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PC powers off during gaming, no warning

About a week ago when i was play testing a new Gundam game on steam when my PC powered off during play testing. 

At first i thought this was due to my drivers being out of date, so i went ahead and updated all of them. 

I didnt have anymore problems for several days, and now all of a sudden during my last 2 online games of overwatch my PC has powered off 75% of the way through the match. 

 

Im still running on windows 10, and even though my computer is dated now (made in 2014 with most components manufactured in 2012), i havent had an issue such as this until the last week. 

The dust has also been cleaned out of my case as of last week. 

I already intend to replace this computer, but it needs to last another 5ish months until the new 4000 series GPU's release. Im hoping to replace my setup in october as my own birthday present. 

 

How can i go about fixing the problem with my PC powering off without any warning during gaming?

Could this be a potential power supply problem?

My battery backup also recently went bad (purchased in 2015), so could this be due to inconsistent power delivery during heavy use?

Could this be caused by an outdated Bios?

 

My PC components:

Power supply: Rosewill Bronze series 1000 watt active PFC power supply
Memory: Hyper X Fury 16GB (2x8GB) 240 pin DDR3 SDRAM
CPU: AMD FX(tm) 8350 Eight Core Processor 4 GHz
Motherboard: ASUS M5A99FX PRO AM3+ AMD 990FX + SB 950 SATA 6BS/s
GPU: ASUS ROG GeForce Strix 1070 8GB GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0
Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler 280mm CW-9060027-WW

 

Thank you everyone in advance for any help. details.PNG.0dee86eefa2fab3f07b1cf23856d8e45.PNG

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Also, which PSU, how old and the motherboard?

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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7 minutes ago, 191x7 said:

Also, which PSU, how old and the motherboard?

Here are my components. I also edited the original post to show this as well. 

 

Power supply: Rosewill Bronze series 1000 watt active PFC power supply
Memory: Hyper X Fury 16GB (2x8GB) 240 pin DDR3 SDRAM
CPU: AMD FX(tm) 8350 Eight Core Processor 4 GHz
Motherboard: ASUS M5A99FX PRO AM3+ AMD 990FX + SB 950 SATA 6BS/s
GPU: ASUS ROG GeForce Strix 1070 8GB GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0
Cooler: Corsair Hydro Sries H115i Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler 280mm CW-9060027-WW

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13 minutes ago, GamerzZpot said:

How are your temps ?? that is the most likely cause of this issue .. cleaning dust and replacing the thermal paste might help. 

 

A little higher than normal. Averaging at 43 degrees Celsius while idle. 

I didnt think much of it as it wasnt much of a change from normal, but ill do a under load test now and see what its like during gaming. 

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11 minutes ago, Warblade said:

A little higher than normal. Averaging at 43 degrees Celsius while idle. 

I didnt think much of it as it wasnt much of a change from normal, but ill do a under load test now and see what its like during gaming. 

Just ran through a round of Overwatch. 

Temps seem fine, ranging from 37 C to 43 C with stuff running in the background. 

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10 year old PSU? Just a hunch but that could be the reason and you should probably replace it anyway .

 

 

(check for "mid-range" units)

 

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57 minutes ago, Warblade said:

Here are my components. I also edited the original post to show this as well. 

 

Power supply: Rosewill Bronze series 1000 watt active PFC power supply
Memory: Hyper X Fury 16GB (2x8GB) 240 pin DDR3 SDRAM
CPU: AMD FX(tm) 8350 Eight Core Processor 4 GHz
Motherboard: ASUS M5A99FX PRO AM3+ AMD 990FX + SB 950 SATA 6BS/s
GPU: ASUS ROG GeForce Strix 1070 8GB GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0
Cooler: Corsair Hydro Sries H115i Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler 280mm CW-9060027-WW

PSU 10 years old? Might be the cause.

How old is the CPU cooler? AIO-s tend to last for 3 to 5 years, then the pump dies.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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2 hours ago, Mark Kaine said:

10 year old PSU? Just a hunch but that could be the reason and you should probably replace it anyway .

 

 

(check for "mid-range" units)

 

I could understand that if it died no matter what i was doing. 

It however has only turned off during gaming sessions. Which leads me to think its a software issue. 

 

I do appreciate the ideas though. 

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1 hour ago, 191x7 said:

PSU 10 years old? Might be the cause.

How old is the CPU cooler? AIO-s tend to last for 3 to 5 years, then the pump dies.

I replaced the CPU cooler just under 4 years ago. (August 2nd, 2018)

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2 hours ago, Warblade said:

I could understand that if it died no matter what i was doing. 

It however has only turned off during gaming sessions. Which leads me to think its a software issue. 

 

I do appreciate the ideas though. 

Capacitors age. Other components too. 10 years is a lot.

M.S.C.E. (M.Sc. Computer Engineering), IT specialist in a hospital, 30+ years of gaming, 20+ years of computer enthusiasm, Geek, Trekkie, anime fan

  • Main PC: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X3D - EK AIO 360 D-RGB - Arctic Cooling MX-4 - Asus Prime X570-P - 4x8GB DDR4 3200 HyperX Fury CL16 - Sapphire AMD Radeon 6950XT Nitro+ - 1TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 2TB Kingston Fury Renegade - 512GB ADATA SU800 - 960GB Kingston A400 - Seasonic PX-850 850W  - custom black ATX and EPS cables - Fractal Design Define R5 Blackout - Windows 11 x64 23H2 - 3 Arctic Cooling P14 PWM PST - 5 Arctic Cooling P12 PWM PST
  • Peripherals: LG 32GK650F - Dell P2319h - Logitech G Pro X Superlight with Tiger Ice - HyperX Alloy Origins Core (TKL) - EndGame Gear MPC890 - Genius HF 1250B - Akliam PD4 - Sennheiser HD 560s - Simgot EM6L - Truthear Zero - QKZ x HBB - 7Hz Salnotes Zero - Logitech C270 - Behringer PS400 - BM700  - Colormunki Smile - Speedlink Torid - Jysk Stenderup - LG 24x External DVD writer - Konig smart card reader
  • Laptop: Acer E5–575G-386R 15.6" 1080p (i3 6100U + 12GB DDR4 (4GB+8GB) + GeForce 940MX + 256GB nVME) Win 10 Pro x64 22H2 - Logitech G305 + AAA Lithium battery
  • Networking: Asus TUF Gaming AX6000 - Arcadyan ISP router - 35/5 Mbps vDSL
  • TV and gadgets: TCL 50EP680 50" 4K LED + Sharp HT-SB100 75W RMS soundbar - Samsung Galaxy Tab A8 10.1" - OnePlus 9 256GB - Olymous Cameda C-160 - GameBoy Color 
  • Streaming/Server/Storage PC: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 - LC-Power LC-CC-120 - MSI B450 Tomahawk Max - 2x4GB ADATA 2666 DDR4 - 120GB Kingston V300 - Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB - Toshiba DT01ACA200 2TB - 2x WD Green 2TB - Sapphire Pulse AMD Radeon R9 380X - 550W EVGA G3 SuperNova - Chieftec Giga DF-01B - White Shark Spartan X keyboard - Roccat Kone Pure Military Desert strike - Logitech S-220 - Philips 226L
  • Livingroom PC (dad uses): AMD FX 8300 - Arctic Freezer 64 - Asus M5A97 R2.0 Evo - 2x4GB DDR3 1833 Kingston - MSI Radeon HD 7770 1GB OC - 120GB Adata SSD - 500W Fractal Design Essence - DVD-RW - Samsung SM 2253BW - Logitech G710+ - wireless vertical mouse - MS 2.0 speakers
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You can try running a stress test to see if  it happens faster when pegged at 100%.  Things operate differently depending on temperature range so it could bee that your PSU can handle the demand while its cool but under load a soon to fail component in the PSU might not be able to keep up with power demands after it warms up.  If you arent confident in your hardware it could push to a failure though since it is a "stress test".

You could also try FPS caps to keep the power draw lower and help prevent spikes to help with stability until you upgrade.

Everything I've learned is from Google.

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