AMD Wraith Prism loud on idle with R5 5600x

[Kanna]

I have a Ryzen 5 5600x that I put a AMD Wraith Prism on as I had one over from another build with a Ryzen 7 7700, but in this system with an aurous x570 elite board I experience the CPU fan is quite loud and will always be over 1500RPM even on idle, I tried tweaking some fan curves, but I experienced the temp went up a lil too much (in other words, inexperienced) I run the balanced system power plan so no always boosting here, if anyone has some tips if this is even fixable, I noticed my friend with a build using the newer CPU had like 800RPM idle. To clarify, I would upgrade the cooler if I had the money.

[TatamiMatt]

13 minutes ago, Kanna said:

I have a Ryzen 5 5600x that I put a AMD Wraith Prism on as I had one over from another build with a Ryzen 7 7700, but in this system with an aurous x570 elite board I experience the CPU fan is quite loud and will always be over 1500RPM even on idle, I tried tweaking some fan curves, but I experienced the temp went up a lil too much (in other words, inexperienced) I run the balanced system power plan so no always boosting here, if anyone has some tips if this is even fixable, I noticed my friend with a build using the newer CPU had like 800RPM idle. To clarify, I would upgrade the cooler if I had the money.

Might need repasted and torqued down a little harder, also check the advanced power settings and processor power management, might be able to turn the minimum down to like 5% or 1% instead of...whatever its at and the processor should be able to hit a lower floor when it needs to

[Agall]

12 minutes ago, Kanna said:

I have a Ryzen 5 5600x that I put a AMD Wraith Prism on as I had one over from another build with a Ryzen 7 7700, but in this system with an aurous x570 elite board I experience the CPU fan is quite loud and will always be over 1500RPM even on idle, I tried tweaking some fan curves, but I experienced the temp went up a lil too much (in other words, inexperienced) I run the balanced system power plan so no always boosting here, if anyone has some tips if this is even fixable, I noticed my friend with a build using the newer CPU had like 800RPM idle. To clarify, I would upgrade the cooler if I had the money.

Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 SE CPU Air Cooler, PA120 SE, 6 Heat Pipes Cpu cooler,Dual 120mm TL-C12C PWM Fan, Aluminium Heatsink Cover, AGHP Technology, for AMD AM4 AM5/Intel 1700/1150/1151/1155 - Newegg.com

 

Even one of these

 

Thermalright Assassin King 120 SE CPU Air Cooler, AK120 SE, 5 Heatpipes, AGHP technology TL-C12C PWM Quiet Fan CPU Cooler With S-FDB Bearing, for AMD AM4 AM5/Intel 1150/1151/1200/1700, PC Cooler - Newegg.com

 

Just buy one of these and be happy. There's only so much a cast aluminum block can do regarding heat transfer and thermal mass, where heat pipes come in to save the day.

 

The stock cooler is designed to operate within limits of stock settings, so outside of doing a well designed undervolt and replacing the stock TIM with something quality (which involves money), there's a hard limit on a block of aluminum. 

[Agall]

2 minutes ago, TatamiMatt said:

Might need repasted and torqued down a little harder, also check the advanced power settings and processor power management, might be able to turn the minimum down to like 5% or 1% instead of...whatever its at and the processor should be able to hit a lower floor when it needs to

The stock coolers are dead stopped and torqued with springs, so as long as they're bottomed out, there's proper and maximum torque.

[Kanna]

1 minute ago, TatamiMatt said:

Might need repasted and torqued down a little harder, also check the advanced power settings and processor power management, might be able to turn the minimum down to like 5% or 1% instead of...whatever its at and the processor should be able to hit a lower floor when it needs to

The processor is set to 5% by default by the balanced power plan, and I verified it. But however, you could be right on the repasting and remounting, because it feels like the cooler can be rotated ever so slightly when you wiggle, so perhaps it's not sitting good enough. Will order some paste and try. Also setting the minimum 4% lower to 1 did not change anything so probably all comes down to mounted badly

[PDifolco]

19 minutes ago, Kanna said:

I have a Ryzen 5 5600x that I put a AMD Wraith Prism on as I had one over from another build with a Ryzen 7 7700, but in this system with an aurous x570 elite board I experience the CPU fan is quite loud and will always be over 1500RPM even on idle, I tried tweaking some fan curves, but I experienced the temp went up a lil too much (in other words, inexperienced) I run the balanced system power plan so no always boosting here, if anyone has some tips if this is even fixable, I noticed my friend with a build using the newer CPU had like 800RPM idle. To clarify, I would upgrade the cooler if I had the money.

What temps do you have with fan at 800-1000rpm ? Having 50C idle / 80C load is fine

[Kanna]

Just now, PDifolco said:

What temps do you have with fan at 800-1000rpm ? Having 50C idle / 80C load is fine

I should've clarified that it was my friends build over in school that had the low speed fan, and the computer lab is under much better cooling conditions so it's at like 36 on the 880RPM, so perhaps I make an unfair comparison.

[TatamiMatt]

Just now, Kanna said:

I should've clarified that it was my friends build over in school that had the low speed fan, and the computer lab is under much better cooling conditions so it's at like 36 on the 880RPM, so perhaps I make an unfair comparison.

Even if you have $15 to spare (and live in the US) this should be a decent upgrade over stock

https://www.newegg.com/p/13C-000Y-000F4?Item=9SIBFKMJJY9282

[Kanna]

4 minutes ago, Agall said:

The stock coolers are dead stopped and torqued with springs, so as long as they're bottomed out, there's proper and maximum torque.

that's what I thought, so bad design that it wiggles ig? still doesn't fully explain it.

5 minutes ago, Agall said:

- - snip - -

Oh I totally know I need a better cooler if I want proper cooling, I plan on buying the Arctic Freezer 34 eSports DUO when I got money, which also is what I use in my school build to cool a Ryzen 7 7700.

[Kanna]

2 minutes ago, TatamiMatt said:

Even if you have $15 to spare (and live in the US) this should be a decent upgrade over stock

https://www.newegg.com/p/13C-000Y-000F4?Item=9SIBFKMJJY9282

Anything is better than stock tbh, but if I actually go for upgrading I will go better directly, was mostly just seeing if anything could be done in my current situation. Also that cooler was not available in Sweden anyway (unless I use Swedish amazon)

[Agall]

52 minutes ago, Kanna said:

that's what I thought, so bad design that it wiggles ig? still doesn't fully explain it.

Oh I totally know I need a better cooler if I want proper cooling, I plan on buying the Arctic Freezer 34 eSports DUO when I got money, which also is what I use in my school build to cool a Ryzen 7 7700.

There's a bit of play in the mounting hardware, basically where the bolts attach to the aluminum heatsink. The tolerance on that is really loose, so it'll have a bit of play. I actually have a wraith stealth* and Intel stock cooler on my desk since I keep CPU boxes (and dead/retired CPUs) on my desk at work as desk ornaments, so I just verified that. I've also used the wraith prism in a few builds and there's play in the mount of it as well.

Edited February 8 by Agall
wrong stock cooler name

[Kanna]

11 minutes ago, Agall said:

There's a bit of play in the mounting hardware, basically where the bolts attach to the aluminum heatsink. The tolerance on that is really loose, so it'll have a bit of play. I actually have a wraith prism and Intel stock cooler on my desk since I keep CPU boxes (and dead/retired CPUs) on my desk at work as desk ornaments, so I just verified that. I've also used the wraith prism in a few builds and there's play in the mount of it as well.

It makes sense with how stock coolers are usually made to work just good enough, doesn't have to be all that optimal, which I also guess is the case, my friends fan probably is the lower speed due to the much better conditions the PC is in with a controlled AC room and probably more airflow through the case (mine is quite terrible)

[Agall]

10 minutes ago, Kanna said:

It makes sense with how stock coolers are usually made to work just good enough, doesn't have to be all that optimal, which I also guess is the case, my friends fan probably is the lower speed due to the much better conditions the PC is in with a controlled AC room and probably more airflow through the case (mine is quite terrible)

Yup, downdraft coolers like a stock cooler have their limitations. There's some DIY ducting you can do to mitigate that, like if you're able to force airflow to the fan with minimal circulation of hot air. If your case has a side intake, that would involve ducting that intake to the fan, otherwise, simply adding a circular duct might be enough to make it more likely to grab air from the front of the case and not recirculate its hot exhaust.

 

 

Something along these lines, hard to demonstrate without another angle. The goal being to force the air circulation fron an intake to the fan then prevent air exhausting below from being recirculated. The red line would be a short piece of cardboard, potentially obstructing that rear fan partially, or removing it all together and allowing the top fan to do so.

 

Wraith stealth's shroud is easily removeable, so it would be easy to pull that off and attach any DIY ducting like that and simply clip it back on.

[Kanna]

1 hour ago, Agall said:

Yup, downdraft coolers like a stock cooler have their limitations. There's some DIY ducting you can do to mitigate that, like if you're able to force airflow to the fan with minimal circulation of hot air. If your case has a side intake, that would involve ducting that intake to the fan, otherwise, simply adding a circular duct might be enough to make it more likely to grab air from the front of the case and not recirculate its hot exhaust.

 

 

Something along these lines, hard to demonstrate without another angle. The goal being to force the air circulation fron an intake to the fan then prevent air exhausting below from being recirculated. The red line would be a short piece of cardboard, potentially obstructing that rear fan partially, or removing it all together and allowing the top fan to do so.

 

Wraith stealth's shroud is easily removeable, so it would be easy to pull that off and attach any DIY ducting like that and simply clip it back on.

Yeah the work needed to make these airflow effective is usually not worth it, especially with how they have their heatsink design in a way where it's just not optimal, could be more worth if it was for example a good but low profile cooler for example in a server mounted case, run a low profile noctua for my server I have in school for some various stuff

[Agall]

16 minutes ago, Kanna said:

Yeah the work needed to make these airflow effective is usually not worth it, especially with how they have their heatsink design in a way where it's just not optimal, could be more worth if it was for example a good but low profile cooler for example in a server mounted case, run a low profile noctua for my server I have in school for some various stuff

It can be done with heavy paper or cardboard and duct tape, so it can be low effort and budget friendly. Keep in mind that this is for downdraft style coolers, tower coolers wouldn't need anything close to this sort of ducting to function properly. Its something OEM systems have done for years with plastic cowling. I imagine the low profile Noctua you're referring to is something like the U9S which is a tower cooler and not a downdraft, I have a 7950x server in a U2 chasis with one myself. Downdraft coolers in that use case would be a poor choice.

[Kanna]

22 minutes ago, Agall said:

It can be done with heavy paper or cardboard and duct tape, so it can be low effort and budget friendly. Keep in mind that this is for downdraft style coolers, tower coolers wouldn't need anything close to this sort of ducting to function properly. Its something OEM systems have done for years with plastic cowling. I imagine the low profile Noctua you're referring to is something like the U9S which is a tower cooler and not a downdraft, I have a 7950x server in a U2 chasis with one myself. Downdraft coolers in that use case would be a poor choice.

Nope it's a Noctua NH-L9i because it's the best the school had that fit, but then it cools enough even with the light workload I put on the server. If it were something I used personally I would find some cooler that is fitting the odd height limits.

[Agall]

3 minutes ago, Kanna said:

Nope it's a Noctua NH-L9i because it's the best the school had that fit, but then it cools enough even with the light workload I put on the server. If it were something I used personally I would find some cooler that is fitting the odd height limits.

Its a 1U server then I'm guessing to require a low profile cooler like that?

 

Unrelated, that gives me an idea for if I need to make a 1U server, use Noctua's 65mm cooler without an attached fan and build cowling to use small high velocity fans to simulate most OEM server heatsinks.

[Kanna]

10 minutes ago, Agall said:

Its a 1U server then I'm guessing to require a low profile cooler like that?

 

Unrelated, that gives me an idea for if I need to make a 1U server, use Noctua's 65mm cooler without an attached fan and build cowling to use small high velocity fans to simulate most OEM server heatsinks.

it's actually a more standardized and similar to a normal PC case, except it's a bit slimmer than an optical drive would be, so the slots for HDDs for the cases that have them it goes out to the edges, and not much extra beyond a normal PCIe back cover