Custom loop beginner advice

[kazumi_mikuzi_x]

So I've recently built a custom loop, in which I'm cooling my gpu then cpu with an EKWB kit from their configurator with a 360mm rad, amd ryzen edition block, zotac trinity 3080/3090 block and connected to either motherboard headers or the provided asus fan hub.

 

I'm wondering how I'd be able to control things like pump speed, but I'm also looking for any advice that long term custom loop enthusiasts have for anything extra to purchase or change. Currently I'm looking into right angle connectors and a water temp sensor as well as a drain valve to add on.

 

Main specs are as follows:

AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 

Zotac Trinity RTX 3090

Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3200MHz 

ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Extreme 

EK 360mm PE

3x EK Vardar fans

10/12mm soft tubing

Ek blood red coolant (I know this will need cleaning sooner)

ThermalTake Core V71* (standard case not pc edition) 

* Soon to be upgraded to a TT Tower 900 (unless someone can suggest a better case with built-in res support)

 

 

EK-QUANTUM-KINETIC TBE 200 D5 PWM D-RGB pump/res

EK-QUANTUM VELOCITY cpu block

EK-Quantum Vector Trinity RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB

 

Edit: added image and final specs

 

 

[RONOTHAN##]

26 minutes ago, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

I'm wondering how I'd be able to control things like pump speed

It will depend on the pump, but there's 3 different possibilities: you can't, there's a variable switch on the bottom of the pump, or it's adjusted like a fan through the PWM header. I'm pretty sure all of EK's pumps currently made are the 3rd option, but don't know for certain and don't feel like going through their entire catalog to check. 

 

32 minutes ago, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

looking for any advice that long term custom loop enthusiasts have for anything extra to purchase or change.

Most of those extras are either snake oil or just for aesthetic reasons. Only real exception is a drain valve, since they are very convenient to use compared to dumping a reservoir. 

 

right angle connectors can be useful for getting certain bends to work and look better, but I've built loops without them, and it's not really worth spending money to add them unless you really hate the look without them. Water temp sensors, on the other hand, are next to useless. The only thing they're useful for is diagnosing if your blocks aren't mounted properly or if you just don't have enough rad capacity for your system. That is it. Even then, you can usually figure it out with just your components temp sensors, the temps that actually matter. The only way I'd add one to my loop is if I got it for free, and even then its 50/50 whether or not I'd even bother with the effort to add it. Flow indicators can be something nice to have and give you a visual indicator if something is going wrong, but again, you can tell that by the components temp sensors and is just adding unnecessary O-rings to the loop. 

 

44 minutes ago, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

Ek blood red coolant (I know this will need cleaning sooner)

It's not that it will really need cleaning sooner, it's more you'll never be able to clean it out. Even with the best loop prep and cleaning kits out there, there will always be traces of red dye in the loop and even if you go to change it to other colors, it will still have hints of red/pink in them. 

[Blai5e]

14 hours ago, RONOTHAN## said:

Water temp sensors, on the other hand, are next to useless. The only thing they're useful for is diagnosing if your blocks aren't mounted properly or if you just don't have enough rad capacity for your system. That is it. Even then, you can usually figure it out with just your components temp sensors, the temps that actually matter. The only way I'd add one to my loop is if I got it for free, and even then its 50/50 whether or not I'd even bother with the effort to add it.

I beg to differ regarding employing temperature sensor... I installed a Bitspower 10kΩ sensor stop fitting and use the liquid temperature as the source reference for my fan curve (I use a Bitspower T-block rotary fitting to plumb them into the loop to minimize extra resistance). I have this setup in both of my rigs and this method has served me well for years.

 

 

[RONOTHAN##]

1 minute ago, Blai5e said:

I beg to differ regarding employing temperature sensor... I installed a Bitspower 10kΩ sensor stop fitting and use the liquid temperature as the source reference for my fan curve (I use a Bitspower T-block rotary fitting to plumb them into the loop to minimize extra resistance). I have this setup in both of my rigs and this method has served me well for years.

 

 

Or you could just use the component temperature sensors and have it respond to whatever component is hotter. Good for you using that instead, but there are free ways to do it and get what you want. 

 

Or you can just overspec your radiators and have the fans never ramp.

[kazumi_mikuzi_x]

On 4/18/2022 at 8:54 PM, RONOTHAN## said:

Or you could just use the component temperature sensors and have it respond to whatever component is hotter. Good for you using that instead, but there are free ways to do it and get what you want. 

 

Or you can just overspec your radiators and have the fans never ramp.

Would it make much difference or work at all if I had both pipes coming off the same side of my gpu block? So instead of having one front and one back, I have both on the back. I'm trying to see what I can do to reduce the amount of tubing length in the loop to maximise my flow rate. While it flows nicely I'd rather be able to max out my cooling as I'm debating going gpu first now 

[DEADPOOLSMOM]

On 4/17/2022 at 10:44 PM, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

So I've recently built a custom loop, in which I'm cooling my gpu then cpu with an EKWB kit from their configurator with a 360mm rad, amd ryzen edition block, zotac trinity 3080/3090 block and connected to either motherboard headers or the provided asus fan hub.

 

I'm wondering how I'd be able to control things like pump speed, but I'm also looking for any advice that long term custom loop enthusiasts have for anything extra to purchase or change. Currently I'm looking into right angle connectors and a water temp sensor as well as a drain valve to add on.

 

Main specs are as follows:

AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 

Zotac Trinity RTX 3090

Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3200MHz 

ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Extreme 

EK 360mm PE

3x EK Vardar fans

10/12mm soft tubing

Ek blood red coolant (I know this will need cleaning sooner)

ThermalTake Core V71* (standard case not pc edition) 

* Soon to be upgraded to a TT Tower 900 (unless someone can suggest a better case with built-in res support)

 

I'll add an image when I'm nextvat my pc due to me writing this at almost 5am lol

Get an aquacomputer octo/quadro and use their aquasuite software

[RONOTHAN##]

2 hours ago, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

Would it make much difference or work at all if I had both pipes coming off the same side of my gpu block? So instead of having one front and one back, I have both on the back.

That doesn't make a difference. What makes a difference is making sure you have one coming in on the left and one leaving on the right (or vice versa depending on the block). As long as you have one going in the inlet side of the block (usually left) and one going out the outlet side (usually right) then you're good, having it come out the front or the back doesn't make a difference.

 

2 hours ago, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

I'm trying to see what I can do to reduce the amount of tubing length in the loop to maximise my flow rate.

Unless you're using 4+ feet of unnecessary tubing, the differences in flow rate will be pretty negligible. I would prioritize ease of maintenance and looks over making sure the tubes are as short as possible, the performance differences will be very minimal. 

 

2 hours ago, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

While it flows nicely I'd rather be able to max out my cooling as I'm debating going gpu first now 

The difference in temps between GPU first and GPU last will maybe be a degree if you're lucky. In a computer where the temperature deltas are so relatively low loop order just doesn't make a difference. Just prioritize ease of maintenance and looks, and if the GPU happens to be first when doing that then put the GPU first.

[kazumi_mikuzi_x]

On 4/20/2022 at 5:30 PM, RONOTHAN## said:

That doesn't make a difference. What makes a difference is making sure you have one coming in on the left and one leaving on the right (or vice versa depending on the block). As long as you have one going in the inlet side of the block (usually left) and one going out the outlet side (usually right) then you're good, having it come out the front or the back doesn't make a difference.

 

Unless you're using 4+ feet of unnecessary tubing, the differences in flow rate will be pretty negligible. I would prioritize ease of maintenance and looks over making sure the tubes are as short as possible, the performance differences will be very minimal. 

 

The difference in temps between GPU first and GPU last will maybe be a degree if you're lucky. In a computer where the temperature deltas are so relatively low loop order just doesn't make a difference. Just prioritize ease of maintenance and looks, and if the GPU happens to be first when doing that then put the GPU first.

I've ended up for that reason, ease of maintenance just to take off the GPU blocks, I'm looking for a better card or at least a new 3090 as I get random hard stutters. It happens both air and liquid cooled, many paste and pad swaps so I have no clue. I'm just ready to cut my losses with the Trinity and get a new one. It works most of the time but I can be playing something like Subnautica for example at 100ish fps with a youtube vid on, sometimes I get 1080p, with no stutters other times it's a slideshow and I know it's not my network, the video is fully loaded so the card is being weird. Did it before my first repaste, worked fine after and it keeps being weird. Is that a Zotac thing or most 3090's? Either way I probably need a new one.

[RONOTHAN##]

1 hour ago, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

I've ended up for that reason, ease of maintenance just to take off the GPU blocks, I'm looking for a better card or at least a new 3090 as I get random hard stutters. It happens both air and liquid cooled, many paste and pad swaps so I have no clue. I'm just ready to cut my losses with the Trinity and get a new one. It works most of the time but I can be playing something like Subnautica for example at 100ish fps with a youtube vid on, sometimes I get 1080p, with no stutters other times it's a slideshow and I know it's not my network, the video is fully loaded so the card is being weird. Did it before my first repaste, worked fine after and it keeps being weird. Is that a Zotac thing or most 3090's? Either way I probably need a new one.

One thing to look at is the frequency the card is running at. I've seen it before where the card just won't boost, even in game, and you end up with weird stutters. It happens with my 3080 in Minecraft, where I actually get better and more consistent FPS with shaders on than shaders off because the card actually boosts up to 2GHz instead of trying to run at 200-300MHz (idle). It's worth looking at, IIRC Subnautica is a pretty easy game to run so it very might just not boost and still get decent frame rates, but the frame times will be a bit bad. It's not a Zotac thing or with 3090s, you shouldn't need a new one. This is a software issue of some sort. 

[kazumi_mikuzi_x]

13 hours ago, RONOTHAN## said:

One thing to look at is the frequency the card is running at. I've seen it before where the card just won't boost, even in game, and you end up with weird stutters. It happens with my 3080 in Minecraft, where I actually get better and more consistent FPS with shaders on than shaders off because the card actually boosts up to 2GHz instead of trying to run at 200-300MHz (idle). It's worth looking at, IIRC Subnautica is a pretty easy game to run so it very might just not boost and still get decent frame rates, but the frame times will be a bit bad. It's not a Zotac thing or with 3090s, you shouldn't need a new one. This is a software issue of some sort. 

It's a brand new Windows install which is what's confusing me. Drivers up to date, MSI Aferburner on, I even got Firestorm in. It's been like it on both Win10 and now Win11 so I'm running out of ideas; it's inconsistent with boosts so I'm ready to give up on it at this point

[thrasher_565]

tips i learned over the years for a first build would be use clear tubing so you can see if bubbles if they are trapped.

flow indicator is help full but if set up wrong can cause problem.

diys can start clogging or hard to get out and clean

use all the same id fittings and tubing (dont use ones with allen key)

use a d5 pump imo a good one should last 10+ years

use a funnel when filling if posable if not use a squeezes bottle 

 

 

 

[kazumi_mikuzi_x]

4 hours ago, thrasher_565 said:

tips i learned over the years for a first build would be use clear tubing so you can see if bubbles if they are trapped.

flow indicator is help full but if set up wrong can cause problem.

diys can start clogging or hard to get out and clean

use all the same id fittings and tubing (dont use ones with allen key)

use a d5 pump imo a good one should last 10+ years

use a funnel when filling if posable if not use a squeezes bottle 

 

 

 

i went clear tubing because i was paranoid of having a tubing failure, with a red dye to help myself see what was happening and where to make inspections easier but i'll probably go clear coolant when i clean out and redo the loop. is there much difference in temp in splitting the coolant between 2 runs one for cpu and one for gpu or is it just easier for one loop overall?

[thrasher_565]

1 hour ago, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

i went clear tubing because i was paranoid of having a tubing failure, with a red dye to help myself see what was happening and where to make inspections easier but i'll probably go clear coolant when i clean out and redo the loop. is there much difference in temp in splitting the coolant between 2 runs one for cpu and one for gpu or is it just easier for one loop overall?

well normally the gpu will be hotter so having a loop for the cpu and gpu will keep w/e is cooler well cooler but its over kill for the cost for say $300 to $500 ish dollars more.. but looks cool...

 

but just depends if the oc is limited by the temp if not it might not make much difference because you could just spend the pump moeny on extra rads anyway...and expand one single loop to cool more...

 

other thing i can think of are easer to change just the gpu or cpu.

 

single loop with 2 pumps for redundancy

 

people use to go all out on there build as wc was cheaper then then it is now and alot more people sli or even quad sli back in the day not that a single gpu can pull somthing like 600w... something like a complete system puled back then.

Edited April 29, 2022 by thrasher_565

[kazumi_mikuzi_x]

53 minutes ago, thrasher_565 said:

well normally the gpu will be hotter so having a loop for the cpu and gpu will keep w/e is cooler well cooler but its over kill for the cost for say $300 to $500 ish dollars more.. but looks cool...

 

but just depends if the oc is limited by the temp if not it might not make much difference because you could just spend the pump moeny on extra rads anyway...and expand one single loop to cool more...

 

other thing i can think of are easer to change just the gpu or cpu.

 

single loop with 2 pumps for redundancy

 

people use to go all out on there build as wc was cheaper then then it is now and alot more people sli or even quad sli back in the day not that a single gpu can pull somthing like 600w... something like a complete system puled back then.

that's fair enough, i'm just trying to soak up all the information i can atm. i'm currently on subnautica atm with  around 900-1000mhz on my gpu clock which seems low. i have oc'd my cpu to 4.6ghz all core which could be a factor but i've had these issues since i build the rig. it says 133fps but that's the game not doing anything and the video paused. if i resume both it goes back to stuttering. i'll see if i can find a comparible 850W plat or titanium psu and see if that helps my issue but i am feeling it is just the card

[thrasher_565]

19 minutes ago, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

that's fair enough, i'm just trying to soak up all the information i can atm. i'm currently on subnautica atm with  around 900-1000mhz on my gpu clock which seems low. i have oc'd my cpu to 4.6ghz all core which could be a factor but i've had these issues since i build the rig. it says 133fps but that's the game not doing anything and the video paused. if i resume both it goes back to stuttering. i'll see if i can find a comparible 850W plat or titanium psu and see if that helps my issue but i am feeling it is just the card

ya i dont no much about oc or trouble shooting things like that . 196w at 99% for a oced 3090 seem low... but what do i no haha

 

well my dad went all out on a gtx 780 asus  striks ($450 gpu at the time...) and had ram problems. had to limit the gpu to 1.5 gb ram to run serten games instead of the 2gb. dont no why he didn't rma the card...

 

could posably that the card is so new that some times old games likes older gpus...

Edited April 29, 2022 by thrasher_565

[fonzz1e]

could be vram temps too

[kazumi_mikuzi_x]

On 4/29/2022 at 2:08 AM, fonzz1e said:

could be vram temps too

Possibly,  but I'm probably going to try selling this card fairly cheap due to my issues with it and get a newer one with better cooling. I have been debating the preblockdd ekwb 3090 which would look really nice I think in my loop

[kazumi_mikuzi_x]

While the thread is open , I was wondering if anyone had any advice for attaching the fans to the rad. I struggle getting them on top of it under the case filter to pull air into cool it quite a bit and wondered if anyone had any pro tips.

[fonzz1e]

6 hours ago, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

While the thread is open , I was wondering if anyone had any advice for attaching the fans to the rad. I struggle getting them on top of it under the case filter to pull air into cool it quite a bit and wondered if anyone had any pro tips.

make sure your screws just the right length, don't puncture yer rads

power off the pc, lay the pc on it's side

quite ez

[kazumi_mikuzi_x]

6 hours ago, fonzz1e said:

make sure your screws just the right length, don't puncture yer rads

power off the pc, lay the pc on it's side

quite ez

Ah, I see. When I last built everything else was in but the rad and fans and I didn't think to put it on the side lmao. Spent ages with it stood up making me suffer definitely will do that next build though 

[kazumi_mikuzi_x]

So it's Idek how far in and I've realised I forgot to order the adapter for my d5 gombo. But nothing to fear when you have cable ties! Remember to keep your tactical cable ties handy at all times lads, you'll never know when you'll need them

[thrasher_565]

7 hours ago, kazumi_mikuzi_x said:

So it's Idek how far in and I've realised I forgot to order the adapter for my d5 gombo. But nothing to fear when you have cable ties! Remember to keep your tactical cable ties handy at all times lads, you'll never know when you'll need them

i think i got shafted on my 900 i didn't get the gromit cover...