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Modular.

AlienALX
Update 11 - "I'm not perfect, but I'm perfect for you".
 
OK. So after yesterday's attempt I was feeling really down. Mostly because I am a noisy bugger and I don't mind noise. Problem is the machine was beyond noisy. And I mean, so loud I did not want to operate it. Which left me feeling gutted, and almost had me ditch the project. Even at home that would have been worse than my 15" sub.
 
I figured I would give something a try. So, I grabbed the enormous rubber desk mat that came with my desk (bit too young for me) folded it up and put the machine on that. Bliss. Seriously, I ended up turning off the hoover because it was twice as loud as the machine.
 
So, with my confidence restored a little I designed the IO for the water cooling unit.
 
G5bY8DG.png
 
OK, so what is going on there? well, there is a 25mm carve. Like, 2mm deep. I wouldn't have done that and it made the cut take 30 mins, but the through fittings are not deep enough to be able to be done up on 5mm acryl. So, I got fancy, and carved them in 2mm.
 
I have also changed the settings. Instead of trying to go all the way through and continually hitting the spoil board (which DOES make noise because its on an alu bed) I cut at 4.8mm deep.
 
I did have a serious issue. For some reason the software doesn't understand my dust shoe, and it was refusing to go anywhere near the acrylic. In future I am just going to tell it I don't have one. So I did mess up at first and wrecked a 20mm square in the bottom right corner. That's OK, as I just jogged the machine over past it, and it probably would have ended up as waste any way, being so small.
 
q9XJZHh.png
 
So, that is a 1.4mm burr in action. Might be a burr, but holy crap it's doing amazingly well !
 
After 30 mins.
 
ZgDwhdF.png
 
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Success. I just need to crack out my Dremel sanding barrel bit as I am afraid of cracking the 3mm area. Will do that in a bit, and possibly get that fitted into the cooling box a bit later.
 
Oh BTW. I think what I cut last night was extruded, 'cause it didn't look like sherbet to me !

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11.5. "Very Nice 'Arry, wossit for?"

 

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3gOUZLQ.png

 

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Update 12 - "Hmm, I am pretty sure it's not supposed to do that !"

 

OK so today's task was to finish drawing the reservoir and pump mounting brackets. Be nice, I am new to this. Besides, these are functional items not meant to be pretty.

 

I cut the reservoir one with no issues. I had increased the feed rate and cut depth though. Problem is the bed is not level (I don't even have a level, let alone a level surface) and it shows. When it goes to the right it cuts deeper. This, combined with my faster feed rate *and* deeper cut depth *and* the fact I should have used more tape to stick it down resulted in an all out failure on the pump mount.

 

Basically it cut the four holes for mounting, then went to the square in the centre. It cut that out completely, then it flipped up and got stuck on the spindle where there are no cutting teeth. When I freed it? it obviously lost its bearings and just started yamming through the acrylic willy nilly so I hit the stop button.

 

Reverted back to previous settings, but reduced the cut depth too much and thus when I snapped it out it left the edges a little ragged. TBH by this stage I was done caring, I just wanted my mounts.

 

m0xW5wr.png

 

A short while later.

 

R3vLa71.png

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Moving forward.

 

Not doing any machining today. To all forums, I decided to buy an A4 069 opal (same as what I am milling in 5mm) in 3mm to put under the cut pieces. The bit absolutely adores turning acrylic into sherbet, but not hitting the MDF. It hates that, and has burn marks on it. So I can and will cut the power socket for the cooling box, but will then wait until the A4 comes in to line the spoil board with.

 

I also finished up the design of the rear panel.

 

QhqQDyi.png

 

And ordered some supplies. Lots of M2 buttons in gold.

 

VuzYQw9.jpg

 

I am going to be using plastic weld for the inner structure, but I want the front and sides to be removable. This way if I end up with a longer GPU in there (hint, I won't, but never say never....) I can take the front off and possibly extend the front. What I don't have is an M2 tap, so I will have to get one.

 

That is all for the future though, and the only place to get them is China, so yeah. That could have to wait until after Xmas. I also got this. This should be UK, and I will need this sooner for the front panel.

 

9OAjRhf.jpg

 

I checked my stash and they are all either latching, or ano red. I think gold goes with white perfectly. Oh and these are arriving in a hour or so from Amazon, too.

 

33Djdhn.jpg

 

Will need those.

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Update 13 - "Unlucky for me".

 

So this evening I figured I would plumb the cooling box. "Easy, ten minute job!". Not.

 

It was an absolute nightmare. Mostly because it was completely unorthodox and I have never done a loop that needs to be open before. Ten minutes turned into three hours, and having to take that annoying hex res apart five times to keep changing the outlets. I also had to reposition the pump because it was so close to the "out" plate on the rear that there was no way I could get a tube on it.

 

Got there eventually, but have used nearly all of my fittings. Oh well, that gives me an excuse to buy all new ones for the modular box.

 

3kAuS02.png

 

And yes, it is extremely convoluted. Sadly that was just how it had to be. Thankfully even though the res to pump goes uphill I can prime the pump by sucking the out tube on the back.

 

p4IWjX1.png

 

Now that would have been a milestone achieved. Sadly the fans run into the ridiculously large pump top. So, I need to mill some spacers out of some 5mm scrap before I can put those back. Will do that tomorrow.

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Just a couple of notes. So the back plate was delivered two weeks late to my flat today.
 
WHjbOQQ.png
 
That is on a public road. So, I am 99% sure it will not be there when I return. Royal Mail are assholes.
 
I also managed to find 10/8 fittings. Bitspower, too.
 
4TDia6j.png
 
For £3.70 each. So I ordered 10. I have some chrome BP rotaries, but will get some more. So the modular box should be all bling. I would have gone with fatter ones and larger hose, but I already had the hose and it is going to be tight as designed, let alone adding 5mm here and there.

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Update 14 - "Unforeseen Circumstances"

 

Tonight I made my first somewhat major mistake. I came up with a really good idea for the spoil board. IE, cover it in double sided masking tape, then put on a cardboard sheet, then put on more tape.

 

This was the best idea I have had yet. Also, because this tape is so incredible when I messed up it saved me. Sort of, it saved me another 30 mins and a crap load more tape.

OK, so for tonight's hi jinx I decided to go balls out and cut the hardest part of all. The back. It is the hardest because it is the only piece that is dimension critical. It is also pushing the bed to the limit. And that was why I made a mistake. Any way, what I was cutting and milling.

 

THNIzav.png

 

Now this is where I went wrong. For some reason I got blinded by the measurements on the board (spoil board) and thought I should start where the numbers start. DON'T. This had the whole piece 1cm too high and of course the bed can't cut that far. So, what you see in the next picture is a whole hour wasted, then another 1 hour and 20 mins (I reduced the depth of the lettering as it was taking the longest.

 

lBmY0C4.png

 

If you look up top you can see where I went wrong. It got to the top of the writing, maxed out before even starting the hole for the IO which then messed up everything after. Thankfully I realised my error and stopped the machine before I wasted any more time and materials. I wasted 1/4 of a sheet, £2. I was far more miffed about the time I wasted.

 

It doesn't look fantastic yet as I am not removing the peel off protection yet. I still have to cut it to the correct height, so that is staying on for now. But it is done.

 

I also snapped my first bit. I changed it to a 1.2mm bit before I began and when I started round 2 (with the material in the correct position on the bed) I got annoyed and impatient setting the depth. It was too deep, and it quickly snapped becoming lodged in the acrylic. IO tried to pull it out and it snapped twice more, so I drilled it out. Because I switched to a larger bit it then removed all of that damage.

 

But note to self, 1.2mm bits are really too thin. I would have used the 1.4, but I was paranoid about it being dull after being dragged through MDF. So, I used a 1.6mm which was perfect any way.

 

I also forgot to say I ordered these.

 

eo7OQL4.jpg

 

I've used them before. They are anodized billet spacers people use for drift racing (on the bonnet,  or hood to our colonial cousins). The great part is they are cheap AF (about $5) and come with all of the hardware you need whilst looking fantastic.

 

Update 14.5 "That sucks".

 

Firstly the PSU tray I modelled was completely wrong. One hole lined up, so I had to work it to make the PSU fit.

 

It then dawned on me that I don't have the bed height to cut what I was wanting to, and that is why the IO is 5mm too low.

 

C2MEbA4.png

 

I am going to have to cut that bigger and try and cover it up.

 

Bed upgrade needed....

 


Actually no, bed upgrade not needed. I needed to leave 1cm sticking out of the bottom of the bed. So that is my fault.

Ugh. Might redo it tomorrow, we'll see.

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Update 15 - "Baby got back, and front".

 

OK so that cut finished beautifully. Yesterday I was in a bad place before I even started. You know? growling and swearing at things before I had even begun. Today I am much better, and it shows.

 

So, once the back was done I decided to do the front CNC work too. I am glad I didn't quit while I was ahead.

 

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Completed back.

 

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And front.

 

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Third time really is a charm.

 

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Update 15.5 - "Waste not want not".

 

I decided to use a piece I wasted yesterday to make the motherboard tray. It has a line or two carved in the back, but that will go up against the PSU any way.

 

cV33vtA.png

 

I originally intended to run that the full length of the case, and then carve cable holes through it. I don't want to spend a load more money for extra work though, so that is fine. Will drill and tap it later for the standoffs.

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Update 16 - "This is HUGE".

 

OK so after a quick edge scrape with a stanley knife the board tray was ready to be worked.

 

First I drilled and tapped in the board posts. Note they are tall, because of the NVME cooler and rear shroud.

 

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Frivolous? yes. Epeen satisfaction = 100%

 

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Ah yes, but does it fit?

 

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Like a glove.

 

CnUL1Xo.png

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Update 17 - "2AM PSU fun".

 

Hmm...

 

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Oh OK I see..

 

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Mmhmm.

 

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Gercha.

 

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And last night's bonus. We may have lost the Chicken Dinner 3 vs 1, but then this happened.

 

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Cheating is bad, MMkay?

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Update 17.5 - "Alien Ant Farm".

 

So last night my ears were ringing from the CNC. It's not that loud, but it seems to hit the annoying resonant frequency like a vacuum cleaner. IE, you can hear it for a couple of hours after it stops.

 

The fix was as the title - blasting Alien Ant Farm. Drown it out !

 

OK so for today's fun I started work on the GPU retention system. A totally convoluted over the top way of bolting on a GPU.

 

VyOO9vH.png

 

Note one edge is urinationed. This happened because I somehow didn't set the machine to carve that edge all the way out (its to do with layers, still getting my head around all that) but it will be sanded flush later at finishing when I have a sheet of alu oxide glued to a piece of glass.

 

X22skr2.png

 

FYP45KP.png

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Forum down, let's play ketchup.

 

Lil bonus. This will be my PSU side side panel.

 

VK44GHb.png

 

02 will be the big one. If you are a Radiohead fan that should make some sense.

 

Added an addition last night, more on that later.

 

Update 18 - "Brave And Stupid".

 

OK so I made another part earlier but the epoxy I used refused to set. So I will have to do it again, because its sticky and annoying. 

 

Instead I decided to do the big job, shortening the block for the back plate. And this almost turned out to be a £150 failure. It was fine until it got down below about 10mm, then it started screeching like Satan's hawks ffs. I am actually amazed it managed to get through it.

 

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But yeah, I shall say a prayer and be thankful tonight.

 

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Update 18.5 "Convolution".

 

Did you know that the mathematical convolution actually seems like it reads "Fug It"?

 

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So here is the GPU mounting system finished.

 

CHgDiXT.png

 

h24mshu.png

 

I filed the bottom latch straight, too.

 

693pBr6.png

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Update 19 - "A bit cheeky to taking the p**s"

 

So I finished the right side panel design last night. Looking at a screen I figured my spokes were "a bit cheeky". Turns out they were taking the p**s. Testament to this cheap machine I guess.

 

pUc5ZF2.png

 

The USBs are a bit too small. IDK why, might have carved on the wrong line. That's OK, that is what I bought the files for.

 

Last night I also decided I wanted a filter in there. Start looking at PC filters "£10!11" £20!2222" then realised my bits were all gold.

 

U9sqUUH.jpg

 

Brass fine mesh, £2.

 

Here is the block I wasted two hours making look like new.

 

lNQxPN3.png

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Update 20 - "BRING THE NOISE !!"

 

Cenedd (G) sent me some bits. Carbide posh ones, 3mm. They fit my machine, yay !

 

However had I known how loud they are I would not have used them. The edges are really clean, but man that noise was the worst it has made yet tbh.

 

5XZuJoo.png

 

I am taking a week off now. I will tinker with the back plate and block if the back plate wasn't stolen, but I am having a week break before Christmas.

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Update 21 - "Timing, a tick a tick a tick a tick, timing, A TOCK A TOCK etc".

 

So the constipated postal system finally took a small dump. Rabbit sized, but enough for me - the power socket up there ^

 

VotDu3j.png

 

Latching power switch.

 

7iyNDGV.png

 

And the cooling box is done.

 

cR5A8I3.png

 

SJQbFoe.png

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OK so now I am finally away from the machines and tools I can finalise the plans and designs.

 

Funny thing is when I found the cheap acrylic I remember saying to Gareth in email "Yeah it's opal white or yucky yellow". Thing is since then I have been thinking about adding a splash of colour so it doesn't look so sterile.

 

I have never done a build involving any yellow before. Besides, I wasted about half a sheet with two incorrect rear panels (don't worry I have salvaged about a third making stick downs and small pieces !) but yeah, when I went back and looked at the "yucky yellow" again I was sold.

 

MtU7dVk.png

 

The entire case will be white, sans the top. I am going to do that in yellow. The top and bottom are a bit greedy, and need a whole A3. This is because they are 297 wide (fine) but obviously have 10mm of acrylic inside them (the front and back thickness) so the final cut size is 307. Which no standard size includes.

 

Of course it won't be plain. I love the crying minotaur from Kid Am Nesia, so that will be going on there using Gareth's posh 0.8mm endmill. I need a new collet for it, but I will have those long before the acrylic arrives.

 

x3z7Qbk.png

 

I will also be using yellow coolant, but in dye form. IE - get the rig filled, burped and leak tested and then add it in after that.

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Just a quickie before my "Before Christmas" break begins.

 

I was pleased to find the back plate was indeed pushed all of the way through the letter box and was waiting for me at the doorway to my flat.

 

It is thick. Like, at least 2mm thick. So I *think* with some precision work I can tap straight into it. Will probably mean I need to shave the bolts down though. I think M4 will be best.

Two concerns. The first is irritating. Apparently as pointed out on LTT the pads rot and melt. Well they didn't give me any at all. At least they tell you they are all 3mm, though /rolls eyes. Those will cost more than the back plate FFS.

 

Secondly the screw holes are weird. like AC have their own holes. So I will need to mod it a bit. Other than that? very pleased. And workable, I like workable.

 

PeP9ODu.png

 

yMPUfGi.png

 

One thing? the whole thing is going to be DARN heavy. So, I will need to make some supports to hold it all the way along the case.

 

Not a problem when you have lots of spare 5mm and a CNC 😄

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I am now planning final things needed. The 60mm cutting discs are too big, and keep stopping as my tool does not have the torque needed. So I ordered vented 30mm ones.

 

gG5ZZIo.jpg

 

I am not going to plastic weld it. I was, but I just dread losing a two hour panel. So I got super glue with activator spray.

 

MUdA8U0.jpg

 

To hold the pieces together I have these from when I made my sub cabinet.

 

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They are amazing tbh.

 

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I also need these for various other jobs. I had some before, but alas I melted them bending acrylic lol.

 

80890Hd.jpg

 

More of the cheap burrs. These cost less than £1 each and are amazing.

 

oTNXNBR.jpg

 

A collet set to take the 4mm bit Gareth sent (a proper carbide titanium coated bit)

 

wEfFGsJ.jpg

 

I shall be using that to do the crying minotaur, as it is very fine. It will take over 3 hours 😮 I will be carving vents at the hot end, but that will be a 1.6mm bit so will be 30 mins tops.

 

474Pjkf.jpg

 

I will be gluing that to a glass chopping board so I can get rid of my cut marks.

 

Lastly for now I bought 10 of these.

 

ewxtZap.jpg

 

These are to mount the back cooling block. However you will note that I have chosen 10mm. And it is around 15mm thick, with the 12.4 plastic and metal under it (more than 15 tbh).

 

I am going to pocket the holes so they go down 6-7mm. I need to do accurate measuring, as these need to protrude no more than about 2.5mm out of the bottom. I could have gotten really long ones and cut them down, but I did not want them at the same height as the actual ones holding in the water. All it would take is one wrong bolt undone and you have coolant everywhere.

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Right, final order in. I should now have ordered everything I need to order !

 

bsehOLs.png

 

And the final panel design, the left side (where the GPU and hardware is). I wasn't going to do much here, then I had an idea. Thom Yorke's signature (after hours of sorting in Photoshop) and some vents.

 

Now bear in mind I have only put these on one work piece to show. The sig will take over an hour, and so will the vents, and they use different bits. So they are currently on two different work sheets and the sig will be done first, bit change, then start the vents.

 

IoYPRtB.png

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I forgot one thing....

 

Really, you don't think I was going to leave the cables green after all that, did you?

 

Thing is I am tired of modding cables. Not making them, or putting paracord on them, but modding old cables. It's a lot of salvage work, and it never looks great at the end.

So, I finally caved and bought the tools I need.

 

5O5kJvq.png

 

As well as 50ft of yellow wire.

 

ZBMOV0K.png

 

And 50ft of paracord.

 

GajFird.png

 

Do note, I am not doing them all. Only the green ones. The black ones shall stay that way.

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Update 22 - Two little ducks.

 

So I had about an hour of sorting through lots of parcels when I got here. Still missing small pieces, but the acrylic for the top is here.


So I had two designs for the left side panel. First Thom Yorke's sig. For this I switched to a 4mm collet, and a 0.8mm carbide bit. I also slowed the machine down drastically.

 

BOOzuAs.png

 

That took about 50 minutes, but it was so quiet I could actually hear the Arduino beeping code at it. A much more pleasant pursuit, that is for sure, and I am glad 'cause the next lot will take about 4 hours. I then moved over to this.

 

2feUvGa.png

 

Which was drawn by Thom and is part of the RH website. That took about 30 mins, and now we have a left panel.

 

iYvav6W.png

 

I had ordered some 3mm tint acrylic, then I had the idea of going with yellow instead. So now both pieces are on the way, yes.

 

bxBk5Ou.jpg

 

I will do the top yellow panel tomorrow.

 

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Update 22.5 - I hate copper more than I hate aluminium !

 

So this was going to be one of those easy old jobs. Just drill 7 holes and back counter them. How hard can it be?

 

Really, really hard. The bit just didn't want to go through, it made horrid crunching and cracking sounds and I had to put far more force on it than I was happy with.

 

Now this was supposed to be drilled to just over 4mm, and I was going to use M4 bolts. The thing is it was so erratic and unpredictable that I know I would have ruined it. So, I accepted my 3.2mm holes in the copper, then back countered them and I will be using M3.

 

Meaning I just had to order more bolts. Annoying.

 

M3 16mm. Probably too long, meaning I will have to file them down. Now you can see why I stopped at 7. Besides, the only place I didn't drill any was in the bottom (note it will live upside down as you see it).

 

4a6W5lf.png

 

It can now F off. I will clean it, but I am stopping there. Far too stressful.

 

Edit. OK so I had an idea. I could not gauge the depth of the countersink. It was either one depth, or they are all different. I was annoyed, as I thought I would need to cut the bolts to length custom. 

 

Jx439WT.jpg

 

Instead I can just put washers in the counter holes until the bolts poke through the correct amount.

 

rf0xOkw.jpg

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Update 23 - Yellow Snow.

 

So I got up today and had received a game from Gareth. Nice one dude. In the message it said

 

"Happy Christmas dude. Stop milling your own snow .. it's gonna be a nightmare to clean up! 😜 "

 

Ah mr G, I spend about an hour after every session hoovering. And besides, today was the time to make yellow snow !

 

This took over four hours. Just as the software said it would. I hate it for being right tbh.

 

jYgKmqC.png

 

So whilst it was working away I decided to cut the wire to length.

 

SEusNnf.png

 

Aaaaand... I don't have enough LMAO. FFS. Oh well, need more. After four hours and ten minutes I had lots of yellow snow.

 

XOKkbJu.png

 

I then cleaned all of that up, re-positioned the piece, changed the bit and loaded in the last cut on a panel. I was going to put boring old vents up here (as it's above all the hot bits) but I found a cracking design again on RH's website. They must have known someone was going to machine this seriously.

 

Q3hqpJt.png

 

After a final pant crapping 35 minutes...

 

AHzXOXT.png

 

Pant crapping because I knew karma desperately wanted to ruin it for me after nearly 5 hours. The top D flipped and nearly jammed the cutter. Oops.

I will take that, merry Christmas all !

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addendum

 

I knew I would forget something, so here is the USB sockets finished. For this I drilled in about 3mm, tapped a start, then super glued and activator the posts after cutting the threads down.

 

kIlGdOz.png

 

mFsEq1K.png

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