it's an EK block the nuts over the 4 springs holding it down should be tightened until they stop, not until you think it's tight enough. It's designed that way and should provide the right amount of pressure on the cpu once they're tightened down. Your temps should be fine once it's mounted properly.

[Seed]

It's not a ek block but a heat killer.

[Gamingfreak]

It's not a ek block but a heat killer.

Hm not too familiar with that one then. If the pressure is adjustable maybe just refer to the manual and fine tune it since you got good results by tightening a bit. Also don't take your idle temp readings from the BIOS. The UEFI actually puts a light load on the cpu which will cause it to heat it up more than if it were just idle in windows. Take your idle reading just by letting it sit in windows for about 10 minutes after boot up and remember at the end of the day it's all about the load temps.

[Seed]

Hm not too familiar with that one then. If the pressure is adjustable maybe just refer to the manual and fine tune it since you got good results by tightening a bit. Also don't take your idle temp readings from the BIOS. The UEFI actually puts a light load on the cpu which will cause it to heat it up more than if it were just idle in windows. Take your idle reading just by letting it sit in windows for about 10 minutes after boot up and remember at the end of the day it's all about the load temps.

 

Thank you for the advice but I did take the temps from the OS. I also don't believe that idle temps would be less with an OS running as opposed to the BIOS reading. The reading itself may be in question per the software, that may be true. The OS has a host of services running that likely have a higher CPU use than that of the BIOS.

[Gamingfreak]

Thank you for the advice but I did take the temps from the OS. I also don't believe that idle temps would be less with an OS running as opposed to the BIOS reading. The reading itself may be in question per the software, that may be true. The OS has a host of services running that likely have a higher CPU use than that of the BIOS.

 

In the UEFI BIOS the CPU won't go into any low power states and it also can load up the cpu a fair bit. A simple google search will back up what I'm saying so you don't have to take my word for it. In Windows however, all the low power states will be active provided you didn't disable them and the usage will be lower overall as well. To put it simply the BIOS will definitely load up the CPU more than just sitting in Windows which is why you will see higher temperatures there.

[airdeano]

to make any determinations what is your ambient temperature (room temperature)?

what is your overclock? what overclock voltage?

what monitoring software are you using for temperatures?

 

and that is the CPU idling at 42°? what are the GPU(s) temps idle/loaded?

 

if stock, you have a bad CPU mount or trapped air in the system.

 

AF140 are crap radiator fans. you deffo need a better fan option for more airflow to have

better loaded temperature, won't help idle temperature other than it'll take a longer

amount of time to recover from long use of load.

[Seed]

I finally got around to replacing the water block with the EK one. I feel the heatkiller wasn't set right, Without a back plate it's just a bunch of spinning nuts. I redid the loop again, and added a pull to one side of the dual radiator top and a pull to the front 120mm intake. Also replaced with all notcua, 4x140mm and 2x120mm. Just stock, idle is after about an hour of running 35-37c and @ load 67-70c. I would like to get cooler if possible just not sure how.

 

GPU @ 40-42c idle

[airdeano]

@Seed

 

is that in stock clocking or overclock?

what is your ambient air temperature (room temp)?

[Philio]

I feel the heatkiller wasn't set right, Without a back plate it's just a bunch of spinning nuts.

 

You're lucky you didn't kill your motherboard, it's not strong enough to attach a water block to directly and will flex under pressure or even break. It certainly will not provide an even contact/force between the block and the CPU die that you should have for optimal cooling. Some boards are ok without a backplate, e.g. socket 2011, but they have a ton of extra metal on both sides of the socket to the same effect as a backplate.

[Ghost]

You're lucky you didn't kill your motherboard, it's not strong enough to attach a water block to directly and will flex under pressure or even break. It certainly will not provide an even contact/force between the block and the CPU die that you should have for optimal cooling. Some boards are ok without a backplate, e.g. socket 2011, but they have a ton of extra metal on both sides of the socket to the same effect as a backplate.

Nope. I have a Heatkiller block attached without a backplate (or any metal besides the VRM block around the socket) and it works perfectly. PCBs are actually difficult to snap. If you watch for warping while tightening the block and follow the instructions it's perfectly fine. They wouldn't release a product that doesn't work.

[Seed]

So here is the latest. I think i've benchmarked the current stock configuration. 86c sustained temperature at load for CPU and 70c for GPU. Under the thresholds and quiet, no fan boost or pump boost, not sure pump will matter but.... It isn't terrible considering the size of the case and what's in the loop I guess but was hoping to OC some perhaps to 4.8 but I don't see how that's feasible without going close to 100c. I'm still going to try however.

 

The current loop and config is as follows:

 

Res >> 120 >> CPU >> 280 >> GPU >> Res

 

Dual push fans on top for the 280mm rad, with one pull underneath, push pull through the 120mm in front and a 140mm external pull in the back.

 

 

aida64 is awesome. Thank you for the recommendation.

 

@Gamingfreak perhaps you're right. I will read about that some.

[Seed]

Some pictures. Haven't finished wire clean up til I get the cooling sorted:

 

 

[Legitsu]

prime95 makes the chip get so hot because it uses AVX and AVX causes maximum Stress it is EXACTLY what you wanna use if you are intending on using AVX capable programs 

if you cooling can't keep it under 90C at AVX loads then its not good enough 

as to the odd temps I would check and make sure the cpu voltage isn't set to something silly 1.150 should be enough for stock and with 1.25 being enough for most overclocks 

did you bleed the system again and check the water temps to ensure heat is actually making it into the system ?

[Seed]

prime95 makes the chip get so hot because it uses AVX and AVX causes maximum Stress it is EXACTLY what you wanna use if you are intending on using AVX capable programs 

if you cooling can't keep it under 90C at AVX loads then its not good enough 

as to the odd temps I would check and make sure the cpu voltage isn't set to something silly 1.150 should be enough for stock and with 1.25 being enough for most overclocks 

did you bleed the system again and check the water temps to ensure heat is actually making it into the system ?

 

voltage is pretty normal @ 1.2029 @ 4.4GHz. I would expect a cooler running CPU if voltage was 1.150. I would also expect crashing not heat no?

 

I'm not sure what heat making it into the system means but the water loop warms up over time and the exhaust has a pretty consistent warm air flow exiting.

[Legitsu]

core voltage seem to vary a bit with these new chips try knocking it down to 1.175 and see if its unstable it should not need 1.25 for ~4ghz tho

else better cooling is in order or delidding and some coolitlabs lquid metal that will knock 20c off the load temps Or both ( yes delidding still helps massively even with the 4790)

you are still gonna see 75-85c@ 4.6Ghz`ish with even the beastliest cooler thats just haswel

[Seed]

I delidded an Ivy a couple years back. I didn't notice a 20c difference back then. Do you have any sources?

[update]

I'm running a test now @ 1.175 clocked to 4.4GHz. We'll see how that goes.

[update]

running fine so far at 1.175 @ 4.4GHz. Temps got to 86c on the CPU then I flipped the switch that controls the 3 140mm 280mm radiator fans and temps dropped down by 10c. It's obviously louder but the temps are reasonable, I think.

Curious why, if I can get stable @ 1.175 running 4.4, why would 4.7 or 4.8 @ 1.25/1.30 be not possible? I even set my RAM down to 2GHz.

[airdeano]

Curious why, if I can get stable @ 1.175 running 4.4, why would 4.7 or 4.8 @ 1.25/1.30 be not possible? I even set my RAM down to 2GHz.

 

because it does not scale that way.