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AlienALX

Update 24 - "Give it a little tappy, tap tap taperoo"

 

Today I finished the holes for the feet. First thing I grabbed was my tap set.

 

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A while later...

 

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I have also marked out all of the panels for cutting now. That should commence later in the week.

 

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If any one was wondering where I got those cheap yet lovely case feet? they are not case feet. They are "Civic 25mm Universal Aluminium Bonnet Billet Spacers Risers + Extended M6 Bolts"

 

So they are meant for cars.

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Update 25 - "R&D".

 

There are still quite a few unknowns. Things that I could not measure or plan until certain things were together. Tonight I cut the top to size and the bottom. My rotary tool is crap, and it took me a lot of filing. I need to look into something else before I ruin a panel tbh, but they both ended up OK.

 

So, with the bottom cut to size I could start fitting things up to get the final picture of parts I need to make. The first one of which is a couple of GPU supports, because it is already hellaheavy and it doesn't have the second block on yet.

 

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So a couple of things noted. Yeah, that is how I am going to run that pump. For a couple of reasons. I could probably get it better using straight rotaries, but sadly no one makes any that don't leak. No one. Secondly I actually want it hanging on the hoses like that, because it saves me having to try and find a way to fix it down somehow and then live with the whirring going all the way through the entire rig. Hanging on hose like that suspends it and will cushion the vibration. They don't make an awful lot of accessories for those pumps, so that is ideal.

 

What I wanted though was the height between the bottom of the block and the floor of the case. Which I now have, so the first job when I get back on Friday will be machining out three supports to hold the seriously heavy GPU.

 

I have now put too many hours into the back plate, how to mount it and so on. I came up with a great way, but now my thermal pad is too thick. So I have ordered another one, which I am hoping ends the serious ball ache that it has been.

 

And going back to the GPU? I now have my answers. Firstly when I took the BP block off a few nights ago something dawned on me. It didn't have enough thermal paste on, because I left that all at home and all I had was some Arctic Ceramique which is a pain at the best of times. It's very hard and even harder to spread, especially when you don't have enough. I was getting annoyed at it, so I must have YOLOd it a bit. Hence the high core temps. I have now put on plenty of new paste. But aye, looking back at the spread pattern it was terrible at best.

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Bonus footage.

 

Last night I learned that Yellow 229 is transparent.

 

bgVc8fh.png

 

I wasn't going to fit a single LED, but I now have to.

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Update 26 - "Anyone can play guitar".

 

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So, today's mini mission was the GPU supports that I spent too long designing. Thom Yorke plays a telecaster, so telecaster it was.

 

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Only I loaded the acrylic like this.

 

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Few more minutes needed in filing, as I soon learned just how little super glue is needed after sticking one to my fingers.

 

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The mythical postman actually showed up with some stuff I have been waiting nearly a month for, too. Including the 100 M2 bolts I bought.

 

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And the B side of today, the PSU side/vent thingermebob.
 
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Brass mesh finer than human hair, superglue, activator and white tape.
 
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Could swear I posted this, seems not.

 

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That was that modded. I super glued on 2.5mm nuts. I then had to change the 3mm pads for 2.5.

 

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It is held on by 6 8mm M 2.5 because Bitspower could not use M2 like every one else lol.

 

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0.5mm pads were needed for the VRAM step, and 1mm for the core part. I then put thermal paste down the highest points (the two sides) and.

 

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I present the double ender GPU.

 

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The only thing scaring me was it made a sickening crack as I tightened up the screws holding the back plate on. I put this down to it catching the hole in the PCB, then pulling home, but it was bothering me. "But I don't have a way to test it......" I lied. I do have a way to test it.

 

tKQhRfP.jpg

 

*wipes sweat from brow*

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Update 28 "There are two colours in my head"

 

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Update 29 "What was that you tried to say?"

 

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Update 30 "This is why I don't like Alphacool".

 

Why does everything of theirs seem to just be janky rubbish? So I fitted the GPU and stuck down the supports.

 

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And it was all going really well until I picked up the Alphacool pump and two wires fell off.

 

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"OK whatever, this has happened before just solder them back on".

 

Only it's close to impossible because not only did they put hot snot all over the solder points in some sort of desperate attempt for this not to happen but they then went ahead and plastic welded the bottom on so you can't get it off for access.

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OK quick update. Machine is running active service. I "fixed" the pump. I am not proud of this at all. It is a common problem, and usually involves ripping the back off. This isn't mine or my pic.

 

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You can see how it is welded to the middle, and the pile of brittle yellow glue they put over it to the left. Mine looked just like that. Thing is I did not want to get that rough with it. So, I cut the casing back and then tried to solder the wires back. Problem is I am approaching 50 and my eyes are done. So it was incredibly fiddly. As I was soldering the ground pad ripped up, but hung on for dear life. Once I got the other two back on I literally encased it in superglue and then sprayed on a lot of activator. So it is all Han Solo now, and if it goes again it is game over.

 

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The solid white stuff all over the top is liquid electrical tape, and the white haze is from the activator. Which mostly cleans off with alcohol. I machined a back for it earlier, but used regular slow setting glue so that is clamped up now and I will get a pic later.

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Update 31 - "Yesterday I woke up sucking a lemon".

 

So yesterday I did some measuring and realised how badly off the top was. So I created a 1mm pocket line in Easel and used the machine to sort it. Now I can't complain too much because it seemed to work really well.

 

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Unfortunately that was where yesterday's good points all ended. I then attempted to cut the front and this happened.

 

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The 1mm bit jammed completely but did not snap. 

 

IDK where my head was, but the bit ended up in the same place. Oh OK so I do know where my head was I am gutted my uncle is dying and I couldn't get my head out of that space and into this one. So I tossed it aside thinking it was done for, and I would have to buy more acrylic/make a new one. Whatever.

 

The pump is now repaired and the very slow setting glue is setting.

 

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The mosquito netting you see there was purchased about a week back and arrived today. That will become the top filter for the case. Not that it overly needs one, as there are no fans in that part, but simply because I don't want crap falling in through the holes.

 

I went to see my uncle today. It was all very sad, but we did get  a laugh at the end. I won't go into that, but I think it did him and all of us some good. My aunt said it is the first time he has laughed since being told he was terminal, so hey at least I was of some use.

 

I came back in a better frame of mind, and decided to make lemonade out of yesterday's lemons. I remembered the last RH album I bought was "OK Computer" on vinyl, but remember finding out that the one you should buy is the "OKNOTOK" version, as it is three records and they are 180g vinyl.

 

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Which just about sums up my mood right now, and looks rather pleasant.

 

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That edge does still need to be cut, but my rotary tool is absolutely bloody awful so I will wait now until the one Gareth sent arrives. Later today I will solder up the power button and the paracord came so I will sort that and the power LED together and braid them both up in the yellow reflective.

 

Happy New Year all.

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Update 32 - "Check out my ringhole...s".

 

Pervert. Of course I mean these ringholes.

 

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Which are of course a really convoluted way to hold an LED.

Talking of which. Bit of fine work, some soldering and braiding and this part is done.

 

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The loop is now complete.

 

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But was a total sacrifice of my sanity.

 

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Ever tried holding a nearly 5 kilo GPU one handed whilst trying to do a loop with the other? thought not.

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Update 33 "No Surprises".

 

Nothing goes unnoticed. Like how when I drilled and countered into the GPU to mount it to the back plate I hit the LED channel. I knew that was going to happen. It was just a casualty of war.

 

As such I knew I was always going to make a piece to go over it any way. As the bottom has now become the top.

 

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And a handshake of carbon monoxide.

 

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It took a while. I now have one decorative piece left to make, but it needs changing up a bit so that it doesn't take 3 hours. It's a bit fine, so needs the text fattening up a bit so that it can be done faster.

 

I also need to cut many more support braces (triangles) out of white.

And yes, those green marks will be gone. I have set aside a few days for finishing work.

 

Update 34 "This only took three and a half hours"

 

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PSU badge is done.

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Update 35 - "My Iron Lung".

 

So there was no more putting it off. Weather is bright but it is incredibly damp out there, but I was tired of thinking about it. So I started work on the PSU.

 

First job was to sand it all very well to give it a key. Now the etch should help, but yeah if it falls off when I am assembling it I won't have to blame myself I can just gleefully blame the paint.

 

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I waited for it to off gas for as long as I dared and then brought it in. It is now baking in front of the radiator.

 

Now I almost shot primer over the halo. However, again my conscience was there to nag me. "Don't leave the open wire channel as you don't have wires coming out, and don't leave the Phanteks logos on the ends either."

 

Sigh.

 

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You can see who won.

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Update 35.5 "A total waste of time".

 

OK so TIL that JB quick will still very likely take 24 hours to harden as it can. When I say hard I mean rock hard. Whilst most people will be familiar with it for bodging things that you shouldn't bodge I have found it to make by far the best method of filling metal.

 

As mentioned when the sun is out I am beating my body to death doing bike restorations. And, many of them arrive to me like this.

 

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See it? bottom left. That's bondo, and you may as well put bubblegum in there. So I tend to do it properly.

 

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Because after 24 hours it turns to rock. Sanding it is almost a waste of time, you must bust out the files. Oh and in case you were wondering after about two weeks it ends up like this.

 

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So this is why I use JB. Now usually you leave it for about 12 hours, then you can do this.

 

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Or rather, carve at it with a blade. Because once it turns into almost metal filing it is bloody hard work. I do have a pin hole, but then no one ever got away with one coat of filler any way unless they tend to like divots.

 

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So once it has cured fully I will go at it again. I also carved down the edges too.

 

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And here are a lot of wires.

 

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Update 36 - "Yawn".

 

So the weather is total poo. Like, not even 30 mins to dash outside and put some yellow base coat down ffs.

 

So earlier I filed out the frame.

 

EOlBUHc.png

 

But can't put primer on. I then cut a dust frame out of "3mm" and learned that when they say 3mm it is more like 3.5-4mm. So, to save me another hour of filing next time I am goinig to vernier the bloody thing.

 

I then found out it is too big, as the side needs to butt up against it. FFS. So I need to machine one side down by about 4mm.

 

ppYAsn1.png

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Update 37 - More PSU fun.

 

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Update 39 - "Some wet sanding required".

 

Par for the course really. Bright colours are very chalky. Still, it doesn't need much.

 

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So, I got some more done. So for update 40 here goes....
 
The tile cutter is no good. The blade is far too thick and the bed isn't big enough. I will give that to my brother. Instead I went and got out my old 20mm diamond coated blade. I then used Gareth's Dremel until it literally stopped dead. The battery goes like instantly. So I put that blade in my cacky one and finished the cut.
 
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I need to machine more white supports. Will do that tomorrow. What I didn't say was that basically every front and rear join is getting a cover panel. But these will serve two functions. One, to get rid of any crap edges and saw marks but also to act as a channel for the top to drop into.
 
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Those are 20mm high by 297 wide. So the whole width of the case. 15mm will be joined to the front (top and bottom edges) with 5mm overhang (none on the fixed bottom obs 'cause it's already there). They read from My Iron Lung, top to  bottom (one verse).
 
I ordered an A4 for this about 6 days back. Was less than £5.
 

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Update 41 - "Yesterday sucked".

 

It was just going to be one of those days again. No matter what I did it was going to go crap.

 

So I cut the front, filed the edge and then attached it to the bottom and back. And as soon as the glue took the headaches began. You could not even move it an inch before joints started to break. Mostly the ones on the motherboard tray. I would glue them up, wait for it to set again after scraping all of the old glue off, then "pop" it would go again. At this point I realised I had no other option that to F around drilling and tapping tons to get the top on. And that went crap too. The bit was getting hot, and filling the holes with molten acrylic. So the ones I did get to tap are now too big for some reason. However, they do act as pins for the moment.

 

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I stopped there on the back.

 

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I also had *another* issue where not one of my 50 odd screwdriver fittings seem to fit those gold bolts I bought from China ffs. So not one of them is remotely tight or home.

However, it did allow me to pick the F-ing thing up without anything else snapping off, so there is that.

 

I then sulked after calling it all sorts of loud names, then came up with an idea. See, I did not order plastic weld because it was with the postal service. Which meant a month wait. I thought Superglue would work, lesson learned it doesn't and it is not strong enough. So, I have ordered some plastic weld now and the parts in the post before, namely these...

 

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Will be welded across the bottom at both ends. And screwed down with M3. For the top? I will weld them to the ends of the top, so when the top goes down they hold it there and then I will use M3 again to fasten the top on. So I can actually get a good cut and tap, and a good bite on the bolts. Because M2 is sweaty nut sack.

 

Once again, the day after (which is today) went killer. The bed upgrade and new spoil board arrived.

 

8zzcWoS.png

 

And all went well. The A4 yellow 5mm I ordered about two days back arrived, so it seems things are finally going back to normal now they all had Christmas off, and so did the transparent yellow for the window after nearly three F-ing weeks.

 

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Now let's go back to the PSU for a bit. The paint came out a lot better than I thought. Like I said, yesterday I was in a really foul mood. I now have *another* bloody cold and that means I can't see my uncle which I now consider to be extremely precious visits. As I don't know if I will get another one.

 

I ordered a A5 of 3M vinyl. Not that fake ass crap that every one sells for about 99p for an A4, but the REAL stuff. Because it is absolutely light years ahead of all of that rubbish that won't even stick.

 

I got out my old friend.

 

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The first modding tool I ever bought. And cut.

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As you can see I also found a use for that spoil board I bought only three weeks ago. "Let's not wreck any more dinner trays again".

 

So all was well that ends well.

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"Just for chits and giggles".

 

uCOKMvN.jpg

 

So today my wee Oreck stopped picking anything up. And that's a problem, as I love to work clean. Like, spotless clean.

 

Problem is I only have one bag left, and they are pretty expensive. About two quid a bag. And given all I had sucked into it was acrylic snow I decided to empty it out inside a rubbish bag.

 

I wonder how long you could walk down the street carrying that before you got arrested lol.

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Update 42 - "Yellow snow part 2, and today almost sucked as bad as two days ago".

 

So I got up and made some coffee. Made sure I had permission to make noise for two hours, then started applying tape to the spoil board. Only it was moving. After some head scratching I soon realised that the bolts they had given me were too long. The ones I got with the small spoil board were not long enough. FFS, here we go 😞

 

I dug out the washers I bought a while back and put two in each hole. Made sure that the bolts were not proud of the spoil board, they weren't. OK cool can we please carry on now?

 

Stuck the acrylic down and started running the job. Only once it got half way up the piece the thing was just cutting air. Cancelled it, and then realised that the bed was out of true. What I mean by this is not that the bed was not level. The whole machine is not level. What is critical, however, is that the cutting bit and spindle motor are as level with the cutting bed as is humanly possible. And mine? was badly out of whack. We are talking around 7mm disparity between the front of the bed and rear. Hence why when it got about half way down a 1.5mm cut was not even touching the material.

 

I thought about a whole ton of ways to fix this without having to take the entire machine apart again. However, I could not think of one. Nearly two hours in I finally realised I should shove some plastic shims between the spoil board and the metal machine bed. There must be someone up there in the sky, 'cause this fixed the problem completely.

 

Only issue now was that I was nearly 3 hours into the day with F all done. So I started the job, went out onto the landing for a pee and got "Is it nearly done?" from my annoyed mother. "No mother, it is not done it has just started".

 

I really thought today was just destined for the piss heap, but miraculously.

 

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I had gotten exactly what I asked for. The only ball pain in between that? was having to completely redesign the writing because the 1mm bit I had in there snapped during calibration with the new bed and I was then worrying that I could easily snap another one and totally ruin that piece of acrylic. So, I switched it to a 1.5, but then the text was too small.

 

I have one more job to do today. If you cast your mind back to this.

 

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Being the broken ice cut out at the bottom. It should have shards of broken ice in it like this.

 

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Unfortunately two were too small to even attempt to glue to the window acrylic, and two accidentally went up the vacuum cleaner. They were also too small to glue down properly, and thus I need to design them and cut them out of that 3M white vinyl and apply them as decals.

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Update 43 - "Murica"

 

F yeah.

 

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Bugger off, nasty sawn edges.

 

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At this point I realised I had not yet shown the finished and rather pretty side, so here it is.

 

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Update 44 - "A bit of Sunday carving".
 
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Update 45 - "End on a high".
 
So as of Tuesday morning I shall be taking a week off. And a week away back at my place to listen to some records and give my brain a rest. Until then.
 
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Update 46 - "Opportunity knocks".

 

Finally today I awoke to no rain and some actual sunshine.

 

It's cold, but with acrylic paints that matters ye not. So, I took it out and put down some silver flake with silver pearl.

 

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Which as I suspected really brought the yellow tone down. It also looks superb, so there is that.

 

And yes, I did actually totally forget about the Halo. However, in my forgetfulness I decided to paint that white, so today it got some etch.

 

UMNgGqw.png

 

The plastic weld also arrived, so I am now armed and dangerous. I might play with my ringholes later.

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Update whatever - "Playing with my ringholes".

 

OK so I machined these quite a while back now. I knew that if I attempted to even go near them with super glue the smoked window would frost over. So, I waited for the real stuff.

 

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Now you can see I actually read the instructions there ! and, I thought that maybe, finally, I would find a use for those brushes. Nope. That is the worst method ever. Time to get the pieces together it has evaporated. So, I took to my old method of "Shooting up".

 

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It works something like this.

 

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So, all I need to do now is finish drilling the 2mm deep pilot hole in the front to a size of my choice, then plastic weld it to the front panel.

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